Tools Thread

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got one of this.
are these capable of cutting steel/iron or only woods?

>>1129615
wood only. though you could probably do a really soft metal like brass or copper.

>>1129615
Imagine holding a vibrating piece of metal against a steel beam. It would just fuck up your hands. It would technically cut through rust though.

>>1129615
That's a pretty slow oscillation. Most run up to 20K, and the higher you go the more you have to worry about overheating. You typically go slower speeds with metal and faster with lighter woods. Still, I've never gone as low as 2100.

Is that graphic right? Should there be another zero there?

>>1129615

Get Bi-metal blades...they're pretty good with cutting metal...I have 2 Feins, and do this all the time...

so I got a hammer
and a wrench
one of those rulers with a leveler

>>1129615
Wood mainly. I've used them for cutting through a metal gutter and thin sheet metal but it vibrates like mad it's not very precise.

I just bought a circular saw and a jigsaw today.

Already have a bunch of chisels and some nip saws.


I need some wood, though. No car to pick any up, hoping someone dumps a bunch near my house sometime soon.

>>1129657
yeah there must be some mistake, it's 15000-21000 rpm

>>1129358
You didnt post the owner, that would have been the only tool in the picture

>>1129900
OP here

Deep

>>1129358
I have %50 percent discount on snap on stuff. Is there anything I should get? I have about $300 to throw into possibly moving to better tools.

I bought a 10.5amp makita circular saw recently because my old 15a skilsaw has a habit of tripping residential breakers. Breddy gud. Despite the lower power rating it does everything fine except long rip cuts on thick hardwood. It still can do that but it's a slow go.

>>1129615
Yeah it's completely possible providing you have the correct attachment/blade to do the job. There's videos on the net of 6mm steel checker plate being cut easily enough with dremel branded attachments. Always better to have OMTs with speed adjustment, cutting slower when it's metal is better as heat ruins cutting tools.

I love drills!

>>1129911
Depends on your needs and uses. If I had that discount and looking to spend that amount of money, I'd get the ⅜ cordless impact. It's great for tons of things.

>>1129358
Who uses a powered screwdriver anyway?

>>1129911
Congrats on your new socket and extension bar.

This should be an indication of how much you need or don't need fap off tools.

Is the dremel 3000 a good all purpose tool

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Recently got my hands on this impact driver.

While you need ear protection, it sure is much more comfortable to use.

>>1129618
They'll cut steel with the right blade.

>>1130241
That has always confused me too.

>>1130307
Depends. It's okay for light duty metal cutting. Cutting plastic. Light grinding/detail sanding. Rotary tools have very little torque so they're often inadequate for any job that needs more than the bare minimum in that regard.

I have a dremel and honestly i would have chosen either an angle grinder or an oscillating tool instead in hindsight. But again that depends on what you have in mind to use it for.

>>1130241
Cable TV installers come to mind right off.

What's a good sawzall? My HF (surprise) died in a show of electrical glory.

>>1130604
Porter Cable is pretty damn good for the price. Note, for the price, I'm not calling it top shelf.

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If someone were to have a small budget and would want to get into woodworking (interested in maybe trying my luck on a table), which kind of power saw would you tell them to get?

I have no idea about tools, I just know I need a saw and have a budget of about 150-ish Euros.
Should I save up and get a Table Saw in maybe two years or wait for a bit and get a good free-hand saw? what is the better investment over all?

Pic related, my DIY Nerd friend wants me to get it, the cable version.

>>1130693

If you are attempting furniture and doing it on a real tight budget, I'd get a good circular saw and a rip fence. (a) far cheaper than a half-way decent table saw (b) better for straight cuts and ripping than a jig.

>>1130088
increases productivity from quarter-ass to at least half ass. One of the best tools to have in the shop

>>1130693

I'd personally save up for a table saw. Doesn't have to be a cabinet saw or anything just yet - start with something cheaper, upgrade when you have the money and you're more accurate than your saw is. Here in Trumpistan, you can find an older Craftsman table saw for $100-150 on craigslist most days of the week.

>>1129358
Bro bought a cordless drill from ASDA (UK arm Walmart) called "Power It", it has a digital power read out (much better than the stupid three light system) and he's been abusing it for over a year, he is an electrician and although this is not his main drill it seems to be the one he always has in his hand, one year with him is ten with a normal user.

Haven't seen for sale again but will grab one next time I do.

