Log Slicing advice?

Chainsaw
If you really want to beat yourself up you could use an arborists bow saw

>>1147208
Well-sharpened chainsaw and a belt sander.

But the chain has to be well-kept for it to come out right.

>>1147210
>arborists bow saw
would be a lot of work for my arm i assume?

>>1147211
ok cool

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>>1147212
Oh, its gunna hurt by about the 3rd section.
Unless you know someone with a crosscut saw, but I've not seen one that's not an antique for years

>>1147208
Band saw obviously.

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>>1147217
like this?

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>>1147222
Was thinking of this actually, that way two people can suffer

Whatever you use to saw the pieces, you still need to finish them with a jointer.

>>1147257
I didn't think you can joint end grain. It'll have to be a disc/belt sander

>>1147208
Better hope that log is 100% dry or they're going to split, probably from an edge to the center

>>1147208
A 26in stanley crosscut from Lowes will work but it'll take forever

>>1147208
chainsaw and then sanding or som byg ass saw mill

>>1147345

This is not always true.

We have cut sanded and sealed many a wet lumber without it splitting.

>>1147852
>many a wet lumber
how many thin cross sections of the entire trunk?

>>1147855

Various heights ranging from 2" up to a foot.

Various tropical species and thicknesses from a couple inches up to 4 feet.

It's not something that we normally do but when decorating a house it's cheap and easy to set a guy on it for a day.

That said we are at 28C and 80% humidity average all year

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>>1147219
this

>>1147979

Explain that pic

>>1147979
band saw

>>1147979
Had the band slip off one of these. Terrifying as hell. Could had easily decapitated someone.

>>1147270
absolutely false. A, you can, it just requires a sharp knife, and B, it shouldn't be exactly end grain, now should it. most slices are done diagonally, so that you end up with a more useful oval shape. Which means there is a grain direction (even if it's only 15 degrees), and if you feed it that way and do light passes it shouldn't tear out much. You'll probably want to feed it between two longer boards of the same thickness to prevent snipe (the longer boards have thickness removed every pass as well, obviously).

The other thing you can do is flatten them with a router and a sled.

Rule of thumb for handsaw: a saw is made to cut anything with a diameter up to half its length. bigger than that and it'll be a huge pain.

The best saw for it >>1147211 (nope) would actually be a bandsaw. but 18" is a little on the big side, especially since they tend to have more sideways depth than height (although riser block kits exist for that exact reason).

Also, if you do a chainsaw, the most dangerous part is when the tip (instead of the side) hits the wood, because it goes from pulling the saw forward to shoving it up and at you. GL

I cut 5' log into a few pieces to make legs/sides of a coffee table. took me a week or two of 3 mins a night, then another week or two flattening it with a router.

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>>1147979
This picture makes me very uncomfortable.

>>1148692
Yep. That's why if you build you put in the effort to add a blade cover on the back to hold it if it slips off, and you stand behind it and push it forward instead of feeding lumber into it.
http://woodgears.ca/big_bandsaw/sawmilling.html
might work if you can get it up onto sawhorses.