Wood Turning / Lathe General

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>>1181917
When I bought it, for a whopping $20, the previous owner said he lost several parts when messing with it, and he never got it running.

The spindle was completely frozen on me, and I couldnt get anything loose without using a torch. I tried PB blaster initially but it didn't help much.

As you can see, it is an OLD craftsman, all cast iron. I was able to use the model number to track down a manual, and a parts list.

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>>1181920
The parts list came in handy, considering the bearings were shot and the engineers that designed this lathe were cunts.

The bearing is nonstandard, so lolgoodluck finding it. After some research, I found out it is a 6203Z-3/4. As in, .75" x 40mm x 12mm. Because who doesnt switch between metric and SAE when possible.

>>1181917
>2017
>owning and/or using a lathe

You can literally go to a Home Depot or carpentry lumber yard and get everything you'll ever need

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>>1181923
Anyways, Once I got out the stepped pulley, I removed the pulley lock, and realized that the pin on it was sheered off at some point.

While the lathe may be listed on searspartsdirect, you probably guessed correctly that such an obscure part is unavailable.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/10323070/0247/0728000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=103.23070&searchTerm=103.23070

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>>1181927
I decided nigger rigging it would be the best bet, so I put it in my vice and went at it with my dremel.

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>>1181928
Once I had a hole started with the grinder, I switched to a cutting bit and prayed I didnt end up with a piece of steel in my face.

>>1181925
>buying things you can make yourself
cuck

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>>1181929
While ugly, it will work. I bored it down about 2/3rd the thickness of the pin.

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>>1181931
I snipped a piece of nail to use as my new pin. As it is I'm guessing at the metallurgy so yolo.

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>>1181932
I pounded it into the hole to make it deform a bit inside.

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>>1181933
I removed the lacquer coating on the nail a bit with a wire wheel, and prepared to tack it in with my welder.

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>>1181934
I love welding in the house. Really lets you inhale those yummy fumes. I had no idea if the two metals were going to be easy to weld. I assumed the actual part was steel, unlike the frame of the lathe, but who knows how weldable it is. Especially with my nail...

It worked well enough to hold.

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>>1181935
I hit the entire surface once more with my grinder to remove the excess slag. It was a pretty embarrassing job desu.

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>>1181936
i got the pin reassembled, and it seemed like it would interface with the pulley correctly. Back to rehabbing the rest.

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>>1181938
I removed the corrosion from all of the various shafts. Before reassembly, every single moving surface got a liberal coating of moly grease.

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>>1181941
It took about 4 weeks for my god damn bearings to arrive, but eventually I got it all put together. I still want to sandblast and repaint it, as well as built it a custom table, but for now it will do until I move into my new shop.

I also recently cut down a couple trees and decided it would provide a good opportunity to start turning.

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>>1181945
It came with a set of lathe chisels that I believe came with it initially. They are also Sears, Roebuck, and Co; and made in USA.

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>>1181949
Stripping the bark is kind of fun! Although I quickly realized why everyone on youtube wears a full face mask when they turn wood. I'm still picking chips out of my beard.

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>>1181950
I wanted to make a baton for my first project, since it's a simple shape and lets my practice removing lots of material. I had to remove about 2" from the diameter of this log to get it to the right size.

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>>1181953
I measured, and marked the grip area, and pommel with a grease pencil after getting the size down a bit.

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>>1181955
After starting on the grip, I stopped the lathe to readjust my rest and to get a picture. Still very rough, I know.

Based on the bark, I assumed the tree was oak, and while it still looks a bit like oak, the grain isnt as open as I would expect, and there was no vomity smell like when I normally work with oak. Maybe it's because I was removing chips instead of dust?

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>>1181957
I began working on the barrel of the baton next. It also came with a nice caliper so I was experimenting with that to ensure I was making the barrel an even thickness.

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>>1181958
Next I rounded the pommel and began sanding, This picture was after both 120, and 220. Unfortunately, there was a crack in the barrel on the last 3 inches or so; and that knot in the pommel got much worse deeper in. I'll deal with that later though.

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>>1181960
While I have a parting tool from the kit, I decided to use a piece of an old bandsaw blade to trim the end. I wanted to make sure it was a fine cut and I didn't want to fuck up at the last second with the parting tool. Prior to this, I sanded the end grain with 600, followed by 2000, and the parts that went with the grain to 600.

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>>1181963
First I filed the crack in the barrel, and the several holes from the knot on the pommel and grip with timbermate; then I thinned the timbermate a bit and filled the grain.