>>1130693
Get yourself a table saw if you have the room for one, there is just so much more you can do with a table saw than any other kind of saw, especially if you take the time to make a few basic jigs to run on it, my next choice would be a circular saw, make yourself a track jig to make straight cuts and there is an awful lot you can get done with that set up.

Good luck

donaldtrump.jpg

>>1130241
I used to do fibre to the the home installs a while back and it was my number one tool. Great for putting in small screws to hold saddles and splice boxes, but mostly for pulling off and putting back phone jacks that are fixed with everything kind of screw known to mankind since we were forever using phone wires to draw fibre down walls with. I had a worx screwdriver that was sort of like a revolver and held like 8 bits in it which you can swap in about one second, cool fucking idea actually.

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>>1130693
Jigsaw is more of a specialty tool. Tough to get clean square cuts with it. The whole point of a jigsaw is to cut curves and small bits where a circular saw is too big/too unwieldy.

I vote circular saw. A good one. It'll last you a long time and does not become redundant when you finally do buy a table saw. There are things a circular saw can do easily that is awkward on a table saw, like cutting up large sheets of plywood.

Set aside some money for clamps. Working with any kind of wood joinery, clamps are absolutely essential. And a large drywall T-square, and rafter/speed square. A decent (not the cheapest!) 90 degree angle clamp like pic related is also very handy.

>>1130783
BLUMPF BTFO HOW WILL THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES EVER RECOVER

Now super thread relevant, but looking at some of this conversation I would like to know how builders/carpenters interact with other trades on your country?

Here in New Zealand, we call carpenters chippies. Almost all of them are useless morons, but some are decent enough people to have a beer with.

Basically they just frame, clad and trim new houses and renovations, that's about it. It's so fucking specialised here, you have the man who does the floor, the man who makes the frames and trusses, the man who wires everything, the man who plumbs everything, the man who does heat pumps, the man who does alarms/cameras, the drywall fixers, the drywall plasterers, the painters, the kitchen fitters, the bathroom fitters, the tilers, the door furniture guys, the build cleaners, the list goes on. I don't know why some of these cunts can learn to idk, fix and plaster wallboards? Or builders learn how to fit kitchens? It's not rocket science.

>>1130835
I must be missing your point.

>>1130802
seconded. jigsaw seems like a more versatile tool but since you're starting out, you'll want to cut things square and a circular saw will do that. just get a decent blade like a diablo for it.

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>>1130790
How is Worx? We sell this thing at Lowe's, and it strikes me as one of those things that's actually a really neat idea, but one that is sadly going to be shit because it's probably on a cheap garbage tool. Like the Kobalt Double-Drive screwdrivers. Fine ratchet mechanism, basically a torque reducer rather than a multiplier, makes for quick screwing, right? Nope, shitty ratchet mechanism that sticks.

>>1131951
>>1131951
Only experience is with the robot lawn-mowers and those are pretty shit. Design is flawed, components ok, assembled by idiots, but using mediocre to decent parts. My first thought when seeing they make power tools was "oh hell no"

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>>1130790
Comes in all kinds of flavours.

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I'm in the market for an electronic screwdriver. I've got M18 Fuel for the big stuff, but little things like replacing electrical sockets or building a PC, having something compact would be neat. The Dewalt gyroscopic screwdriver is so fucking tempting. I want one just for the gimmick factor. Being able to pivot from pistol to inline is awesome too. Problem is, I have no frame of reference for how torque-y the thing is. I tend to be of the "Tighten until it strips, then back it off half a turn" frame of mind. Has anyone used it? Is 40in/lbs "barely bending an electrical face plate" or "How the fuck did you manage to strip the mounting screw for a power supply?". Can you use it to hand tighten? I know some electric screwdrivers basically work like ratcheting screwdrivers.

Otherwise, y'all got a suggestion on a very compact screwdriver for small projects like PC building and around the house stuff?

>>1131964
I got one as a freebie at work, since we amass so many points with all the Dewalt tools we buy. Personally, I love it. I have a 2nd job fixing arcade games, bumper cars, and other attractions, and it's quickly become one of my most-used tools in my bag.

It's not really heavy on the torque, so depending on what you're working on, you might have to give a bit of a manual twist at the end to finish it off. Less chance of stripping screws out than with one of their little 20v impacts. It works well with a socket adapter too, but I don't use it on anything too big. It's more of a time-saver than anything, and my wrist has been better for having it.

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I need a new cordless sawzall. Dewalt 20v vs Ridgid 18v and the lifetime warranty from Home Deep? Price is the same.

