QTDDTOTT - Questions that don't deserve their own thread thread

>>1124410
I dont think you need to torque a rifle scope, just hand tighten it well

>>1124410
Most of that sort of stuff that goes down to 1.5ft-lb's is specialist and unlikely to turn up for cheap + accurate readings and it really is a tiny amount of pressure really.
What I usually do is tighten the bolt so its in, not able to move back-forth and then maybe about a 3/12ths of a turn, so if you imagine a clock face, start at 12 and turn to about 2-3

>>1124423
3/12ths

Clock reference.

>what is a quarter turn.


Fucks sake anon...

>>1124410
>what is torque
>what is gravity

Take your allen key or your wrench and measure the distance between the axis of rotation when tightening a fastener and some point where you can attach a string. Divide 17.5 lb in by that distance and bam, the result is weight! Tighten it down by hanging that weight on the wrench when the wrench is horizontal. Bam, you got it. If you want to be super anal about it:
-correct for gravity acting on the wrench by substracting half the weight od the wrench from the ballast you're using (water bottle comes to mind)
-degrease the threads first
-try to start with the string end of your wrench above the horizontal plane, so that is has a chance to stop horizontal.

>>1124457
I considered doing this but it seems like a potentially complicated and precarious setup for something I have to do 8 times. Not to mention when you're tightening the screws on a scope mount, you have to be very careful. They need to be tightened evenly and if you tighten one side too far at once, the scope will rotate in the rings.

What I may do is get them all snug where I want them, then finish with the method you described.

>>1124458
Well, such is life in precise mechanics. You get specialist equipment or you make do.
Will uneven tightening result in damage to the scope or just misalignment? In the second case you can just tighten one screw down properly first, then unscrew it to get a feel for the proper torque in your hand and just hand tighten it most of the way.

Then again, i suppose this isn't something you do often so i would definitely spend an hour and have it done right.

>>1124457
Or maybe if you can weld you can fab up a torquewrench of your own? Threaded rod inside a spring welded together at one end. Welded/otherwise attached to a wrench/allen key. Nuts and washers on rod limit the extension of the spring. Calculate how many newtons you need with a wrench of length L to get moment M. Springs have a (theoretically) linear relationship between extension and pull force. Take a scale and calibrate your springy contraption so that the spring bottoms out on the washer at precisely N newtons of pull force. Attach to wrench, turn wrench by pulling spring. Stop pulling as soon as you see the spring touch the washer.

>>1124468
You only risk damage when you overtighten. I don't know what 18 in-lbs feels like so I'm scared I'll overtighten and damage the mount or the scope, or I'll leave it too loose and the scope will walk around. I actually already ordered a torque screwdriver with the adjustment I need. Low end but it'll get me in the ballpark.

>>1124410
>>1124410
You got any machine shops or gun stores near u? They should be able to help.

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>>1124410

$56 Better hurry - one day left.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weaver-Gunsmith-Torque-Wrench-849728/332104509199

ALSO: The QTDDTOT is still here. >>1116656

You really should have waited until it died before starting another.

>>1124612
Fuck, I checked the catalog but obviously not thoroughly enough

I'd delete my thread but it's too old to delete now.

Any idea what this is for? Runs from my bedroom to the livingroom in my apartment. A couple things here confuse me, the resistors and cap, and the wire. Why is it so heavily insulated?

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>>1124625
Shit, heres the back

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>>1124626
And the front, not actually sure it runs from room to room, but those are the two places i found these

>>1124625

Looks like a shielded 300Ω TV antenna lead access point.

>>1124634

FINCO G300
http://www.bedfordohiohistory.org/build/finney.php

>>1124410
How to join 4 planks together into a table top and then make pretty.

I have glue clamps random orbit sander and a shItty harbor freight hand planer

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>>1124612

Here is a similar product for about $42 when shipping is added.

http://www.r3doxies.com/store.php/our3doxies/pd9159344/firearms_accurizing_torque_wrench_by_wheeler

>>1124612
>>1124458
Can confirm torque wrenches, particularly harbor freight ones are useless for it.

The 'click' that indicates you have reached torque gets weaker and weaker the less torque you have. At 20" lb you can barely feel it, it's not worth trying to do

Either loctite them and go by feel, or just wait for the tools.

I also found lapping kits to be reasonably priced and got one after my last mounting without one pinched my tritium scope alarmingly.

Any ideas on how to toss out a small oilless compressor?

I used it for airbrushing but I took a look inside and there's black gunk inside the tank, maybe mold because I think I might not have emptied the water the last time I sued it, which was ages ago.

>>1124644
>>1124634
Way before my time, thank you its been bothering me forever

>>1124410
I want to live in a treehouse. I don't know dick about building, I don't know if this is even possible and I don't really know where to start.

Is this even feasible? How do I save on money? What about zoning laws?

I am going to be starting a project where I want to make a table in my house which has the center of its surface double as a monitor or display so i can put pictures and such on it. Mainly for playing table top games. So I am between using four older monitors and stripping them down to bare minimum and putting them under the table. Or using a projector underneath and then a plastic piece in the center for it to shine on. So my questions are; is this even a decent/cool idea? Should I go with the monitors or the projector? And for cutting a section of the table in the middle not all the way through, is there a way to cut down like 1/2" thickness from a 1" thick table in a 2" wide strip rimming a hole in the middle?

>>1124757
Where do you live, for starters? Germany or Botswana?
I have a book called a treehouse of your own by John Harris. It gives nice basic info. Read some forums (there are dedicated forums for this) and their stickies. Living in one isn't impossible but building one is obviously trickier than a house on the ground.

>>1124970
You should use one big monitor. Not four smaller ones. Their edges will eventually pass you off. I'd forget the projector as just laying a screen will be so easy compared..

>>1124970
>using four older monitors
As a combined into one central monitor or one monitor for each seat at the table?

Anyone have any recommendations for books about figuring out more complex roof parts? Things more along the lines of dormers, not pre-engineered gables, hip/valley rafters etc.

>>1124700
>Any ideas on how to toss out a small oilless compressor?
put it next to a unsurveilled dumpster
someone will pick it up

I want to build a tube amp some day (not anywhere in the near future, I want to read up more on the way that they work), and I was wondering where I could learn more about power transformers. I have a basic understanding of how they work, but I do not understand the turn ratios that well. I understand how the basic 1:whatever ratios work, but I don't understand the amount of turns that are used to achieve these ratios (like how 600 to 1200 windings is 100 to 200). Is there any reason to use a larger amount of turns to achieve the same ratio?

