Can anyone see anything on this board that would make it not

I've just spotted what looks like a spot to put in a transistor labelled P1 in the top right of the picture. Maybe that's it?

>>1182788
Yeah, you need to populate Q15 and D20 as well..

>>1182789
Thanks for your help. No idea where they would've gone. Nothing was loose in the case when I opened it

Keep us informed!

File: socially awkward penguin.jpg (2KB, 126x126px) Image search: [Google]

2KB, 126x126px

>>1182792

Never lose that innocence, Anon.

>>1182788
> hey lets just start populating empty spaces
Empty spaces are absolutely common on pcbs when you design it and put the order in then some jumped up suit decides they want the cost cut by 3c or you realise whoops this circuit i copied from an old textbook wasn't exactly right and its fucking up big time.
Anyway what are you going to stick in there if you don't have a clue what came out?

What you need to be doing is draw the whole thing out, figure out how it works, put on some ppe, plug it in and trace it out on a suitably isolated scope.

>>1182803


this guy is half right: lots of PCBs come with parts missing, so you can use the same PCB to accomodate various models with varying needs.

as for getting a scope and drawing out the schematic, etc, that's nonsense. even trained techs will just chuck the board away and replace it coz switching power supplies are a bitch to repair, unless you have intimate knowledge of that particular design, and a box of spare parts.

>>1182787
it looks dirty as fuck, shoot carburetor cleaner under the components. there might be dirt conducting between pins that shouldn't be connected.

look for cracked solder joints and broken leads. inspect the bottom where all the surface mount components are.

File: Wat.png (2MB, 1008x1334px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1008x1334px

>>1182787
What plugged into P3? Power LED?

First show a pic of the other side , also check if the capacitors seems dead (leaking, bulging,..)

Silly question, but how would i go about checking the board of an old tv? Is there a guide floating around somewhere with safety/practices/things to look for? Searching around i found a couple of possible solutions for it but i don't know where to start when it comes to touching things that might be "hot" and replacing things.

A good book recommendation will work in light of anything extensive.

>>1182896

nobody actually knows how to fix TVs anymore. today, a repair goes essentailly like this: (1) decide which to replace: LCD, the main board, or the power-supply/inverter board. (2) wait for parts, (3) if it doesnt work, go back top step 1.

>>1182807
>as for getting a scope and drawing out the schematic
sorry i thought i was in /diy/ when wrote that, didn't realise this was /buy/!!
but yeah doing it this way can take weeks-months depending on your background.

>>1182979
Lies. I fix tv's. Component level too. Mostly PSU issues from surge damage but every now and then signal board stuff. Beyond that yeah, we scrap them.

>>1182787
OP, take a better pic of D2/D3/D4. Could be bad.

if the batteries are Nicad or NiMh, i'd just wire up a simple charger (transformer), say 24V @ 1A, with a resistor in series to limit currrent to about 20% of the rated mAh, and wire them to the BAT+ and BAT- terminals.

having a custom charger for every tool is just an excuse to charge monopoly prices on designed-to-fail replacements.

File: AOI.jpg (234KB, 1000x1334px) Image search: [Google]

234KB, 1000x1334px

>>1182787
AOI

>>1183091
And possible U1, can't tell if its shit on top or the magic smoke was released.

>>1183091
/this
also show us the back of it

Yes show us the back

>>1182991
Go ahead and make a fucking scope, then, if you're too high and mighty to buy one.

Part of diy is having the right tools. Not having the right tools can be worked around sometimes, but almost always not with electronics, and never with component diagnosis.

>>1182787
Oh yeah yeah, i see it.
You shuld totally repair that