Best wood finish

Easiest to get - mineral oil/paraffin/baby oil/horse laxative (has the benefit if you use baby oil you can say it's made with real babies, or if you buy it as horse laxative you get it in 5 litre containers)
Most prestigious - tung oil (can be a slow finish to apply, and maybe not recommended for people with nut allergies)
Traditional - 1/3 walnut oil to 2/3 beeswax
Coconut - Yes, see also recipes with beeswax
Olive - risk of it going rancid
No, just no - linseed

Linseed polymerizes. Turns into something else. Great for furniture, shit for anything else. What the other guy said.
Actually it's OKAY for furniture. It's not even a good one really at all.
>>1202574
Coconut goes too in my experience

can I use paraffin instead of beeswax

If I give a shit about looks then ill use a stain, for anything else linseed or beeswax. Dont overthink it, it all works.

>>1202568

who told you to put olive oil on something?

For something like a tool handle that you handle often, mineral oil. Mineral oil also for cutting boards and anything that must be food safe. You can do bees wax over it if you want.

For furniture you want a polyurethane or varnish or lacquer for water resistance, durability, shiny. Or shellac if it isn't going to be around water.

>>1202574
Cheap olive oil doesn't go rancid anymore because its no longer made from Olives.

>>1202568
You want an oil that polymerize.
Walnut, linseed, tung.
Coconut and olive doesn't polymerize.
Finish your block up to 240 sandpaper. Put oil in a rag and apply by rubbing everywhere for a few minutes. Then with a clean rag rub again. Do this three times.
My advice is to add pumice powder on your rag to have a real smooth finish.
You can also make a paste by mixing oil and pumice.

>>1202574
>No, just no - linseed

Why?

>>1202747
Modern linseed oils use cobalt as a drying agent, so you may prefer to skip it on anything with food contact. You usually have to hunt high and low to find a properly boiled linseed oil, not one simply labelled as boiled.

And if you want to fuck around with linseed oil, use tung oil instead, it's a far better finish.

>>1202581
Kind of, but it can tend to feel greasy, and it doesn't smell as nice as beeswax. It can be a good add in to beeswax, but if you're doing that much fucking around, get some carnauba wax instead.

>>1202581
If you do, make sure it's pure paraffin. Most hobby shops sell "paraffin" which is a blend of actual paraffin and other non-paraffin waxes.

>>1202797
Only boiled linseed oil uses cobalt. You can find pure linseed oil, but it's exceptionally expensive.

>OP
I've used beeswax, it's exceptionally good for this.

>>1202568
>>1202574
>>1202577
So, I actually came across a thread on this topic a few months ago. Plain linseed oil polymerizes on exposure to air, but heating it to 300 degrees for a few hours makes it go a lot faster, and adding chemical dryers that evaporate super quick works even better (but toxic).
Since it's a food oil (Flaxseed oil = linseed oil), it is food safe. It turns into a polymer, the isomers of the oil link into a plastic-y film. Different oils have different hardnesses, but it is a totally natural safe product as long as it doesn't have additives.
If I remember correctly, plain linseed oil takes about 2 months to set and polymerize. The thread I came across was some guy experimenting with using it on his boat, so he could spread on a layer and leave it alone for that long. Plain polymerized linseed oil is like 24-72 hours to cure. The chemical dryer stuff is like 4-6 hours. Even the chemical stuff is often used for food and toys because, the theory goes, once everything toxic has evaporated from it it's safe again. Personally I wouldn't, and I fuck around with pallet wood.
Walnut or Coconut oil work ok to moisturize the wood and keep it from drying out, but don't have a protective layer. Wax seals and is a protective layer, but wears off pretty quick and needs to be reapplied every few months of use.
The one that I want to try is soy oil, the cheapest shit on the shelf. It is an oil that polymerizes, but I can't find any info on how tough the film it produces is compared to linseed.

Other notes: I've seen someone make a nonstick cast iron pan by sanding it smooth with sandpaper and sanding blocks, and then baking on layers of flaxseed oil with a week in between layers to cure.

IF you want pure boiled linseed oil (no chemical dryers), search for linseed stand oil.

>>1203173
>but heating it to 300 degrees
how can you do that? I pretty sure it is beyond its boiling point
you'd need a special pressure cooker?

>>1203329
Heat it slowly in an oven. Start it cold, and turn the oven to its lowest setting, then bump it up 30 degrees or so per hour until you reach 300. It starts to polymerize at low temperatures, so the smoke point rises progressively. If I'm seasoning cast iron with linseed oil, I keep going to 550, where it forms a hard, black film. Going straight to 550 will smoke it off, but going gradually gives good buildup.

