Want to build a raised deck in my backyard with pallet wood.

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>>1164832
>putting hardwood over linoleum tile

It's shit wood breh

>>1164832
>pallet wood floor
>wood over linoleum tile
>no router ever touched the wood
>liquid nails

[image of 'projectile vomit' removed at request of viewers]

>>1164832
Don't do it, it'll look like shit.

OP here. lets pretend i'm broke, bored, and tired of looking at shit backyard

>>1164845
Do you know how weak that shit is once it "becomes" free? bugs and shit will love that yummy wood. Pallets are made of junk wood. If you really want a herringbone deck, get some better wood. You do realize how much labor you're going to put into something that will not last? You have to think about how much your time is worth. Do you value your time so little that you would waste it on what could be a great design? You would save money eventually by acquiring decent wood and building it once instead of wasting precious time rebuilding it often. Time that could be used to get a financial gain.

>>1164845
>and tired of looking at shit backyard
stop looking at it instead of making it worse you doofus.

Do you want to keep repainting it every two years? With some expensive paint if it's going to stand up to foot traffic. Otherwise it will rot right quick.

>>1164845

Make a garden, plant veg and fruit, save money.

>>1164852
He can slowly transform it into a lawn. Dont be so negative :^)

>>1164852
>>1166132
Ok, a few points. IMO shitty HT rot resistant hardwood pallets are slightly better than PT pine. If it wasn't rot resistant they would not use if for pallets.
You are supposed to paint or seal a deck every 2-5 years regardless of what it is made of or it will rot.
A few bigger concerns:
You will have to sort through pallets. Most pallets that are free are, yes, total shit nearing the end of the service life, where 2/3 of the boards are on the verge of breaking and the last one
The slats are THIN, like 1/2" usually, and you will need to sand/plane/scrape to have a less splintery surface. It may be expensive in terms of time sharpening and money replacing blades that are dinged by hidden staples/grit/old nails from when 2 damaged pallets were broken apart and the least broken parts used to replace broken boards on other pallets.
Because the boards are thin, they need to be supported closer together than regular decking boards would be to not flex as you walk on them.
you should not always trust the HT on pallets, the service life is ~15-20 years on most, so theres no way to tell if they've gone to a 3rd world and sprayed with the really cheap dangerous stuff.

So, best advice is to look for custom built pallets that are built by the manufacturer and thrown away by the store. those you can trust when they have the HT on them.
Use regular 2x6 wood to connect them, just screw pallets between them, if they have overhanging slats that's even better. use a belt sander to level the warped boards of the pallets, it can be a coarse fast belt, you don't need it smooth just level.
cut apart other pallets with a circular saw to make the slats. just run the saw along the board on each side of the nails. it isn't the preferred way because you get 18"-2' boards instead of 40-48", but will work for your needs and is much MUCH easier and faster, plus you avoid having to dent tools on nailholes impregnated with rusty nail residue to eat your blades.

>>1166173

Heat treated pallet wood is heated to 56 degrees core temperature, this only sterilizes the wood ... it will still rot.

Plato wood this shit ain't. Not hard wood either.

>>1164838
I see no problem

>>1166173
Cont. Then hand plane them (because hand plane blades are easier to sharpen and cheaper)., then run through a thickness planer to make them coplanar and even thickness, then rip to width and cut to length, then drill countersunk screw holes in each board. then bartop epoxy the boards or perhaps use a spar varnish urethane.
then you can brad nail the pallet boards to your pallet "subfloor".
an option is to chamfer the ends of all the boards, which also gives you an easy way to toenail them all so that even if the nailheads pop later they have a ways to go before they're a serious foot stabbing/tripping hazard, ditto with boards lifting up.
remember to leave space between each row of boards to allow water to drain. a cheap way to do is to use a pair of pennies glued together as spacers. Allow for this when you figure out the herringbone layout and cut boards to size.
the standard is a 1/8" (0.125") gap, and pennies are 0.0598", so two plus a tiny bit for the glue between them is perfect.
I would also seal the pallet "subfloor" before you add the planks, to help prevent it from rotting. 90% of the wear on sealers is UV damage and mechanical wear, both of which will not affect the subfloor. you may want to use an oil based one for that, or a chemical cure when exposed to air one, to keep water from slowly dissolving it away after it's hardened.

