Bandsaw thread!

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Upon opening it up I found the guide bearings are disgusting but still spin OK but apparently modified (pressed on?)

OD is 30 mm and ID is 20 mm. Need to find new ones somewhere if anyone has a clue how to unfuck these.

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Another pic of the guide.

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Clearly I expected the tires to be fucked as everything else looked ancient and untouched for about 50 years.
When I opened it up the upper tire came off easily (rubber) where upon closer examination of the lower tire someone had put what looks to be roofing tar or some shit on it as a makesift bandsaw tire. FFS

I already bought new ones online (just arrived last night) so it's time to unfuck this.

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I greased it with CRC-36 and took a chisel to it. Seemed to soften it up a bit. I found out soon I had to be more ginger with it as I was unaware it is apparently made of aluminum or magnesium or something as the chisel can carve it like butter and it's not attracted to a magnet.

You can sorta see I scored it a bit on the right but was more careful later.

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Done after some more lube and steel wool.

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Here's it re-mounted. I noticed a little port on the axle where grease can be squirted in. Anyone have a clue what to lube it up with here? Red arrow for reference.

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Anyway that's it for now. I've never owned a band saw so other than making me RTFM anyone have any protips for tensioning the blade properly when I mount new tires later today? Here's how you pivot and tension this one with my potato thumb

>>1166151
>>1166152
>>1166154
>>1166156
>>1166160
>>1166162
>>1166168
RELEASE THE SCHMOO

First thing's first, watch videos on bandsaw anatomy to get your knob adjustment game up, and how to adjust the blade guides which are fucking essential (if you don't know these things already). A shitty job setting the guides will either give a blade 1/100th of its full lifespan, or make cutting a bitch and a half in general.

Basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQqq3rAZ4PI
Protips: https://youtu.be/gA4lpsEWM5k

>>1166150

For that deck, I'd suggest getting some Safestrustremover.

If you can remove it and place it in a tub the stuff will clean that rust off in a couple hours with no work on your end beyond putting it in, taking it out and oiling it afterwords.


As for the rest of it, looks damn good.

I can't say what grease to use for the axle bearing, but probably any low temp grease will work fine

>>1166150
Good find. I have an old Walker-Turner bandsaw myself. The previous owner also tried to convert it to metal cutting by putting a step pulley on it. He kept using the same 1/3 HP motor though, so it was a bust. At least I got it cheap afterwards though.

>>1166178
The rust on the table doesn't look too bad. OP can probably just use oil and steel wool to clean that up.

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>>1166200
>>1166178
>>1166176

Interesting, will monitor this thread. I cleaned up the deck already with CRC and steel wool. If anyone is still around later I'll post updated pics when I put the new tires on.
I'd normally disassemble it and do as you suggest with rust remover but the guts and frame look clean otherwise just dirty as fuck.

Someone at some point took off the upper wheel cover and sanded and clear coated it for some reason.

I'm still wondering about how to fix those bearings as I don't have a press but I suppose I could squash them in the vise. They turn OK so I may just leave them alone thou.

Here's the motor it came with. It still works but is a bit noisy when I turn it. I don't think it's original but probably from the same era as it's an old Sears'ey brand.

I'm thinking about upgrading it from 1/3 hp and/or opening it up to clean out the goo but I'll take any advise first. Seems to run fine though. The belt also is a bit tattered but otherwise OK.

Any cleaning tips for these old motors?

>>1166176

Also, I'll watch these vids before I fuck up the blade. Won't be able till this evening though, thanks!

>>1166150
Do u still want to cut metal with it? Wood and metal bandsaws run at different speeds. You will need to slow it down for metal cuttting or wreck the blade.

>>1166216
Dunlap was a tool brand used by Sears starting in 1941. Craftsman was their top brand and Dunlap was used for their cheaper options. Their modern equivalent is the "Evolv" brand. Tools were often sold without motors. Many crafty types or businesses have spare motors from previous tools or other sources. It is not uncommon to find old tools using motors pulled from old washing machines and such. As Sears also sold motors by themselves it is likely a replacement. It was their cheapest 1/3th HP motor. You will probably want to upgrade to a 1/2 HP motor but I wouldn't go higher than that.

Your machine is an Atlas 912 12 inch band saw. They appear to have been made in the 50's and early 60's. For more info visit http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=51&tab=0

>Any cleaning tips for these old motors?
Yes. Don't. Only three things on those old motors need servicing: bearings, insulated wires, and capacitors.

If the bearings have an open race, clean them and regrease them. If they don't, replace them. They are not expensive and are standardized parts.

If the wires are frayed and the insulation is shot, replace them. If not, they are fine.

If the motor starts, the capacitor is good. That is its one job. It is a brick mounted under the base of the motor. If it fails, replace it. Again, it is a standardized part

Other than blowing the dust out every now and again that is all you should mess with. If you short the windings or something like that the motor will require a very expensive repair job. For a small motor like that, that often turn up used on CL for under $50, you could be looking at a $200+ rewinding job if you damage something.

>>1166248

Nope, only wood for now

>>1166251

Thanks for the tips. I'll try not to mess with it the motor. I figured from the original specs (cutting capacity of ~ 6 1/2" or so?) the motor seemed underpowered but I hear comparing old to modern motors is apples to oranges. Anywhere else you suggest I get a 1/2 hp old or modern equivalent other than CL if I can't find one? Any other specifics in regards to motor specs I should look out for? Should I stay <= 1/2 hp as they typically spin at band saw friendly speeds (1700 RPM)?