>>1125133
There are none around me. I live in a 90% Indian suburb planned community.

Idk if the compressor is bad or not, but the tank seems to be filled with that stuff.

>>1125226
recycle

>>1125236
Only if I don't have to pay

>>1124656
If those are all the tools you have I'd just glue em together side by side (obviously dry fit first to make sure theres no gaps; use hand planer)

maybe screw a plank on either side of the table across the direction the planks run in, keep them all together and divide the weight somewhat.

As for legs, either buy some you just screw on or glue some planks together and some angle brackets to mount them.

Entirely off topic

Is there software for mechanical systems? I've been on a binge looking up gears and wood projects and I'd like something to play with besides a bike and Legos

Some sort of simulator that takes into account different variables, not just a Unity sandbox. Basically, in addition to watching different systems on YouTube and books, I'd like to see them for myself, and I'm already interested in getting a dirt bike to study but until then and for everything beyond, I'd like something virtual

>>1125224
Well, first of all, what's a transformer? Its a coupled inductor.

So increasing the number of turns on the primary of the transformer increases its inductance and hence its reactance at a given frequency, reducing its reactive load on whatever is driving the primary when no power is being drawn by the secondary.

In practical transformers, the number of turns in the primary, and as a result the secondary, are a careful optimization between core losses, copper losses, operating frequency, and size.

Operating frequency can have a dramatic effect on how much power you can stuff through a transformer of a given size. For example, an old-school "wall wart" that's perhaps 2" cube can put out maybe 10 watts. The same size wall wart operating at 400KHz can easily handle 85 watts (Example: Apple Macbook power adapter). Newer switching power supplies operating in the 2MHz range could probably push this to nearly 200 watts.

See: http://finsix.com/dart/

This is possible because the transformer's high operating frequency reduces the number of turns required in the transformer primary. Less turns means a shorter length of wire, and less resistance. Less resistance means less heat dissipation for a given amount of power, and as a result, more power.

Here's the whole design process, written-up by a company that makes transformers:

http://www.coilcraft.com/pdfs/doc627_Power_transformer_design.pdf

Are there any services like shapeways but for CNC? Dirt cheap, no quality assurance, stuff like that.

Or is there a cheap router I can get for cutting plastic?

>>1124410
'Ssup /diy/,

I'm interested in camping, and intend to start with as much gear as I want, and slowly take it down as my not dying the the woods skils increase. Anyway, a thing everybody agrees on is that a good knife is an invaluable tool, so I wanna make or forge my own.


So what do I need, guys? Any good guides? I guess I'm looking for somebody to outline what I need to do from setting up any facilities I need, gathering materials and actually making it. I'm OK with my hands, but only when I have a guide to follow.

So,can any of you give me hints of where to look?

>>1125792
>wants to go innawoods
>practice survival tactics
>first equipment choice
knife made by novice

>>1125807
Kek, obviously I'll be keeping a backup knife. Also likely won't be going alone, so whoever comes will all have knives. When I eventually get down to lighter pack weights, obviously I'll have a proper knife on me. But for now I'm interested in making and using my own, just for the hell of it, and to see how long it lasts.

>>1125810
In that case... >>1121147

i'm moving a wall back about 3 feet. The floor joists are running perpendicular to the wall i am moving. So i think it is holding some of the weight of the house. My plan is to build the new wall and then tare out the old. My question is do i have to take out the lath and plaster so the new wall goes to the floor joist? Or can i just go over it?

>>1126002
Your floor is made of lathe and plaster?
Wtf?
If a wall is load bearing moving it is pretty much as bad as removing it entirely, especially if e.g it's supporting a break in the joists above.

>>1124410
hello

does anyone have any suggestions for some good books on embroidery?

>>1126011
its not on a break, and the wall/top plate is already pretty chewed up from where they ran HVAC. The lath and plaster is on the ceiling, the floor joists of the second floor. It's a run about 7 feet.

>>1126013
You mean the floor joist of the floor above. I.e the ceiling joist of the room your in.
If you cut all the lathe so the head plate is touching the joist there won't be anything holding up the lathework any more? I guess you could put in a whole load of noggins if you were desperate. I wouldn't bother just fire it up.

>>1126028
thanks, didn't think about what is going to hold the lathe up if i cut it out.

>>1126012
Not gonna lie I was at the library the other day and they had like 3 or 4 books on embroidery that were old but informative. I can't remember the name so I'm of no help there, but maybe go to the library and search by subject matter?

any pipe welders here ?

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I am building a 1:1 model bike frame out of pvc pipes. I need a strong way to bond the tubes together. What should I use? I'm making it from pvc because I can't weld but I want to make a full sized bicycle prototype. It won't need to support any weight, I just don't want it to fall apart

>>1126269
Pvc cement with regular fittings

If you switch between the drill and driver mode on a combi drill, what changes in its workings? I know hammermode means a forward punch to knock through the hard rocks but I don't understand what's dofferent between drilling or screwing. They don't have an impact function for screwing so .... Why?

>>1126606
>drill and driver mode
Driver mode engages a 'clutch' of sorts.
It's more like a torque wrench that slips when the setting is reached.
Fewer stripped/broken screws if set properly

Drill mode locks the 'clutch'
If the drill bit becomes seized in the hole the motor will stop from lack of power or the drill will jump from your hand.

>>1126622
Would the driver mode be safer for drilling as well then so that the clutch would slip instead of you hurting yourself?

Also, I'm trying to compare a combi drill's power to that of an actual hammer drill but on the combi drills they don't specify the impact energy?

Like a Makita DHR243 has like 2J impact energy(according ot original folder, some websites claim 2.4J) at 4700 impacts per minute, but how much does a DHP458 combi drill from makita have? They don't tell you that.

The water valve to my toilet won't turn off all the way. Because a trickle always gets through, the tank gets somewhat full. Should I break out the pliers for leverage and just wail on the fucking thing, or is there something I should look into first? Short of that, what's the cheapest and safest product I can put in the tank to completely and totally dry it out?

This is a problem because the wax seal around the bottom has worn out and I occasionally wake up in the morning stepping in fucking toilet water. I tried to enlist in my dad's help to replace it but he won't bother because it would require effort.

