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Humidifier Fan Motor

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Thread replies: 14
Thread images: 7

File: 14876996530991500883502.jpg (692KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]
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My humidifier fan motor isn't working. Are any of you familiar with this type of motor? I found an affordable replacement, but I want to be able to test it while disconnected from the electronic controls to make sure they arent the problem and not the motor. Also, what is the small part attached to the side? Voltage regulator?
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File: 400px-Steinmetzschema-1.svg.png (9KB, 400x235px) Image search: [Google]
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It's a 3 phase motor. The black thing is a capacitor to make a botchered 3 phase signal from a single phase supply. It's called Steinmetz circuit. Pic related. To test it, cut the 2 wires leading to the motor and apply 110 or 230VAC, depending on what is normally applied. If it does not run, disconnect immediately. Maybe the cap is defective, and a new one could solve it. If the resistance of all phases is the same, it is most likely the cap. Find someone who knows more than me to guide you to find suitable replacement.
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>>1134389
could be just about anything from that picture
test it? find out what voltage it takes and then let it have it.
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>>1134389
if it's a permanent split-phase motor, the part on the side is the capacitor.

three pin connector is neutral (white) and two hot windings
one winding gives low speed, one gives high speed

depending on if it's a 3 or 2-speed fan, connecting both hot windings at once either gets you turbo speed, or a smokescreen.
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>>1134423
>>1134427
Thanks anons. This is just the info I was looking for. Going to variac it up now.
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Update: Applied 120vac to each tap using white as neutral. Nothing.

>>1134423
Judging by this schematic, I should have continuity between all 3 leads through the coils, correct. There's no continuity. Is this thing toast?
>>
OP here again. I just tested the output from the controls. It's toggling 120 between the black and blue leads when you change the fan speed, which seems correct according to >>1134423
>>1134427
Before I give up and order the replacement motor, I want to see if it's the cap.
>>
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>>1134453
4uF
Does this seem like an appropriate value? No markings on it
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>>1134441
well if by continuity you mean resistance?
there should be a resistance.
if they are all open circuit thats kind of suspicious, you might be able to fix it, if the coils are fucked i would say it's not worth your time but based on this whole thread why not give it a go,
>>1134457
well you could calculate what it should be if you had the winding resistance.
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>>1134461
Both taps test open. Fug.
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>>1134466
Maybe the thermal fuse opened circuit?
>>
>>1134453
Guy who replied first here, and I have to admit that I did not see 3 wires went to the motor from OP image.
So it seem this guy is correct:
>>1134427
According to that diagram, you should have continuity between any 2 wires leading to the motor. If you have none whatsoever, it would be a bit strange as normally not all connections or windings in coils break at once. But I won't go so far as to say that would be impossible.
Maybe switch to resistance and measure again, maybe the resistance is too high for the meter to show continuity. If resistance is infinite, well, buy a new motor and make the same measurements and compare.
Good luck.
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>>1134889
Me again, I wanted to post this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPNU2vniUIc

That is the reason why I soak the windings of the RC motors I buy or wind myself with epoxy.
>>
>>1134516
>thermal fuse
this
many small motors like this have a thermal fuse monitoring the stator winding.
Thread posts: 14
Thread images: 7


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