Help with rewiring

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OP here.

Here is a picture of the wire colouring for the 3 prong cable. Green/yellow=ground, blue=neutral, brown=live.

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And here is a picture of the wire colouring for the nema 14-30 cable.

I tried to simply find an adapter but I had no luck after searching for over a week both online and around my city. If someone has a better solution or can help me out with the wiring it would be much appreciated.

Red to brown, black to blue, green to green, white all wrapped up in electrical tape and safely deadended.

I think your confusion here is that you are assuming you need the neutral (white) wire, and according to the ultra-reliable and easily understood chinese wiring diagram you probably don't.

>>1166895
thanks for the help. yep I thought the conversion was:

green/yellow (ground) to green (ground)
blue (neutral) to white (neutral)
brown (live) to black (live)

and I assumed that the red live was either unneeded or was too be combined with the black live.

I'm curious though, what would happen if I did wire red and black together to the same lug. is the result excess heat resulting in a fire hazard? And what is there no need for a neutral wire in the new configuration?

>>1166897
>what would happen if I did wire red and black together to the same lug

You wouldn't have enough power to use the autoclave, and probably energize the neutral.
Just a big waste of electricity.

>>1166890
Just as a curiosity why are there four wires? Is it two different phases for the live wires? What kind of voltage are you operating on?

If it is multiple phases then you can't connect them. Bad Things Happen.

>>1167207
>Just as a curiosity why are there four wires?

two wires are LINE or 'hot' ie:120vac out of phase with each other. (black and red)
one wire is NEUTRAL which is at earth ground supplied by the power company (white)
one wire is equipment ground which is connected to a ground rod system supplied by the home owner

>>1167396
>one wire is equipment ground
(green)

>what would happen if I did wire red and black together to the same lug

You're shorting both legs of your 240V supply so you'll get a nice little boom and spark show when you plug it in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYL37MZ113Q

>>1166897
What the other guy said about putting black and red together.

As for the neutral or lack thereof, if it's just a resistive heating load like an oven/autoclave, you don't usually neutral unless there are other electronics involved. If the autoclave had a little panel with some setting and shit or maybe a fan with a little motor to start, then you'd probably need the neutral. But since it wasn't on the diagram you should probably pay attention to that fact next time.

>>1167422
the autoclave does have a pcb that controls a timer and safety sensor for when the water level drops too low, causing it to power off automatically. does mean I do need the neutral then? sorry if this should be basic knowledge, this is the first time I've ever tried to do anything with wiring/electronics myself and I thought this would be good chance to start learning.

>>1167434
Ya know, I gotta admit I don't have a clue. Maybe you should post some more pix or some shit.

Just looking at the diagram, I see it says L, N and G. As in, Line, Neutral and Ground.

Which is odd because in my experience neutrals are never switched, let alone fused. That combined with the 220vac tag between the L&N just made me assume there was no neutral when I first glanced at the diagram cause that's typical of any 220v thing, both legs would be switched and fused.

So anyways beats the fuck out of me, I'd just go with the theory that it's 220v no neutral, wire it up and see what blows, then probably make those cool crystals out of bleach and ammonia because that's what you get when you ask for advice on an anonymous Tajikistani wheelwrighting forum.

>>1167434
It might derive its control voltage from the 240V line or it may be using 120V and is treating the ground as a neutral path for that purpose. Given that it came from Chinaland usage I'd go with the latter because its cheaper manufacturing. This is also how old dryers are wired; 2 hots, no neutral, any 120V return current on the ground. It's not "safe" by modern standards but it will still work without the neutral. Just unplug it when not in use and keep away from spilled liquids and other conductive surfaces.

>>1167434

if your autoclave was a purely linear load (heater, motor) the neutral wouldn't be necessary, but the second you add in non-linear loads such as circuitry you'll need a neutral to return any unbalanced current.

Do not send unbalanced current back on your ground, the ground that is probably bonded to your water pipe. You could shock someone, at worst electrocute someone. I'll study your diagram tomorrow and report back.

>>1167442
>This is also how old dryers are wired; 2 hots, no neutral, any 120V return current on the ground. It's not "safe" by modern standards but it will still work without the neutral.
This is interesting. It completely differs from a 3~ system where all the current is supplied with the three live wires. Ground is ground. Neutral can be somehow created in the machine from the three phases. So you can have four cables, three live and ground and still have a standard schuko on nthe front panel with live, ground and neutral even is there is no neutral input. Electricity is magic...