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What do!?!?

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Thread replies: 45
Thread images: 3

File: 20170320_114339.jpg (941KB, 2560x1440px) Image search: [Google]
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What do!?!?
>>
take breack disk off and drill out than, or buy new
>>
Mini Sledge and flat punch or air hammer if you can afford a large compressor
Pound them out then remove the spindle and pound new ones in
>>
>>1147969
remove caliper
remove rotor
press or hammer broken studs out
replace with new studs
put rotor and caliper back
put wheel back

roll on
>>
File: kzckqtkkg3tx.jpg (1MB, 2988x5312px) Image search: [Google]
kzckqtkkg3tx.jpg
1MB, 2988x5312px
>>1147969
if the hub is bolt on style, just replace the whole thing. they come with new studs

also make sure the wheel isnt fucked, pic related
>>
See how much a new hub costs.
See how much studs cost.
IIRC I bought a rear hub for a car for around $40
If studs are $3 (just a guess) you'd only save $25
You willing to fuck with the studs for $5 savings each?(I'd replace the one left too)

How did that happen?
>>
voting new hub. they're cheap as shit anymore.
>>
>>1147985
what the actual fuck how did that happen

>>1147969
op what are you so confused about
remove caliper and rotor
replace studs or hub
reassemble

whats the big deal?
>>
>>1148001
>how did that happen
improperly torqued loose lugnuts
>>
>>1148003
after looking at the pic again, it was also the wrong style of lugnuts
>>
>>1147972
This. Put a few washers on the new stud and draw it thru with a new lugnut. Get an extra one just for this because it may get fucked up.
>>1147999
This too. If it's a bolt on hub/bearing assembly, it will be less work. What unless you sperg out and wreck the axle.
>>
>>1147972
THis.

You're gonna need a hammer to pop that rotor off, and if you're planning on reusing rather than replacing it, use a rubber or plastic one.

First time I took rotors off I was looking everywhere trying to figure out what was holding that thing on, and finally just wailed on it a couple times out of desperation and it popped off.
>>
>>1148243
>Put a few washers on the new stud and draw it thru with a new lugnut.

This.

I always put the wheel on, drive for a few miles and then check the lugnuts just to make sure one didn't pull through just a bit more.
>>
Knock the studs out with a punch, install new studs and draw them in with the lugs nuts turned over so the flat side of the lug is against the rotor, not the tapered side. After installing the wheel drive a few miles and re-tighten lugs...auto mechanic for 30+ years
>>
>>1147969
Pull the rotor with a slide hammer
Hammer the bolts out
Hammer new bolts in
Reattach rotor
????
Profit
>>
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>>1148198
Correct. Lugnuts wrong type.
But man, my jimmies..rustled they are
>>
>>1148878
You.... You paited your rotor !?
>>
>>1148870
>Pull the rotor with a slide hammer
Wew
>Hammer the bolts out
>bolts
>Hammer new bolts in
Wew again
>Reattach rotor
>????
Literally the only part of the post where knowledge of subject accurately presented
>>
>>1148837
>auto mechanic for 30+ years
And that's how you do it. Yikes. You're the perfect example of why I do every single maintenance/repair on everything i own myself. Because I'm not paying someone with 30 years experience to do anything, especially when there's mechanics with 30 years experience that can't efficiently draw a stud into a hub.
I'm not saying you're doing it "wrong", but that's definitely not THE right way.
>>
>>1148927
what's the right way then? I was also a mechanic for 6 years, and that's how we replaced every stud.
>>
>>1148932
The correct way is to remove the rotor. Why? For one your are putting too much uneven torque on the rotor. Secondly, rust/debris will drop down in-between the rotor and hub and will cause all sorts of issues i.e. anyhting from pulsation to the wheel coming off.

The anon who said he was a 30+ year mechanic who have been fired by me the first time I ever saw this.

Experience: ASE Master Certified for 20+ years; Service Manager 8 years; Now business owner.
>>
>>1148948
>omit one incredibly obvious step
>REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
>>
>>1148248
It's really not that big of a deal. Get the caliper off of there, spray some good penetrating oil in around where the rotor sits on the hub (don't get any on the braking surface) and wait a little while. A couple of whacks to the not-quite-center-but-not-braking-surface part and it should pop right off.

