Best material for 3d printed bike part

>>1209475

Is the part under any load? Is the part going to see any physical wear? Is the part supposed to wear instead of wearing on whatever it's holding? Will it be exposed to corrosive elements?

Give us some details here.

Also, it doesn't seem like this part is going to be printed. SLS is somewhat expensive versus just having a solid piece milled. If you're going to go that route why not mill it out of 304 SS or something similar?

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>>1209477
It will be under load when shifting. Most of the load will be down along the z axis. The direction is in green.

No physical wear is to be expected since it isn't supposed to move. It is merely a mounting point to attach a moving piece to the bike frame. The piece is circled in blue.

No corrosive elements are expected.

Someone said that having the piece milled would cost a lot and I would probably be better off having it printed.

>>1209475
the strongest material you can print is nylon.
nylon will take any abuse.

but if you don't want to print nylon (because it's nasty stuff) just use abs.

>>1209546
I'm 99% certain you're wrong. I tried to get something printed out of metal over a year ago and it seemed plausible.

>>1209548
>dmls

no, this person has to print a support that was originally made out of plastic.
the toughest plastic is nylon

>>1209546
Nope.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_printing_processes#Processes

>>1209574
>originally made out of Plastic
metal*

anyway, you don't synter a support part, that's just a waste of money

>>1209475
You might print it in polyethylene and lost pattern cast it in aluminum.

>>1209475
That wont last long, if an aluminum part broke the plastic part will have no chance at all, 3D printed stuff isn't very strong.
I would just make the part out of steel, that part could be made out of steel in under and hour and it would never give you an issue ever again.

>>1209577
If you're gonna lost wax it, may as well use wax filament wire
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qVk0nGp_SM
All of these options are all more expensive than just simply making the part by hand out of steel though.

OP here, thanks for the help. I think I'll just go with what Mrcrummy suggested instead 3d printing.

>>1209579
I was worried about the part breaking again too even though I tweaked the design a bit. I'll have a machine shops look at it so they can give me a quote. I'll probably have them make it out of stainless steel so I don't have to worry about finishing it or the piece getting all rusty.

>>1209475
>3d printed
>rivets
>bike
>cast aluminum
>something stronger
>3d printed

>>1209579
>>1209580
Why so tripcunt tripcunt?

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>>1209689
He's a furfag piece of shit from /o/ who's absolutely retarded, but still feels the need to interject his dumbass opinions on every fucking topic under the sun. Here's a nice webm of him spinning out at 5 mph and, unfortunately, coming to a stop just before the edge of a cliff.

>>1209477
Nylon SLS is typically cheap from places like shapeways and sculpteo. Even simple parts gave my quotes in the hundreds to have milled.

That said, metal is much stronger than plastic. No two ways about it really.

>>1209574
SLS nylon on paper has properties similar to weak ABS, and that assumes best case. FDM nylon is stronger in the same axis as the layers but against them (pulling them apart) it's pretty weak. 3D printed sounds like a bad idea. For a one off a milled part seems like a good choice even if it costs a lot.

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>>1209475
Find some T-bar off-cuts. A few minutes on the drill press and dremel and you'll get close enough.

>>1210028
maybe you should go back to /o/ and stew there, nigga's tripping unduly but hes not wrong in his posts

>>1209475
i know this is /diy/ but honestly you may as well just buy the part. it's such a simple part that its not worth making your own of. alternatively, you could use those c-shaped clamps that are used to hold bike accessories. they come in metal and are super cheap, its basically a curved piece of metal and the ends of it are stamped for rigidity by corrugation. get the bolts and some wingnuts and you're g2g

>>1210037

Sorry, when I was referring to SLS is was referring to metal sintering.

>>1209546
>>1209574
>>1209576
Dude, you are HORRIBLY misinformed. Metal printing is possible and uses sintered supports so the material doesn't deform while you print. You use lasers to melt the metal, generally. You really need to catch up on additive manufacturing technology.

>>1212038
>Metal printing is possible

My understanding is that it's not affordable yet, not on the hobbyist level, like the desktop models that use plastic.

Technology. Imagine the toys your grandkids will take for granted. Our grandparents thought color TV was wonderful

>>1210028
>piece of shit from /o/
why do tripfags from /o/ keep ruining the boards i want to lurk?

>>1209475
you've got two options anon
>Nylon SLS ~$20
will be less strong than the original,
but you can just make the part thicker and use a longer screw to mount the derailleur
>DMLS (titanium, steel, aluminium) ~$200
costly but stronger than the original part

Personally i'd go with a nylon part first and only do metal should it break again
you really want to reinforce the model, wherever it broke,
might also want to run a quick fem structural analysis to find weak points