Rusting steel

liquid fire maybe...
>>1198115
try not to get blind though

>>1199175
>quickly
There are no magic chemicals that make rust melt off metal.

You can do it very slowly with some chemicals, (soaking overnight) but you'd also have to do some minor mechanical removal. You might simply be looking at replacement for cost effectiveness.

>>1199176
Hmm, is there anything i would be able to put in a marker or bottle and draw it on?

>>1199177
I think you misunderstood the question, i want to rust stainless steel. Sorry for the misleading picture

>>1199178
AFAIK it doesn't melt plastic but not sure about the tip (or the type of plastic used for the marker)

>>1199179
electrolytic etching's really fast, and you can use it with stencils.

Bleach. oxidizer and oxygen all in one nice brushable or sprayable liquid.

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>>1199175
Holy crap so much stupidity in this thread.

OP, there IS a magic chemical to remove rust (and all other dirt etc) from stainless steel and leaves it looking pristine after just a few seconds of scrubbing. It's oxalic acid, and is less than $2 for a big 21oz container. Pic related. You will never use anything else on stainless steel again.

You're welcome.

>>1199217
anytime I've used barkeepers friend, it had the opposite effect to that required by OP, desu. Good stuff tho.
>so much stupidity
yes, quite.

>>1199177
You didn't read ops request

He didn't say he wanted to clean the metal, he wants to rust it

>>1199217
Again someone who didn't read ops request

>>1199179
You can try using some peracetic acid by mixing hydrogen peroxide and vinegar. Apply with a spray bottle. I use the stuff to brown gun barrels all the time—watching the rust form almost instantly is pretty neat. Make sure you make a low concentration though as it's pretty nasty stuff in higher concentrations. Give it a try, but be safe!

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>>1199177
>There are no magic chemicals that make rust melt off metal.
Au contraire, anon. This stuff practically does that. I've never seen anything that made rust disappear like this stuff did.

>>1199221
>>1199224
'I assumed OP made a typo because only a moron would want to cause their stainless steel to rust.

If OP did want that, then there are really only 2 options:

1) buy faulty stainless steel which is more prone to rust. All stainless steel is not equal and the blend of other metals to change regular steel to stainless still varies, with some more "stainless" than others. In fact, "stainless" is a misnomer and it really should be called "very rust resistant steel."

2) get a big piece of iron or regular steel, stand next to the piece of stainless steel you want to rust, and run your angle grinder against the iron/steel for a few minutes, blowing plenty of rustable steel dust onto your stainless steel. Then just spray some water mist onto the dust. that will create the illusion that your stainless steel has rusted.

>>1199175
A strong acid like HCl

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>>1199217
The ironing.

salt water electrolyte solution, there is something in burning charcoal that keeps rusting my shit real easily , maybe the sulfur

>ITT
>People who can't read

Lots of rust inhibitors on the market.

>>1199227
Stainless steel is a coating over carbon steel.

Stainless is only protected from rust by the topmost layer. That's why you have to use stainless cleaners that reapply that layer to stop rust.

One scratch allows an area to rust, removing the top layer gives access to all the metals in the mixture.

In other words, scratch it.

>>1199321
>Stainless steel is a coating over carbon steel.

Sigh. Where do you people get such entirely wrong information?

Are you thinking of chrome plating?

>>1199212
This

>>1199336
I work in fucking industry asshole.

When you buy stainless steel how do you specify it? By the thickness of the coating which I always get 316. I work in salt mining and even 316 doesnt last long in out wet areas.

Stainless steel is not through and through "stainless", it's carbon steel which is plated via a chemical process.

I don't know what the fuck your thinking of but I believe you are mistaken in your definition of stainless steel.

>>1199175
mureatic acid

And to answer ops question anything abrasive to scratch the outer coating then any kind of oxydant you want to get at the carbon steel in it.

With a little brine and sand ss starts to rust in days, depends on how much exposure it gets. Just gotta scratch it first.

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>>1199325
Your thinking of either plated or galvanized steel. Stainless is the the same throughout. Also your a fagot and your shit's all retarded.

>>1199354
You aren't in the industry or like the other poster stated you're thinking of chrome plating, stainless steel is a type of steel with high nickel content that shouldn't rust unless it's a very low grade...

>>1199359
All of it rusts buddy it's all about the top coat.

Ya it's an alloy but that means nothing in a salt refinery where we push 2000 tons an hour in an aqueous solution.

>>1199361
What would happen if you tried to use copper for the main material? I'm curious. Would we all die from copper poison or would there be a way to prevent that with a coating?

>>1199365
Copper oxidized in days in that environment.

We need to use nema12 or 4x boxes and double gasket them otherwise our high current connections turn green real fast.

I would say....expose as much surface area as possible so scratch it up good and soak it in vinegar. It would take a few days but it would work. Why would you need to do this. And if you need to get rust off you dump coke on it and rub it with foil.