>>1166263
1/3 HP was the smaller recommended rating. 1/2 HP was the larger recommended rating. You can use larger but it won't help with anything. If something was causing a half HP motor to not do the job then you were probably pushing the limits of what it is safe for the saw to handle anyway.

>Anywhere else you suggest I get a 1/2 hp old or modern equivalent other than CL if I can't find one?
Check your area for a place that sells motors. Industrial supply places also carry them (Grainger, etc). You can also sometimes get a deal on eBay. Be ready for a shock. New motors are generally $100+ dollars new unless you get some garbage Asian stuff that lies about its power output. I always buy used and just do a quick service on them.

>they typically spin at band saw friendly speeds
Most power tool motors spin at 1725 RPM (give or take a bit) or 3450 RPM. For you European types take 1/6th the RPM off because you only run at 50 Hz instead of 60 Hz. They would then use pulleys or step pulleys to get you the real speed you needed. Your saw is made for a blade cutting speed of about 2,000 RPM. If you get a different speed motor all you would need to do is change the pulley arrangement to get the correct output speed.

>>1166263
had to replace the motor on my tablesaw, went through this, couldn't believe how expensive a 1HP was NEW. even from horrible freight.. then months later, I stumbled upon this website googling SOMETHING. couldn't believe why google didn't give it to me when I looked for a motor originally! ended up with a 1.5HP for I think around 220 dollars plus the 34 dollar shipping cost. [yeah shipping aint free, or cheap] but still for a BRAND new motor, 254 dollars was a STEAL. considering EBAY was asking 250 dollars on old as shit USED motors.

anyway, here's what ur looking for OP, hopefully it saves you the trouble. Try to get a TEFC rated motor, basically means the whole things enclosed, this is good for when subjected to any kind of dust. I also believe TEFC means it can be serviced IE: you can open it up and replace the bearings pretty easy.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/AC-Motors/AC-Motors-Base-Mount/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_Motors_HP:1/2

>>1166513
I posted the wrong link, sorry. here is the right one. its the cheapest and what you're looking for, I also bought a Lincoln motor for my tablesaw and it seems built pretty damn good.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/AC-Motors/AC-Motors-Base-Mount/1-2-HP-3450-RPM-115-230-VAC-MOTOR-LINCOLN-MOTORS-LM24706-SRF2S1T1C6028-10-3005.axd

>>1166516
That motor is too fast for his saw. It is a 3450 RPM. A 1725 RPM is what he needs.

Good find though. While they aren't any cheaper than what I can get locally for new motors I'm sure others could use them. Not every place has a ready supply of motors on the used market.

>>1166523
The bandsaw has no pulley? Just do a 1 to 3.5 pulley. And those big wheels to that little motors shaft I'm sure drops the RPM at the blade pretty good.

>>1166150
nice
hey OP, paint it pink and call it "Dickcutter"(writen on the case) for the lulz

So unrelated question. I picked up a shitty 3 wheel used bandsaw a while ago and have been struggling with getting the blade to track properly. took it apart, took the wheels off, took the table off and cleaned everything. Reapplied grease to the bushings of the wheels (yes, bushings, not bearings).
figured out that bushings are too worn, cleaning out the grime and putting in new grease removed what was keeping the bushing barely tight enough, now blade falls off the drive wheel even if I track it all the way back on the top. It's a Central Machinery (harbor freight) 12" 3 wheel, the green one.
I'm debating whether to salvage it for the motor and speed controller etc., whether to see if I can find brass bushings in the right size (as far as I can tell it's 13.5mm or 17/32" shafts), or get bearings in a close size and shim to fit.
Also whether I should even try to drill/press out and mount new bushings/bearings on the plastic wheels, or if I should just make plywood wheels a la mattias.

>>1166842
Three wheel bandsaws generally suck. Harbor Freight tools generally suck. I would salvage what you (motor, guides, etc) can and make a new 2 wheel band saw from scratch.

Or see if a decent one turns up on CL in your price range. I got an old Craftsman 2 wheel band saw from the 50's for $30 when I was starting out. It is only a 10 inch (IE super tiny) but it cuts well.

>>1166883
Honestly, I just did the same last weekend. well, somewhere between 80's and 2000's I'd guess. also a 10 inch, which is kind of nice in retrospect, because I'm coming off a shoulder injury and there's no way I would have been able to move the 14 inch that I was too late to buy at the same estate sale.
Was more like $80 though. Nothing in my area in my budget unless I'm willing to drive 2 hrs or settle for another 3 wheeler. Or an old B&D "drill powered" 7" bandsaw, although there's one of those listed with a motor permanently attached.
On the plus side it came with a half dozen extra blades. On the minus side apparently those were blades for the 14" because they're too big lol.
It just would have been nice to fix it enough to resell, and/or have one that was easy to move.

Motor is way underpowered for a big size 2 wheel... actually scratch that. It's a 3/4hp per the manual. I guess they got a great deal and it was cheaper to use a bigger motor to power through bushing friction than to use bearings.
Well, or it lies.
Any tips on affordable blades? 70.5" is apparently an unusual size :/

>>1166911
>It's a 3/4hp per the manual.
I have never seen a Harbor Freight motor that was anywhere near its rated horsepower. A friend of my has an old shop vac from that that claims to have a 5 horsepower motor and yet only pulls 8 amps on 110 volts. I guess they forgot the decimal or something.