>>1132153
do you have any tools from either brand already?
I have the Ridgid x4 sawzall and its served me well.
I picked Ridgid because they have a 2 pack of 4.0 batteries for $99

>>1131951
It just introduces a failure point, and it feels cheap as well.

>>1130693
Get a circular saw, make a rip fence and with the money you have left buy a dovetail/tenon saw, maybe a second hand plane and chisels. You should definitely get a drill if you don't have one yet.

I actually built a lot of stuff to sell to hipsters with just those tools. Get a hand router later

>>1132111
When you say bit of a manual twist, do you mean getting out a normal screwdriver, or can you basically use it as a ratcheting screwdriver?

>>1130835

Sounds like all the chippies you know work for project home companies. I'm a chippy from Australia and here's my take on what you just posted.

The term jack of all trades master of none comes to mind.

I think you'll find it's more of an efficiency and henceforth profit subject, I can and most builders/chippies I know have at least a basic understanding and should be able to do the majority of the things you listed. BUT we cannot do them all as fast and possibly to as higher standard as the guys who specialise in them, this is because we do not do them every single day and probably do not have adequate professional training.

From your list here are the things I personally do on a regular basis

Install frames and trusses (Truss design requires you to be an engineer and have specialised equipment)
We will install lining and set the sheets on smaller jobs or if a plaster is not available.
Painter situation is the same as the plaster.
Fit pre made kitchen flat packs from suppliers
We will fit the handrails basins mirrors etc in bathrooms but don't do the plumbing for insurance reasons.
Same goes for electrical we will remove power points and lights etc and cap them but do not make any changes for insurance/training reasons.
We tile small areas and larger areas if a tiler is not available
Always install our own door furniture and fit the doors
We clean our own sites

What do you mean how do we interact with other trades? Tradesman comes on site we run them through the design and layout show them the plans and what they need to do and then they do it.

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>>1129358

Jesus Motherfucking H. Nigger Christ this is the worst tools thread I could possibly imagine. Here are a few basics for you 16 year olds:

1) ALWAYS get corded tools unless you always need to transport them frequently like a screwgun or impact driver
2) Never buy anything from harbor freight. Good brands include Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, Bosch. If you're going cheap pick Porter Cable over fucking HD's Ryobi (now total shit).
3) Always use the thickest and shortest cable you can get away with. 16 gauge is usually too thin and will hurt the motor and reduce power.
4) 16 tooth circular saw blades are good for nothing but cutting up firewood.

I'll continue in another post later.

>>1132399
Please do educate the 22 year old pleb that is me

>>1132401
Happy to. Firstoff let me state I'm an oldfag who is a general contractor for over 20 years, mostly doing custom renovations. I subcontract a lot of work out, like HVAC, stucco, plumbing, painting, finish carpentry, electrical, even car mechanics but I have done it all myself sometimes and as a general I have to be the one to answer to the customer and building inspector so over the years I've learned how to find mistakes in everything.

As a general rule, you never want low quality tools or materials (especially when doing a project you need to last). There are plenty of guys out there perfectly willing to do the shittiest possible job as cheaply as possible as long as it lasts until he gets final payment. I don't believe in doing this kind of work so I don't work for people who are just looking for the lowest price. When you're spending approximately 20,000k do you want to save $500 to risk it failing shortly after?

So the first thing that irritated me about this thread is OP's pic. Those things are USELESS. If you are a fresh-out-of-college liberal arts major who has to hang 4 paintings and then throw them away, maybe they're ok for you. But at 22 you have many decades of tool need in front of you. Those particular items are good for nothing a hand screwdriver can't do. Then there's a post of a coffee maker - really?

The next image post, a jigsaw, is a decent tool. I personally don't like the barrel-body jigsaws because they are "always on" in that there is more time needed to stop them if your cut starts to go wrong, and then it'll be more likely, depending on your skill, to jump up on you and damage the face of the wood while to focus on turning it off. So I prefer the models where the body has a handle grip with a trigger.

Next image: >>1130802
That's a good clamp but not very versatile. Your first clamps as a homeowner should be trigger clamps: they're cheap and VERY versatile. cont...

>>1132404

Next 3 images should be replaced with actually good tools. Your minimum you'll need is a screwgun (the kind with a chuck which can also grab a rounded drill bit). The better ones also have a "hammer drill" feature which you should get if you can afford it. I personally like to also have and use an impact driver as they are less likely to scrip screwheads or twist your arm as you use them. They also have a shorter profile so they can be used in tighter spaces and provide better visibility.

