Concrete piers

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>>1183647
>what kind of concrete piers do I need to put in place? How deep should I go so it doesn't fall over the next time a good wind comes up?

Depends on the weight of the roof. I think you'd be better off using steel or using a slab to weigh it down like they do in bus shelters

>>1183659
I plan on putting up a number of these in a row to shade my patio. The patio is made of pavers and is quite nice. Ripping it out to pour a slab would kind of defeat the purpose. Also, this shade a distance about 36 feet long. That much concrete would be a huge expense.

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these things are very interesting

>>1183647
footing (based on soil type)
bolted on steel riser and support
cover the steel with wood or paint it to look like wood.

>>1183647
i get paid $120/hr to answer stuff like this.

>>1183771
I get $130/hr to do this

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>>1183768
>bolted on steel riser and support
I'm not going to use steel. I already priced it out and the difference is an order of magnitude in my area. I can get 4"x6"x8' Douglas Fir beams for about $10 each. A steel beam able to support the weight would cost much more than that, on top of all the dressing up I would need to do to it to make it look good. I plan on covering the whole thing with lattice and growing a flowing vine on it and wood would look best out of the box.

>footing (based on soil type)
This is what I need to know. I was thinking of using cylindrical concrete forms (ie a Sonotube) but I don't know how far down I need to go to support the weight and forces I am dealing with. I was told that, if I was going to use wood, I should bury it half the distance it was above the ground (about 4-5 feet in this case). Since I don't want to use wood concrete was my next choice.

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>>1183775
I only get that much when I shitpost.

>>1183840
Concrete pilings are what I would use to affix the wooden beams. Dig a 4 feet deep hole and top it with a sonotube that is stuck about 1/2 a foot into the ground above the hole. Fill the entire thing with concrete. That gives you a 3 1/2 tall, round concrete piling, 4 feet footer, where you can place wood to the top. That will keep it well away from any soil problems.

Like the left image, only on top of the concrete pillar.

3 feet deep, 2 feet across

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>>1183845
Thank you for the help. So, something like my picture?

If I get your numbers right it should be a 4-foot concrete cylinder (6 inches extending above the soil level) over a rectangular footing that is 1 foot deep and 2x2 feet across. What diameter of concrete forming tube should I go with? 8 inches? Why a rectangular base and not just a straight cylinder?

>>1183873
The problem with this type of footing is it only supports vertical load. i.e. straight down. It's great for decks or a pergola. Your original pic produces substantial torque at the ground (i.e. it's gonna bend) and that type of footing simply won't cut it alone.
Now there is a way to eliminate that torque, but it requires using cables or counterweights. Look up Cantilever bridges.
Might try your ideas here http://structural-analyser.com/
(not a shill, that's just a fairly good simulator. There are others including a few that let you watch things wobble about.

>>1183873
That was just an example. You'll need to sink the wooden post down into the cement for something cantilevered like that. Otherwise, that anchor in your image will become a hinge.

>>1183647
Sail cloth Roman shade could do the job better.