>>1199358
You're

>>1199175
The effectivenes depend to some extent on the alloy, but all stainless uses the same anti-rust mechanism, so the same ways to attack it apply. Scratch it up a bit with Scotch-Brite, sandpaper, or coarse steel wool to damage the oxide layer that protects the underlying steel, then (before it has a chance to reform) apply something with lots of chloride ions. Salt water would be safest and easiest. Sodium hypochloride (bleach / pool cleaner) would be more hazardous but faster. Concentrated hydrochloric / muriatic acid would be best but most dangerous. Keep the steel and applied liquid warm, and for bleach and acid, do this in a well-ventilated area. Once you have it as rusted as you want, rinse it off well. If you used acid, spray it down with a baking soda solution, and then rinse.

This is probably bait, but regardless it's a teachable moment that may be useful for readers.

>>1199354
>When you buy stainless steel how do you specify it?
Alloy, structural shape, thickness, dimensions, surface finish. For example, a vessel made to handle salt water might be made of 316l 7ga sheet (of dimensions suitable for the project) with a 2b (cold-rolled after pickling) finish.

316l indicates a particular alloy (http://www.pennstainless.com/stainless-grades/300-series-stainless-steel/316l-stainless-steel/). It has high chromium and nickel content, which gives it a durable oxide layer and austenitic crystal structure (typical of 300 series stainless in general) with minor ingredient tweaking to enhance its corrosion resistance further. Relatively high molybdenum inhibits chloride corrosion, and the extra-low carbon content prevents sensitization from welding. As you may have gathered, this designates a homogeneous alloy, not a surface treatment.

Sheet steel is commonly used to make stuff, with other options including plate (thicker than sheet, usually with a hot-rolled rather than cold-rolled final forming), tube/pipe, structural shapes (c channel, I/H sections, square/rectangular hollow forms), bar (solid sections of various geometric shapes), and less common things like cast shapes. In any case, a bill of materials will specify the kind and dimensions needed.

>>1199354
>>1199412
Surface finishes on stainless vary quite a bit. Hot-rolled shapes are typically pickled to remove scale and rebuild the passivation layer. They won’t rust, but they’re too rough to use in sanitary applications, which need a surface too smooth to harbor microorganisms. Therefore, there are various degrees of sanitary finishes for different purposes and using different methods. Plating of stainless steel with another substance is not a standard finish. The corrosion protection in all cases comes from the formation of a chromium oxide layer as environmental oxygen reacts with the chromium included as a part of the bulk alloy, and this self-repairing layer prevents oxygen from reaching and corroding the underlying metal further.


From what you said, 316 isn’t quite up to the task in your salt mine, so the proper alloy to use would probably be a superaustenitic grade like AL-6XN.

>>1199414
They don't make strut or electrical junction boxes like you say. 316 is the only choice. Takes a year in a medium exposed area. Then it rusts right through.

Even pvc boxes fail the salf swells the gasket and the hinge pins /haps and keeper fall off. Can't use pvc for high voltage junctions (15kv +) either.

>>1199414
>>1199412
Say it anyway way u want.

Stainless steel not corrosion proof and the only thing that lasts the longest is 316, given you don't scratch it. After that it rusts just as fast and as bad as carbon steel or galvanized in marine or salt applications. So for my highly corrosive application it may as well be carbon steel with a nice shiny paint job even if it's a coated alloy.

You can make anything you want out of anything you want but without a UL or cUL or csa stamp on the box you can't use it for electrical.

>>1199217
You are the fucking retard, he wants an object to be rusted

>>1199358
You're the same faggot that posted how I was wrong about buying refrigerant online requiring valid certification, and in your own fucking link it said it required certification.

https://www.polymersolutions.com/blog/why-does-stainless-steel-rust/

You should probably stop using that image, you're embarrassing yourself.

>>1199523
Your link says that the chromium content of stainless (which is homogenous throughout the alloy unless damaged somehow) is what prevents corrosion.

>>1199427
>Say it anyway way u want.
>Stainless steel not corrosion proof
No one was saying it was. The disagreement in this line of discussion was the distinction between stainless steel and plated carbon steel.

And it seems that your problem is not that a suitable alloy isn't available (it is), it's that manufacturers don't customarily make the parts you need with it. Which is an issue of economics, not metallurgy.

Back to the original point though. Would you say that the difference between, say, a 304 and a 316 junction box is alloy content or the thickness of some coating? If the latter, what do you think the coating is?

>>1199536
>Your link says
It says
>When stainless steel is exposed to oxygen, chromium oxide is created on the surface of the steel because chromium has a very strong affinity for oxygen. The chromium oxide is a very thin layer which doesn’t spall off, and it prevents further oxidation of the stainless steel.

>>1199540
And where does this chromium come from? Is it a coating applied to steel that lacks chromium, or is it an ingredient in a homogeneous alloy? If you cut a chunk of stainless steel in half, will the freshly-exposed surface form this chromium oxide layer of its own accord or not?

>>1199544
>will the freshly exposed surface form this chromium oxide layer of it's own accord or not?