>>1126784
get all material necessary before beginning
wrenches that fit
wax ring
replacement bolts (just in case)
slip joint pliers
putty knife
newspaper or bag
paper cup
towels
plunger

remove nuts on anchor bolts
shut water off to entire house
flush toilet and hold handle to allow all that will empty out of tank
use paper cup to pick up as much as you can and dump into bowl
use towel to soak remaining in tank
squeeze/wring out into bowl
use plunger to push as much water as possible out of bowl
use towel to soak up remaining
wring towel into bathtub
place towel under supply line
disconnect supply line
lift toilet off bolts
clean wax off flange
clean wax off bottom of toilet
if bolts are reusable, place new ring
set toilet back into place
connect supply line
tighten nuts on bolts
turn water to house back on
check for leaks
fix leaks - check again
flush toilet
check for water in floor
dry floor after flush with no overflow means you're good to go

>>1126809
It's not the procedure itself that's giving me pause at the moment but the fact that the shut off valve isn't, well, shutting off the water. It's severely cutting off the flow (to the point where I can hear the pressure and what sounds like a pipe shaking in the wall), but there's still a small enough flow that the tank fills right back up again given enough time.

I wonder if this might be because it's using one of those toto gravity flushing mechanisms instead of a traditional ballcock, but I have absolutely no idea. Without the ability to empty the tank and keep the water from running though, I can't really follow through with the rest of the job.

>>1126813

all the toilets i've ever seen have some kind of overflow protection, so if the shut off valve leaks, its not a problem.

How to Replace a Toilet's Overflow Tube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkOFFYHZFBU

>>1126813
>It's not the procedure itself that's giving me pause at the moment but the fact that the shut off valve isn't, well, shutting off the water.
>>1126813
>Without the ability to empty the tank and keep the water from running though, I can't really follow through with the rest of the job.

Did you miss the part where I said >>1126809
>shut water off to entire house

cool idea to make a simple chandelier with three lightbulbs?
I'm sick of bumping my head on this shit already

http://www.jago24.de/en/diy/power-tools-and-machinery/soldering-iron-station-with-accessories.html
What could possibly go wrong?

>>1127102
I dont know anything about soldering but I'm guessing the price is the indication of how shit it is?

>>1127164
I couldn't find any reviews on it anywhere, turns out that's because it's a unit that gets rebranded as something else every few years. Doesn't seem like it'd be worth the hassle.

Besides what I've read tonight I don't know shite about soldering either.

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Hey all. I'm trying to replace a broken kitchen faucet. It's pretty old and I can't figure out how to take it out. It's stuck pretty fast to the sink. There were two little plastic prongs or whatever that I thought might be securing it but I broke those off and still nothing.

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>>1127202

>>1127202
>>1127205
Those little black spots that look like a flat head would fit in, are where I broke the plastic pieces off of

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>>1127202
>>1127205
>>1127207
Pic up top

I have a jet torch that I made that is very similar to this. I have a brass plug with a #57 hole drilled into it to act as my venturi and I'm concerned about it melting when I light the torch a certain way or allow the flame to travel up the tube due to back pressure. On one hand, I can light the torch at the end of the tube and get a nice blue flame that doesn't make much noise but doesn't "jet" out the flame. Conversely, I can light the torch near the air holes closer to the plug and the torch will become relatively loud and begin heating up the entire assembly while jetting out the flame. I also have a likely irrational concern for the flame traveling backward through the hose to the tank, but I am mostly just concerned about the rubber hose connection potentially melting.

tl:dr what's the best flame characteristic I should go for in my torch and where should I light it/maintain the flame?

>>1127169
Soldering is shit easy. Just about any soldering gun will do so long as you use the appropriate flux, clean the tip, and remember to heat the joint and not the wire.

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>>1127223
Forgot pic

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There's no Harbor Freight thread..

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-gal-13-hp-100-psi-oilless-hotdog-air-compressor-69269.html

Opinions on this? All I'd be using it for is drying parts after I clean them (bicycle parts, usually) and occasionally inflating a tire or correcting the tire pressure on my pickup. On sale for $39.99, is it worth it or am I going to rage at the thing when it dies in a week or two?

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>>1127273
oil less is always shit
I know its twice as much but the oiled one is a real winner. I have had one for years and the only issue with it is the oil gets too thick in the cold and you need to warm it up a bit to get it started.

>>1127278
Dunno about the oilless, but these are tanks. I found one in the trash years ago that some idiot had seized after not putting oil in. Also most of the cooling fins on the motor were broke off. I broke it loose with a wrench, put oil in it, and have been running it since. Tires, light air tool, even some paint spraying (with separator).

>>1127278
More like 3 times as much.

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>>1127202
>>1127205
>>1127209

>>1127273
For the use you described this should be fine.
$40 is CHEAP so you shouldn't expect too much.
That's about the price of a cigar lighter plug-in inflater.

>>1127223
>I can light the torch near the air holes closer to the plug and the torch will become relatively loud and begin heating up the entire assembly while jetting out the flame.

That's because it's burning inside the mixer tube.
You should light it at the end (far right) like a normal person.

>>1127209
>nice blue flame that doesn't make much noise but doesn't "jet" out the flame

pressure of the fuel source
venturi orfice size
air intake size
air intake position relative to venturi position
length of mixer tube
all have an effect on the flame produced

>>1127223
>I made that is very similar to this

That may be the problem
Make it EXACTLY like the drawing or expect different results than those made from the drawing.

>>1127336
FWIW their usual price is more than double that; there's a coupon to get it for $40. Unless it literally falls apart the first few times I used it, I figure it's hard to go wrong.

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>>1127341
Answered my question, thanks. The torch works and I can get up to 2700 degrees plus with it in my foundry, but I was just wondering what the preferred method for flame control was. Obviously a change in design that deviates from a drawing is going to change specs, but I have a limited availability of tools and supplies, so I had to make do. Out of curiosity, do you have a burner of choice? I might make another one when my foundry cracks so I can have a dual setup. Pic related is first casting.

Would an L-class vacuum cause problems for use with a table saw?

like this one:
http://www.its.co.uk/pd/VC3011L-Makita-Wet-and-Dry-L-Class-Dust-Extractor-_MAKVC3011L.htm

You're supposed to get M-class but it's not that I'm using this everyday, more for hobby projects. Also for just cleaning after shores around the house(gonna renovate the netire thing).

