Welders

>>1199422
Welders talk about miller and Lincoln because they deal with industrial size (there's also Hobart and esab). There's nothing wrong with the smaller brands. Kind of.
I'd stay away from harbor freight brands, but for just screwing around in your garage you'll be fine.
If you get a flux core model, just be sure you can upgrade to gas later.

>>1199422

I took a chance on one of the green eBay ones. One of the "Amico" things. Not too bad, actually. Can't speak for its longevity, since I don't use it that much and I've had it less than a year, but it works well enough, is dual-voltage, and is actual MIG instead of flux-only (though I've so far only used flux-core).

That being said, I question long-term parts availability. Hell, after I bought one of their plasma cutters, couldn't find consumables, and then found out they themselves couldn't point out any source for them...oh boy. I know the welder, at least, is compatible with the regular Lincoln tips.

That's kind of a serious issue, IMO. I'd expect that out of a $100-150 HF-tier welder and probably wouldn't care. Those are basically disposable. But from something you can't get for under $300, that's akin to buying a printer and then finding out it only takes one size of paper that nobody stocks.

>>1199422
Esab and Hobart get the job done too.

In my experience Miller is the bee's knees though, especially for TIG.

>>1199422
Depends on who you talk to, and where you post. You'll find plenty of forums full of guys saying 'you only cry once, get Miller it's the best' and on another equally reputable forum, Miller's considered a giant ripoff and folks'll tell you the Everlasts turn out to be just as good.

I don't know. I'm not a pro. I bought an Everlast. I'm happy with it.

>>1199422
Miller and Lincoln largely make machines for professional use. High productivity, fast/easy to make good welds, often lots of parameter control, manufacturer support and part availability. If you have the money to spend, they're typically the best to be had. Other brands aimed more at DIYers, farmers, etc. are typically cheaper while offering more basic features, less support, electronics built with less magic smoke, etc. If you already know how to weld, they can be perfectly serviceable, though low-end wirefeed machines tend to be touchy. It's just typically more difficult to produce the same quality of welds as on a nicer machine. When in doubt, check reviews. As with brand selection in general, which to get depends on your particular situation.

>>1199422
If you are a professional welder, go with the big brands. if you are a hobby welder, go with an everlast.

i have an everlast tig and its great

>>1199596
this is good advice.
That said... I know professional welders who are starting to buy Chinese and are pretty happy with it.

>>1199596
>>1199658
(Just bought an Everlast TIG. Waiting for it to arrive.)

>>1199422
Esab is considered good. Miller and Lincoln are your local brands I believe, they aren't that known over here.
The best of the best is kemppi. Unbeatable.

>>1200085
What to buy depends on location if want warranty service.

Many useful forums here including Chinese.

http://weldingweb.com/

>>1199596
>>1199660
I only have a little bit of stick experience, no tig experience

Im trying to decide between the two 200 amp everlast machines.
Is the pulse settings for Tig worth an extra $300 on the more expensive model?

>>1200365
>Is the pulse settings for Tig worth an extra $300 on the more expensive model?
it's probably something you won't appreciate the value of for a while as a new tig welder

>>1199429
I ended up getting one of those on sale - 80 amp Chicago Electric stick welder for $30 is great chance to start learning how to welder basic things.

I'm hoping to upgrade to a Lincoln or Miller 220v/225 amp welder, but unfortunately I'd need a electrician to run a 220v outlet to the garage. Think I could run a 110v/220v converter and not blow myself up?

>>1200771
>Think I could run a 110v/220v converter and not blow myself up?

I've no idea what you mean by "converter" but you need a suitable amp outlet and no mere voltage "converter" (I assume you mean transformer) will do because it doesn't give you more available amps. You can, and many people have, run long heavy duty extension cords from 30A 240V stove or dryer outlets and run their welders that way. The cords are useful in extending the range of your machine from your future 240V outlet so you don't lose the investment and you gain versatility.

Another option which may save you money is run a 50A outdoor outlet on the side of your house then plug into that. I've done that to my last rental and both houses I own, and that is always a plus. You can also run an air compressor off that outlet if desired.

I don't feel like typing the internet, so go to the Weldingweb forums where ALL your welding questions from now on should be posted. You'll thank me later. They are noob friendly and a goldmine of info. I have over 4000 posts there, mostly dealing with equipment.

/diy/ is a random catchall dump forum. Good for some things but real welding forums are what you want. This will never be one. Have fun!

>>1200771
>needing an electrician to run an outlet

It's pretty simple to do on a diy level.
30 amp double pole breaker, 2/10awg romex and a welding outlet rated for at least 30 amps with the appropriate fitting box should set you back maybe $50.
If you don't have pets, children or a particularly stupid life partner running around, you could just plug it all directly into your breaker box and run it to your work area as a temporary solution.

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Might as well ask here.
Anyone tried the Outlaw Leather hoods? My current hood is a piece of shit and I'm not sure if I should get an Outlaw or save a bit more and get an Optrel or the new Esab.

It would be for professional use.

>>1199422
Hobart is pretty good. they are owned by miller and are pretty solid machines they just don't have some of the fancier shit like auto set, infinite amperage control and digital displays.

>>1201834
if you're running new shit you might as well just say fuck it and go 50amp. cost wouldn't be that much more and it'll open up options for bigger machines in the future

>>1202621
Depends.
Do you want an auto darkening hood, or a passive? How much do you want to spend? How much do you want to overspend? Do you want to be a faggot with a special snowflake hood?

Odds are, if you really needed a hood for professional use, you wouldn't be asking this stupid question--because the Outlaw leather hoods are passive and offer absolutely no benifet over any other passive hood.
Some hoods have geometry and headgear that works better or worse with your head's shape (in your case, pinhead, on account of how stupid you must be) and is entirely subjective to each user.

https://www.amazon.com/Fibre-Metal-Honeywell-Piperliner-Welding-Helmet/dp/B004F7JFOG

That is a hood that for all intensive purposes will perform the same as any offering by Outlaw. However the Outlaw, being made of leather, will absorb moisture and deform or even rot depending on the conditions it is used in.
The pipeline helmet has guaranteed aftermarket parts for repair or upgrade, and will not rot or deform.

If you need to spend $200 to demonstrate to your coworkers (if you even land a job with your lack of knowledge) that you're a fedora tipping faggot, but the Outlaw. If you're a practically minded man seeking employment, you wouldn't be asking if gimmick leather hoods with entry level protection fitted into them is worth overspending on.

TL/DR: grow up, faggot.

>>1202639
True, but I was just stating the bare minimum to run those machines. A 50amp breaker would cost a forgettable amount of money more than a 30amp, but then he'd have to increase the wire gage, and that's when the cost jumps noticeably.
Still, super easy and a piss in the bucket compared to the cost of hiring an electrician to do it, but he did seem concerned with cost.