I then applied 2 coats of Danish Oil, with the second being a wetsand to further fill pores.

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>>1181966
I then sanded it back to 600, and applied several coats of gloss polyurethane to give it a hard coating. Here is a final pic of the baton. I still plan on doing a wetsand after with 2000 grit, and finally a polishing to make it shine.

Ok done dumping pics for now. What do you think of my first attempt at turning? Also, what should I try next?

>ps as seen in the background, I now have unlimited amounts of kindling.

>>1181969
Lad, you turned a horses cock

>>1181974
Well duh, always build things for multiple purposes

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Just bought a Harbor Freight lathe and started turning. Made a lighthouse to go in my Mom's beach themed bathroom. Gonna order a 4 jaw chuck on Friday.

>>1181957
Ash - all the beetle holes.

$20 lathe cant be beat, cobbled it back together and turned a nice little whacking stick.

Find a face plate and turn some little bowls and work up to some "boxes" Sharpen your tools, cutting into end grain is a PITA.

Almost pulled the trigger on an old lathe but I've never turned before. Anyone got a list of old craftsmans or w.e such that you can still get parts for? And what am I looking for in terms of chucks spurs etc

>>1181988
Thanks! I knew it had to be some kind of hardwood after digging into the endgrain! Do you know if I can use a generic faceplate or is it specific to the model lathe? I'll order one now.

I definitely need to sharpen, do you just use a bench grinder or do people use buffing wheels like for knives?

>>1182001
Generic face plate will work just need to know the thread pitch or something that will fit your setup - #1 or #2 morse taper?

Sharpening depends, I've used the bench grinder/buffing wheel as well as a belt sander.

Found a fun easy project for your ash https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5Uobt-f2YY

>>1182018
Dank, I'm definitely making one of those.

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>>1181917
>103.23070
King Sealy is the OEM.
>a bitch to find, by the way
Accurate Bearing Company http://www.accuratebearing.com/
>>1181920
>As you can see, it is an OLD craftsman, all cast iron.
Based on the logo is it from the late 1940's or 1950's.
>>1181923
>The bearing is nonstandard, so lolgoodluck finding it.
ABC, linked above, it specifically known for having bearings for old machines. If you tell them the make and the model of the machine they can often tell you the bearings it needs sight unseen. If you google the model number you will find quite a few places still making it. Amazon has them for sale for $6.61 and prime shipping.
>Because who doesnt switch between metric and SAE when possible.
Bearings were one of the first machined parts to make the switch to metric in the USA.
>>1181927
The pin is used for indexing. Have a quick google. Handy stuff.
>>1181997
Yes. None. Ebay and forums are the only places you can get parts from. OEM supplies ran out years and years ago. Anything Craftsman has sold in the last 20 years has been chink shit. That said, the old woodworking lathes are tough machines and they still have a following. Some stuff can be had aftermarket and anything else can generally be fixed by a local welder or machine shop. They aren't complex.
>>1182001
Grinders can very quickly ruin the temper on steel. Be careful. Wood chisels should never get so dull that used need one anyway (unless you drop one, which I have done many times). Using a sharpening stone or diamond plates is best.

Do your chisels look like picture related? If so, they are high-quality carbon steel (as opposed to HSS or Vanadium alloy, etc). Easy to sharpen but quick to lose their edge. Not used much anymore in tools. Still common with knives, though. Their 'high end' chisels of that era had chromed vanadium steel blades and blonde wood handles. I have a set.

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>>1182076
I did find the bearing eventually, it was a bitch though.

The logo has me thinking the same, which is kind of cool because my motor is from the same time frame. As for the indexing pin, I understand what its for but it doesnt seem that useful? What would you use it for in practice?

How would you go about using a sharpening stone? I mean for the gouges it would be very difficult right? From what I've seen online people use a grinder lightly to sure it up, but I'm barely competent enough to sharpen mower blades let alone turning tools.

Pic related is them, I will upload several pics, they seem to be the ones you posted.

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>>1182093
The markings on the handles are a little different, but the overall design is the same so I'm guessing just a few years apart.

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>>1182094
The metal has a bit of pitting, although except for one or two they are razor sharp. I may have a professional sharpener get them back up to snuff.

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>>1182095
The logo on the box is the same era as the one on the lathe, this is why I think they were purchased at the same time by the original owner.