Will it clog really fast or just the blow out that brings out a bit more dust?

I attempted to buy a Bosch PHO 2000 planer, but the DIY shop sent me the older PHO 20-82 instead.

Is it worth making a fuss, or is the older model still gud, and not much different.

Also - any opinions on the Bosch GTS 10 J table saw?

Are there any table clamp vises that can securely hold an object while up to 80 foot-pounds of torque are applied to said object, while not damaging the table in the process?

>>1127544
Just put a cloth or layer of duct tape on the clamps that attach the hi e to the table. Also, try to get a vice that has a larger single clamp or multiple smaller clamps so that the force will be evenly distributed across the surface of the table. Additionally, tighten the clamps and apply the torque to the object slowly so as to not damage your table surface.

>>1127657
Thanks anon. My parents would fucking kill me if I damaged their furniture.

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>>1127660
Yup. Additionally, pic related is exactly what you don't want, because all the force of the clamp is being centralised to one location on the bottom. If you could get a wooden block on the bottom to evenly distribute the force this sort of vice might work. Again, tighten slowly and only as much as you need.

>>1127675
I'll keep that in mind. I've got plenty of time to find a vise, given that I haven't even bought a barrel or upper yet. I'll probably take a look at what Home Depot has this weekend.

Has anyone ever made a height adjustable table? What's the best way to make the base?

Where the fuck do I get cheap wood in Australia?

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So I am a complete novice who wants to built an off the grid "small home" in Alaska and have a fundamental idea of what I want the end result to be in a non-technical sense, but would feel comfortable paying a professional for a 2-D design and "build by numbers" sort of schematic.

I have help to get as much DIY as I can, including an guy who can read and direct based on blueprints, but can't design for shit and is clueless about the "eco/traditional" techniques I am using.

My question is basically what should I expect to pay and what profession I be looking for? The only modern utility would be plumbing and some manner of boiler. They don't need to be in the area I am building in, I just need them to make the template for me on the technical end and maybe give a little bit of industry guidance.

Hi /diy/, I want to make my own planar magnetic drivers. My question is, would a carbon fiber fabric be a suitable material for the diaphragm? And would CA glue work for adhering the coil to the carbon fiber?

What's the best way to get a nice diffuse lighting in a long, thin room with a low ceiling? It currently has two pendant lights which I bang my head on (I'm 6'3") and I don't really like having specific light sources in my eyeline.

>>1127890
you are looking for an engineer.

>in Alaska

ho boy

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>>1128121

pic related along the long walls

second thought:
install crown molding 1-1/2" below ceiling
install led strip lights just above and behind molding

>>1128165
Thanks, I am actually redoing the walls and ceiling and do like LED strips so the molding idea is probably the way I'd go (I'd completely forgotten until you mentioned it).

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what would be the best way of mounting these things in 1/2 inch thick plywood? They come with nuts to fasten them into holes, but the plywood is too thick for the switch's threads to go all the way through

>>1128183
Drill a hole bigger than the nut, but only 1/2 way through from the back.
_
_|__
___|
_|

>>1128201
>Drill a hole bigger than the nut, but only 1/2 way through from the back.
Then drill the center to clear the switch threads.

>>1128201
I'll give it a shot. Hopefully I won't go full retard and bore all the way through with the larger bit. Thanks

>>1128236
use masking tape to mark the depth on the drill bit

>>1128251
I tried it, and there wasn't enough clearance on the other side to put a spade bit big enough for the nut. Luckily the button seems to hold itself in pretty well even without the nut

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I found an old bench grinder with a broken foot and thought I'd try to fix it, wanted to open it up as much as I can to take a look at the inside and maybe clean it out replace some wires if neccesary.

I got as far as pic related but I don't think I can dissassemble it any further.

Any tips or should I not even try?

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Just built a new housing out of MDF for a mini-itx board, powered by pic related

The housing I built is completely wood and plexiglass with no metal contacts to the board, and the pico-psu doesn't have a grounding line.

How at-risk is my setup of frying without being grounded?

>>1128657

It looks like you've got it down to the motor itself (grinders aren't much more than a motor and a stand). There really isn't anything you could do inside of it.

I suspect those are press fit, if not also epoxied in place. Odds are you can't take it apart any further without some heavier equipment or breaking it. Possibly both.

>>1128664
>How at-risk is my setup of frying without being grounded?

None. It'll be more subject (and radiate more) EM interference, though. Equipment ground isn't a current carrier or a signal return. It's only for electrical and EM protection.

>>1128657
unless the bearings are crunchy, leave it be and just shoot compressed air into it

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Yo i figured /diy/ would know more about tools than /p/ so here goes.

What type of tool can be used to unscrew the ring in the pic? It's only got two indents circled in red to latch onto. So far the only thing I could find are pin spanners or something, which don't seem like they fit the job. The item in question is a camera lens, and the opening of the ring is around 1.5 inches.

>>1128716
cut a piece of thick aluminum sheet and trim it with a file until you can use it to turn the ring

>>1128749
or if you feel reckless, use a hammer & chisel to tap it so it turns

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>>1128749
>>1128751
lol sounds a bit reckless. found what i was looking for though. literally just called a "DSLR spanner"

Looks more like a precision tool. Don't want to scratch the glass.

>>1128716
Use 2 regular screwdrivers that the blade (thickness) fills the slots well. Hold them in place.
Have a second person use a third screwdriver or other leverage tool between the two screwdrivers to unscrew it.

>>1128666
>>1128708


Just what I thought, thanks for confirming

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Hi!

Couple of questions regarding heatsinking TO220 package.

What size screw is optimal for mounting? M3? M4? (those are available at the local shop)

It doesn't have a thread inside the hole so do I just force a bigger than 3.2 screw in or do I need to create the thread beforehand with some tool? OR should I use a smaller screw like 3.0 and put a nut on the backside?

And finally: the heatsink has mounting pins for PCB... what size drill is optimal for holes? The exact size of 2.3 for a very tight fit or larger?

Sorry if this all seems stupid, but I'm truly at a loss here.

>>1128753
That's a cool tool. Thanks for posting. I like the control it offers.

>>1128925
>What size screw is optimal for mounting?

whatever fits.

>do I need to create the thread beforehand with some tool?

it's called tapping, and no you shouldnt do it, coz you might break the thing. use a nut.

>mounting pins for PCB... what size drill is optimal for holes?

whatever fits. snug or loose shouldnt matter coz the solder will hold it in place (usually)

>>1128927
Thanks for the quick answer!