I do encourage anyone interested in adding a circuit to ask questions or Google it. This shit is pure DIY, anyone can pull it off.
Source: I am a trained electrician, and rip people off daily.

>>1202704
Jesus Christ, man. Why so mad

I'm just picky as fuck with headgears and I was wondering if anybody experienced any of them to comment. I'm open to both passive and auto but the smarter choice would be passive because we do a fuckton of MIG at my shop so replacing plates would be much less expensive.
Basically I just want something lightweight because my back is fucked and most hoods I've tried start being a little on the heavy side when wearing for days at a time and the outlaws seemed alright for that.

Also I work in custom fab. Asshole.

>>1202704
Also
>for all intensive purposes
>calls someone retarded
Pot meet kettle

>>1202712
Trolling is a art.

>>1202709
>Modern lightweight plastics replacing heavy leather in many different industries
>asks for advice on using a heavy leather welding hood because modern lightweight plastics are too heavy for his fragile spine

What are you trying to get at here, dude? If you want to buy your welding fedora, go for it. At best it'll be a somewhat interesting novelty you'll eventually just hang on your wall, at worst nobody will notice or care.
It's a slab of leather with basic bitch headgear and shades slapped onto it. Since you can't draw your own conclusions, it will be hot and heavy.
You can spend $50 for a hood made in modern materials and is lighter, or you can buy this decorative gimmick for $200 and try to convince people "I only overpaid for this hood because lightweight ones hurt my back, and this unwieldy sweaty leather bastard with Harbor Freight quality hardware is soooo much more comfortable."

Nobody will believe that shit. Just own your intentions. It's a unique way for you to draw attention to yourself. No shame there, I guess. Just don't play it off like you can't draw your own conclusions on if it will fill the role you need from it.
Your a big boy, quit pretending to be so pathetic.

>>1202911
>Since you can't draw your own conclusions,
>Just don't play it off like you can't draw your own conclusions
I can't try them on because none of the local welding supply stores have them so I'd have to order them which is why I'm asking other people, of course I can't draw my own conclusions on something I can't try myself, you fucking dumbass

>>1202709
I have a Jackson shadow fixed hood.
You swap in an auto dark module the same size of a standard shade. It takes 2 seconds to go from one or the other, and since it's a standard size, your replacement shields are the same cheap ones that you would with fixed shades
None of that bullshit custom sized shields for your auto dark helmet

>>1202916
I was thinking about doing that too. Of all the hoods I've tried yet the Jackson seemed to arguably be the best one.
How much is the auto dark lens? I actually don't think I'd need it since I got used to passive hoods but that would be something worth considering if I end up with precision TIG jobs and such.

Thank you for not being a needlessly hostile underage piece of shit.

>>1202911
You'd have a point if so many plastic hoods weren't xenomorph-tier gigantic and if the outlaw ones used a big ass piece of thick leather, but that's not the case in either

>>1202912
You may not be able to try it on, but with the evidence available, it's not a hard stretch to surmise what the hood will be like--hence putting on those big boy pants and drawing your own conclusions.
The information given on their website is minimum, with only frontal shots of the hoods. The cost is $200, which is about average for a decent hood. Considering the likely handmade and increased production times aspect of the leatherwork, it's expected they'll be cutting costs on the quality of shade and headgear.
In that case, find headgear you like from a different hood, and figure a way to rig it to the Outlaw if you're picky--you'd be tragically mistaken to believe a business is installing quality headgear and not advertising or charging for it.
Expect basic bitch visibility out of the shade. It's fairly standard practice for manufacturers to sell passive hoods with the standard black #10 shade. If you're accustomed to better, the website *does* give shade dimensions so you can search to see if any replacements will fit.

Try on a similarly shaped plastic hood and imagine it being marginally heavier, hotter and prone to absorbing moisture and getting even heavier.
What is so fucking hard about figuring this shit out?
>the answer is "Nothing, you just want to be given a good reason to buy the welding fedora."


>>1202938
The example I gave him of a modern plastic helmet was a pipeliner with a nearly identical profile as the Outlaws.
I'm sure the Outlaw is not heavy by any means, but if plastic is so cripplingly heavy for his back, any quality leather is going to crush his weak spine just the same if not moreso.

My point isn't to say there's anything wrong with the Outlaw hoods, but the guy is begging for validation. He wants to feel like his money is justified, which my opinion is that he'll be paying a premium on being a special snowflake.
I'm giving him answers, he just doesn't like how I'm delivering them. Fragile ego to match that weak back of his.

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>>1202967
Now, see, that's how you answer questions on a mongolian basket weaving imageboard. Took you a while to calm down but you finally did.

Why do you care this much what I use my money on? If wanting something that looks a bit different is screaming for validation and welding fedora then I guess it is.

Would I be able to generate enough heat with an arc welder in order to melt a couple of ounces of tungsten into a mold?

Using it to liquefy the tungsten to be clear, is it possible?

If not, why?

>>1203074
I don't think you understand what arc welding is. Either that, or I don't understand what you're saying.

You strike an arc between a base metal (what you are welding) and a feeder metal (what you are welding with). The arc melts the base AND feeder metals into a small pool of molten metal that mix together into a solid piece.
You may be able to get a carbon mold and arc off of it to fill it with various weld fillers, but I am not aware of a tungsten based feeder metal.

>>1203115
with stick you can get rods made of damn near any metal, MIG is a bit more limited but there are some small companies making all kinds of shit too

>>1203074

Well considering the consumable used to created the arc in tig IS tungsten and it is incredibly hard to make it melt, I would say not reliably, but possibly.

Tungsten has the highest melting point of all the metals on the periodic table. What the fuck would you even want to do this for?

>>1202921
>How much is the auto dark lens?

I bought mine a few years ago, but I paid like $150 from the local welding shop. I know they sell higher end ones too that are more expensive.

It blows away my harbor freight hood, and some $75 hobart auto hood I had.

>>1203074
>>1203127

It's doable. There are a load of technical problems surrounding oxidation, insulating it long enough for it to stay liquid, and, assuming you want to melt more than a few grams, raw power delivery, but they aren't insurmountable.

But I'm most curious as to what the fuck you're going to use for the mold you expect to hold your 6200°F+ tungsten.

>>1203146
Noice, thanks famalam

>>1203074
I never tried anything like it but maybe (big maybe) it would be doable by melting down a tungsten electrode directly by using a small one on DCEP TIG with the amperage cranked up to shit, a long ass stickout and a pretty intense gas flow to compensate and to reduce oxidation.

>>1203127
>>1203147
I am making something special first for myself.

After I get the technique down I may make tools for fun.

To prevent oxidation I am going to fill the area I have the mold in with argon, and the crucible will be tantalum carbide.

The mold is yet to be determined, though it will be carefully chosen.