The next image is DeWalt's reciprocating saw. I personally prefer Milwakee's "sawzall" as they were the inventor of this saw and I've used them my whole life with complete satisfaction. Again, don't get the battery-powered one, get the corded one. Corded models last 10 times longer, are cheaper, mostly because the battery technology is still evolving. Your battery will die in 4 years, they won't even make that battery anymore, and you'll have to buy a whole new saw. Not to mention the battery powered ones are much weaker. Whenever you can, get these types of saws, as well as jigsaws, with the "oscillating" option. This makes rough cuts much easier and quicker because the blade circulates a bit making a slighter widens cut but making the job 100 times easier.

The next image is a paper clip. Nuff said. A previous poster mentions to always keep workspaces very clean, which I also subscribe to. Get yourself a shop-vac. Throw away the fucking circular filter they supply with it and use bags instead. Otherwise you blow dust all over your house.

I'll dump some more tips a bit later and response to any questions or comments...

>>1132410
Ty, based.

>>1129615
Get an angle grinder to cut metal

>>1129615
As >>1132431 said, angle grinders will work, and you can also use an angle grinder for sharpening blades if you're skilled and don't have a bench grinder. But my overall recommendation is to get a good diamond blade for your circular or miter saw if you need to make many precision cuts. If you just need a one-off tool for cutting copper or slightly harder metals, a hacksaw may be all you need.

I once used a circular saw with a diamond blade to dice up an entire cast-iron boiler in my basement before I moved out (no way to carry it up whole) and that saved me a lot of cash. I'd hate to try that job with an angle grinder.

Every tool you buy should depend on your needs - 99% of people will never need to cut up a 80 year old cast iron boiler installed when the house was built. Just do your own cost benefit analysis.

Also inventory is very expensive. Most people don't have space to store heavy duty tools long term, and most large construction contractors throw out thousands of dollars worth of material at the end of each project because keeping that stuff in inventory is simply not cost effective.

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>>1130241
Impact drivers don't give you much in the way of torque settings, if any at all, and drill/drivers are too much tool for a lot of jobs.

I wouldn't have one for my house, BC anything I'm using less than an impact driver for I'd just use a regular screwdriver. But I can see why guys who drive 20+ screws/day on the job and don't want/need to lug around a driver would.

Hose clamps come to mind. Way back in my navy days I did cableway inspection/repair during a shipyard period. I'd have loved to have one.

>>1131951
If you have to have new tools and want a decent bargain brand, go Ryobi. Worx has a long tradition of new accessories not working with older devices with their lawn equipment. I assume this extends to batteries for power tools.

That said, you'd be better off buying a used high-end tool than a new low-end tool. Craigslist is your friend here. I have a fully decked-out wood shop, everything bought used. If you're patient, you can save a ton. If you keep an eye on things, once or twice a year you'll get a ridiculous bargain. (e.g. 10" Makita sliding compound miter saw ($450) with nice custom stand ($200) for $75 total, Iyoroi blue steel chisel set ($350) for $10)

Buy used - not just because it's cheaper, but it's also an exercise in learning about tools. Better to address the learning curve (i.e. screw yourself out of a little dough) with used tools than new.

>>1132399
>1) ALWAYS get corded tools unless you always need to transport them frequently like a screwgun or impact driver
Not necessary. Back in the day, heavy duty batteries were heavy as shit and didn't hold a charge. Today they're lightweight, and the tiny bit of weight is a small sacrifice for maneuverability and not worrying about cord safety. Batteries all day.
>2) Never buy anything from harbor freight. Good brands include Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, Bosch. If you're going cheap pick Porter Cable over fucking HD's Ryobi (now total shit).
Also incorrect. HF sells plenty of decent tools and accessories. Just be wary, look for reviews, and know enough about the tool that you're confident buying the bargain version. (e.g. their cheapo oscillating tools are 1/3 the price of high end, with 2/3 the capability)
>3) Always use the thickest and shortest cable you can get away with. 16 gauge is usually too thin and will hurt the motor and reduce power.
This is essentially correct. Just always use 12 gauge and you don't have to worry about length.
>4) 16 tooth circular saw blades are good for nothing but cutting up firewood.
Bro, do you even rip?

>>1132436
A good rule of thumb, imo, is don't buy a tool until you're ripping your hair out over how much easier something would be if you had the right tool.