I was wondering about the PCB hole size... if it's very tight it's mechanically robust, but at the same time if it's a bit more loose perhaps solder will fill the gaps and that would be even better... idk, this might be a complete non-issue, but I just wanna be sure.

>>1128929
>this might be a complete non-issue

all your worries are non-issues. there are a lot more fragile parts to worry about than a heatsink.

>>1128933
>all your worries are non-issues.
Yep, the tendency to overthink simple things is strong in me.
>there are a lot more fragile parts to worry about
Wish you hadn't said that lol.

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I'd like to add a window/crawl through space in this camper I am going to buy. My current camper shell has a sliding window that matches to the one on my truck cab, so I can enter the camper through the front.

Obviously this is just solid wood and I think aluminum. I've been reading up on similar things people have done, and I think the almost always just put in a sliding window that matches the cab window. The other possibility I guess would be just cutting out an area and then sealing it to the cab window with a boot - I know people have done this when they just remove both the cab and camper windows.

I'm pretty clueless about this stuff but hopefully will have a friend to help. I think the common sense thing would be to add a sliding window, but I'm hoping someone here may be able to suggest the best way to go about this or something I haven't thought of. There are plenty of guides to adding a window to a camper/rv/van so I can just follow those then.

Thanks

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Should I lubricate this all thread rod before using a die on it?

how many amps can gauge 2 jumper cables handle at 115v?

>>1129198
cutting oil is best but if you dont have any motor oil would do.

why are you chasing a threaded rod with a die anyway? are your nuts undersized?

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>>1129210
>are your nuts undersized?


I want to fix DC motors (wired with reverse polarity so they rotate the same direction from the same power source) to each end and use a stationary nut as an electric position-adjuster on a flywheel. The die is getting the threads looser and smoother to reduce the required torque. I'm mostly learning as I go, so I don't know all the terms

>>1129219
ah, well to save you some trouble in the future, when you buy threaded rods they come in grades and generally speaking the cheapest ones come from china and are already loose

Is there a way to remove the blue lines on lined paper?

Notebook paper is cheap in texture and price but I need the lines to fuck off

>>1129219
>>1129252

Also, depending on budget, an acme screw will do better, but cost a fair bit more. A ballscrew would be better still, but, again, pushes the cost even higher.

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>>1129199
rated for 125A but could probably handle twice that for a very short period.

problem will probably be at the clamps - they are bad about not making good contact

>>1129299
>Notebook paper is cheap in texture and price but I need the lines to fuck off

Recycled copy paper is cheap in texture and price and doesn't have lines.

>>1129360
As long as they make a good enough conection that i can run some tools and start working its fine

Is there any way to un-glue dovetail joints?

>>1129299
1) Water (the sheets will bend
2) just.. buy blank paper? You'll more often find them in the art section, and if you don't care, just get a good hole punch and $2.50 ream of printer paper, and binder of course.

Any tips on small batch PCB making?

Is chink cheaper / better or should I look at doing it myself with toner transfer? What software do you use? Also do you use breadboard or wirewrap for prototyping?

>>1129466
>batch pcb
That's not really descriptive. 5-10 you could still do pretty easily using etching at home, it would just take more containers.

Breadboard is better for prototyping, no question. The bigger question is how to optimize your layout if its a sort-of original circuit. Most schematics/diagrams you'll find have pins randomly around a central chip, and not actually in numerical/spatial order.

>>1129476
Anywhere from 1-5. Its all custom stuff based around arduino nano's

What is the difference between cad and CNC?

What is the best option for modeling things of wax or wood at largest 6"x6"x6"

>>1129499
Fine resolution (I think that's the term for accuracy ) would be neccesary

I replaced the screen on my phone, but I keep getting ghost touches on it. What are some things that I could try to fix this?

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i want to make channel milled balisong handles out of solid copper ive melted from scrap. obviously copper is very soft so i would like to work harden it so it doesnt just bend and deform. i would take the copper slugs i have and cast them into a square bar that i would then mill. would it be easier to go about this before or after milling it out? how would i go about it?
>youre not allowed to make weapons here
i just want handles.

Is it feasible to shine a laser through an OLED screen to laser project a shape or text being displayed on said screen?

>>1129499
CAD (Computer Aided Design) is a tool for designing/modeling things, while CNC (Computer Numeric Control) is a method of manufacturing things

>>1129516
hnnng

are you a fellow flipper?

>>1129516
definitely cast it before you mill it.

>>1129516
id suggest to harden before skeletonizing ect

it will make the structure stronger in the end result

def have a harder steel for the blade if its a worker

i love copper/brass myself as a EE

>>1129552
yep just an amateur enthusiast that likes to build things

>>1129554
not sure if misspoke or being a smartass

>>1129555
i probably wont skeletonize because i want a stupid heavy knife for novelty reasons and too see how it changes flipping characteristics. i wanted to do the blade in hardened copper as well though i didnt ask because i figured it would be easier to harden a thin bar vs the thick square for the handles.

>>1129522
So I'd model something with a cad program then transfer to a CNC program to make the machine output it?

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So I built some stuff out of plywood and painted them with this stuff (water based).

When it dries it feels it has a rubbery/latex feel to it.

I'm sure there were plenty of better paints I could have used but I wanted it to be sun and water resistant.

The stuff I've painted will be transported around a lot so I fear the soft paint will get marked to shit in no time.

>QUESTION:

What clear coat (if any) can I use on this? It doesn't have to be rock hard but just something to give a bit of protection.

Thanks senpaitachi

>>1129673
it will always stay soft. thats what the coating is designed for. will scuff but won't chip.Has it fully cured?

>>1129678

ok yeah I guess that's ok. I'll see how it goes. Too late to do anything now.

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>Buying metal in Australia
Where's the cheapest place to get sheet/bar/rod/tubing?
Specifically 310x130x3mm plate
stainless or aluminum. I want to replace some plastic parts of my RC car

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Where can I get one of these? Specifically a breakout box for AC mains. The box should close for safety reasons.

Alternatively, where can I get the parts (i.e. the box with colored clips) to make one. Obviously I'm not stupid enough to use this in a permanent installation, this is for test purposes only.

As seen in the video: https://youtu.be/t_yfT5NJqAs?t=94

>>1129774

looks like BigFatassClive has found a new way to shill his shitty channel here.