Any suggestions on the time it should take to melt maybe three grams? I am going to be on a standard 15amp 110volt circuit, and I will purchase a welding unit which will be comparable with the limits of the power available.

Thank you for your replies!

>>1203187
*To be clear, I know tungsten is brittle and I would be alloying it for anything which needed strength.

>>1203147
>>1203187
you use sand as a mold

>>1203146
honestly if you're buying a new lens these days you'd be stupid to not go with the new Lincoln 4C. tried them out a few weeks ago and you can see far better which directly translates into helping you be a better welder

>>1203187
>I am going to be on a standard 15amp 110volt circuit
>Oh, he's retarded.

Thanks for spelling it out. I hope you don't waste too much money on this half baked idea.

>>1203202
Jackson Balder technology is pretty much the same thing, except its been around like 5 years longer than the Lincoln lenses have.

>>1202911
>Since you can't draw your own conclusions, it will be hot and heavy.
In my book, #1 optimization for welding gear is 'buy the coolest that gets the job done'. If you plan to weld in 60F+ weather, you'll sweat like a bitch in anything but gloves and a plastic hood. Once the visor is fogging up just from wearing it, workday is over my man.

>>1202938
>You'd have a point if so many plastic hoods weren't xenomorph-tier gigantic
to let air in while still covering your neck, yes.

>>1203202
>honestly if you're buying a new lens these days you'd be stupid to not go with the new Lincoln 4C
They're very nice to look through. Almost weird to see the puddle in color! Miller Digital elite is a lighter shade when off though, if you ever work infdoors, that can make a difference.

The only thing I don't like about the 4C (maybe you have a tip to share here) is that it's very slow to lighten again after killing the arc. Even at the lowest sense setting, I feel like I'm counting to ten after every joint to see again. Not bad for long welds, super annoying when tacking.

>>1203233
>Jackson Balder technology is pretty much the same thing, except its been around like 5 years longer than the Lincoln lenses have.
Yes. Tried both in person, they look identical in practice.

>>1203239
You should see the one I use these days
It's downright ridiculous

>>1203244
Well, this *is * a board for posting pictures of your Mongolian xenomorph basketweavers.
(let me guess-- respirator?)

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>>1203246
The picture doesn't do this thing's size justice.

>>1203247
?
Looks like a typical autodark welding hood. It's a lot more sedate looking than the 4C, that's for sure.

>>1203248
It's passive though.
Pretty sure I could fit my whole Lincoln auto inside of it if I took the headgear off and then some.

>>1203250
I'd say no way just because the Lincolns are so funny shaped :-) Some of 'em look like they have built-in cowcatchers.

>>1203187
>the crucible will be tantalum carbide.
>I am going to be on a standard 15amp 110volt circuit
Nice economization there. But anyway, some tips to bring this more towards three-quarters-baked. Submerging the mold with argon won't work because hot argon is much ligher than room-temperature air. Maintaining protection would require a sealed enclosure like what's used for welding titanium. A TIG torch can get plenty hot enough to melt tungsten. Most of the heat is deposited on the positive side, so a tungsten electrode running at the hotter end of its stable range could easily produce the required temperature on the base metal. However, actually maintaining that molten puddle of tungsten (which will be radiating heat like a miniature star, far more intense than a lightbulb filament) will take a considerable amount of power input, and heating it enough to not freeze IMMEDIATELY will take rather more. It might be doable with 110V15A, but you'd need to maintain all of that power draw for long enough to heat up the area around the tungsten enough for the heat flux to sustain itself at the desired temperature, and that means a duty cycle larger than a machine made for 110V will probably be capable of. There are reasons tungsten is almost always sintered. Why do you want to cast it anyway?

>>1203242
turn down the delay AND sensitivity. these things seem to be quite a bit more sensitive, i've had just the glowing metal set the thing off so it'll sometimes go nuts. i don't really mind it taking a bit to lighten up tho, i've always found i tend to have them turn light too quick and the weld is still glowing bright enough to bother me a bit

i compared both the miller and Lincoln. both seemed pretty good but i liked the lincoln lens better. i did however like the miller helmet better, be nice to combine the 2. biggest thing i didn't like about the miller was the digital part

that 4C lens is really something else. almost zero eye strain after hours of welding and it sure gives you a damn good view of the weld. no more stopping to check and see how it's doing and i can also damn near immediately tell if i'm about to burn through so i can correct before i fuck up too badly

>>1203574
>turn down the delay AND sensitivity.
sadly, both are all the way down. And yeah, I think it doesn't want to lighten till the weld is no longer glowing and when I'm tacking that's just.... evil. I can throw a tack every three seconds with the miller helmet, and it's 3-4x as long with the Lincoln.

>i compared both the miller and Lincoln. both seemed pretty good but i liked the lincoln lens better. i did however like the miller helmet better, be nice to combine the 2.

Exactly how I feel.

>>1203839
what's your lighting like? working under a car i noticed working with poor light seemed to make it take quite a bit longer to switch. hanging a flashlight helped a lot but still didn't go back to a light shade as fast as other helmets. it's definitely the glowing weld causing it to stay dark, not really sure why the flashlight helped tho. could be the extra light helped drown out the glow a bit so it seemed dimmer to the helmet

you could also try blocking a couple of the sensors but of course that could create other issues

>>1203846
>what's your lighting like? working under a car i noticed working with poor light seemed to make it take quite a bit longer to switch.
Ah, that may be it. I'm always indoors with definitely not enough light.

>>1203849
you could try something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Steck-Manufacturing-23240-Mig-Light/dp/B002YKIM6S

i've thought about trying to rig up a strip of LEDs on a helmet too but don't really have any cheap helmets to sacrifice.

>>1203202
>you use sand as a mold

Get out if you don't know what you're on about.

Silica melts at nearly 3000°F before tungsten does. Such a mold has no hope of holding. There are a couple of exotic carbides that can just barely hold it (although I don't know if the carbon will leech into the tungsten), but good luck getting the whole process to work, in any event. To my knowledge, the vast majority of tungsten forming is done without melting it, specifically because it's extremely difficult to contain something that hot.

>>1203298
I thought as much.

I am going to be using a partially sealed enclosure with a release at the base and positive pressure sustained by the argon flow from the cylinder.

I appreciate your input towards the chambers design, however I already have that covered.

I want to cast in order to achieve a desired shape. Using a TIG welder seemed like the most cost effective way to *possibly* liquefy tungsten, however I do not have experience with one and from what I have read I am not sure I could produce enough heat with a TIG to maintain a liquid state long enough to cast even if I preheat the mold and the crucible.

I am here asking you to find out if it can be done using 110 at 15, or maybe you know a better way.

Also I was considering using investment casting plaster as the mold since it can easily be brushed and polished away after the metal solidifies.

Any insight is appreciated. Thank you.