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>>1132424
It wasn't shit advice, and his first post is spot-on, but to argue some of his points...
>Next 3 images should be replaced with actually good tools.
He's not wrong, but this is a stupid point to argue. The Torx was already stated as probably a cheap garbage tool. The green Bosch is the consumer line, not the professional line, so of course it's garbage, and no one in their right mind is going to reach for a tiny 8v screwdriver over a proper drill/impact for heavy jobs. If you need a strong tool, buy a strong tool. I'm the one who posted the Dewalt, and I was asking about it in the context of super light duty stuff, things that small electric screwdrivers are designed for.
>Your minimum you'll need is a screwgun (the kind with a chuck which can also grab a rounded drill bit).
Screwgun can't grab a rounded drill bit. A drill can. He's describing two different tools. Screwgun(pictured) holds 1/4 hex bits, drill has a drill chuck.
>The better ones also have a "hammer drill" feature which you should get if you can afford it.
Could go either way on this. If you very rarely need to drill concrete and masonry(I spent $20 more on my drill to get one with the hammer mode so that I could bolt my drill press to the floor. I'll probably never use it again.), sure, get a hammer drill. If you need to drill in concrete/masonry often, or rock ever, rotary hammer. More hammery, less spiny. And use the correct bits. Hammer drills just have more parts to fail, weigh more, are longer, more top heavy, are more expensive, and the impact ain't doing the chuck any favors.
>Your battery will die in 4 years, they won't even make that battery anymore, and you'll have to buy a whole new saw.
All good power tool Li-ion batteries just use standard 18650 cells inside. There are places that will rebuild them for you. That said, why bother with that shit unless you really need cordless for that tool. Get a drill/impact kit, maybe those one or two odd tools you need, call it good.

>>1132424
Cont. >>1132459 and adding to what >>1132453 said,
>2) Never buy anything from harbor freight.
Harbor Freight has plenty of stuff worth buying, and they've only gotten better over the few years that I've noticed. I mean, there's not much room to go but up from rock bottom, but there's a reason that they're still around. If you see someone 100% disregarding HF, or someone saying that everything that HF sells is amazing and just as good as the nice stuff, they're both idiots. Research what you're buying and make an informed choice. Is HF ever the best? Fuck no. Are they the best for the price? On a lot of things, definitely. They're the go-to for cheap oscillating multitools, and if you need a drill, I've actually heard a lot of good things about their 18v $45 cordless, enough that I'd certainly at least look into considering it versus Black & Decker/Porter Cable/Ryobi. Should you ever buy sanding belts from them? Noooooope! The ends overlap, rather than meeting end-to-end like good ones, so they go thunk-thunk-thunk as you sand with them.

Really the question is, what do you want to do, and what tools do you have? If you want to work on your car, go get a cheap mechanics set with sockets/pliers from Lowe's, and then buy new stuff as you need it, or replacements if you fuck up your cheap ones doing stupid shit.

As the guy who wrote all that, please let me defend or further justify/clarify why I argue for them:

>>1132442
The modern impact drivers do let you control IPM (impacts per minute) which does let you control the "force" it's applying, but it is tricky because the IPM is varied by how hard you squeeze the trigger. I personally prefer it, but I could see how it might not be for everyone. I'd still stand by the point that it's less likely to strip out screwheads, is more compact, and provides better visibility with its lights because there's no large adjustable chuck blocking the light.

>>1132453
I'll just address all your points in one block, hope it's readable. Corded vs cordless I address mostly on how long the tool will last. I totally agree the modern batteries provide a lot more power, but the batteries still have a life expectancy and in the past few years the lithium-ion batteries have gone through an upgrade. If dewalt decides to obsolete my battery in 2 years and it dies in 3, I'm out of luck. None of that crap comes into play with corded tools. If I'm a roofer who maybe cuts a couple of boards atop a roof once a month with a cordless circular saw, the cordless model may be better for me, but that's not the task for carpenters plowing stair treads every week and I'd rather my saw last 10 years instead.
I guess we can't agree on harbor freight just by my personal experience. I had a flooring contractor work for me once who was so proud of how cheaply he got a tile saw at HF, and it broke in 30 minutes (among similar stories). So for a homeowner who wants his stuff to be readily available I'm not so sure. I will say I had a carpenter who had an oscillating tool from HF work for many years and he only needed it 2-3 times a year, so he probably made out better getting the $45 one from HF than the $120 one from a major brand.
Totally agree on just buying 12 gauge and calling it a day.
Ripping should usually be done with a table saw, cont...

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>>1132466
Installing something like roof-deck joists I often use a circular saw, but I just find 24 teeth min for getting clean and accurate cuts.

