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Worrying cracks in load-bearing wall.

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Thread replies: 9
Thread images: 2

File: IMG_0849.jpg (4MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]
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I have these long cracks above a passage in a load-bearing wall in an old building. Would anyone who knows masonry please recommend what to do about it? The current plan by my father in law is to build 2 brick columns (4x2 bricks each, because the wall is 2 bricks thick) at the sides of the passage and put two thick metal rails (like railroad rails) on top of them. That would probably future-proof it, but it would also narrow down the passage to where a person can fit through, but not anything big, like furniture. I would rather leave it as it is or maybe put 10x10 cm or 12x12 cm wooden supports in there, like they do in the mines, and call it a day. Any advice?

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5oOG6GC8_0Rd01iRzFMdXNCTlE?usp=sharing
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>>1134725

Can't you (have someone) weld a bracket out of I-beam so you can put supports left&right of the doorway on both sides?

You still sacrifice some space, but the doorway stays mostly the same size.
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>>1134725
That wall looks like rebar (steal rod) reinforced poured concrete.

If that wall is only supporting a 1, 2, or 3 story house, then it is fine.

Is the structure above wood or masonry?

I'd only be worried if the cracks were wider, or were cracking vertically above the lentil of the doorway.

The "fix" of using bricks and railroad iron is stupid.

Here in the USA, if there were concerns about that concrete, we'd acid etch the concrete and EPOXY and lag-bolt a steel spanner brace, using a 1/2" thick steel plate, by about 16" wide and however long the span is x2.

Without knowing more about the building, I think OP is overreacting.
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>>1134754
In other words. Hire a professional to look at it and tell you what to do op.
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>>1134754
It is a poured concrete, but I'm not sure if it has any metal rod reinforcements or the quality thereof. Well, there are some metal rods sticking out from undersides of floors (actually quite handy for cables and soft enough to bend by hand), but I don't know if there are any of those inside the walls. There should be. I hope.

The house has a cellar, living floor and an attic.

The structure above is made of more half-metre thick concrete, but it is mixed with that blackish porous slag from a coal furnace, presumably to either make it cheaper or improve thermal insulation. The resulting concrete quality is so bad, that I can rip off pieces of it with my bare hands, but we covered the outside and interior in better quality cement, so it mostly works out.

One of the cracks is more or less vertical above the doorway (the picture at the start of the thread is rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise), the crack on the other side is angled.

I too think the brick columns are an overkill, that's why I ask about alternatives. The "railroad" rails are called I-beams in English, I think. They are used throughout the house to hold the ceilings and roof.

I'm overreacting because my father in law would like to just build a brick wall in that passage and call it a day and I'm looking for alternatives, that would block the doorway less. The wall will probably hold on for now, but he wants to future-proof it.

The fix where you seal off most of the crack with concrete and inject it with some kind of liquid plastic sounds too high tech for us. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6aZVpoJerU

Screwing on 1 cm thick steel plates on both sides also seems out of our reach.
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File: nathan4u.jpg (55KB, 1200x600px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1134725
>>1134754

i know absolutely nothing about masonry or building and like 99% of posts on /diy/ nothing i say should be trusted or taken as fact

but with the crack forming in that direction i would guess it is being caused by a small amount of subsidence beneath that area of the house.

Personally I would get a laser spirit level, place on the opposite side of the door way, mark its position and mark the position of the laser on the cracking side. Do the same from the roof of the doorway to the floor and just keep track of the positions, if it gets any worse, ie noticeable deviation from your baseline marks, get in a professional surveyor.

since the crack is horizontal, i dont see much point in shoring it up, nothing is going to fall off it unless the whole house goes, but many houses have larger and more widespread cracking than that, maybe check your exterior walls parallel to where that crack is just in case.
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Pay for a structural engineer to come look at it FFS! Cheap motherfucker. If your fingers turned black would you get on here first, or go to a doctor?

While you piss and moan about muh dollars, the building is tearing itself apart. God damn the ways people skimp out on their homes! It's only the MOST EXPENSIVE INVESTMENT YOU'LL EVER MAKE!
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>>1134725
2 rules about concrete.
1) Its heavy
2) it cracks
measure mark and monitor.
As long as it is not growing wider leave it alone.
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>>1134785
>investment.

Sigh.

Not all of us can afford a fucking complete home assessment every time we find a roof leak.

I've lived in a lot worse op. U fine. Shit settles. Especially old shit. Just hammer in some thick walled pipe against it and weld it up. I've worked in tunnels with sheet plate on top and equipment rolling around overhead. Never had a problem.

These faggots are overreacting.

Dont put up a giant ass block wall...
Thread posts: 9
Thread images: 2


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