Custom steel corner braces ?

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>>1141706

For anyone wondering, it's to repair my canoe motor mount. Needs to handle a lot of stress.

>>1141706

There should be a metal supply shop you can contact in your area...

In most cases, they can cut to your lengths, punch, drill...all for you...

>>1141706

Why not simply add a properly shaped block of wood on the underside? You seem to have room for something like 5x5x20cm block, this should make the connection plenty rigid.

>>1141706
someone with a half decent home shop could do t easy.

I'm a fabricator in the UK,If you were local to me, I could do you that in ten minutes.

No offence, but that design has a few weaknesses that could be improved quite easily. I'd try and get some small gussettry into one side or the other as well.

>>1141706
Steel is an alloy. Iron and carbon are elements, mixed together elements to make a metal is an alloy. You can't have steel not be an alloy.

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OP, you try to fix a bad mechanical design by changing element material? Wrong way to go.

>>1141714
That, or just add pic related or similar.

>>1141709
Buy one that's close and grind it down

Bore new holes if they don't align

>>1141706
I'm pretty sure you could do the same only stronger with an angled piece of wood. This brace is just weak the way you are using it.

>>1141714

I have thought about that... Guess my only worry is wood warping or things loosening up. Think I could do it sandwiching some oak boards with clamps, epoxy, some carriage bolts. It'd look a little weird but w/e.

>>1141775

I said the same thing, but the issue is the motor needs room to tilt forward and a crossbrace would be in the way. That's why the design is a little unusual.

>>1141743
Carbon isn't a metal, pure steel isn't an alloy.

>>1141849
It shouldn't be in the way, as long as it's below the height of the board. It'll fit between the clamps. Below the horizontal board won't be an issue at all.

Honestly, I'd rebuild the whole setup from metal, and put rubber between the metal and the boat, to protect the boat. But that's me, I can weld. I'd still add gussets.

>>1141706
Flat bar, drill, vise, hammer.

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>>1141967
>It shouldn't be in the way, as long as it's below the height of the board. It'll fit between the clamps. Below the horizontal board won't be an issue at all.
>Honestly, I'd rebuild the whole setup from metal, and put rubber between the metal and the boat, to protect the boat. But that's me, I can weld. I'd still add gussets.

Good point, guess I can beef up the lower part as much as I want. The top half is what gets the worst stress though from using reverse or pivoting the motor out of the water. Pic might help understand.

What would your metal one look like? Nice thing about wood is I can tighten things down over and over and it doesn't lose its shape.

>>1141981
>Flat bar, drill, vise, hammer.

But this is 1/8-1/4" thick steel, I don't have the equipment for that.

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>>1141891
What is "pure steel" made of?

Iron and carbon. As a metallic substance made of multiple elements, steel is an alloy. There is no kind of steel which is not an alloy. What OP meant by "alloy steel" is currently anyone's guess, but the term can be used to refer to steels with OTHER alloying ingredients that contribute significantly to the steel's properties. Stainless and tool steels, for example. But there are so many varieties with such different properties that it's not a very useful distinction on its own. Of course you'd have found this out yourself if you'd taken a few moments to google it rather than weighing in as you did.

OP, if you don't want to mess with optimizing the design, just get a local welder/metalworker to make a thicker replacement out of stainless steel. 316 or similar if you're canoeing in salt water. This is something really easy to make with basic metalworking tools, so you might ask any handy friends first to avoid having to pay a professional.

>>1142005
>What would your metal one look like? Nice thing about wood is I can tighten things down over and over and it doesn't lose its shape.
Depending on what I'll find, but I'd aim for using 1/4" thick plate. Small square tubing, may also work for part of it to save on weight. But there is room for a small gusset between the clamps, that will help a lot, and what a couple other anons were trying to get at.

>>1142022
rekt

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What you're looking for is angle iron OP.

Many types and shapes out there--you can also go to Home Depot or Canadian Tire etc, and find them pree made exactly the way you have them in your picture.

Use an angle grinder with a cutting disc to make your cuts--a good dewalt angle grinder is about 100$

>>1142005
>But this is 1/8-1/4" thick steel
You can make brackets out of 1/8" thick steel with a vise and a hammer. I've done it.

>>1141706
Bend a sheet of steel for that.

But cor corner brackets i always wanted to try getting a chunk of angle iron and poke holes every inch then chopsaw it.

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Well, I drew some plans and sent them to a shop for a quote. Just want it to be done right.

>>1141706
Just make you own. Buy some angle stock, cut it to the size you need then drill the appropriate holes. If you don't own a drill and a hacksaw you should not be posting here