Need exterior house paint help

Sand/water blast?

A pressure washer will take off most of the paint.

>>1126194
I've been told to not use a pressure washer because it will soak into unseen places in the house and cause a ton of rot.

>>1126193
sandblast...can i rent one or something? are they costly?

Sorry for bumping but... Also wondering..

What about after its cleaned up a bit. Is there special paint or primer or something else that should go on?

>>1126189

Rent a vapour blaster, they use water together with a blasting medium. In my country that would generally be an IBIX.

Then buy an airless sprayer to repaint (these are a lot cheaper).

>>1126189
Blast the shit off with a pressure washer and scrape off the rest try to angle the water down as to not shoot it under the siding. Scrape with the grain and not across it. Sand.
If you are worried about rot don't.
Removing the rot will be a different project.
Primer would be okay in bare wood spots.
Acrylic paint .
Money yeah its gonna cost money lots of it. Buy quality paint.

File: dcc385bc4925eeeb4fddae72043386a0.jpg (189KB, 1280x853px) Image search: [Google]

189KB, 1280x853px

>>1126193

abrasive blasting will remove the paint but exposed wood will be 'embossed' due to the softer parts being eaten away while the harder part will resist the erosion.
(tree rings - light-dark-light-darl-etc)

Thanks for all the tips guys. Going to be a huge project. I'll likely see if maybe I can just reside it for a bit more (doubtful though)

A popular solution is to just cover it up with Vinyl siding. Vinyl is final-don't have to sand, paint, etc and if you DIY it might be cheaper-at the very least in the long run it will be.

>>1126208

>Acrylic paint .

I'm not a painter, so I'm not disputing this. But last time I asked my neighbour who is, he said to go with Alkyd based paints for the exterior. Could just be based on outdated experience though.

For low maintenance I'd skip painting altogether. Stain with something semi-film forming. Maintenance is a never ending story either way if you want consistent colours, but stain will degrade more gracefully and needs less prep to touch up.

>>1126209

You'd have to go full retard for it to be as bad as that.

The water in vapour blasting supposedly lifts up the paint much more efficiently than a solid blasting material alone with less abrasion. Also the lead doesn't travel as far, I'd still wear a respirator and goggles though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXDH_JpIYZY

scrape a section, prime it and paint same day.
latex is good.

repeat until done

Thanks again, you've been really helpful.

Re Vinyl. I think it looks tacky as all hell. I do have some construction experience, and a few times when we did a renovation and had to match the vinyl it was impossible because even after a few years the color of it has faded/changed (like white getting yellowed).
Still an idea though. If I was loaded with money i'd probably do cedar pre-painted shingles...but that's a pipe dream.

Scrape,prime,paint sounds like the most reasonable plan i guess. Pretty overwhelming thinking about how long it might take though.

Scraping goes pretty fast. If you don't want to sand the wood it's probably your only option if you can't rock a sandblaster - and if you've never used a sandblaster it'll be quicker anyway, imo.

Biggest tip I can give is hit up paint stores - the ones that serve contractors so no box stores - and look in their mistints for a 5-gallon of primer, and an exterior color you can live with.

A big scraper is a lot of work, but if you've never sand blasted you'll probably end up making more work than if you'd just scraped. If you pressure wash, you WILL have to sand unless you want a furry house.

>>1126199
Whether or not a pressure washer is safe depends on the construction of the house.

>>1126223
>For low maintenance I'd skip painting altogether. Stain with something semi-film forming
That's really not good advice. Staining isn't protection, it's staining. Mil thickness is protection.
>Paint is all about hitting mil thickness.

OP, just scrape the lose, flakey shit. Alkyd primer and paint through an airless (you can rent one for about $50 a day).

Remember, this is maintenance coating, it needs to be maintained.
>Touch that shit up from time to time to keep small failures from becoming large failures.

>>1126376

>That's really not good advice. Staining isn't protection, it's staining. Mil thickness is protection.