>>1132454
Generally speaking I agree (don't waste money) but I've found most DIYers who are NEW homeowners way underestimate how much they will spend on home maintenance. And when you need that extra power/feature/tool in a pinch, it totally holds up the job and costs more. If you can afford it, get yourself the better tool. Who wouldn't rather drive a nicer car right?

>>1132459
I think we just use different terminology here, maybe I'm too old-school. Pic related is close to my "screwgun" but everyone is calling them drill/driver now. I think every homeowning DIYer needs this tool. You're right the hammer drill feature is not needed but it can come in handy. Like you said, if you need to work on masonry, like if you have a stone or brick exterior with vents in it or any shit like that, it's nice to have but not essential.

I still stand by the "get mostly corded" position though because lots of non-professionals use their tool once a year, and when time isn't really money on a daily basis, your cost benefit is improved with corded. I'd love to hear you guys' feedback as I could always be persuaded to change my opinion with good cogent reasons and thanks for what you've already said.

>>1132469
>I'd love to hear you guys' feedback as I could always be persuaded to change my opinion with good cogent reasons and thanks for what you've already said.
One of the two guys arguing with you here, you were mostly spot on(screwgun/drill aside), I just wanted him to have both sides a bit more. I don't know if it's regional or what, but I do remember very rarely hearing the term screwgun to describe drills maybe 10-20 years back, but we also still had screwguns back then too, usually pnumatic flooring ones if I remember correctly, so I dunno what's up with that terminology now.

>>1129670

With a fein tool no problem, we got those in my workplace aswell and they're really worth the money. I have made only bad experience with parkside tools. (discounter-brand)

>>1130716
Quarter-ass to half-ass? That sounds like a decrease

>>1129358
Finally got a rotary tool. Figured it'd make my life a lot easier, using a black and decker rather than just a box cutter and xacto knife for carving/hollowing wood.

>>1129358
Need a sawzall for unapproved /diy/ stuff. Corded only. What brand is best bang for buck? I'm not poor, but I don't want to spend excessive amounts just for a brand. I like Porter Cable stuff, any reason to avoid them for a saw?

>>1134139
I just snagged a makita for 90 bucks, thing is a fuckin ripper, and I've always bought makita. Rigid is good too, similar price. Ryobi corded is the cheapest, and it's fine for a sawzall, it's a rough tool anyways. Milwaukee is the best, but like I said, it's a sawzall man it just depends on what you're doing with it.

I picked up several of these Shark Pullsaws because I read good things about them and can't afford to have real antique nokogiris shipped around just to get their tiny wan mirrion steeru teeth sharpened. They're made in japan at least but I don't know to what standard. And I've not had the chance to try them out yet so they're in their packaging still. Anyone else use them, have tips or warnings so I don't accidentally break them? Or are they trash?

Here is their old retarded infomercial because imageposting is breaking according to /qa/:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5v1P5Rp1no

Is it possible to get individual leatherman parts anywhere? I've scoured the internets to no avail

PROTIP:

If you can't afford a good tool that happens to go on deep discount, check to see if the store does layaway.

Layaway is a godsend for bargain-hunting poorfags.

>>1130835

Same in the UK, more or less

We have sparkies, carpenters, the tile guy, the plumber, carpenter I know down here does the stud wall frames, drills holes for sparkles to wire, doors, kitchens, cupboards, puts up the plasterboard, we have one guy to plaster, who does just that. Plumber just plumbs, tiler just tiles, elect just does wires, oh and the brickie, he just slams down solid lines,

I'm buying a used bench grinder today. Is there anything I need to know so that I don't kill myself using it?

>>1134726
Best tip: read the entire manual. You can get it online if the previous owner is so shitty they didn't save it.

>>1134728
I found a copy of it already while I was trying to figure out the arbor diameter. It's only 7 pages long but there were still a few safety things I didn't know, like letting it run for a minute before using

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>>1134706
Images are fixed so these are what I meant.

I have the 9-1/2”, 17 tpi & 9 tpi double saw, the 10-5/8”, 19 tpi super finecut backsaw and the 6-1/2", 26 tpi dowell/dovetail/detail saw. (Middle, second from the right, far left)

>>1134970
They're probably fine although bear in mind i'm not especially fussy about this type of saw, grain of salt. The handles on the two on the right look kind of awkward.