>>1202707
Expect in some areas.. If you run your own lines and your shit catches fire from a lightning strike. The insurance company will fuck you royally and blame your /diy/ line for the fire.

That being said. I can't wait until I can install my own shit... The place I rent in now won't let me have installed a single 220v in the garage... And it's a real Bitch running an extension cord from the back of the stove (it's gas but there's an outlet back there for electric too) into the garage and the door doesn't close all the way with fucking Thor's iPhone charger running through the house.... So my fucking cat has to be locked up..

>>1202709
The Fibre-Metal Pipeliner is light, very comfortable and beloved of pipe and boiler welders for good reason. My pipewelder instructor turned me on to them. and you can either use fixed shade lenses or autodark inserts.

I glued a flap of leather apron to the top edge (I love 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant) since I often weld outdoors, and trimmed the bottom edge for max chin tuck. The customary method for that is to use an old broken portaband blade or steel tape measure as a straight edge, mark with a Sharpie then cut with a zip disc.

You can choose from conventional or "rubber strap" headgear. The helmet is white for best reflectiveness.

>>1203886
>Any insight is appreciated. Thank you.

You have an industrial problem. Study industrial methods. I expect you won't be able to cast tungsten and you'd need MANY amps to melt it. You are just playing since there's no industrial use for cast tungsten, but have fun and good luck.

>>1203891
God fucking dammit! If this a certain "Dennis" who just moved from Mojave to LA, I told you not to do it! Of course you'll do it anyway. If you burn your apartment complex down, we will all be laughing at you!

>>1205154
There is a 220V dryer outlet 40 feet away from the point in the garage where I intend to do this, and I have not purchased a welding unit yet(which I will learn to use for its intended purpose too), so do you know if that could allow me to liquefy the tungsten for a long enough period to cast?

Also would alloying it help maintain its liquid state for a longer period of time? I think it may, though I would like to here from an experienced metal worker like you.

>>1205383
A dryer outlet isn't even near the amperage you'd need to melt tungsten to pourable state, and I don't know if it would also require an inert atmosphere.

What PRECISELY is your goal and WHY do you want to use tungsten? A metal and a process are chosen pursuant to a goal.

You should go to a real engineering forum. This is not one. This is 4chan.

I expect you'd need several hundred amps and perhaps an induction heater instead of an arc furnace, but this isn't the place to get those details.

If you want to build armor piercing penetrators those are sintered anyway. Just buy the tungsten as rod stock and be ready to spend a lot of money on that and a diamond grinding setup.

What are you trying to do?

>>1199422
What do you guys think of Fronius

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I'll repost this here since the qttdtdtdodtd thread is past bump limit.

You guys reckon this (handler 210 MVP) is the right choice for a beginning welder, if I'm almost certain I'll end up wanting more capability if I get the handler 140? Or any other suggestions? Also, one review mentioned needing an air compressor for this welder; why would I need that? Googled "air compressor for welder" and didn't yield any results as to why. Should mention I'll be using it mostly for off road bumpers, skids, frame stiffeners, axle trusses, and more things like that. Also plan to build a car trailer in the future to haul the Jeep.

>>1199429
Harbor freight flux welder works fine. The wire they have sucks, inconsistent flux in the core. Like a few inches weld like there's no flux. I've seen recently they've gotten a new brand, haven't tried it. The thing takes Lincoln welding wire so i buy that.
>If you get a flux core model, just be sure you can upgrade to gas later.
Flux is kinda needed for outside so one with both capabilities would be ideal

>>1207394
That welder is very similar to Miller's Millermatic 211--which is a fantastic welder and has done everything I've asked of it (I have used my MM211 to fabricate bumpers with zero issues).
Miller owns Hobart, and in a sense market's Hobart to the DIY crowd while implying the Miller's are better for production work. In this price range, you'd be hard pressed to find any huge difference in functionality. I know my Miller machine has "ifinitely" controllable settings, meaning the knobs can be turned smoothly, and I think the Hobart has the knobs that click into each setting (amps and wire speed).
If you wonder why that matters, then it's safe to say "it doesn't for your purposes."
If you know exactly what that means and are worried, save a little more for the Miller.
Either way, both machines are bad ass and should have no trouble with the work you intend to do.

You don't need an air compressor. You *will* need a welding gas tank and appropriate gas for what you're welding.
You can run a flux cored wire through the machine without gas, and will be fine.
There's more information to be had on YouTube for welding with gas than there is for welding with flux core.

There's a lot of differences between the two processes, but none that I would say matter much. With gas, you'll have no slag to chip off and clean away between passes. Without gas, your wire will be a touch more expensive and you'll have to clean the welds between passes.

There's no reason you can't buy flux core to begin with while saving up for a gas tank.

>>1207699
Thanks for the input. I have done a bit of research and knew I'll need gas for solid wire, even found a local supplier already, but that compressor thing really fucked me up. I've been around a lot of welding while being a mechanic for fifteen years, and never saw a welder hook into an air supply. I mean, I'm going to get an air compressor too, but was befuddled as to what it would do for welding. Thanks for clearing that up. Mostly I really just wanted some input from someone other than Amazon reviews. Again, much appreciate it, I'm going to pull the trigger on this one.

>>1207394
Looks like the Hobart is also transformer based, and the Miller is inverter.
Hobart will last longer, but is much heavier.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?662331-Hobart-210-MVP-vs-Millermatic-211

I know you weren't asking for a comparison to what else is available, but this is to give you an idea on how the Hobart stacks up against one of the most ideal DIY garage fabricating welders (my personal machine that I have experience with).
From the gist of the thread I linked, the Hobart will stand toe to toe with the Miller in all ways that matter regarding function. Some people even advocate for it over the Miller.
A quick glance over the thread, and all I saw was people bickering over small details--implying it, at the very least, will handle what you have planned for it.

Keeping in mind, if you're running off 120vac, you will not be getting the most out of your machine. That is an entirely different issue, and if you do not already have a 240vac circuit, you will need to install one to get your money's worth out of either of the welding machines.

I am about to buy the cheapest a/c welder I can find.

An ING-CO something or the other

How fucked am I? I have welded before but it was uncertified production line shit.

>Clock in
>Get placed on preset position
>Glue two pieces of metal together with electricity and electrodes
>Do this 383 times
>Clock out when time is up?

What can I look forward to?

>>1207705
Glad I could help. I don't think you'll be dissapointed--and in retrospect, I think I would have been better off with having bought a Hobart, now that I'm looking into the comparisons.
Too late to worry about it now, but you're making a great choice. Good luck welding, brah.

>>1207710
I read about the weight too, doesn't seem like it'll be an issue cause I'm a big ole boy. I actually did ask for suggestions on other options, and I appreciate it. Though you're making a pretty solid argument backing up what I wanted, which is great. I already have a 240V outlet waiting for it, only planned to use 120V for floor pans and body sheet metal; or should I just use 240V for that too? Thanks for your input.
>>1207715
Thanks again. I'm just glad I didn't come off as an uneducated fuck like so many that ask questions here. Though I really should have learned to weld over ten years ago. It's kind of embarrassing to have to ask another tech to weld something for you, when you're the senior tech at a well respected garage.

