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Freestanding Deck Build

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Thread replies: 18
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I plan to build a new back deck soon, as the old one was starting to rot after 25 years, and was in the way of rim joist and sill repairs on the house. I want this next deck to be free standing, approximately 2' from the house, to avoid future water problems.

I'm just wondering if my plan sounds sturdy enough. I wanted a simple design, with minimal posts. The deck will be ~15' square, and about 3' off the ground. I want to use 6x6's, one on each corner, post in concrete footings. Rim joists on all sides will be 2x12's, doubled up, and 2x12 joists on 16" centers. Perhaps with the center joist also doubled up for mid span support for the decking boards. Does this sound like it should be stable enough, and not too bouncy? Or should I also use a center post for extra strength? I really like the idea of just having a post on each corner though, long enough to be the corners for the railing. Fasteners will probably be 1/2" carriage bolts, 4 on each rim joist/each post.
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2x12 joists are overbuilt as fuck.
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>>1217216
Question... what are you putting on the deck? How many people? Hot tub etc...
Really, that is way overbuilt.like >>1217217
says.
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>>1217217
Well, 2x10's might work, but for a 15' span, it seems like 2x10's would be a bit on the bouncy side. I'll pay up a bit for 2x12's if it means a more stable deck. Plus, overbuilt is my thing...
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>>1217219
Just standard deck things, furniture, a grill, fire pit.

What would you suggest then, 2x10's? It just seems to me that 2x10's would be bouncy on such a long span, like I said before.
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>>1217225
Oh, and probably never more than 6-8 people, tops.
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break up the span with a 6x6 beam or whatever into 7->8' sections with the joists overlapping. then use 2x6's. you are literally holding no weight with 6-8 people even for 2x12s and it won't flop as such.
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>>1217240
Hmm, yeah, I guess maybe I could use a doubled up 2x10 in the center across the width, then use 2x8 joists, at only 7-8' spans. I wouldn't go any smaller than 2x8 and 2x10, even if it is overkill. I want the deck to be solid, and look the part.
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>>1217217
Not really. 2x12s are the way to go for a 15 feet span. It will still be a little bouncy, but not bad unless you have two people walking together with the footfalls in time.

>>1217216
I used big bolts for my porch and porch roof. The best advice I can give is to use TWO oversized washers on each side. You can torque down better if you are using pine and not hardwoods without the bolt/nuts squeezing into the wood. Using two of them prevents them from cupping.

Make sure your wood posts are not actually "in" the concrete. Use the metal things you see in the pic you posted. As for the center support. You can double up the 2x12 running through there. Just bolt two boards together (sistering). I had to go back and do that with mine. I think I spent almost as much money on fasteners as on lumber and roofing.
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>>1217268
Yeah, I've run into fastener expenses before... shit is deceptively expensive.
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>>1217216

simpson ties nigga
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>>1217268
>Make sure your wood posts are not actually "in" the concrete. Use the metal things you see in the pic you posted.

Not OP but why is that? I thought the metal feet were quicker, but posts in the concrete were stronger?
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>>1217923
Well, if you ever have to replace the posts due to rot etc, it's easier to do so when you use these steel post mounts.... But desu, it's been common practice all over the USA at least for decades to embed treated wood posts in concrete. There's nothing wrong with it, although you are well advised to make a provision that the concrete doesn't cause water to 'pool' against the post..... Either by extending the concrete above grade and beveling the top, or by keeping it below grade.

I can post code references if desired.

Consider here that the main purpose of these concrete footings is simply to act as a pad and spread out the downward pressure that the deck is applying to the posts onto a larger area on the soil than the post would without a large "foot".... This helps to reduce settling.
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Also, I have found this prescriptive deck code book to be really helpful for understanding some safe practices...... It's USA based, but the same ideas apply everywhere, and the illustrations are fairly comprehensive.

http://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62012-DeckGuide-1405.pdf
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>>1217217
if he can afford the additional cost and dicking around with it, why not? It's not a government contract, if it's supposed to last, might as well make sure it will.
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>>1217216
you're going to need some support in the middle.

if you really dont want anything in the middle, i would put 3 posts across two sides, put double stacked 2x12 sitting ON TOP of the posts, then LVLs from one side to the other, again, sitting on top of the 2x12s. you want to avoid having anything hung off the side of the posts since that relies on the fasteners sheer rating.
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Hey /diy/, I recently bought a place with a shed. It's older and every single stick in this thing is a 2x4 on 24" centers... I've built decks stronger than this shed. Anyway, there's a storage loft above and it's noticeably sagging. When I loaded it I shoved all the boxes in from the ladder and never put my weight on it. Now that I see it sagging I'm worried about going up there to get my shit. How can I calculate the max load? It's supported by eight 2x4s on 24" centers with a 12 foot span. All the online calculators just tell me to use heavier wood.
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>>1217923

FYI, for fences the "traditional" way, and I learned this the hard way, is to auger out a hole, fill it a bit with gravel, put your post, and then surround it with gravel.

Wood soaked in water won't rot -- it's wood that is moist that will rot. The gravel drains away water, but unlike concrete, won't be exposing the post to a ton of water at the start.

I agree for deck or pergola, the metal brackets are smarter; the metal won't rot in the concrete like the wood might.
Thread posts: 18
Thread images: 1


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