>>1129774
http://www.cliffuk.co.uk/products/tools/quicktest.htm
In the UK you can probably find them on farnell, rs, rapidelectronics. In the us I don't know but they do make different colours for different systems.
You will find them on eBay for twice the price probably

>>1124410
/g/ here, just assembled my own ergonomic adjustable desk. Now it's fully working and everything, but I've been wondering about what material could I cover it up with in order for it to be really nice at touch, and, preferably not needing mouse pads. Currently it's just raw wood.

>>1129904
also, it would be nice to have some kind of covering on the sides, in order for my kids to not make a hole in their tiny heads while playing around the house and stumbling on my desk. Living in europe, if that helps.

What's a good CAD software for woodwork planning and development for diy/home projects?

I want to make a mold and use it to cast a plastic that won't warp or melt below 120 degrees C or higher. Can anyone point me in a direction?

>>1126260
No, but there's a few pole smokers.

Is this the place to go if I need info on using enamel paints? I've got some automotive enamels that I could use on metal signage, but I don't know how I should apply it, how many layers, etc.

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I have a wooden table and some chairs I bought and I plan on spray painting them. The table has already been sanded down to bare wood but the chairs still have a glossy finish on them (no paint or color stain) Do i need to strip or sand the chairs before I spray paint them?

>>1130258
I would say so. Typically, a rougher surface will, to a point, help the primer to adhere to the wood.

>>1130258
>>1130267
some light sanding should be fine

Any advice for working mdf without a router?

>>1130121
sketchup

Where do you get m2 or similarly small machine screws?

>>1125408

If the pieces do have a little mismatching curve, and it's not bigger than your saw kerf, you can match them by clamping them together side-by-side and running a saw down the middle. (or if it's 2x your saw kerf, by doing it twice, although it gets to be a real hassle.)

Do this with a brand new sharp-as-hell blade.

Anyone know where to get the woodworking plans from woodgears.ca for free?

>>1130864
>woodworking plans from woodgears.ca for free
fuck off

>>1130864
You can find the Pantorouter plans if you google for them

>>1130691
Ebay. Just bought $50 worth of nuts/bolts/washers.

That is, if you local places don't have them cheaper. But they don't usually carry small stuff.

Does anyone have experience using rice glue or other "simple"/natural glues for bookbinding? I'm interested in making a few small-size journals, and I'd like to do it as simply as possible. In the production of high-quality shamisen today I know they still use rice glue to adhere the skin to the instrument, so I figure it might work for this.

Is there any particular expertise in installing a door knob?

I have some basic experience and another person to help me who also has similar basic experience.

I figure it can't possibly be worth paying someone else to do it, though. Is there anything I need to know before I go out to buy a door knob?

It's an exterior door so I don't want to fuck this up.

>>1130875
Calm down Matthias, I'm not paying 20 fucking dollars for your bandsaw plans.

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So I'd like to run a radio broadcast around my house. My goal is to just have it reach around my property (~1200 sqft) so I can get music in the yard, shower, etc.

I have a basic understanding of how radio works, there's a couple things hanging me up and some things I need cleared.

Outline of my plan would be to hook a RaspberryPi up to my server either ethernet or wirelessly to handle my music collection, and have it output to some Chinese knockoff FM transmitter and tie that output into a line of 14-3 copper wire running up the middle of my house.

I guess the spot I need help in is would installing linux and Ncmpcpp + mpd work on the Pi?
Am I missing anything or is this a decent basic plan?

Would these work for faraday EMP proof box for solar panels and radios
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AGJOMZ8/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0058HVJF0/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008PA3216/

all dimensions are fine and I'll be testing if the foam is conductive or not -- will also be wrapping electronics in anti static bags sealed with electrical tape, the ammo can seal will be padded with aluminum tinfoil and wrapped with aluminum tape and I was planning on grounding the tin to a radiator would this work?

>>1131037
If there's already a knob you're replacing it's just remove old, install new. If there isn't a hole, get a jig from Lowe's or whatever you have locally. Then read the instructions with that and the knob. Then follow them of course.

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Is there some way I could add a bronze/brass colour to this bezel?

Some kind of sandpaper or something?

It is made of aluminium.

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Doing a restoration of a 50s house we own. While examining some pipes in the basement I found a ton of scraps in the floorboards. Not so sneaky construction workers. And some asbestos tile scraps

Anyways turns out the house came with plastic wall tiles and trim. Currently now the walls are white painted drywall. Any reason to try to find some plastic tiles or just go to ceramic?

>>1131201
aluminium can be anodized

>>1131223

why would you want plastic tiles? no.

>>1131241
It's a smartwatch that isn't 100% waterproof so I doubt it will be happy being immersed in liquids.

I also don't have any kind of adjustable power supplies or chemicals needed for that.

>>1127842
Outside Australia. Most Australian wood is toxic and liable to give you cardiac problems, make you go blind or give you cancer.

Is it a viable idea to cut old freezers into panels and use them as an insulation? What issues would there be?

>>1131546

why not just buy foam panels? jesus christ

>>1131546
Yeah seriously just sheets of foam are cheap af and you have way less work with em.
Also, in many refrigerators they just pump some shmoo into sheetmetal and that turns to foam. Quality is shit.

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How the FUCK do I draw the plans for this armrest? I was thinking of a slight curve here but i can't get it right.

>>1132100

use a piece of cardboard for a mock up

>>1132115
Been doing that, shit's still a struggle.

>>1132117
maybe you just suck

copy someone else's design

>>1128664

Seconding this anon: >>1128666

I would also add that those power supplies don't offer much protection for the electronics you power with them. Where a proper ATX power supply has a nice set of DC/DC converters with galvanic insulation, the smaller ones don't. A power surge usually just kills the PSU in a regular computer. In your case, a power surge would most likely kill your equipment as well.

I would also like to add that in many cases it's best to avoid grounding. This is typical for 12VDC with combined ground and negative (Such as car stereos an similar stuff).

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Trying to fix this pair of head phones. Have no idea what I'm doing. Have tried twisting the wires together and no sound. Do I have to solder before I can figure out if they work, or are they just dead?

>>1132599
They have enamel insulation, just twisting won't do shit. Typically lead free soldering temps will strip the enamel away as you solder.

>>1132610
Okay cool. do I have to get it up to temps, then solder? Or just solder it on and go? Also, is lead based solder okay? I have some lead free, but I have much more lead based solder available.