If it survived this long with the paint flaking it's cedar or better. All the protection it needs is some fungicide and UV protection so the colour weathers semi-equally.

>>1126381
>UV protection
Yes sir, you are correct. But I think the only thing with the proper UV inhibitors would be polyurethane spar varnish and that requires yearly maintenance (I own a boat, and while that in no way makes me an authority on the subject..).

I still stand by my first post.

>>1126393

I have no idea what's good but something like this seems to get decent reviews :

https://www.amazon.com/Ready-Seal-112-1-Gallon-Exterior/dp/B00MDVLMGK

I frequently come across exterior stains in mistint closets in addition to paints.

Staining the house though - that's a boatload of work if you go that route. You'll absolutely have to PW or sand blast, then hit the corners with a detail sander, then scan/sand the whole damn thing for feathering. Staining work is 90% preparation when you're starting with good wood. Staining old wood - while it looks awesome, is TONS of work. AND you've got horizontal boards so you'd have to fill every crack or you'll have standing water.

It would be twice as fast, and less work, to replace the wood on that house and stain rather than restore.

I restored and stained my deck when I bought my house. PW, sanding, filling - looks awesome but I will never do that again.

I stand by my original recommendation. Scrape, caulk, sand w 120 where needed, and pick up a couple 5 gallons from a mistint closet. One a good primer, and the other a color you don't dislike.

Sprayers are overrated imo, unless you really know what you're doing. By the time you scrape the glass and get annoyed by every nearby tree being speckled, you'll wish you just bought a good 4" brush.

>>1126232
That is just grit blasting with water added. The point of the water is mostly to keep dust down.
It removes paint trough abrasion, not by lifting it like a pressure washer does.

>>1126556

The manufacturers disagree, they say you can achieve the same effect with less pressure and less blasting media. They would say that of course.

http://ecojetinc.com/vapour-blasting/

Never used it yet. I've only looked into it for removing the paint off the house of my parents. Their boards have a convex part on top where the boards overlap, so annoying to do manually.

>>1126788

Oops, concave of course.

>>1126788
I looked into buying a wet blast system a couple of years ago.
Considered systems from over a dozen manufacturers.

They do infact remove paint much quicker and use less abrasive media than dry blast system.
Because in a pressurized pot, every particle of media is encapsulated in a droplet of water, thereby increasing its mass.
They also use less water than the retrofit wet blast kits available for dry blast pots.

When you have multiple layers to remove, you can angle the nozzle at say 20-30° instead of straight on at 45°, it will attack multiple layers at the same time and remove paint faster.

In the end though, media is still removed trough abrasion.
If you look at the surface, it will have the tell tale marks of media blasting.

The only commonly available system I know of that can safely lift paint without actual change to the surface is dry ice blasting.

Dry steam will do a similar job but the only machines with enough pressure and steam volume to do it are used for nuclear decontamination and kind of rare on the second hand or rental market.

There are laser systems too. They're €500k to buy and something like €1000 for a long term lease.

Pressure washing can remove loose paint, but even a dinky little yellow Kärcher household machine might damage wood fibers to remove the stubborn bits.
Its still the best solution for the price in my opinion. Most professional house painters infact use pressure washers.

>>1126852

The only thing special about dry ice is that it disappears on it's own, during the blasting it won't be any different from another medium with the same hardness. Soda is not far off.

I would use a steel brush and brush off all the loose scraps of paint. then use an oil-based primer (if the original paint is oil based) and then paint with oil based paint. Thats what i did to my house and it worked out well.

>>1126869
Dry ice has no abrasives. It essentially works the same way dry steam does.
In lower pressures it can be for cleaning car interiors and such.

Soda and walnut are extremely fine, but still abrasive and will alter the surface of wood somewhat.


Whatever method is used, the wood will need to be filled and sanded smooth.
So don't take off all the paint unless you really have to.