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>>1182093
>How would you go about using a sharpening stone?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3weBtPAMFco
Obviously, chisels with flat edges are easier to sharpen using a stone but that video has a nice little guide for doing gouges.
>>1182093
>>1182094
>>1182095
>>1182096
That would be the basic set. Good chisels for their era but you will spend more time sharpening them compared to high-speed steel ones they make these days. They cut just as well, though. The 8 piece set was the 'deluxe' package, with faux-leather clad wooden box. You could also get a 5 piece set in a small box or each chisel by itself. I have the Chrome Vanadium set that was the 'super deluxe' package. Mine is an older set, though, as it has the previous logo and decals on the handles, instead of the later stamped ones. I bought them to match my Atlus/Craftsman lathe from the same era. I was lucky. It only used a thrust ball bearing, which was still good. Everything else is plain oiled bearings, which last forever.

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>>1182121

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>>1182122

Shoutout to my other thread which includes a little work with the lathe in OP.

>>1182331

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I have a question.
I want to make rocket nozzles ,maybe turn some screws or thread some pipes and just for general lathe projects that might come up.
Would a regular Chinese bench lathe suffice to make nozzles either from aluminium or steel? They would be small nozzles lets say 10 cm in diameter at max. I would buy a big ass lathe,since everything is just much more easier but due to space restrictions in my workshop i have to settle for a smaller lathe.
I'm also wondering if I could replace the motor and the gearing inside to make something more sturdy, since I read the motors can fail quite quickly and that the gears can fail.

>>1181917

Sears abd Roebuck have done a lot, I got one of their 22 rifles that was made in like 1940s (Belong to my granddad, passed down the tree.)

>>1182839

I have one of those lathes. Anything much over 2" (~5cm) can pose problems in certain situations. Around 3" (~7.5cm) is the max you can actually turn without hitting the carriage, if I remember right. Beyond that, you end up severely hampered by the limited size of the machine, and have to start finding workarounds to do simple operations.

Even with the somewhat limited space in my garage, I do regret not holding out for a larger lathe. If I were you (and had the cash for a larger one), I'd get clever with my shelving and storage and figure out a way to make space for something bigger. There are problems with the machine itself being cheap, too. You really do need to do some work on it (particularly to the carriage and cross slide) in order to get a really usable machine out of it.

That being said, 10cm is pretty damn big for a hobby rocket nozzle. If you don't need that much capacity, you may do fine with one of the mini lathes. Again, though, I'd think long and hard about whether saving the space is worth it. I've learned the hard way that machine tools, in general, really should be larger than you think you need.

>>1182858
I would probably machine around the 5 cm mark anyway at best but really appreciate your input, i just threw the figure out there since the technical sheet states it can machine object as big as 15 cm in diameter.
I mean I could buy a machine the size of the car but the workshop is way too small. I mean the things can be bought for 800 euros. But the things which are bigger than this and are of good quality are all around the 1500 eur ballpark. I think for the time being im gonna settle on this one if for nothing else just to learn how to turn metals and get some good practice and then i'll try to somehow squeeze a bigger one in the workshop.

>>1182839
They have a small metal lathe at harbor freight. Has anyone here tried it? Is it total junk or serviceable?

>>1181925

>2017
>changing your own oil in your car

You can literally go to the dealership and have them do everything you'll ever need.

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Probably not the correct place to ask, and I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what kind of router does /diy/ recommend?
All google gives is clickbait articles funded by marketing journalists, and I know fuckall about woodworking

>>1184050
Buy a used full size router w/ at least 2hp on craigslist; delta, dewalt, etc. NOT BLACK AND DECKER, SKIL, or kin. Any homeowner brand is not good enough for woodworking.

20-40 gets a great router.

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>>1184053
>NOT BLACK AND DECKER
Just to add to what this Anon is saying. Black & Decker started to shit the bed in the 80s. By 1994 they had so damaged the B&D name with their garbage consumer grade tools that they were forced to rebrand their 'Professional' tools (ie the non-shit tools) to DeWalt. It worked and it is a respected brand to this day. Prior to their terrible management team doing that to save a buck, their tools were some of the best you could buy. People forget that. Picture related. Look for the old logo of a B&D inside of a Nut. If it has that on it, and a metal housing, it is probably a great tool.

>at least 2hp
Modern tool makers over rate their motors a lot. Kind of like how a 15 amp outlet (1800 watts draw max) can somehow power a 5 HP shop vac motor (3700 watts). How? By the power of marking bullshit, that is how. So, if you are looking at a router from the 70's or before 1.5 HP is probably all you will need.

For older tools look for Black and Decker, Porter-Cable, Rockwell, and Stanley. Older Craftsman routers with a model number with 315.##### were made for them by Diehl Manufacturing. They are decent. Miller Falls also made decent routers but they are rare. For newer stuff, Makita's, DeWalt's, and Porter-Cable's are decent.