>>1207721
I don't have any experience welding sheet metal, but from my understanding of how the machines work, the higher voltage of a 240v circuit will just draw less amps and increase your duty cycle when you dial it down low for that sort of work.

There will undoubtedly be a chart inside the door of the Hobart that has recommended settings for what voltage you're running off of. I personally don't see a point in ever running 120v if 240v is an option, but it sounds like you will have better luck learning from a coworker than myself.
I weld as a hobbyist, with no reputation to damage. For fun functional crap around the house and garage, and steer clear from delicate work. I know the machines can handle it, but I also know my limits as a fairly ignorant man.

Mig wielding is fairly easy to become competent at, and with the Hobart, you can be relatively sure if your welds suck that's user error. Nothing will beat having a competent friend or coworker around to tell you how you're fucking up.

>>1207721
Hit real welding forums and the Miller site which has excellent videos.

Practice on CLEAN scrap of the thickness you want to weld.

Set your machine on some scrap before every welding session so you know what result you'll get.

For MIG on sheet metal, an autodark helmet will make life much easier. Need not be high dollar.

Practice welding in different positions. Welding schools have practice "trees" (basically a vertical pipe you can tack weld parts to then perform welds on the parts) which is a great idea for training yourself.

Copy the pros. Weldingweb, the Hobart forums, and the Miller forums are excellent resources for any skill level.

I prefer 240 for everything but 120 capability will get shit done when there's no other choice.

I have 50 and 100 foot welder extension cords I keep rolled up in plastic tubs. Worth it. You can also run off dryer and stove 240 outlets if you make a simple adapter pigtail. I've done that for many years and also have 240 outlets. Mobility is beautiful.

Your gas cylinder can be moved on a cart separate from the welder when convenient. See forums for different welding carts. I hate small casters and small wheels, but that's easy to cure.

I buy cylinders to exchange instead of getting assraped on a lease. You want "75/25" mix for automotive work.

Now go to weldingweb and spend the evening reading. You'll thank me later. Hobart and Miller have the same parent company and both are good machines.

>>1207735
BTW buy tips etc online but do develop a friendly relationship with your local welding supply, abbreviated LWS in most forums.

You may as well get twenty tips and five nozzles to begin with. Like toilet paper, they get used. Ebay stores are good too. Both tips and nozzles are pretty generic since they are simple copper shapes.

Get a clear face shield for grinding. Goggles don't protect your face.

>>1207735
Really can't thank you or the other anon enough, I was aware of the forums, but forget about them (I shouldn't because I'm on several automotive forums.) That makes a lot of sense about the duty cycle. I don't work in a garage anymore, (traded my blue collar for a white one, still in the industry) so I'll have to get with the dirt track car builders I work with and see if they'll share some knowledge.
>>1207743
Headed to the forums now. I do have plenty of scrap around, as I fabricate plenty of things that I have others weld for me... I ordered an auto dark with the welder, so I'm set there. I'll keep this short by just saying thanks again, I'm going to look into all points you've mentioned. And end with saying that my first planned project was already a welding cart, I'll be sure to get large casters.

>>1207394
have that Hobart and like it a lot. it was also my first welder and i've had it for about 8 months now. now that i'm more comfortable welding and setting up the machine i do wish i had the infinite dials millers offers but that's really my only complaint.

you don't need any air compressor for it or any welder that i know of. they may have been thinking of a plasma cutter which does require air. the only thing you'll need for that welder is welding gas unless you plan to only use flux core

>>1207699
wire speed is infinite, amps is the click type taps and that 210 has 7 of them

>>1207721
it's about 80lbs but really you should get or make a cart for it. trying to move a welder with gas cylinder attached is a real pain in the ass not to mention the far greater risk of tipping over the cylinder which can have either hilarious or deadly results

>>1207770
Yep, that's my first planned project.

>>1207758
This is why I come to /diy/. Sure there's ignorant fucks with their crabmeat and shipping container fantasies, but this guy here asked some legitimate questions with a little research to back himself up and got answers.
He didn't argue with the answers, and just used the knowledge given to him to ask a few more questions.

He laid his cards out and asked if they'll do. No elaborate variable coming into play halfway through helping him, like will it melt tungsten into a castable liquid.

I can respect a man grounded in reality and only hoping to further his knowledge. Fucking good luck, man. It sounds like you have the goals and resources to achieve what you're looking for.
Better yet, it sounds like you have the mentally balanced outlook to understand why and how to correct or overcome any issues that may cause a failure.

>>1207909
>whining about meta /diy/

for shame

>>1207919
I can appreciate some sort of joke within a joke, but a lot of people here legitimately seem to be delusional on what they can achieve.
I wouldn't so much say I was whining, as just appreciating when someone has a practical issue that can be resolved without arguing.

Crabmeat and shipping containers will always hold a place here in /diy/. It's just nice to see a series of things open and close in a straight forward manner.

If /diy/ were filled with more "doers" than "dreamers" maybe those crabmeat and shipping container threads would be much more exciting.

>>1199422
It entirely depends on your usage. I bought one of those 120v flux core mig welders from Princess Auto (Like Harbor Freight, but for Canadians). The thing doesn't even rectify to DC. It's really basic, but for what I'm doing it meets my needs.

>>1207923
>Crabmeat and shipping containers will always hold a place here in /diy/

Regrettably. The problem with nerd humor is that so many are autists who never know when to let go of a stale joke. Heh heh heh this is so funey. Heh heh heh.

>>1207417
>so one with both capabilities would be ideal
The difference in machines is a gas solenoid, which controls shielding gas flow. "Flux core only" machines lack this, while MIG machines can run flux core just fine with the gas off. Just swap the polarity to DC- for flux core.

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Total welding newbie here
I want to try and do stick and mig, but dont want to buy two machines.
Should i stick to mig/flux?
Im probably going to be welding small things so maybe a 215 is too much of a machine for a beginner and maybe that hobbart 210 is much better deal
What do guys think?

>>1208006
gasless flux core is useless get a DC stick machine a half decent one can then be used for tig

>>1208006
Hobart 210 doesn't do stick welding.
If the Miller 215 is within your budget, there's no reason not to get it, as it will do stick, mig and tig (with the additional tig kit).

Too much machine is better than too little, and you can't go wrong with Miller and Hobart. Some Lincoln machines are really nice as well. That being said, I wouldn't go and spend big money on a machine unless you're sure you'll be using it.
For the price of the Miller, you could get the Hobart, a Lincoln tombstone (for stick welding), consumables and probably a gas tank. You're paying for the convenience and versatility with the Miller.

