raising part of condo

Very short stud walls of 75x35mm framing pine at 500 centres for the big bit in the middle, 16mm melamine faced board for the drawer areas, top with 19mm thick sheet flooring (called yellowtongue here). I'm also assuming you'd be attaching the free ends to a wall with a ledger or similar.

>>1205916
thanks. left wall is concrete, and i want to avoid being miserable and trying to drill and attach anything to that wall. just construction wood supports. i'm looking at how decks and patios are built now so i think i'll go that route?

>>1206207
If you're not attaching it, just add an extra stud wall on the edge(s) to provide the necessary support.

I'd steer away from trying to do it strictly deck style, as that means bearers, which means, at a guess, something like 140x45 for an 1870 span, which may be a more expensive way to go than just simple framing timber and short stud frames - generally nothing beats a load path straight to the ground for cheapness. (If it was me building that, I'd use downgrade studs that I can pick up for $2/2400mm).

Figure out what you want to use as a floor material first, see what its support requirements are, and work down from there. (ie if the sheet width is 1000, and it needs supporting at 500 centres, then you know where the supporting frames need to go.)

You may also need to support it over the drawers with a bit of 70x35 on edge depending on what/how the drawers are built.

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is this overkill?

>>1206777
Yes. That's so much overkill, you made allowance for the dead coming back as zombies and having to kill 'em all again, and then chopping the bodies up to fit them in the furnace.

Delete all the joists from that and space the stud walls as per requirements of your flooring sheet. You don't need the one at the end where it backs onto the cabinets, a well enough built cabinet (16mm melamine faced board) will take the weight.

So, for that 1870mm measurement, that would be three sheets of 900 wide yellowtongue (a bit of waste there) supported by stud walls at 0, 450, 900, 1350, 1800, and at 1870 you've got the drawer carcass and the last 450mm. If you are worried about deflection at the drawer carcass face, add a 75x35mm piece across the inside of the top of the drawer carcass; you could get away with smaller (maybe 50x35) if you used a higher stress grade timber than just pine.