Soap

>>1155458
Soaps are easy as fuck. Soapcalc.com is your handy dandy tool for lye calcs.

Lye is hardly the most dangerous thing you can handle. Just don't be a retard and hold the lye water over your face to see if its all dissolved or shit like that. Wearing PPE will put you well ahead of every single grandmother with dementia that still makes soap in her kitchen.

They say always add lye TO the water and not the reverse, but no one's ever documented a case of it supposedly going batshit crazy like its supposed to. Fuck Ive had bigger reactions that made me piss myself from adding baking soda to hot vinegar. Never ever add lye to hot water.

Body washes and liquid soaps are more difficult, require potassium hydroxide, and are much more involved than bar soap.

That being said I make a spray autobody cleaner for my brother's detailing business that he resells for exorbitant prices.

I'm a chemist and much prefer handling acids but sodium and potassium hydroxide aren't that nasty or hard to handle. You use sodium hydroxide for solid soap and potassium hydroxide for liquid ones, generally. You want good lab goggles and nitrile gloves with the slightly longer cuffs than the typical kind, maybe a plastic apron as well.

Wear clothes you don't mind damaging, lye drops don't leave an immediate spot on fabric but a hole will appear there when you wash them.

It's annoying to dissolve the pellets in water, you have to do it slowly (it makes a LOT of heat) and can't use glass containers (it etches glass), you want to only use polyethylene or polypropylene (HDPE or PP) plastic containers to dissolve it in. Usually I mix it outside for ventilation.

An immersion blender is really handy for actually reacting the oils and lye to speed up the process (it can take a LONG time). No real suggestions on what fats to use, there is a ton of info and opinions on that. I've used various mixes of olive oil (takes a while to cure compared to other oils), grapeseed oil. coconut oil (don't want too much of this in the soap or it messes with the feel of it, a little is great though), cocoa butter (too expensive to make into soap, I think) lard, and bear grease (basically similar to lard). It's pretty efficient, you get a lot of soap out of one batch, just takes a bit to make.

>>1155471
Right on man. Any advise for making my own car wash?

I havent made soad yet but i have made some candles and bought shit to make soap.

Having hell finding a good silicone mold. Probably gonna have to make it...

In some cases when you separate the soap from the gunk there is dissolved alcohol in the remains. It is not drinkable but can be used as anti freeze, just make sure there is no remaining lye.

I haven't used soap in a year now, it's great.

Soap is a meme.

>>1155458
If you use a bit extra oil than your calculation, and you mix very well its very easy to make soap

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Monitoring.

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>>1155507
my mum used to make soap, she always just used a wooden mould instead of silicone. just line it with wax paper before pouring and you can lift it out when set

pic related, just cut some wood into strips and nail/screw to a base. sand it before mounting to make demolding a bit easier. can make it whatever size/shape you want, i think ours made a soap loaf something like 4" x 2.5" x 2'. mounted a wire guillotine on it to slice the loaf into 1" thick bars while still a bit soft

Every craft or maker fair has hundreds of soap makers. What made so many of you faggots pop up over the last couple of years?

>>1156948

I got into it because my hero, Tyler Durden, was so good at it.

>>1155458
Lye is not that bad. It comes in solid form. You add it to water. It gets hot when you add it to water. The reason you don't do it the other way is because it will get much hotter and could splash on you. Have boric acid and a sink handy in case of emergencies. Rinse any contaminated body part for several minutes and add boric acid to neutralize the base

Wear gloves and goggles. Soaps are made with fats and a strong base. They don't react fast enough on their own so you need to add energy to it to make them react (heat).

To get the most soap I recommend refluxing your solution for about an hour or so.

If you don't have an organic chemistry set you can probably make a reflux setup by just googling how a reflux works.

After you reflux it and let it cool down you want to add an acid like HCl to make the soap come out of solution. It'll be vey basic so you need to drip acid until you reach about Ph of <4. You can even put it in an ice bath to get a little more soap out.

If you do this you'll get a very simple soap. If you wanted to add fragrances and color I'd recommend adding those things after the reflux. Bring the Ph to about 7, then add those fragrances and colors, then continue to bring the Ph down.

I personally haven't added fragrances to soaps but since most fragrances are esters, you don't want to add the fragrances until the refluxed solution has cooled.

If you add the acid to a hot solution that contains your fragrance you might destroy the fragrance molecules since esters tend to break apart in hot acids.

Set the soap that you made in to whatever mould you have and let it sit for a few days

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>>1157042
Ignore 97% of what this idiot is saying. Holy shit, this is way more dangerous your way than it would be doing it the standard, normal way.

Like...dude, are you serious? Hydrochloric acid?

If you knew anything about soap making, which you obviously don't, then you would know there is no need to "offset" the pH of the soap. Use a stick blender and gently mix in the lye water, and your soap will begin saponifying within a minute or two. By the time the soap hardens enough to de-mold, 99% of the lye will have been deactivated through saponification. That's why you wait 4-6 weeks to allow it to dry, harden, and cure. The rest of the lye will have saponified and be completely inactivated.

You add your fragrances while the soap is still in liquid form, but has already reached trace. Then you mold it quickly.

Holy shit, I am still marveling by how wrong you are.

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be patient. otherwise entire batch could gone bad.

I did a whole batch with 9 kg of sunflowerseed oil and it did come out quite ok. The amout was so big that I had to use paint mixer to stir. Why SFSO? Easy, I was working on an oil tanker ship and those sample oils were all mine to play with. Later on with a merely 1 kg of palm oil (again sample for the cargo being carried and clove oil(as a fragrance from the hospital of the ship no I didn't steal it it was an expired clove oil about 50 ml or so, I think it's being used to relieve toothache) Whatever in the process I just could wait the lye-water mixture to cooldown and as a result entire batch was gone to trash.

follow steps, don't rush. and take all the precautions.

>>1155471
>That being said I make a spray autobody cleaner for my brother's detailing business that he resells for exorbitant prices.
Recipe?