110v buzzbox welder

>>1131308
Look on craigslist. Better to get a used welder first and see if you like it before dropping cash on something you won't use. Go with 220 if you can. I just got a lincoln 220 volt 225 amp stick welder off craigslist for 75 bucks.

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>>1131308
>110V
>but they don't ship to Canada.

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>>1131358
or estate sales

i got a miller thunderbolt (ac only though) for $50 with 30lbs of 6013. spent another $30 to make it AC

don't they have anything you can buy at princess auto or whatever in canada and return if you don't like it?

>>1131463
>AC
er DC

>>1131308
Must go 220.

$300 lincoln cacklebox / tombstone.

No 100 mig welders.

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>>1131471
>lincoln cacklebox

even bing knows better

>>1131471
>lincoln cacklebox
eh?

nothing wrong with gasless flux core 110v

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9e39bG260s

>>1131308
Depends on what you are doing anon. If you are planning on making brush guards or bumpers for people, building roll cages and the like then you want 220. If you are not doing anything that will be under heavy stress than a hobby level machine will do fine.

>>1131612
same poster , also dimensions and hardness of the metal are considerations.

>>1131308
I have both a 110v stick/tig and mig. For me 110 just isn't enough juice for stick welding. What's great about stick is the powerful arc force letting you blow through open roots, dig deep into thick metal and keep a good arc going through paint, rust or other debris. With 110 you have to be careful not to extinguish the arc in the slag, porosity tends to be more common, forget about running a keyhole in anything that's not sheet metal and most 110v inverters can't run fast freeze rods like 6010 or 6011. So, smart thinking to look at a dual voltage machine like that AHP. The AC buzz boxes/tombstones are great machines for the price but aren't nearly as portable as a modern inverter and you don't have the same polarity control as with DC machines.
I use my 110v mig much more than my stick/tig. The catch is that it weighs 60lb vs 7lb for the stick/tig. It's still portable enough to lug around and use with self shielded flux core wire, which is primarily what I run. It works well on thicknesses of about 14guage to 1/4". For thinner stuff gas shielded solid wire is the way to go. The argument against 110v mig is that 220v mig can do the same small stuff and much thicker.

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>>1131612
Would 110 flux be enough for a Brutus 10 (home beer brewing sculpture).

+/- 1.5" square tubing with 0.065″ walls?

FWIW I'm running electricity to my shed this spring - trying to justify the added cost of a bigger welder and the cost of running thicker wire.

>>1132001
yeah, just don't let the joints be the first you've ever welded with that wire.

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>>1132001
I used 110 flux to build my truck bed out of square tube like that. I still had more than enough power. Even welded some 1/4" thick pieces to the sides to hold on the stakes and they've held up to a lot of abuse.

>>1132020
Not to be dense, but are you saying I need to practice or to not use a fresh roll of wire?

>>1132071
Nice - I'm torn between the Hobart 140 or the 210 :)

>>1132198
>Not to be dense, but are you saying I need to practice or to not use a fresh roll of wire?

Not to be obtuse, but a fresh roll of wire will be fine.

What's the best AC/DC stick/tig welder combo that's also not incredibly expensive?

>>1132198
practice, and use lincoln wire

harbor freight's korean wire - spatters a lot
hobart wire - spatters more than lincoln

>>1132198
>I'm torn between the Hobart 140 or the 210 :)

You select amps you don't have. I'd get the 210, no question. You'll thank me twenty years from now when you are still welding with that machine because you didn't outgrow it.

ITW own both Hobart and Miller. Both brands are quality. I've got Miller, ESAB, Thermal Arc, Hobart and Lincoln machines. (They keep following me home.)

>>1132289

I read once that nobody regrets buying a tool that was better than he needed.

>>1131308
go to princess auto and get yourself a Hobart 210MVP. it may be more then you want to spend but it's also well worth it. dual voltage so you can use it damn near anywhere and if you don't want to buy gas right away you can just use flux core till you're ready. also if you'd like one that can do everything the Lincoln Power MIG 210 is multi voltage, stick, MIG, and TIG. i believe it's like $200 more then the Hobart

honestly once you have a welder you'll be surprised how much you actually use it and how much money it can save you. i use mine to repair everything from shit around the house to automotive and farm equipment. hell just in the last week my welder has saved me enough to pay for itself

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>>1131308
Nigga loving

>>1132198
Self shielded flux core wire has a larger heat to metal deposition ratio than solid wire, since it's a hollow steel tube full of flux running in straight polarity (DC-). The arc jumps from the work piece to the wire, generating more heat on the piece vs short circuit (DC+) solid wire MIG. 0.065″ is about 16 gauge which is not much metal to distribute the heat of the arc, increasing the probability of blowing holes instead of adding metal. Using a process which adds more heat to the base metal is not ideal but can be done with some finesse. I'd suggest using .024 gas shielded solid wire or TIG welding it. However, if you want to weld it with .035 flux core:
First make practice pieces to dial in your settings. Then learn how to stitch weld. Spend just enough time on the trigger for the pieces the metal to "wash" into each other.
Let off the trigger for a moment, giving the molten metal time to partially solidify, then hit it with another half second trigger pull. Starts are usually where you'll get porosity with flux shielded welds because the initial arc force and heat aren't enough to bring all of the flux to the top of the weld. By stitching with flux core you are creating a multitude of starts which greatly increases your chances of failure points. The trick is to keep the weld bead glowing red between trigger pulls or else you'll end up with trapped slag and porosity.
>>1132020
Agreed. Cut some practice pieces from your material to dial in your settings on before you try to weld your finished product. The thinner the metal the trickier it gets.

