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What finish do I use on wooden clamps and cauls so that they

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Thread replies: 16
Thread images: 3

File: clamp.jpg (29KB, 590x352px) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
clamp.jpg
29KB, 590x352px
What finish do I use on wooden clamps and cauls so that they don't get glued to the wood being clamped but also don't mess with the grip on the surfaces?
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>>1138942
You don't place the clamp over your glue joints, dude.
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>>1138946
Shit happens, glue drips out, spaghetti falls out of pockets, etc.
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wax paper
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>>1138978
Came to post this.
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Sacrificial pieces of a softer wood than than you're gluing. I mean, I guess that is the entire purpose behind wood clamps (that you don't need to place pieces of wood between the clamp and the project), but if you're that bad at situating your clamps, you might as well throw another piece between them.
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Silicone
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>>1138942
Nothing. oil, varnish, grease, paste wax, etc can get into the wood and ruin your finish. Unlikely if you're meticulous(as any good wood worker should be) but still possible with the best prep.

>>1138978
This is a good choice

But it's better to just get practice in, don't over glue the joints. I understand sometimes shit just goes wrong. Masking tape will work if you aporoach it like it's shingles, layer it so glue will flow around the clamp without getting on it. I keep some handy whenever I'm working with a liquid that can ruin what I'm working on. Some dudes go full autism and tape around glue joints, good results but ultimately more time and money while being unnecessary most of the time.

If you got a harbor freight nearby you can get their "acid brushes" for cheap. They're the type you use to spread flux around a solder joint on copper pipe. Pinch the ends a few times to remove the weak bristles so they don't break off in your joint. Thise spread glue like a dream, and are highly disposable, you can get a hundred for less than a pack of newports. Im sure you can find them cheaper online.
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>>1138942
So the best tip that i've heard is to tape on some parchment paper or wax paper.
worst case scenario is you glue the paper to the workpiece and have to scape it off, but since odds are you'd be scaping off glue squeeze out anyway if enough did that it is an issue...

a good slippery floor varnish should also work fairly well. although you'll have to sand the jaws and reapply every few months/years as it gets scratched up.

>>1139002
I have never heard of a dried varnish transferring from one piece to another.
Also paste wax yes, but I have heard some people say they quite like a heat gun applied to the jaws and then paraffin canning wax pressed against it. you get a much harder wax impregnation, although yeah, it probably will rub off a little the first dozen times you use it afterward. Will definitely seal the pores and keep glue from penetrating deep though.
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Wood clamps are not reusable. You must purchase new ones after every use.
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>>1138942
How are you clamping your joints so that glue is getting onto the face of your clamps?

Parchment paper will do the trick. Or wax paper.

Still, you should probably only deal with drips onto the bars, and then you just peel it off. Wipe away drips right away. Waiting and sanding is for when you're going to paint. Wiping is a good habit BC you'll have to do it if you stain/varnish or it'll look like shit.

In those cases, don't wipe off the bars right away. Better to let the glue that gets on the bars set so you can peel it all.

Pic of a glue joint that demands the clamp face get glue on it?
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File: Cauls-21.jpg (74KB, 800x536px) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
Cauls-21.jpg
74KB, 800x536px
>>1139044
>Pic of a glue joint that demands the clamp face get glue on it?
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>>1139008
The big box stores would love to sell buyers on that idea if they could get away with it.
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>>1139071

>mustard container as glue dispenser

God dammit how the fuck did I not think of this.
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>>1138942

Packing tape...I also use this when I do up ss counters n shit...works great...
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>>1138942
Painters tape.
Thread posts: 16
Thread images: 3


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