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Camper Van Conversion

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Thread replies: 11
Thread images: 6

File: 20170530_205104.jpg (4MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]
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Hello. I bought a cargo van a few years ago, and I stopped using it for contracting about a year ago. I have since finished paying off the vehicle loan, and I own a big empty van now. I drew up plans to turn it into a camper van, and the wife thinks its a good idea as well.

What do you guys think?
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>>1185618
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>>1185619
Last summer, or possibly the one before. Work van in camper mode.
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>>1185620
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>>1185622
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>>1185623
Easy bug screens if you ever need. I still had the entire roll of screen left after this.

>>1185618
Each block represents 4", everything is to scale. The vehicle Model is 2004 E150 Superduty Regular length w/ slider
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>>1185623
Looks comfy af
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>>1185682
To be honest, mine and my wife's feet hit the bottom of that shelf that is holding the TV. In the plans present on the OP, that is a 10" memory foam mattress on a completely redesigned deck/frame system within the van.

We are planning on converting this van, traveling a bit, buying a short bus and doing it all over again with a kitchen and bathroom.
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>>1185618
OP here. It's my understanding that RVs have an internal, isolated 110v system within them that runs off of "shore power", or external power found at most campsites or homes in America.
How do I go about this within a smaller unit such as this van? I figure I need a shore power external port for the exterior of the van. I'll run romex from that to an isolated breaker box in the van, and run a few receptacles from there.
I believe this would allow me to run the van off of a generator or as well if we head somewhere without shore power. Do I just ground it to the frame of the van?
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I'd be checking out RV forums for details as this board isn't one.

Your frame ground won't be an earth ground to shore power because tires aren't conductive. I'd ground any shore power circuits to shore power grounds. Otherwise you could end up with a hot van body...
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>>1186175
>"
When connected to grid power, the ground lead is connected to an earth ground at the service entrance. The neutral power lead is connected to the ground lead at that point also. Your RV is considered a sub-panel and only carries these leads through to the outlets as is. The only earth to ground and neutral to ground lead connections are at the service entrance."

I believe this indicates that the external power source will provide the ground, and that chassis grounding is reserved for the DC system already within the vehicle.

>"Then if there are any exposed "hot" wires (broken insulation, an electrical component touches the case of a metal box, etc.)--an electrical connection causes high current flow and causes the upstream fuse/breaker on the "hot lead" to pop."

I believe this states that an internal, isolated breaker immediately downstream would prevent shocks and harm to myself or the vehicle by tripping prior.
Thread posts: 11
Thread images: 6


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