If you were to try your hand at both stick and mig, I'd highly advise you to get proficient with stick first. Mig is so easy that you'll probably become complacent with it and never push yourself to properly learn stick. Stick welding can be a rewarding experience, and mig is more instant gratification without any real skill or personal challenge.

>>1208031
>mig is more instant gratification without any real skill or personal challenge.

If it does the job, who cares. I understand what you are saying, but it's kinda like saying you should master assembly language before you get to use the "easy" languages like Java.

I checked the Miller 215; looks like $1600 plus which is a bit out of my range since it would just be a toy most of the time. I have the el-cheapo Lincoln AC stick, and I can do beautiful work on heavy steel, 1/4 or thicker, but much thinner than that and I'm worthless. And also grinding. lots and lots of grinding. I'm a pure amateur to be sure. If I could live my life again I would learn welding properly, all types, along with machine shop skills. Oh well.

>>1208006
It depends on what you wanna do.
If you just need small pieces of metal to stick together for occasional projects and don't care this much about welding in general by all means get a small mig.
But if you think about doing projects with high quality high strength welds and want to learn to really weld learn stick.

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>>1208040
>high quality high strength welds and want to learn to really weld learn stick.

Plain old DC stick? I'm pretty sure that AC stick will almost always have some splatter.

And is mig that bad? What types of welding would produce beautiful work like pic related? It's a crank some guy made for the clutch on an old truck.

>>1208044
You'd be surprised how clean AC stick can be when using quality rods, adequate amperage and proper technique. I'm more of a TIG guy but my best stick welds ever have been made with AC.

MIG isn't that bad, it's just that "what you pay is what you get" applies to MIG way more than it does with stick. Cheap mig welders are meh at best while professional grade mig when properly used will be downright mind-blowing.

I can't see what process has been used in the pic because of all the coating but something similar can be made with both stick and mig, you just need a good hand and to whip a bit when welding.

Different welding noob here. I'm working on learning stick welding using my dad's old machine. It feels like something might be wrong with the machine, but I'm still really green and this is the only machine I've ever used so I'm not sure.

Machine is an old Marquette 295 amp AC arc welder. It's sat in my dad's shop for probably at least the last 20 years with only occasional light use. He's a carpenter, so it spent those years covered in a thick layer of sawdust. Before I started using it, I took off the sheet metal and blew everything out with the air compressor, but the fan was pretty much ded. Looked ok to me otherwise.

I rounded up some scrap and I've been practicing on it for the past week or so for a few hours every day. Been using 1/8 and 5/16 e6011 rods. Got a pretty decent feel for it now and I managed to lay down a few pretty decent looking welds, but yesterday it was completely different. Seemed like the current was going all fucky. When I started it up, I couldn't strike an arc. The rods would just stick to the work. So, I cranked up the amps on the machine a bit. Then it was too hot, so I backed the amps off a little. Tried again and it worked fine for about five or ten minutes, then I started pulling fucklong 3 or 4 inch arcs with 1/8 rod at ~"140" amps. Shut the machine off and gave it a once over, everything seemed fine. Machine wasn't hot or anything. Turned it on again, gave it another try, more bigass arcs. Fiddled with the amp control on the machine, Occasionally it would go back to just sticking the rods for a minute or so, but then more big arcs.

Did something fuck up in the machine or am I just a retard? I've been careful to check how hot it was often since the fan doesn't work and the hottest its got was warm. I havent been beating on it, but this is probably the most use its seen in at least 25 years.

Tl:Dr AC welder is throwing big long 4 inch arcs, amp control doesn't change it much. The fuck is happening?

>>1200771
Electrician here.

What you're proposing may possibly be prohibited by your local electrical code or the insulation rating of the wire running out to your garage.

You're going to find the safest, most reliable, and cheapest way is going to be trenching in a new line to the garage.

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>>1208129
>What you're proposing may possibly be prohibited by your local electrical code or the insulation rating of the wire running out to your garage.

>110/220 transformer/inverter
>against code

Really,nigger?

I'm not saying it's not a better idea to have a dedicated line (there's no way you have a 120V circuit in your house that carries enough current to power a welder, and after conversion losses at that), but still. If attempting to do so causes a problem, it's because the breaker failed. Protecting against this kind of foolishness is part of the reason it's there in the first place.

>>1208129
>What you're proposing may possibly be prohibited by your local electrical code or the insulation rating of the wire running out to your garage.

How could plugging in a device violate the code? You plug the converter into the outlet in the garage, which is what it is for. The local electrical code does not cover things that are plugged in.

And how does plugging something in affect the voltage insulation rating of the circuit? You do realize that a voltage converter only converts the voltage it supplies don't you? It doesn't convert the whole house or whatever you are dreaming. It's no different than converting AC to DC, or 110 to whatever kilovolts is in old CRT circuits, as far as the existing circuitry is concerned.

Are you really an electrician? So is it true that all that some of you guys know is how to identify red black green and white?

Having said all that, his idea is insane and unworkable, but not for any of the reasons you pulled out of your licensed electrician ass.

>>1208134
That's right dipshit, it MAY be prohibited by local code to use a transformer to feed your garage, or it may have to be approved by an engineer.

Also, if the wire is very old the insulation may not be rated for the higher voltage.

Also, you can get a large 120V breaker for your house and welder requirements vary.

The breaker is only there to protect the wire, not the end devices. Learn2electrical.

>>1208155
A 15 or 20 amp circuit at 120V doesn't have the raw wattage to run anything but the smallest little welders around. The only way to make this proposed situation work is to feed more Wattage into the garage. This would mean putting a transformer or VFD on the house side and feeding a higher Wattage into the garage.

That may be prohibited by local code and it may be prohibited by the insulation rating of the wire between garage and house if it's an old house.

Yes I'm a fucking Journeyman Electrician you stupid twat.

>>1208162
>That's right dipshit, it MAY be prohibited by local code to use a transformer to feed your garage, or it may have to be approved by an engineer.

I just about guarantee he meant one of pic related; a regular, plug-in 110/220 converter.

>Also, you can get a large 120V breaker for your house and welder requirements vary.

He doesn't already have a high-capacity 120V circuit, otherwise that'd be what he's using. If he actually tried to just swap out the breaker without considering wire ampacity, he's beyond help in the first place.

>The breaker is only there to protect the wire, not the end devices. Learn2electrical.

Well it's a good thing that was never a concern, then, I guess?

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>>1208167

>one of pic related

I'm not retarded, I swear.

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>>1208164
>This would mean putting a transformer or VFD on the house side and feeding a higher Wattage into the garage.

That's what I mean about you pulling things out of your ass. All that moron wants to do is use a voltage converter. Which part of buying a voltage converter that simply plugs into a garage receptacle morphed into whatever the fuck you are saying.