You will have ants/wasp/rats nesting under your deck no matter what you do unless you leave a big enough air gap for bigger things to go in, eat them, and leave, or for you to go crawl under and spray nests.
Doing the floor subfloor thing you may have ants/termites building between the layers of wood, because water pooling between them will soften it, but hopefully sealing both sides will keep that from happening (which is why I said seal both subfloor pallets and planks before you install).

>>1164832
Why... if you want rustic looking get some reclaimed barn wood.

Pallet wood is thin, and shitty. Plus it is cheap pine or fir.

>>1166279
actually a lot of pallet wood is oak, or if its from other countries whatever is the abundant hardwood there. I have heard stories of mahogany pallets for imported furniture shipped in from Brazil etc.
A fair percentage of heavy pallets are oak or applewood here in the states, to not snap when heavy appliances are shipped on them.

>>1166472
Ive found pallets that shipped electrical cord. With the big beams underneath red oak. And the slats on top. Cherry!

>>1166220
i bet you'd suck dick for money. degenerate.

>>1166173
>If it wasn't rot resistant they would not use if for pallets.
Why not? Pallets area disposable thing. They're a stand to make the handling of a shipped item more convenient. They're a platform for cardboard boxes and are treated with the same degree of scrutiny as a cardboard box.

You are elevating a disposable product to a degree of engineering that it simply does not have. They are free because they're shit.

>>1166478
ask at hardwood floor suppliers, alot of times the manufacturers use whatever bits they have on hand, i've see pallets made of all kinds of woods, everything from shit pine to heavy mahogany

>>1166915
There are 2 types of pallets, ones you'll put hundreds to thousand of dollars of produce on and ones that you'll throw out with the box sitting on it.

I work at at a grocery store and all our stuff comes in on sturdy, painted pallet that all get sent back to the warehouse for reuse. I pretty sure they have a deposit on them too.
Vendors, like Coke can get away with shit wood because they know exactly what they put on them and what they'll go through.

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>>1167797
When I think of decent pallets I think of pic related
The crap ones almost always have broken boards already and are only usable for a few round trips inside a trailer. I wouldn't use those for anything.

>>1164832
Is that a cam shaft?

>>1166173
>>1166224

>IMO shitty HT rot resistant hardwood pallets are slightly better than PT pine

>Find pallets with this certain stamp that you cant always trust to be true, that are free/cheap but still in serviceable condition with no broken planks.

>Screw pallets together with 2X6's and other pallets to make a "subfloor" (Group of pallets screwed together on the ground), cut apart more nail and staple infested pallets to make deck boards.

>Hand plane all boards, (since we're going for the easy way here) run everything through a thickness planer, rip EVERYTHING to width, pre-drill counter sunk screw hole for EVERY screw in your new deck, epoxy coat or urethane EVERY LAST DECK BOARD (All 6 sides, and every pallet and board of your "subfloor" as well, and chamfer the ends of ALL THE BOARDS

>Brad nail the boards to the "subfloor" (Because all those pre-drilled countersunk screw holes are just for show) using a spacer to keep the boards approximately 0.1196" apart (Also, remember to glue two pennies together to make your spacer)

>Now that your deck is complete, stock up on rat poison and insect spray because now your deck will be over run by ants/wasps/rats nesting under your deck no matter what you do. You will also have termites and ants between the layers off wood feeding on the softened wood once water pools on it, but hopefully the gallons of bartop epoxy or varnish you put will slow them down.

10/10