Vinyl plank flooring?

I don't have the wood grain stuff, but I put down a stone-look LVT in my kitchen and it's awesome. It goes down like tile, and it's been extremely durable with 7 kids in the house.

The stuff I got was pretty damn thick, too. I think it's going to hold up really well.

>>1179082
Was yours the peel and stick kind, or did it require additional adhesives? What did you install it over? I'm trying to decide if I want to go through the hassle of removing the old vinyl tiles, or just install them over the existing floor. The floor that's on there now doesn't seem to be peeling up or anything, so maybe it's a solid enough base.

>>1179086
I took up some shitty plank stuff that was in there from the 70's, probably. I did go ahead and replace the subfloor when I took it up, but what was there was too uneven.

The stuff I used is glue down. You put the glue, wait 10-15 minutes for it to get tacky, then set the tile. I was able to go back over it after I was all done and grout it, too, which probably doesn't matter to you since you're doing the wood look.

The peel and stick stuff is awful. Don't waste your money. If you really need to do it on a budget, and the LVP/LVT stuff is out of your range, I'd seriously look at rolled vinyl. Depending on the size you have to do, a lot of carpet stores may have a remnant of something pretty damn nice that will suit what you need. A lot of the more modern rolled vinyl has a ton of texture and everything in it, too. It's infinitely better than the peel and stick.

>>1179093
I'm honestly not sure if the stuck I was looking at the other day was peel and stick, or glue down. They looked pretty high quality, and has a tongue and groove on the edges, and was pretty thick. I'll go back and give it another look to be sure what it was. Even if it were peel and stick, couldn't you still use your own adhesive to secure it? I'm mainly considering it, because it was at a contractor surplus store, and was only $1/sq ft. The stuff normally goes for $2.50-$3.50/sq ft.

>>1179096
You could, I guess, but it's not generally the adhesive that's going to let you down on the peel and stick stuff, it's the thin, throwaway construction that's going to look like ass with any wear and tear.

But I think if it's a tongue and grove, I really doubt it's the peel and stick. At least in my experience, I've never seen both featured together.

Best advice is that if it feels cheap, it probably is.

I know my parents installed 2 types of vinyl wood flooring when they renovated a few years ago, I'll ask them later today if the threads still up

>>1179098
>>1179099
Well, it wasn't exactly a tongue and groove, but more of a click together type, which from what I'm seeing online would probably be a floating type floor, not a peel and stick. It was probably 1/4" thick, if I recall, and didn't feel cheap or flimsy. It'll probably be okay. Now I just have to see if they have enough of the style I want to do 2 large rooms. Like I said, it was a contractors surplus store, so they had limited stock. But at $1/sq ft, I can't see how I could go wrong.

Thanks

>>1179072
I've removed it before, and the adhesive used is tough as hell. I've also put in hardwood and tile. From what I've seen, these are easier than tile you have to grout, but not easier than engineered wood, or wood tiles. Is this going someplace that's going to get really damp?

>>1179118
Also, yes I know you said kitchen, but but not everyone pours water on the floor.

>>1179096
You're describing click & lock LVT, which is a floating installation. No glue. Most of it is pretty solid product, durability-wise. Installation is ridiculously easy, since most of it cuts with a utility knife (score and snap).

Just take your time to make sure the engineered joints are fit together properly and it'll last a long time. DO NOT use underlayment, and make sure your subfloor is flat, level, and sturdy.

I did two hallways, a bathroom, kitchen and laundry room with vinyl floor from home depot that looks similar to ops pic but it has adhesive tounges that went under the next piece. It went down really quickly once i got started, but it still looks like vinyl floor.

File: FB_IMG_1495118532016.jpg (26KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

26KB, 800x600px

>>1179163
Pic related

I was asked to float a vinyl click and lock floor from menards for a dining room, I think it took a couple of months before a separation happened between rows.

I'd suggest finding a way to hammer the stuff together, it's much more fragile than the 13mm laminate flooring I had previously installed.

>>1179118

Just typical kitchen water issues. The occasional spill and drips. It's also going in the living room to tie the two rooms together, and may experience the occasional dog "spill".

>>1179131

So, install it directly over the wood subfloor? My subfloors are fairly good, but I will be doing a second 1/2" layer over the existing 3/4". The original subfloor has some minor issues that I don't feel like spending tons of time patching and repairing, so I'll just get it flat and put the new wood over it and be done with it.

Thanks for the input and help, guys.

>>1179262
1/4" inch particle underpayment is a thing.

Make sure to grind/sand down the seams of the subfloor and if you do put down underlayment make sure its perpendicular to the old sub floor. And narrow crown staple the shit out of it. Don't glue it down it. It can occasionally can to soak up into the finished floor. And you'll notice discoloration in the floor where the glue is.

>>1179072
If you've got some tools, you can get a competitively priced wood floor, by cutting your own out of plywood. http://www.ibuildit.ca/other%20projects/Home%20Improvement/more-plywood-floor.html

remember to use a real building supplier, or at least ask about bulk discounts.

Minimal would be a router and some bits to make the tongue and groove, and a circular saw with a fence to cut even width planks.

Vinyl is very tough, but I'm not a huge fan because it's still 'colder' than wood, plus it tends to be too smooth so you slide on it.