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Where can one find such a thing? I need it for a robot I'm building.
It's basically an axle support to mount the wheel to the chassis, the axle could be a rod or a screw.
Pic related

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sup /diy/, just a simple question
I'd like to paint something on the back of this faux leather jacket I have, it's 100% polyester with a polyurethane coating. I need to know what kind of paint would be best, I'm just going to do a simple design in white, and I want to try to protect it after.

tl;dr: want to paint on faux leather jacket, what type of paint should I use and how can I protect it once it's done?

>>1132682
Banggood.

>>1124410

>totaled my truck after slapping a bull elk at 70mph
>insurance gave me way more than it was worth
>no longer need a big truck, sold my camper years ago
>bought a crappy little Tacoma
>can't see shit at night
>really concerned about hitting something again

The plan is to strap a shit ton of LED strips to the fronts and sides and then wire them to separate switch so I can turn have just front, just sides, both, or neither. I can manage the wiring parts, but I'm not sure if I can power them all. How do I go about figuring how much juice such lights would take, and how much extra I can pull before killing my truck.

Also assuming I need more juice, is it as simple as putting in a new alternator or do I have figure out how fit an additional battery in my truck (I would only run the lights while the truck is on so I'm pretty sure the battery is unnecessary, but I'm not entirely sure how it works).

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I'm taking an intro machining class in university. We're doing basic shit on the school's lathes and mills. I was given a couple part diagrams with with various tolerances in the +/-0.001-0.003" range.
How do I hit this with shitty measuring tools and sloppy machines? All the calipers and micrometers in the lab are beat to shit and are frequently a few tenths off from each other. The machines are fucked, like the lathe's have visible runout and the hand wheels have to be spun like a half turn before the tool will start feeding, and even then the feed is really more of a suggestion than anything reliable.

My general QTDDTOT as a newbie with a tight budget trying themselves at woodworking is this:

Are there budget brands that you can trust and others you would avoid like the plague? Preferably brands you get in Europe.

I have a decent drill, I'm missing a table saw I can afford (200-400 Euros) and even a Random Orbital Sander of some description in the long run (would be great if under 100).

I'm also spacially challenged shall we say :P so maybe someone can give be some budget brands to trust with those two tools and other which I should avoid like the plague. Thanks!

>>1133190
Avoid like the (one of hundreds of plagues that have happened): new tools.

Buy: shit you find good reviews for, but someone else bought and took the hit on, few years ago. You know, used. Get reviews on tools, then buy some that are a couple years old from someone else that didn't need them then gave up and decided to sell.

If you must have new for reasons, get a better job, or figure out how to buy Porter Cable (don't know if available in eerop.)

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Can anyone tell me how to remove this pin in center of pic related, or at least tell me what it's called so i can google it? tia

>>1133217
Nvm looks like i need a roll pin punch

>>1133098
>webm
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHH

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>>1133226
you cannot stop this, anon

>>1133219

Any steel rod of the right diameter will work. Even if you just find a nail and grind it down. You don't "need" any special punch.

>>1133098

I'm no machinist, but is it supposed to get that hot?

and on the machinist note, I am drilling out some sections of birch logs for my boss to make candles out of, but my $80 forstner bit won't touch the damn things so I have be peck drilling them out on the drill press and then using the side of the drillbit to cut away material and round smooth out the sides. I know there is an actual tool for smoothing over sides, but for the life of me I can't remember what it is. so, whats it called?

>>1132682

>Obtain metal plates and ball bearings
>Drill holes into metal plate
>Bend metal plate into a "U" shape
>Bend smaller metal plate into "C" shape
>The shapes should fit the bearings snugly between them
>Flatten the ends of the plate outwards so the holes are able to bolt onto robot evenly
>affix both plates around bearings
>insert axle through bearings
>affix to robot

>>1133041
LED light bars for cars are cheap. Just get the bar and a wiring harness

>>1133286

I'm...not entirely clear what you're getting at.

You're saying you can't drill through this log at the size you need (which is odd to begin with; birch isn't that hard), so you're drilling with a twist drill, and using that as a ghetto end mill to enlarge the hole? And you need a tool to smooth out the hole after it's roughly the right size?

If so, what you're looking for is a reamer.

But I'd look into why the forstner isn't working, first. A reamer the size I suspect you need is going to be pricey, and there's no reason you shouldn't be able to bore through birch with a cheap spade bit, much less a forstner.

>I'm no machinist, but is it supposed to get that hot?

There are actually certain machining techniques that partly derive their cutting power from getting a ceramic cutter extremely hot. Those are usually reserved for superhard alloys, and this is not one of those situations. So uh...no. No it isn't.

Can 1cm thick pvc survive a 20lbs of impact weight distributed on a 1inch surface area?

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I want to have a discussion about making homemade power racks. Would here or /fit/ be the better place to discuss it?

Looking for people who have experience and what they thought of making it DIY vs buying one off the shelf.

>>1133378
Making your own is very dangerous.

>>1133390
As long as you do not cut corners it would be no more dangerous than assembling an off-the-shelf kit.

>>1133340
>which is odd to begin with; birch isn't that hard

I thought that too, but I'll be damned if it isn't hard as a rock. I just got done working with hickory and I swear that this birch is harder. Anyways I solved my own problem by putting a straight walled router bit in turning the speed way up. Cut the hell out of my hand though, so I still have to find a better way if I do this often.

Hello /diy/. I have a wood sealing question. I'm getting in to building wooden terrariums for reptiles and am not sure the appropriate way to seal the wood. My first that was to use clear marine epoxy but that's pretty expensive stuff. Polyurethane could work but it's a little less resilient to moisture over time than i am comfortable with. I don't want to use paint as i would like to keep the wood grain visible.

I could just skip the seal altogether and install lino on the entire interior. That could be fine if joints are then sealed with silicone to prevent moisture getting to the wood.

Any ideas i've missed? Least expensive and low voc preferred.

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>>1132699
I ended up buying pic related from aliexpress.
>>1133332
It's easier said than done, I don't have a machine shop and bending the plates alone with some degree of precission would be a pain.

>>1133503
>trying to build robots with no access to a machine shop

This is why a roboticist should have a metalworker friend/work partner, anon:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g59fFqa3fmQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCxbD67WhGc

>>1133511
In yuropoorland nobody owns a machine shop.

