Extract LED die

I'm interested to hear why you are doing this.

Dental drill

>>1180579
Why? Do you still want them to be usable?

>>1180579
An acetone soak should do it. Don't expect it to work afterwards, with the phosphors in the lens gone all you'll be getting is blue UV.

>>1180601
>>1180644

I want to use them as batons in a watch dial and the traditional LED packaging is too bulky and too unsightly.

>>1180677
Not a problem, I'll coat them in super luminova or some other kind of glow in the dark phosphor.

>>1180786
https://www.digikey.com/en/product-highlight/s/sunled/nanopoint-0201-series-leds

File: FB_IMG_1446663577314.jpg (41KB, 720x400px) Image search: [Google]

41KB, 720x400px

>>1180786
This is so dumb. It's like me saying "how do I strip the body off of an airplane, reduce its size, and keep the blade to the output? I'll be using it to cut the grass in my front yard."

There is no way you will be able to remove the chip from an led and still make it usable. The bezel not only adds protection, a lens, the phosphorus coating, and makes it big enough to work with, but it also does things like stabilize the heat and protect it from shorting.

Just use an led that is already the right size (like buying a lawn mower instead of an airplane). For example,

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-semiconductor-opto-division/VLMW1500-GS08/VLMW1500-GS08CT-ND/3504672

It's about 1mm x 0.5mm x 0.35mm, and they are around $0.50 each. You're going to have a hard enough time soldering one of these, but there is literally no way you would be able to solder the die from another led to anything.

You're welcome.

>>1180817
Even better. Although the 0402 that I was reccomending may possibly be soldered with an iron, the 0201 here will definitely have to be reflowed.

>>1180820
>>1180786
OP, look at this chart. http://smtsharing.blogspot.com/2012/08/smd-and-component-package.html Here's what is available in terms of standard package sizes. make a mockup in MS Paint and choose the largest package that you can. I'm IPC Class 3 certified, and a 1206 is about as small as I'd want to hand assemble without magnification. I've hand placed and soldered 0201 resistor packages with a microscope, and it sucks hard.

>I want to use them as batons in a watch dial

Or, consider using an LED package you can work with and using an overlay to mask the light down to the size and shape you want.

>>1180819
You don't know what you are talking about. I used to work for a lighting manufacturer and our suppliers actually offered bare dies in flip chip packaging for use in pick and place machines. I've also seen plenty of damaged LED's where the die crystal was exposed completely, it glows a brilliant purplish blue without any problems.

If I could ring up nichia and place an order for bare dies without getting 5000ct tape reels, I would.

Also why would I try to solder the die? It just needs some kind of conductive adhesive to hold it down. For my application resistance doesn't really matter as long as I can get all of them to glow evenly.

>>1180858
>selling bare led dies
Those are for COB designs

>seen plenty of broken ones shine brightly
Why don't you just break the ones that you have then. They should work perfectly for you apparently

>I can just use conductive adhesive
Good luck. Hope you have a stencil.

>>1180879
>why don't you just break the ones that you have
I have done and tested this already. Obviously I need flawless specimens so some method of dissolving the plastic is needed.

>hope you have a stencil

That's the plan obviously. A pad printing setup might work. Watch making isn't some retard tier /diy/ nonsense like "how can I make a nuclear reactor".

>>1180908
>a pad printing setup might work
So you plan on dissolving the leds, but you're still expecting them to have working pads that aren't bent or distorted and still have the original spacing?

>obviously, a flawless specimen is required
That's why we're saying don't break them. You really think that an led that starts in a 1206 package, has the plastic grossly melted away, probably has a broken bonding wire, roughly glued in to place, with no lens, and has phosphorus painted all over the electrical connections is a *flawless* specimen?

Watch making isn't retarded, but you obviously are. Why aren't you using a single, flawlessly intact led with a light pipe again?

>>1180931
I expect the bond wire pads to still be intact. Pad printing is when you squeegee an ink over an etched plate and then use a silicone pad to press and transfer the ink to the watch dial. Replace ink with conductive adhesive and carefully place the LED die's with some locating method on top. Assuming that the die is transparent underneath and the bond wire pads can be used in a flip chip type mount. Lots of problems to be worked out, but the first step is freeing the LED die.

>why aren't you using LED with a light pipe
Because it wont achieve the look and feel that I need in a mechanical watch. If you aren't into watches then you won't understand why it's stupid to just use whole SMD LED's. Although that might be something I'll try just for fun.

>>1180952
Sounds like you have your mind made up.

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