I have picked up older routers in perfect condition for as little as $5-$10. $20-$40 is more typical, especially if there are bits included. You will probably spend more on bits than you will on the tool itself. When shit spins that fast is costs money. Also, don't buy bit sets. Just buy what you need. Bits in sets often don't last as long as high-quality single bits.

>>1184053
>Delta
Delta does not make handheld routers. They do make shapers, though.

>>1184050
Porter Cable and Bosch are the most popular ones. Make sure it has speed control. Larger diameter bits must be run at slower speeds.

I have a Bosch 1617EVS.

>>1181932
they use aluminum pins for those so it snaps if you bind up the head under power, like on a metal lathe if the carriage crashes into the chuck it snaps the aluminum pin instead of trying to drive it into the chuck more

>>1181938
woops, disregard post about aluminum pin snapping, wrong part

>>1182093
If you have a point of reference to drill a hole or something you can use that index to space them say 90 degrees part.

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>>1184050
Routers are fun, used one with a Masonite jig to cut some rounds out of plywood today.. have an old sears craftsman router with the stainless steel body that I picked up for $30 with the table it attached too... just watch your fingers... router bits don't leave much that can be reconnected when put your fingers in one...

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>>1184478
Finished round... wife wants two one 2 foot in diameter and one about 16 with a pole holding the one above the other. She's gonna spray paint it and use it for a wedding shower as a cupcake display... really wish I had a lathe to turn the center pole but alas not yet... debated using the fence on the router table and a cove bit along with a round over to roll a 2 inch diameter dowel against to fake "turn" a post... but by the time it's done I can just buy a 12 inch section of preformed table leg at lowes for like 6 bucks and cut it to fit.. if I had the cove bit I'd try it but I'd have to shell out for one so it's a no go at the moment :(

>>1184090
I'd agree with the bits in sets comment for stuff you want to keep... but buying a cheap harbor freight bit set to fuck around with and learn some tricks with isn't a half bad idea... at very least you'll learn not to feed to fast...

>>1184482
*16 inches... for the second round

>>1184487
So let me get this clear, you are mounting it on the center with a screw/pin, then rotating it around into the router to cut it round?

>>1184746
You can do the same thing with a table saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_U8IqIAOj3E

>>1184746
Yes

>>1184746
True but you cut more material rotating against a saw blade than a router bit (provided you use a 1/4 inch bit)

Originally was gonna try this with the radial armsaw but figured the router would be easier

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>>1184780
>Originally was gonna try this with the radial armsaw but figured the router would be easier
If only they made it so you could use a radial arm saw as a router/shaper? Well, good news! They did!

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>>1184822
How about turning your radial arm saw into a lathe? DeWalt has you covered.

>>1184822
Yeah I've seen the dewalt kits, any chance you know if they fit the craftsman radials? Got the one I have as a Christmas gift from my inlaws so Im not likely to trade it for one of the old dewalts... even seen that jigsaw attatchment dewalt had..

>>1184823
Jesus Christ that's cool.

It's like a fucking shopsmith just not hella gay...

>>1184827
Its looks just as hacky and gimmicky as a shopsmith

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>>1184826
Sears made one for their saws. Delta also made one too. I doubt they fit each other's saws, though. Picture related is on eBay right now for $8. Molding and Dado Guard Part# 29524. I found a manual for an 113. series radial arm saw that specifically mentions it. So, it can probably be used on most 113. series radial arm saw. What is the model number for your saw? I will look around and see if I can find the part number for the correct guard.

>>1184827
I knew a guy that had next to zero shop space. He had a Shopsmith and a Rockwell/Delta radial arm saw (both on wheels no less) and he literally could do any operation in a shop. The problem you have is it takes a while to switch between modes, which is a huge pain in the ass. Me? I just bought extra everything used for cheap. Craig's List rocks.

>>1184482
>>1184478
Finished cupcake holder.. wife is gonna paint it white then put burlap on it because apparently that's a thing for weddings for people in their 20's? The woodworking part was fun.

>>1184881
113.199250 is the model# for my saw. Looked up the manual when I got it but admitted didn't look into available attachments all that much... I very much appreciate any advice. I grew up with access to my dads well stocked full size workshop and eventually when I get a house with a decent sized garage I can start moving it up here since he says he's done with it... till then I get to get creative with a radial armsaw and various small tools.. nothing like ripping on a radial armsaw to make you miss a 220v wired tablesaw...

