Wooden Blacksmithing shop?

Chimney and spark cover is the most important part once you get the rest tidied up and anything flammable out of the roof
That'll be the place sparks go, stops you gassing yourself, burning down forests etc
Windows are 'optional' in the sense that if they're covered over and keep the light out its easier to judge the temperature of metals

solid wod even has a certificate to be fireproof for a certain time.

Ever tried to burn a log with a lighter?

>>1134371

While greatly time consuming that is not impossible.

If you tried to light a fire you would know that wood does not just burst up in flame unlike what many people think.
The main risk in a wooden shop would be a spark going into some fissure and instead of going out it starts smoldering slowly. It can keep smoking for hours and turn into a fire in the middle of the night. But if you find a fireproof substance to protect the wood it should be ok
I wonder if whitewashing would be a good solution

>>1134799

That's exactly what I am worried about. Might not have phrased it right. The wood is pretty dry though, has been drying for ages.
There is flame retardent paint, but it probably is not enough to seal.
Found this link, but I don't really feel like playing with chemicals in my free time.
http://chestofbooks.com/reference/Henley-s-20th-Century-Formulas-Recipes-Processes-Vol2/Fireproofing-of-Wood.html


Fuck it, the best way probably is to take sheets of metal and apply them to wall and ceiling area, sealing all the gaps with some kinda non-flammable sealent. Should I end up doing that I'll post a picture...

>>1134802
Sheet metal will cost you a fortune you could use drywall which will not burn.
For the floor why don't you cover it with concrete or cheap tiles/brickwork?

>>1134804

That's what I'll end up doing. Concrete floor is nice and level if done right, after all.
Drywall seems like the best option really. It's gonna take a while until I'll be back home, but certainly drywall seems appropriate.

>>1134814
Sheet metal is probably tough but it would be a sad place to be in. Also when it's summer and you get the forge going it'll be like being in an oven

>>1134316
Are sheets of rockwool out of the question? Think its pretty standard for this kind of shit.
As it both insulates and fireproofs

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>>1134814
Drywall for walls and ceiling is okay but for the floor you would need tough concrete reinforced with rebar.
I have put my anvil on a stump on 10cm concrete with a rebar mesh in it but I found it works much better when the stump is sitting on dirt because it absorbs the blows instead of giving them back like concrete. A springy wood floor is even worse unless you have a really massive stump
I think a brick floor would look awesome like in old factories

We just built a blacksmith shop at work, brought in a whole bunch of Amish and everything.

We just have wood walls and a dirt floor, the Amish dude in charge was very clear that we had to leave it dirt because the dirt will smother out any sparks better than concrete.

Also, you are way over thinking it, your forge won't burn your shop down if you install it correctly, it's a glorified fire place. If you are really worried about it, you could always brick up the wall around it. What will burn your shop down is a messy floor around your anvil, keep it clean and watch your sparks.

>>1134818

They are a fucking bitch to install. And you have to cover em up somehow.

>>1134845

Sadly, I know of no amish community in my highly regulated country. Keeping the floor dirt is kinda unconventional I guess but it makes sense.

We'll see in a month or so.


>>1134819
That would look amazing. But not very level.

>>1134316
Are you the ausbro that inherited the shed?

If so, fucking great to see you're still at it man. If not, well, carry on, and bask in my jelly.

You don't need to cover the walls. Mine is a 20x20 workshop with wooden walls, wooden shelves, barrels of oil and transmission fluid, canisters of propane, sheaves of paper, and a dirt floor.

In the 5 years I've been doing this shit I've never had a fire in my workshop that I didn't start.

>>1134316
There is probably some sort of code where you live. In my country double drywall means 60 minutes of fire resistance, it takes an hour of fire (or 30 min? Can't really remember) to burn through. So you can do heat and sparkproducing work in that area. To work with heat and sparks (burning, welding, grinding and the shit) you need to have a certification over here. On the short and quite silly course to aquire the certification they made it quite clear that fires start because you have something flammable around you (duh!) and its easy to avoid them. Keep the area clean and don't store flammable shit around fire. Designate an area for you hot work (welding, grinding) and keep it there. Have shit around your anvil clean.

Don't be like anon below...
>>1135757
Such an argument.

>>1135777
>To work with heat and sparks (burning, welding, grinding and the shit) you need to have a certification over here

What kind of fucking nanny state requires certification to use a grinder?

>>1134316
Put furnace away from walls
Keep fire extinguisher nearby
Don't live in a dry climate/burn stuff on dry days

I know a guy who has a tiny ass shack with barely enough space to stand in and he has a bigass forge in there. You'll be fine