Yes it will, that's what makes it stainless steel and not chrome plated steel. Do you have stainless steel cutlery at home, is it scratched to hell, is it rusting? It's the same reason aluminum doesn't corrode, aluminum oxide layer forms instantly in air which stops further corrosion.

>>1199551
Then we're on the same page. But some people in this thread are not. >>1199325 >>1199321

>>1199571
yes, but if you scratch it off, a new 'coating' will 'magically' appear. Not like the chrome youre thinking of, where once its gone, its game over.

Sand it, mix vinegar and a little salt in a spray bottle and spray it on. If u can put a bucket of ammonia near it - should speed it up a bit

>>1199579
>youre thinking of
As I said, we're on the same page. Posing questions to people who are not is not the same thing as agreeing with them. Here's what I've said: >>1199389 >>1199412 >>1199414 >>1199536 >>1199544 >>1199571

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>mfw I go to the people ITT for advice and they operate machinery

I think comet, baking soda, or some baby powder would work to dust your painless heels, though it would probably be easier to throw them out into some arid soil as they would dust them without having to make a mess indoors.

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>>1199659

I operate machinery, 303's a bro, 316's a chore, 304 and 400-series make me want to drink myself into a coma.

>>1199175
Scrach the surface.

Then use Budweiser beer, salt water, or piss. Or a combo of all three. Thats eat all the stance fags do

Steel wool you lazy cunt
>>1199175

Get your piece of stainless steel. Give it a quick scrub with a nylon scour and some detergent to get any oil or other crap off it, and then scrunch up a steel wool pad (plain pad, no soap) over it so that you get little flakes of iron filings falling onto it. Depending on how good the steel wool is, you might have to assist this with scissors. Once you've got your steel wool dust all over it, give it a quick light spray with bleach or salt water, leave overnight, and you should have rust staining on there.

And no, stainless steel is not a coating, its the composition of the metal, so Mr "Hurrr, I work in a Salt Mine", can fuck right off and read what's on this page: http://www.bssa.org.uk/about_stainless_steel.php

>>1199175
naval jelly

i've been removing rust and refinishing steel chairs with it.

>>1199175
It may have been stated already, but the first several posts make me think that it hasn't. NaCl + H2O2 will do the trick faster than anything.

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>>1199175
petroleum jelly to protect metals from rust

>>1199956
Keep practicing that reading comprehension, Anon. You'll get it someday.

>>1199959
yeah I noticed it too late; he wants to remove rust... Then muriatic acid should work

>>1199175
You need an oxidizer, like hydrogen peroxide or bleach

>>1199961
boy oh boy, you are 0 for 2, anon. consider getting some reading glasses as a short term solution

>>1199930
It's still shit.

>>1199177
Hydrochloric acid does a pretty good job (also known as muriatic acid in it's dilute form). The metal tends to rust pretty rapidly when it's exposed to both HCl and atmospheric oxygen, so I like to keep the metal submerged and dilute the acid down by adding more water. After the solution is sufficiently dilute, you should quickly rinse it down with isopropyl alcohol and then rinse it again with methanol.

If you want a good etch for cadmium, repeat the above steps but use nitric acid instead of hydrochloric. Cadmium oxidises like a bitch though.

>>1199175
The hotter it is the quicker it will rust.
Soak in an oxidiser (hydrogen peroxide) might have to leave it a couple days.

>>1199175
Why are you buying shitty rustable stainless anyway??

>>1199175
Depends greatly on the composition of the specific stsinless.

If it is "low quality" just saltwater will do the trick.

Now, if you sre dealing with medical level stainless steel you are probably SOL, unless you have the means for some galvanic oxidation.. which is not so simple

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>>1201813
I wonder if putting some aluminum near it in contact with salt water helps speeds it up.

>>1201816
If anything, aluminum would protect it from rotting. Try gold instead. Or better, use electricity.

>>1199175
piss,beer,seasalt and vomit

>>1201816
the aluminum will passivate too quickly to be any use - the galvanic series is for the base metal not the oxide coat.

Scratch the stainless with steel wool and then spray it with ferric chloride (PCB etchant, can sometimes find in hardware stores) dissolved in water and mixed up with extra salt in a spray bottle. Hydrating the powder makes heat so add some FeCl3 slowly to water, mix, then add some more - don't dump a lot into the container at once. That shit is also acidic as fuck so don't get it on you.

You can also hook it up to a battery/charger so that the stainless part is +, then get a sponge and hook it up to the -, and soak it in citric acid/orange juice or lemon juice, that'll take metal off as you do passes, then spray it with salt water and let sit for the rust to happen.

>>1199217
>holy crap the stupidity
Op is trying to rust metal not remove it you sniveling ass

>>1199217
Omg, I hate it when stainless rusts! This shit is okay, but steel wool will work just as well. Just make sure you go in the direction of the grain or it'll look like ass.

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>>1199226
I see what you did there, buddy
>"Au"

>>1199175
Use ammonia and bleach

>>1199682
I don't like where her middle finger is going.