And how the fuck does anything feed "a higher wattage" than the supply circuit supplies?

oh. "twat". you're a fucking brit.

carry on sir. sorry I butted in.

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>>1208172

shit. the title of that pic seems sarcastic.

they have shit in britain that I would die for.

>>1208059
coil maybe sounds like the frequency of the machine is erratic and you dont have 5/16 rods they are 5/32

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>>1208195
>coil maybe sounds like the frequency of the machine is erratic and you dont have 5/16 rods they are 5/32

this is like autistic poetry.

I work with a Lincoln mig 255 and it's my personal favorite. But they're kinda like cars, everyone has their own.

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>>1208164
>This would mean putting a transformer or VFD on the house side and feeding a higher Wattage into the garage.
>VFD on the house
>VFD
>to power a welder
>because no outlet big enough

>>1208172
Look, asshole, I'm going to teach you something about electrical.

Let's say his welder draws 8 amps at 240 volts. That's 1920 Watts. A 15 amp 120v circuit will trip the breaker at 1800 Watts. In order to deliver enough wattage, which is surely more than 1800 watts for all but the smallest of welders.

Simply putting a transformer or vfd on the garage end won't enable you to run the welder because the wattage requirements are almost certainly too high. I was trying to explain to you that even if you could push that much wattage over your wires, it's likely contrary to something in your electrical code if not approved by an engineer.

Also, I'm pretty sure calling you a twat is universal because I'm not even British.

>>1208375
You think you're laughing at me because I don't understand something... the irony is palpable.

>>1208006
if you really don't want to buy multiple units check out the Lincoln Power MIG 210MP. it's MIG, DC stick and DC TIG. it's not much more then that Hobart 210 MVP and is what i originally wanted but fucking no one stocks them here and i didn't want to pay through the ass on shipping to order one.

>>1208396

>the irony is palpable

Explain to me, then, the point of using a VFD. I REALLY want to hear how this is going to solve his problem.

I'm giving you the benefit of the doubt here, assuming you aren't a complete retard, and just guessing that I misread something. Don't disappoint me.

>>1208195
>you dont have 5/16 rods they are 5/32
So I am retarded, I fucking knew it.

Gonna borrow somebody else's machine here pretty soon, that'll let me get a feel for what things ought to be like.

>>1208044
>Plain old DC stick? I'm pretty sure that AC stick will almost always have some splatter
AC tends to have more spatter than DC, but the amount of spatter depends mostly on machine settings, skill, and the electrode type you're using. 6013 on AC will run smoother than 6010 on DC, for example.

>And is mig that bad?
Short-circuit MIG is a relatively cool process. Penetration in metals thicker than sheet is typically poor under normal parameters. It's very good for large amounts of non-structural or light-structural welds, and it puts metal down faster than other consumer-accessible processes. Like the other anon said though, quality matters a lot with MIG. A variant that higher-end MIG machines can do is spray transfer MIG, which is very hot and fast with excellent penetration. It's used industrially for heavier stuff. Done skillfully, it leaves an extremely smooth weld bead.

>What types of welding would produce beautiful work like pic related?
Looks to me like that was TIG welded (dip-move-dip technique) and then bead blasted. TIG can produce x-ray perfect welds consistently, and it's great for small/fiddly things, but it is the slowest common welding technique after oxyfuel.

But anyway, stick is probably the best to learn on. It builds skills that are useful for both TIG and MIG, and low-end machines are both extremely cheap and actually useful. Its versatility (specialty rods, capable of welding outside and on dirty metal, can be done with 3x 12V vehicle batteries in a pinch) means that the skill and machine will still be good to have even if you move on to other processes for most projects.

>>1208006
The Multimatics (200 and 215) are very nice for portable work / home workshop stuff. Stick is unremarkable except for its high output from 120V outlets. TIG is basic (lift/scratch only, but it accepts remote controls). The MIG is excellent. It runs 10-pound spools, and it's probably the smoothest MIG you'll find as a non-professional. Apparently Miller put the same magic smoke in it that they use for the PipeWorx, because they handle the same in MIG mode.

>>1208426
Wait, before I go explaining myself I need to know if you know exactly how a VFD works?

>>1208499

Do you want a simplified "power in, different power out" explanation? Or would you prefer I delve into the finer points of transformer/inductor design, active PFC implementation, the merits of the various power supply topologies for given operating parameters...?

(j/k I'm nowhere near committed enough to this travesty of an argument to do that.)


Either way, the ONLY scenario in which I can see any practicality in a VFD powering a welder is if you already have something like a 50A 120V circuit (for some bizzare reason) and don't want to or can't re-wire it for 240V. I'm imagining this scenario as a vanishingly small probability, for obvious reasons.

>>1208515
>if you already have something like a 50A 120V circuit (for some bizzare reason)
As it happens, I have such a circuit. It runs six inches from my garage breaker panel to run high-demand 120V-only things. The highest is an AC stick welder (45A), but I more often use it for powerful grinders that are nominally 20A or less but can trip a 20A breaker if you give them a workout. There's a 240V circuit from the breaker too, which I mostly use for my regular welder.

>>1208515
> transformer/inductor design,
>VFD

That's what I thought.

>>1208542
A 45 Amp, 240V. Yep, you have to trench a new line or you will definitely violate code, and if something happens your insurance investigators might void your home insurance.

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>>1208672
>> transformer/inductor design,
>>VFD
>That's what I thought.

No idea if this is supposed to be a jab at the disconnect between the EE and electrician profession, or if you're just to ignorant to know that switch-mode power supplies _are_ based around a transformer (or multiple transformers).

Given the rest of this dialogue, I'm inclined to think the latter.


Way to dodge the question, though, quality stuff, gr8 deb8, you should run for president, etc.

>>1208687
VFD's don't use coils. The "transformation" is done entirely by solid state electronics that rectify to DC and then PWM to AC. No coils = no transformer.

I think that's going to be the last thing I explain to you. You're wasting my time.

>>1207957
....s-so one with both capabilities would be ideal

>>1208752
>VFD's don't use coils. The "transformation" is done entirely by solid state electronics that rectify to DC and then PWM to AC. No coils = no transformer.

I was ready to call you a dumbass, but, apparently, that isn't incorrect. I had assumed all VFDs were basically 3-phase switchmode supplies, but, apparently, the one I tore down was the oddball, not the other way around.


So, uh, yeah, now that we're done with this irrelevant tangent you brought up for some reason, you going to get around to explaining how a VFD magicks 4kW+ out of a 1.8kW socket yet?

>>1208979
Lol, you didn't have a VFD with coils in it, bullshitter.

Anyways, are you familiar with transmission lines? You step up the voltage on one end and step it down on the other so you don't have to run HUGE lines everywhere. Same concept I'm trying to explain, and I'm saying VFD's because they're cheaper and easier to get than transformers.