How should I treat teak wood? tung oil or one of those teak oils, because it is under sunlight 24/7

I don't know what the fuck Danish Oil is, but I found an old can of it in my dad's garage and it works a treat. Better than that other can's inch of solid polyurethane in any case.

>>1203369
>Danish Oil
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_oil
>Rags used for Danish oil have some potential risk of spontaneous combustion and starting fires from exothermic oxidation, so it is best to dry rags flat before disposing of them, or else soak them in water.

>>1203373
Same is true for boiled linseed oil

>>1203373
>>1203405
>Dad helping me oil some refinished wood floors in my house
>Finish up, have a paint bucket with water that I'm disposing rags in
>Notice him throw a rag in the trash
>Hey, put that in this bucket, it will catch fire
>No it won't, you moron. I've been doing shit like this for years
>Go to get the rags out
>Don't touch them, just leave them there
>Next day, trash can is missing, yucca tree and grass is scorched
>Dad says, I didn't know those were flammable
Arrogance and ignorance are a terrible combination.

It's not quite related to this thread, but since it involves wood ...
What router would you advise for a beginner hobbyist woodworker ? It has to be around 100 Yuroshekels max., preferably with a few bits, it's that's not asking too much.

I'd mostly use it to cut mortises/tenons or rebates.

>>1202568
>best

What sized wrench is best for a 12mm nut? 10mm? Would a 6mm do in a pinch?

In other words, use the right tool for the right job, and the right finish for the right project.

Polymerizing oil: Linseed, tung, etc. +easy, +natural texture, -durability, -water resistance

Varnish: A solvent with a solid resin. Spar varnish, polyurethane, etc. +durability, +water resistance, -natural texture -easy cleanup

Shellac: A natural product harvested from bugs. +gorgeous +easy +moisture (NOT WATER) resistance -durability -water resistance -shelf life

Laquer: See Varnish, but with different chemicals and solvents.

>>1203369
Danish oil is a varnish that's been thinned with mineral spirits so you can wipe it on instead of brushing.

>>1203373
>>1203431
w-well, at least I haven't got any e-emergency calls from my parents' house...

>>1202568
For food grade i use walnut.

For furniture i use truoil or linseed

>>1203580
If you're looking to get the most out of your Yuroshekels, have a look at axminster - I've found powertools are now mostly cheaper to ship from the UK than buy locally. And the difference is I can afford a blue Bosch from axminster for the same price as a green Bosch costs here.

Don't have a router myself - not yet - but you can probably get better kit for your shekels there.

I do a fair bit of oiling wood at work for various purposes (boat decks, refurbishing furniture, etc), and I've made some "furniture" for the house. I didn't know about the health issues with boiled linseed. I'll have to remember that for my chopping boards in the future.

Like >>1203625 says, it really depends what the purpose is and what your materials are.

What I use around the home, for everything I make, is 50% turps, 50% tung for the first two coats, then buffing with 90% tung and 10% turps, as an initial finish. I follow up yearly (or try to) with a light sand and 1:1:1 of turps, linseed and tung.

For old cedar, like window frames, I want to use a fucking marine varnish like Deks Olji because those splinters are brutal.

Rimu (I don't know the US equiv), I use linseed because it darkens with UV light and sanding back the edges and natural summer/winter growth creates a really nice texture.

Hardwood: tung oil. Sanding back hardwood is a pain so you don't want anything that gets gunky if it seeps in cracks and pools.

An old timer at work suggested 25% linseed, 45% tung, 10% vinegar and 20% turps. I've tried that ratio and it seems ok. He's senile and some level of alcoholic so there is probably some forgotten ingredient or differing ratio that is missing.

I like oil finishes over varnish or polyurethanes in most cases. The huge benefit of oil finishes is that they can be refinished at any time with little effort, unlike polyurethane which is essentially a sand back to bare timber effort, but the rule of thumb for building an oil finish is to apply oil "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and yearly from then on". Or just several coats of 50/50 tung oil/orange oil sanded over a few weeks to 1200 grit.

>>1202568
and you fuxing idiots wonder why you get cancer and neurological disorders

yes i have an idea lets gather up some off cuts and GLUE them together then use some TOXIC wood stains on it...... then lets let all our raw food sit on it.... hue hue hue i hope all you queers get colon cancer

>>1204017
I hope you live 200 years and watch all your loved ones die

File: really,,.jpg (76KB, 600x600px) Image search: [Google]

76KB, 600x600px

>>1204045
>watch all your loved ones die
implying he loves anyone...