OIL / ENAMEL / ALKYD / RUSTOLEUM

>>1211171
mop it on
the canned spray can be applied with a wet sponge or old toupe

>>1211171
using alkyd red lead on metal for the first time, painted a second and third coat of primer and a top coat over that on the same day, as soon as they were touch dry.
turns out that's WAY too soon, i could still put a thumbprint into it three years later.

>>1211188
Why so many coats of primer?

>>1211200
>Why so many coats of primer?

much of /diy/ does not seem to understand the purpose of primer. "hey, if one coat of primer is considered necessary, why not 5 coats of primer so it will be 5x better!"

>>1211202
Sometimes I don't even use one coat.
If I can get away with 50/50 Primer/Topcoat, I do it.

>>1211171
>Tell me about this class of paint.
It's not just paint, it's a paint+primer combo. It will not work otherwise. Be sure to use a primer that chemically matches the paint. Manufacturers don't make this easy. Zinssler is the primer brand brand that matches Rustoleum for example.

>Is it still the best metal paint for home use
yes

>Does it actually ever dry or does it remain soft and rubbery forever?
It cures in reaction to oxygen. Too thick, no oxygen, no cure. Use thin coats, at least 24 hours between coats.

>Bristle brush, roller, or spray gun as method of application?
Depends on the viscosity of the pain and the quality of finish you want. I don't suggest sprayer unless you want to use a fuckton of mineral spirits cleaning it.

>>1211202
Yes, much of DIY is nostril fucking stupid.

The purpose of primer is to ensure adhesion of the paint to the surface. Only one coat is ever necessary (with rare exceptions for wood that soaks up too much of it)

>>1211682
Lots of stages are called Primer by different people.
Pretty stupid to use a word that should be specific, interchangeably if you ask me.

Primer, Filler Primer, Color Primer, Undercoat, Primer Sealer... any other Priners I'm missing?

>>1211680
>Depends on the viscosity of the pain

That's since angsty shit right there Anon.

>I changed the color of the basement so I'd know that I'm alive, Mom!

>>1211680
Do Rustoleum "Direct-to-rust" and similar paints really need primer?

Which method gives the best (smoothest?) finish?

>>1211790
Smoothest finish on a less than perfect surface is a hammer finish paint - at least, it'll cover up crappy sanding or rust pitting with no real work.

Otherwise, and using car paint, sand to 180 grit, epoxy prime it, apply a medium build primer-surfacer, block it down with 240 grit and then 400 grit, apply 2-4 coats of your base colour and 2-3 coats of high solids clear followed by one last heavy flow coat of clear. Let it cure for a few days if you can't bake it/leave it in the sun in summer and compound with a buff. If you hit it with 1200 grit before the buff you can remove the orange peel effect.

>>1211819
What tool do I apply the paint with?

What is car paint? Is the $8 a quart Rustoleum ok?

>>1211853
Spraygun and air compressor and decent PPE as 2 pack paint contains isocyanates which you don't really want to be breathing in.

Car paint refers to automotive 2 pack (a paint plus hardener) finish used to paint cars in both metallic and solid colours. This paint sets by a chemical reaction, and it's only good to apply for a few hours at most after mixing before it sets into a hard lump. It is highly solvent and UV resistant, and it will cost you around $50-$150 or more a litre depending on brand and colour. It will also last for 15 - 20 years or more of direct sun exposure.

If you don't have a spraygun and compressor handy, check out a marine/boating supply place, they will usually have a brushable 2 pack paint at around $80/litre, or brushable marine enamel at about $40/litre. This should give you 10 years or more of sun exposure.

As for $8/silly unit Rustoleum, here (Australia) Rustoleum paints are priced just a little below the market leader consumer products (Wattyl Killrust/Dulux Metalshield) which means you should be able to get 2-4 years out of it before it starts getting chalky from UV breakdown (again, that's Australian levels of UV). As a comparison, the cheap $3-4 spray cans of budget enamel will last for around 3-4 months before they start getting chalky from UV damage.

See The Gunman on Youtube for some good spray painting advice.

Top tier paint for hand planes and shovels, pretty shit for implements though, I used to use it on my FEL and backblade, it works better then anything else but I still have to spray it every 2 weeks or so, Ive just given up painting implements. Much easier to grind off any rust as it appears.

>>1211790
Direct to rust paints don't need primer, no. I can't say how good they are though, I haven't used them.

The smoothest finish is always with a sprayer. The best alternative to that is a fine-bristled brush designed for oil paints, with light sanding between multiple coats.

>>1211775
A good point, but IMO none of those are primers. They are basecoats, fillers, sealers, etc. Just leave the word "primer" off of them and nothing about them changes.

Of course, manufacturers are also nostril-fucking stupid, and don't name their products properly, so I blame them.

Oil paints keep getting worse and worse every time EU regulations on VOC are made stricter. (2009, 2013, 2017).
White paint starts yellowing the second the surface hardens unless it's in constant bright sunlight.

Anyone know if these regulations apply to coatings intended for Marine use?
A 5L mini-barrel of Jotun brand 1k enamel costs less than €50 and can be mixed to the RAL system colors.