>>1132349
I'd just like to add that in order to continue welding a bead, start 1/2" an inch in front of the bead and go back over the previous bead before continuing on and it should be fine.

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I have the Harbor Freight cheapest 110 stick welder. Doing fine with my hobby welding. I thinking of getting a flux core welder next so I can do thinner materials.

>>1132320
>honestly once you have a welder you'll be surprised how much you actually use it and how much money it can save you. i use mine to repair everything from shit around the house to automotive and farm equipment. hell just in the last week my welder has saved me enough to pay for itself
So much so. The new chair arms to repair my chair is only one example of saving money.

>>1132737
>new chair arms to repair my chair

Do you really think those will hold up?

>>1132767
Not the same guy but, questionable welds aside, those will certainly outlast the chair. Those are way overbuilt for their purpose. Tubing would have been more ideal but tricky to stick weld. They should be painted though.

>>1132774
>those will certainly outlast the chair

yes, I was being facetious

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>>1132767
You're actually looking at the backside of the weld. Here's an example of what the weld looks like on the other side.

>>1132774
It's been months, and still no sign of rust. I did soften the edges.

>>1131308
A NICE 110V welder can work well for hobby use. My main home welder is a multiprocess machine that runs on 110-240V, and it can stick weld at 150A from 110V mains. But it's a nice major-brand fairly new inverter machine rather more expensive than a typical buzz box. Transformer machines and lower-quality inverters will struggle with stick on 110V. Depending on what you plan to do, it may be preferable to have a 220V outlet installed so you can run nice but older machines well.

>>1131480
>bing
who the fuck

Hey, guys. I really looked into it. Amazon didn't work for me and also went to all of the stores around here. Was really considering the lincoln 225 but they only sold the ac version here. Checked craigslist for a week but still didn't find anything i like until i looked at what was being sold on the other side of the border. Went down for the day and bought a miller suitcase welder for a bargain. I have to buy the adapter for 220v eventually but i i'm okay with the 110 right now because i only need it for some thin stuff right now and can run smaller rods if i want more penetration.

Thanks for the help giys maybe i'll post what i make sometime.

>>1131480
>bing
>no duckduckgo
fug

>>1131495
>>1131495


He touches the rod, like why? unsafe unsafe

>>1132001
More powerful welder and more power to shed more than pay for themselves over time. Still have my Lincoln AC-225/DC-125 I bought in the 1980s and the arc remains excellent. It's a handy little shit. I leave it strapped to a hand truck for convenience.

I have lots of other welding machines but wise welders keep a good small buzzbox. (Rest of fleet includes Miller 340 AB/P that can do 570A output tho I'll never need that much, ESAB 450i cvcc MIG/TIG/stick, Thermal Arc 95S (too small/low OCV for my preferred electrodes, OK for tiny TIG, I got in trade but would not buy), ESAB Migmaster 250 (sweet arc for sheet metal), Hobart T-400 AC industrial beast I bought for the leads but kept for the nice high OCV arc, and a Miller EconoTIG which is a good machine but low end amp setting could usefully be lower than it is). I repair welders and ran a welding tool room.

That said, Miller Thunderbolt, Hobart and Lincoln transformer machines are tough, often cheap used and so reliable they often outlive their first owners.

They will run, not maxed out, off a 30A dryer or oven single phase receptacle.

Last three houses I lived in I immediately ran a 50A outdoor outlet off the existing service. Still have and use it despite plenty other power points. Outdoor outlet and a nice long heavy duty cord, gets you the range to do many useful things. I have 100A at my shop and recommend running power to your shed, but you will want a stout 220 single phase cord anyway because it's often easier to move your welder than move a trailer or other large workpiece.

When you run power to your shed, be generous with outlets. You'll want a 200 outlet for an air compressor even if you don't currently own one.

>>1131308

Get yourself over to your local welding supply store (Praxair or what the fuck ever) and grab a little Lincoln Electric or Miller welder for less than a hundred bucks. Gloves, a helmet that's not total shit, some general-purpose rods, you're at about $150
Don't fuck around with half-measures or homemade garbage. Yes, you -CAN- make simple welders yourself. Doesn't mean it's a good idea. Especially for a beginner.
Do it right and have no regrets.
Weld all the things.

>>1135512
>$150
nigga he's Canadian, the fucking helmet and gloves alone will be $150

>>1135513

$16 at acklands, nigga. Best lid in the business.

>>1135512
>local welding supply store (Praxair or what the fuck ever) and grab a little Lincoln Electric or Miller welder for less than a hundred bucks

you mean craigslist? a name brand stick welder from a supply store for <$100 - is that even possible?

>>1135586
you can't even buy a fucking nail for that at those shysters

>>1135513
I'm a Canadian welder and what the fuck are you even talking about

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just bought a lincoln mp210 to learn to weld. going to start with stick and move to mig when i know what i'm doing

i figure my first project is going to be a metal work bench.

any ideas for projects after that?

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>>1135725
Welding cart
>>1135512
This is bait.

>>1132309
Ha. This was a good one.
My welder is a three phase machine, I think it is around 12-15kW.

>>1135780
>three phase machine
those go for crazy low prices

saw some miller cp302s go for ~$60-150 with feeders