Repairing a LED/LCD TV

The blinking light is usually an error code. Try to find the error codes for Waltham TVs and it'll lead you in the right direction. If the TV is more than a two-three years old, it's unlikely you'll find spare parts except from a donor TV. If the error code indicates a failed screen, it's not worth trying to fix, as panels often cost as much, or more than the cost of replacing the TV itself.

>>1177663
Alright thanks I'll look into this.

>>1177650

I would recommend buying a simple multimeter with AC and DC voltmeter settings, as well as a ohmmeter setting.

I would start by looking at the yellow board on the right in the picture. I would check capacitors on the board to see if they hold voltage when power is supplied. Also for the electrolytic ones, I would check resistance. Remember polarity for these kind of caps. Red to +, black to -. If the resistance isn't increasing slowly, especially for the electrolytic caps, I would replace the cap.

I had a similar problem with my LED TV recently. If I'm right here your tv isn't leaving its standby voltage due to a component failure on the power board. Luckily, this kind of problem is an easier one to fix.

If you can find a model number or serial number on the power board, then you can find a schematic for it. Now I'm thinking your specific component that failed might be a polypropylene film capacitor at the top center of the board. It's one of the blueish-gray rectangular components next to what appears to be a transformer of some sort (coil of wire that is exposed). I would go ahead and disconnect the power from the board and let these caps discharge for awhile before you do anything though. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MEASURE/IDENTIFY circuit problems with power connected. Especially with problems specific to the power board. If you have to measure potential (voltage) across any capacitor, LET THE POWER CHARGE THE CAP AND THEN DISCONNECT POWER CABLE QUICKLY.

I'll see if I can find any schematic for this board. Godspeed fellow /diy/ brother.

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>>1177736

Here's the parts I would check.

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Mini-hijack: what is this resistor? I mean, the purpose is pretty obvious, but:
1. What color is the second ring from the left supposed to be?
2. What is the value of that resistor? 4.7M?
3. What is it called? "Safety rated resistor" etc. didn't produce any useful results.

>>1177769
>Waltham WLHD32D17B
Just look it up
http://www.wiringdiagrammanual.com/e/action/ListInfo/?classid=313

>>1177736
>>1177746
Wow thanks for the answer.
I actually put the rear cover back so I'll have to open it again later but I'll buy a multimeter first to check these components.
I'll report back when I'm ready to do the tests.

>>1177775

I ain't clickin on no ads nigga

>>1177778

Keep in mind these capacitors may be rated for high voltage. The one I replaced was 630v. Also, forgot to add this. I would buy a multimeter with a capacitance setting. Using this setting is alot easier to find bad capacitors in circuit.

However, if you do decide to go with a basic multimeter, i.e. one with only voltmeter, ohmeter, ammeter, etc. You may not be able to use a resistance test of the capacitor, as it will be so small and not register.

From Quora:

>Since the range of capacitors you might commonly encounter is 10 pf to 1000 uF that's 14 orders of magnitude so with small values you won't see the ramp and large values the ramp will be very long...
Values around .1 to 1 uF you can readily see

The cap i replaced on my board was .018 uF, so the resistance test for this capacitor didn't register (too small) on my basic multimeter. I had to use one with a capacitance setting to check the capacitance.

Anyways, do some research. Buy a good multimeter with all the functions. You may not need them now, but they will come in handy.

im sure 80% of the problem is a bad capacitor... they are known to be the #1 failure in any LCD tv or monitor that was build with cheap ass electrolytic capacitors,