As far as detail saws like this are concerned I've had good luck with western backsaws, the kind you find at home book depository or whatever your usual brick and mortar is. Those can do dovetails and such no problem. Only issue is almost all of them have hardened teeth so no sharpening. On the other hand they cost a whole 15 bucks total.

No need to dole out the big bucks unless you are of the ivory tower hand tools illuminati and demand best of best of saintly divine saws tempered in the blood of virgins.

>>1134970
They look a lot like the Authentic Japanese saws I have, just the handles on those two do look weird. But maybe it's easier to get a straight cut that way?

>>1129615
Cut through aluminum to make a rod rack yesterday

>>1135552
If it's a pull saw i guess i might be easier to pull it down to get into wood while with a push saw you would push it in from above. But that is just my drunk saturday logic

>>1132469
>I'd love to hear you guys' feedback as I could always be persuaded to change my opinion with good cogent reasons and thanks for what you've already said.

1/2

former Home Depot Hardware Associate here, 99% of customers prefer the convenience of cordless tools over the power advantage of their corded counterparts. i can see some really basic customers (IE women and poorfags) sticking with a basic $30-40 corded drill just to have around the house and pull out of the drawer when they want to hang some drapes, but most "DIY" customers really should have a proper cordless drill at their disposal, not some corded antique with a keyed chuck, no clutch and wrist-snapping levels of torque.

for other tools, it really comes down to how much they plan on using them, where they will be using them and what platform they might already be invested in. if you are just doing basic projects in your garage, a handful of corded tools like sanders and reliable saws will last a lifetime. on the other hand a quick glance at the number of cordless tools available from brands like Ryobi makes that kind of mobility attractive to people that want to work all over their house without cords and air hoses getting in the way.

for "Pros", corded and cordless just comes down to what kind of work you are doing. for example if you are roofing or doing fencing out in the middle of nowhere, cordless tools are godsend, especially the newer high end stuff like Milwaukee's FUEL line and Dewalt's 60 volt platform. on the other hand if you are just doing framing or remodel/renovation work, 2/3 of your tools should be corded. you can spend $300 on a Dewalt 60v Circular Saw that will probobly spend 90% of the job in the same room or $169 on a nice Makita Magnesium Worm Drive that will last decades and still outperform a 60v cordless saw.

>>1136978

Imagine how much of a Home Depot™ shill you have to be to write this shit.

2/2

>muh planned obsolescence
most manufacturers have stopped changing battery platforms every 3-5 years and are sticking with their current lines for the foreseeable future. thats why Ryobi continues to use their One+ battery platform 20 years later and Dewalt has adapters to use 20 volt MAX batteries on their older 18volt XRP tools as well as 60 volt Flexvolt batteries working on 20 volt tools (no you cant put a 60v on the 18v adapter, i tried and it doesnt fit).

im guessing their thinking in previous years was that introducing new battery and tool lines would force customers to have to buy new tools/batteries/chargers to stay up to date, but they realized that having their customers go out and buy new tool lines opens them up to switching over to a competitors line instead. its better to have a reliable customer that is invested in their current platform with dozens of tools and batteries than one that felt burned and is looking to change brands out of spite.

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>>1130720
>Trumpistan

>>1136979
its just tool buying advice from the merchant's side of things. after countless conversations with customers staring at racks of display tools and dull conversations about every other tool they've ever owned you get a pretty good handle on how to figure out what they actually need without spending a fortune.

>>1136984
Home Depot sucks for tools though, that's why they only shill their shitty Ryobi brand which is better suited as a toddler's toy. The don't even carry anything except ryobi for things like a drill press, bench grinder etc.

The manufacturers are also shilling cordless just because most people are suckers and it's more profitable for the manufacturer. Why do you think they are shilling cordless mitre saws these days? Who the fuck needs a cordless mitre saw?

>>1136984
>"former Home Depot Hardware Associate here, 99% of customers prefer the convenience of cordless tools.."
bollocks, that is classic Shillspeak and you are now attempting to justify your miserable existence, you wretched litle good-for-fuckall. 'former' = lie. '99% of' = lie (like 99% of sentences that use this now-meaningless bullshit stat). Etc. Youre a shill and a cunt and your 'advice' is BS, fucking kys already.

>brands like Ryobi makes that kind of mobility attractive

REEEEEEEEE - fucking cunt.

>>1130088
2 cups brewed per charge.

>>1136985
>The don't even carry anything except ryobi for things like a drill press, bench grinder etc.
in-store stock is limited to the space that's available on the shelf, so we only carry the cheap Ryobi stationary tools for light-use homeowners who will actually buy them, not fingerfuck them then be aghast at the price and walk away. if you want higher end products that will last go to a "real" woodworkers store or buy one online from our website, which shows 120 results for "drill press".