I think one of the points you're choking on is how to get the larger wattage to the vfd on the house side. This is how you do it: you install a new breaker and feed a new line from the panel to the vfd, out of the vfd you run a line back into the panel and connect to the garage circuit.

I mean it's a little more complicated that that because you're not allowed to make splices in your distribution box, but that's the basic idea.

It's still going to be a worse long term solution than trenching for multiple reasons.

>>1209009
Continued...

You would work backwards, you determine max wire voltage and buy vfd's accordingly, with a few other considerations. Then, based on you max voltage and your 15 amp wire capacity you would then determine the largest breaker you can use to feed the vfd on the house side. It's probably going to be 240V breaker because those VFD's are more common.

>>1209010
You may find there's no significant advantage over simply dropping in a 15 amp 240V breaker and delivering that to the garage. Of course then you'd have to have a panel there to run your lights and other 120V stuff.

I was just explaining to you the only conceivable way to push the max wattage out to the garage on the existing wiring.

Are we done here?

>>1209009

>Lol, you didn't have a VFD with coils in it, bullshitter.
>coils

Trade slang, I swear...

Anyway, I pulled it out of a scrap bin at an IT temp job I was doing a long time ago. TECHNICALLY wasn't supposed to be taking shit out of there, but the supervisor didn't give a shit, so...whatever. In retrospect, I probably should have saved it until I knew how to fix it. I'm guessing it was probably worth a good chunk of change.

Maybe it was just a 3-phase inverter, but I swear it said "VFD" on it.

>I think one of the points you're choking on is how to get the larger wattage to the vfd on the house side. This is how you do it: you install a new breaker and feed a new line from the panel to the vfd

Christ. You realize that you could have just that in your first post, and I would have just called it a more shit idea than putting in a new line, and that would have been the end of it.

>Anyways, are you familiar with transmission lines?

I already know where you're going with this, and I'm almost entirely certain you can't do it. At least, not as-is. VFDs require an inductive load on their output, in order to filter the PWM signal into an actual AC waveform. Being hooked up to a capacitive load (such as the input stage of another VFD) effectively dead-shorts the output stage on every pulse. If the VFD in question has active PFC instead of a simple rectifier/capacitor, it's still a bit of a crapshoot on whether it takes any more kindly to the idea.

You could stick some bigass inductors on the output, I guess, but that just adds more bullshit and cost on top of an already weak idea.

>Are we done here?

Finally. Don't be so god damn deliberately obtuse and maybe you'll save yourself some time in the future.

>>1209035
>trade slang, I swear

What trade? Apprentices don't have all the info so naturally they get confused but I've never heard talk about 'vfd coils' outside of early years apprentices.

If you're in the trade you must be an apprentice. I don't say that to put you down, but you obviously don't have all the information. You call me obtuse but if you were a Jman or electrical engineer or something I wouldn't have had to explain vfds to you or walk you through all the details so far.

So what's your story? Are you an apprentice? Working on an engineering degree? Concrete finisher that missed his calling?

And what's all this about VFD's requiring an inductive load on their output? That's simply not true and you can test it for yourself.

Got a UPS? Guess what, they do the same thing. AC in, rectified with semi-conductors to DC, passed over a battery bank, then PWM'd out by semi-conductors. Try plugging a plain incandescent bulb, 100% resistive load, into one and you'll find that your lamp will indeed turn on. Your $10 resistive electric tea kettle will too.

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>>1208672
>A 45 Amp, 240V. Yep, you have to trench a new line or you will definitely violate code, and if something happens your insurance investigators might void your home insurance.
I think you have me confused with someone else. I was just commenting that I have precisely what you characterized as a circuit lacking a mundane purpose, for rather mundane purposes. And it's a 100A breaker box that only powers that 120V-50A circuit and the 240V-50A one (where did you get 240V-45A?). Everything installed by electricians from the company that built the house.

>>1209138
Yep, guess I was.

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Just sold my dirt bike, bout to buy an everlast 255EXT, from everything I've seen and read on it, it seems to be a top notch machine with all the features I'll ever need.
Pretty hyped to start TIG welding 2bh

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>>1209174
>bout to buy an everlast 255EXT

I am so damn envious now.

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>>1209175
Figure I may as well not play around and actually buy a decent machine instead of regretting buying a half assed one with missing features or not enough power.
Hope this shit doesn't explode on me right after the warrant runs out lmao

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>>1209176

this is a tachometer mount some guy made for his truck. I'd love to be able to start with metal stock and produce something as beautiful as this.

And if you can do this little thing this well, you can probably do just about anything you like.

>>1209182
Looks pretty simple, hack saw or band saw to cut the top piece out, hole saw to make the hole big hole, a throatless shear would make quick work of the bottom piece, belt sander and files to smooth it all out,
You could do it all with a hand tools or a dremel +hand tools but having the other stuff makes it super easy and fast.

>>1209182
it's actually not that hard if you have the right tools. biggest reason that thing looks so good is that they painted it, the weld isn't even very nice

>>1209176
Have fun.
I went with the 200DV and have been doing lots of little projects with it.
You'll be wanting a good solid work bench and lot's of clamps. A way of sharpening the tungsten is also essential. I use Chem-sharp and a small HF style 3"grinder with a diamond wheel.

>>1209762
I don't think that's painted
>>1209974
Def gonna invest in a good steel table, prob just use a bench grinder or belt sander to sharpen electrodes.

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I bought a Lincoln mp210 to learn on. Does stick and mig out of the box. very happy with the purchase of its in your price range

Pic related, making a bench for me entryway.

is a shade 14 goggle sufficient to look at the sun?

>>1211689
Way more than enough. A ten is plenty.

>>1210565
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-in-diamond-wheel-kit/A-p8405953e
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/3-in-bench-grinder-with-flex-shaft/A-p8708141e
This is the setup I use. Got all parts on sale for under $30 and have seen some companies modify them with angled guides and sell them for ~$300.
Takes about 15-20 seconds to sharpen now and much easier than using a full size bench grinder.

>>1210565
It is, the weld makes that obvious.

>>1199422
I bought an everlast 250 tig several years ago. it's OK but the pedal failed and the "arc power" control was fucked up so every time it started an arc it would blast a hole in anything thin so it is impossible to use for that. i rewired the arc power knob and replaced the pedal, now it's somewhat better, but the stop/start still kind of sucks.

the gas solenoid also gets stuck on sometimes.

Miller 304 is way way nicer to weld with.

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>>1209174
Hype af 2bh

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I need to make a welding cart, post your carts/ ideas/ cool carts you've found

>>1213236
Go to real welding forums and see the projects section then use the search function. Also Google image search "welding cart" and you'll have more than enough to work with.

Large casters are ALWAYS better than babby casters. I hunt mine used. If your only available casters suck, bolt them on instead of welding so you can swap them out later.