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UK Electricians

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Thread replies: 9
Thread images: 3

File: 2_way_switch.jpg (26KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
2_way_switch.jpg
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I've currently got a light and a switch, simple.

I want to turn that one light into two lights (I've got all the fixtures) and put in a double switch.
I also want to move the switch a fair distance (I also have cabling to run)

I was thinking, use a 3 pole terminal to remove the first switch and run cabling to where I want the new switch.
I would now have 1 live feed coming into a double switch.
1 switch wires to the first light, the second to the the second.

If this makes sense, please will someone confirm my logic - also if you could do me a circuit diagram that would be great!

Thanks!
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>>1215792
You would still need a 3rd wire minimum to go to another light. 2 wires can't switch 2 lights.

Although I may be misreading your post. I'll draw a little thing, hold up
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File: Screenshot_20170725-111313.png (141KB, 1080x1920px) Image search: [Google]
Screenshot_20170725-111313.png
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>>1215811
What I assume you have.
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File: Screenshot_20170725-111439.png (223KB, 1080x1920px) Image search: [Google]
Screenshot_20170725-111439.png
223KB, 1080x1920px
>>1215814
What you'll need. You have 1 hot in that can be split, but you need 2 separate outs to go to 2 lights. This means 1 new wire, which is pointless, so 2 new wires.
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>>1215816
Also I don't have lights in my images, so I used penguins.
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>>1215817
I'll be going to a switch socket, not 2 separate ones.
So I would have have 1 (L/N/E) into the double switch. From that, I'd then go out to two different fixtures?
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>>1215854
I have no clue what you're even saying. Your OP said a double switch, 2 lights.

All you need to any switch is Line. Line then goes to how ever many lights you want on one switch, as long as it doesn't exceed your breaker or switch amp rating. From the light, Neutral goes back to the breaker box.
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>>1215792
ok hello op

typically you will have one of two situations, a light controlled by only one switch which will require a single cable, 1 x twin and earth (t&e). if its old the line will be red and the switched live will be black. otherwise brown and blue respectively. the black/blue should be marked with a red/brown stripe somehow ideally.
if the light is controlled by 2 different switches at different positions there will either be 1 3 core & earth (red,yellow,blue or brown,grey,black) or 1 3 core & earth and 1 T&E.
If the light is controlled by more than 2 positions the switch may contain 2 3 core & earth cables.

this is important because each of these 3 scenarios requires a different switch, either a 1 way (a two way or intermediate will do thought), a 2 way (but an intermediate will work) or an intermediate or crossover.
so keep that in mind.

now, if you want to extend wires from their positions you cannot leave cables buried in the wall willy nilly, cables must be in safe zones created by corners and accessories. if you fit a blanking plate you can extend the cable horizontally or vertically.
if you are adding to a circuit you will ideally need to make sure any cables buried less than 50mm unprotected suitably (e.g. steel conduit) are RCD protected.

at a minimum you will need to add an extra core to the drop. you can borrow the line from the existing switch without any trouble but you will need to find a neutral at the light, you probably won't have a neutral at the switch to use and its important you take it from the same circuit as the live from the switch.

lighting in the uk is made complicated because of the number or methods used its easy to catch out the unwary.

your breaker should be 5A fuse or 6A breaker, 1.5mmsq used to be standard but 1mmsq should handle anything you throw at it even accounting for the installation method which you should be aware of, check out the relevant regulations regarding derating factors.
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>>1215816
How do you calculate parallel penguins? I only know series.
Thread posts: 9
Thread images: 3


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