Gotta be careful about rotors that have that pointless set screw though. Make sure to remove that.
>>
>>1148953
/b/ is that way ----------->
>>
>>1147969

>>1147972
Thirding this. Looks like you need new brake pads too. Might as well do that while you have everything apart
>>
>>1148878
I actually wonder if you would have to fix that. Surely after a few miles of speed/hard braking combo would fix it?
>>
>>1148948
warp a rotor by impacting lugs in....you're a fucking retard
>>
>>1148870
>Pull the rotor with a slide hammer
>Hammer the bolts out

The studs are pressed into the wheel hub, not the rotor. And there is could something behind the flange of the hub (where the studs are) preventing one from just 'hammering' them out. So there is a possibility that the wheel bearing will have to be removed to get the hub off to do that hammering.
>>
>>1148953
He said "against the rotor" implying the rotor was not to be removed
> omit one obvious step
Omitting one obvious step is how you fail at diy anything
>>
>>1149195
It definitely happens. Your lack of knowledge on the subject is blatently obvious
>>
>>1148919

Theres actually alot of people that do this.

What the fuck is wrong with everyone
>>
>>1148948
>>1149195
>warp a rotor by impacting lugs in....you're a fucking retard

ITT: anon displays experience level
>>
>>1148953
>omit one incredibly obvious step

t. sledgehammer
>>
>>1148878
Smells GREAT!
>>
>>1148927
If you produce the desired RESULT it's just fine!

If you fuck it up, it wasn't fine. Most of the world uses the lugs (without the rim in place) to suck studs in place and they seat fully and square to the hub surface. Autism isn't necessary.

What rotor CENTER can you possibly deform by drawing in a stud with the nut surface or nut with a washer against the rotor? You sure as shit won't deform the outside. Serious question. I've done 'em since the 1970s with no problems, no runout issues and in general total boredom.

If rust will drop between hub and rotor with all the lugs out, then theoretically one should pull the caliper and rotor, Roloc both surfaces and reinstall. I've never had pulsing brakes or lug issues but I actually look at what I'm doing.

Caveat is I don't work in the Rust Belt. If a rotor and hub were ghastly with corrosion I'd pull the rotor but by that time it would likely be scrap anyway. Rust Belt vehicles are a whole nother level of horror so I don't live there.
>>
>>1149830
in all honesty i worked with a guy that over torqued the shit out of lugnuts putting wheels on and they'd always come back with brake pulsations. funny thing is the majority of guys i've worked with never used torque sticks or even paid mind to the spec. but this one kid... now, i'd never mind, because nobody ever put 1 and 1 together and they'd just sell the job to cut or replace the rotors. when he went to work elsewhere, it stopped happening. i also do work in an area that's in particular horrible with rust. i don't think that's a factor with this, but who knows
>>
>>1149830
I wasn't going to argue the point with this guy. I do work in the rust belt. It's not a problem you push the lugs in and put the lug not on. Lay it face up un the bench and impact lugs until the studs are seated. Besides anytime I pull a rotor I always clean and re pack the bearings before I re-install the rotor. I also use brake kleen on the inside of the rotor and wipe it dry. To each his own, been doing it for 30 years and have never had one come back. Its the net I never acknowledge people that like to argue. There are plent others that will oblige them.
>>
>>1149929
>never had one come back.
Because they're 200 miles away when the wheel falls off
>>
>>1147969
On my ranger when I broke the stud I just hammered out the old one and pressed the new one in by using the new lug nut to pull it in and a socket or something(don't remember) as a spacer. I did have to remove the caliper and rotor to get to the hub.
>>
>>1150303
It must be 4WD, because with RWD, a broken stud is the matter of putting on a new rotor.
>>
>>1150371
Yeah it is 4x4
>>
>>1150303
>not possible
>>
>>1150476
Yeah it is possible, because I did it.
>>
>>1150476
I might've worded it poorly but by turning the lug nut against the socket I pulled the stud into the hole
>>
>>1147972
This is the correct answer.
Thread posts: 45
Thread images: 3


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