>Who the fuck needs a cordless mitre saw?
plenty of contractors around here do work in rural areas where power is limited, not everyone lives in the 'burbs or urban areas. they're also nice for people who do light duty work like trim and need the precision of a chop saw but rarely need anything bigger than a 7 1/4in blade. we've carried 5 different cordless miter saws over the last year or so and the only downside ive heard is that they require the biggest possible battery amperage from that platform to work properly.

>>1137139
>t. I'm not sure what isle the drywall screws are in let me call the manager for you

>>1137140
Asle 14 Bay 5, orange boxes for screws red boxes for nails.

>>1137143
I was looking for 5" and 6" drywall screws and you losers don't carry them.

>>1137288
hanging multiple sheets of drywall at once wont cover up the smell of the rotting corpses in your walls.

>>1132363
Sorry I didn't get back to you. Grandpa's dying, was out of town.

I meant that you'd twist it as you would any screwdriver to break it loose or get it properly tight, usually not even a full turn.

>>1135535
Pretty sure it's the blood of slaves.

>>1136978
>not liking keyed chucks
>ever needing a clutch for anything except fastening
>not wanting superior torque
Look, I don't know about you metalworkers, but as a man who enjoys fondling dead tree carcasses, I use a drill for drilling holes. I want to screw something in, I use a screwdriver, maybe the electric one if I remembered to charge it. I see yobbos out there with fifteen different cordless drills, one for each socket they use and I get to thinking, is this generation afraid to put a torque wrench in their hands and let loose some sweat? When I want to put a hole in something, I plough through it with a twist-drill with the power of a 70W corded drill for half the price of a 50W cordless drill. If the only inconveniences of a corded drill are the cable length and susceptibility to being cut, then screw it, I've got seventy metres of extension cable coiled up and ready to be plugged in or spliced on to a twenty five-year old drill. The thing's older than I am, and she hasn't let the smoke out yet.

>>1138104
>the power of a 70W corded drill
a.k.a. a dremel?
not entirely disagreeing with you either, just, you maybe missing a 0 somewhere in your power ratings. Either that, or you a masochist, idk.

>>1138107
Oh shit yeah, looks like I was looking at a pretty outright wrong sources

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>>1138104
>>not wanting superior torque

its 2017, there are smarter ways to apply superior torque.

>>1138127
That doesn't drill holes. If I wanted to do up wheel nuts I'd buy a rattlegun.

>>1131964
I just use my impact driver for all my screwing needs. I've managed to disassemble and reassemble things like old imacs where all the screws bite into the plastic without breaking anything or stripping screws. If I'm doing anything in tight spaces, I'll try and borrow one of those "12 volt" mini impact drivers.

>>1132410
Not him, but rebuilding battery packs is pretty easy.

>>1132466
>provides better visibility with its lights because there's no large adjustable chuck blocking the light.

That reminds me, Dewalt's "20v" impact drivers with the three LEDs on the front have the best light layout. No matter how you hold it and what you're doing, you'll always have at least one of the LEDs lighting up what you want. I have no clue why other manufacturers don't do this more often.

>>1132469
>>1132625
Third guy here, I've heard screwguns refer to these tools that look like drills but are only meant for screwing. I've heard >>1132459 these called drywall guns or drywall drivers, but not screwguns.

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>>1138228
one of Ridgid's drills has a set of LEDs built into the chuck itself to provide a constant ring of light as its drilling. most other models have the light at the bottom, which im fine with. thats my biggest problem with Milwaukee tools, they continue to put the LED right under the motor and the shadows when drilling and driving are awful. even Ryobi tools are smarter about where to put their LEDs.

>>1138261
>putting electronics in your chuck

Pretty much the most important part of the drill, and you are putting garbage into it?
Milwaukee has the best cordless ratcheting chucks. Im glad they didnt shoehorn fucking leds into them

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New shit.
My boss did me a solid and picked up the bill.

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>>1136997
>2 cups brewed per charge.
this
Then i recharge the batteries while im taking a dump, and i can make 2 more cups after lunch.

>>1138267
>all those 5AH batteries
its getting steamy in here boys

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>>1138279
>all those 5AH batteries
Not gonna lie, I'm pretty fucking spoiled at my job. Plus they'll have it rebuilt at no cost.

>>1138264

Not necessarily, could be light pipes.