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>>1184907
Forgot the pic

>>1184907
The molding head in my picture in >>1184881 is the one for your saw. It is a 7 inch head. They also made an 8 inch head part number 29524. Page 34 of your manual has an accessories part list.

Your saw dates from the mid 80's. Sadly, not a good time for Craftsman shop tools or American made consumer grade tools in general. It was the tail end of them sourcing their shop tools from firms in the USA. So it was right when the cost cutting was at its highest. Soon after they switch to factories in Taiwan and the quality went up slightly before inching downward again..

>>1184917
Thx
I knew the saw was mid 80s, but as a gift from my inlaws I can't complain. Going through the entire squaring off process with it helped a lot.

>>1184090
Out of curiosity I checked my stainless case craftsman router, model # is 315.25031. Interestingly the tag on it says it's rated for 1 hp of output Not simply labeled a 1 hp motor... oddly I've run into kitchen aid mixers with that particular marketing trick... their Costco models are all marketed with a 1 hp motor but the drive circuitry won't give you anywhere near that as actual output at the beaters.... fwiw the router rips along very well for its age, if I tried forcing stuff through it I deffinitely think I'd start killing bits before it started bogging down.

>>1184050

Nobody has mentioned it yet so I'll chip in that you want to make sure it has a 1/2" collet, those wider bits are more stable than the 1/4" ones that smaller routers and trim routers use. I think all new, regular size routers in the ~$200 range will take both size bits, so it's just something to be aware of when looking at older used ones.

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>>1184925
>315.25031
Yup, that is an old Diehl. Mid 1960's from what I can tell. The 'Developed Horsepower' deal is marketing. It will hit 1 HP right before you stall it. It is probably a 3/4th HP. Maybe a 7/8th HP. Motors from that era seem to have more balls than modern motors anyway.

>stainless case
Looks like polished aluminum to me. Put a strong magnet on a part of the case that the motor isn't under and see if it sticks. Even if it is stainless you should be able to feel a bit of pull from the magnet. If it is aluminum you won't feel anything (unless there is something magnetic behind the aluminum).

douba bump

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Got a few question for anyone who has turned pens before.

How tight should the hole for the brass tube be? the tube that came with my kits is 6.8mm but the hole drilled is 7mm giving it 0.2mm of a gap and has lots of wobble.

The kit did say to use a 7mm drill but still.

Also, i picked up a CA finish kit and was wondering if i can use that to glue the brass tube into my blank, if i need a CA glue kit or would be better off getting some gorilla glue or something which would expand a little bit to fill that gap.

fairly new to wood turning in general. my grandpa just up and gave me his old lathe and everything he had for it one day so im looking to do some easy projects to start with (like making some pens as a thank you gift for him)

>>1187129
Since you're a beginner, just get some 7mm tubes. When you use the drill, the tubes shouldn't have any room to move around in, given that they're the same size. Stick to the glue you're already using, gorilla glue just makes a mess and is sort of unecessary.

I hope you know what you're doing on the lathe, you don't want a chunk of wood flying into your eye at 1600rpm.

>>1187150

I have made some simple things on it before. and i use a face shield and safety glasses.

the issue is the rest of the pen kits need the tube they came with for proper fitting. i can just change out the tube.

>>1187129
Salt and pepper shakers are pretty easy to make.. if you have nerdy as fuck friends make them some Harry Potter style wands.. great excuse to try different turning techniques without needing a shitload of wood...

>>1184908
It might be a dumb question but how do you get the faces of your "poles" to be perfectly straight and of the same width ?

>>1187854
I cheated. I don't have any way at present to turn those so I found premade table legs at lowes. Bought them and cut them to length. I suspect they are probably milled with some kind of purpose built machinery...

The longer one was like 6$ the shorter like 3$.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Waddell-Pine-End-Table-Leg-Actual-0-125-in-x-14-in/3041996

Cut them to length on a radial arm saw.

>>1187868
If I had to try and make it myself though I'd start with. 2x2x24 board, rip the long corners off to get it octagonal, then cut out the profile on 2 Masonite sheets, screw the sheets on either side of the post at the very end, then use a router bit with an upper and lower guide bearing.. the bearings would allow you to cut a flat profile, then unscrew the Masonite guides, rotate the board 1/8th a turn and put the guides on the next face, cut that, then repeat the process for all the other faces.. after they're milled then cut the ends off that you've been screwing the boards into leaving you with the milled center..

I kinda want to try it now but I don't have a router bit I could use for that..