>>1133518
What a horrible place to live.

Broke a tap and I used a dremel grinder to grind it down flat. Now I want to progressively drill through it starting with small to big drill bits. However, what kind of drill bit should I use? Nothing I have is currently working.

>>1133500
Nevermind. I found the stuff after a dive down the rabbit hole of diy aquarium and pond building. Safest and most durable is a liquid rubber for sealing ponds. Zero voc, too. And not epoxy expensive.

I graduated EE last year and I've been having trouble finding a job or a grad program to get into. Can anyone in the industry recommend some specific skillsets or certifications I could work on to make me more employable?

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I have an area that was filled with pea gravel. Well, over the years the area had begun to fill up with dirt, leaves, and roots. I have scraped about 85% of it and I will use that for another project. My question is, "How do I get up as much gravel as possible, or do I leave what's left and let it work into the ground?" Pic related.

>>1133605
You gotta dig it up and screen it out. Googled DIY dirt sifter for ideas.

It is my destiny. I like this one: http://community.homedepot.com/howto/DiscussionDetail/Soil-Sifter-an-easy-garden-tool-to-make-9065000000004o7

Thanks anon.

What is this circuit?

>>>/g/59024983

My guess is that it turns AC into DC. The triangle thingies make sure that all the AC current goes to the right side and none to the left side, therefore making it DC. I guess the RL thing is there to prevent it from short circuiting when nothing is plugged. Well?

>>1133654

The transformer is a transformer, it steps your input voltage up or down depending

The triangle things are diodes, it's a diode bridge rectifier. It converts AC to DC

RL isn't actually a part of the circuit, not as an actual component anyway, it just represents the equivalent resistance of the load you're outputting voltage to

I am looking to get some thermometers to check the temp of my fridge/freezer and occasionally solutions.

Is something like this the most reasonable thing to get?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-LCD-Thermometer-fr-Refrigerator-Fridge-Freezer-Temperature-50-110-C-AG-/252738083708?var=&hash=item3ad85d1b7c:m:mgjjW67y3WGE78iiZDwskXw

Are there any steps that arnt obvious when pirating solidworks? I don't want to get one of those letters in the mail next month.

What's a good source for EL tape or panels and the power hardware for it? I need material that's at least 1" wide and most of the tapes I've seen are too narrow. How noticeable would the seam be if I laid two pieces side-by-side?

Crossposting from /cgl/, so sorry if this thread isn't the best place to ask. I just figure I'm a lot more likely to get an answer here than over there. Hopefully making my own cosplay with lighting effects is /diy/ enough.

I want to do more woodworking projects. I'm pretty well equipped, enough in the way of hand tools and small power tools to get anything done, and I'm keeping an eye out for the big couple I'm missing on larger stuff, the jointer and table saw. Where do I find good wood at reasonable prices? Domestics or exotics, doesn't matter. All I know about in the area is Lowe's and Home Depot, which both have nothing but twisted up pine, and maybe some oak. I'm North of Seattle, if anyone is familiar with the area.

>>1133772
>I don't want to get one of those letters in the mail next month.

never heard of anyone getting a notice related to software. only the cinema and music industries hire the MAFIAA guys to come after you. unlike media, software companies are relatively Jew-free.

>>1133772

I've never had any trouble with SolidSquad releases

>>1133821
Just Google exotic hard wood.

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hey diy So i wanna make a “massage” custom toy with bluetooth and all the parts have a very small place to fit so i already got an hc-06 bluetooth module and i was thinking for taking these to complete it.
Q1 should i get a 3.3 or a 5v arduino mini.
and most importantly Q2 how do i power it and what kind of battery should i use. I want it to be able to run at max for 10-15 minutes and be rechargeable.

I am only getting the adapter to pass the code after it has it then its not gonna be part of the final build.

>>1133717
should be fine
did you ever take the freezer back cover off to check the coil inside the freezer compartment?

if you're still having problems that's pretty important

>>1133772
You only get caught if you run a company and they come to audit you.

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Where to get pretty twisted pair cables that aren't brazillian dollar audiophile placebo?

Is RF the best way for two arduinos to communicate wirelessly with ease? Need to control a bunch of motors and trying to use the easiest way possible.
Was thinking of this pair
https://www.tindie.com/products/rajbex/433mhz-ask-rf-transmitterreceiver-kit/

>>1133888
Question. Are you asking /diy/ for advice on making a bluetooth vibrator?

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>>1133913

Fleabay has this. You're still paying a couple times more over normal 16 gauge, but you get transparent sleeving in relatively pretty colours.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRUE-16-GAUGE-50-FT-SPOOL-HIGH-DEFINITION-TWISTED-SPEAKER-CAR-HOME-MARINE-WIRE-/131549624999

>>1133917

Is it acceptable for the communication to drop out whenever someone uses a garage door opener etc?

>>1133978
The shipping would cost me more than twice the price of the wire itself, but I guess looking for 'audio' cables at non-audio specific electronics stores is the best approach.

>>1133821
>>1133870

Also drive around townhouse and apartment complexes on the second day of the month. People throw out good wood cabinets and furniture all the time when they move. It'll be some work to get the wood in to useable order but, ya know, free.

>>1133960
pretty much

>>1133978
Thats pretty sick wire actually.

>>1133890
>>1133863
>>1133846
Thanks. I'll just go ahead and do it then.

I'm gonna install a shelf in my shower. I have a mason bit to drill into my tile wall.

What should I use as a sealant so water doesn't get in? Caulk?

>>1134131
I don't know what I'm talking about and you're better off just googling it, but I'd use silicone sealant because I have it laying around.

Just installed a pirated 2017 solidworks. Is it ok to run while connected to the internet?

>>1134226
Just block it in your firewall.
Almost all crack-install-guides include that ffs

>>1134282
block all like 30 exe files? The crack guide doesnt mention it and no guides i found mentioned it.

>>1131578
>>1131720
Because they can be obtained for free and I thought that they would have really good r-value (but maybe thats wrong assumption on my part, the logic being that they keep big temperature difference between the outside and nside constantly) also they are waterproof.

>>1134655
The smart way is to install cracked soft on a virtual machine. I do a clean install, take a clean snapshot, then play with my crack. If no workee, I delete the snapshot.

It's nice to have multiple OS to work with, and you can use a Linux host or Windows host as you prefer. I prefer Linux but need Windows to run AutoCAD and Office.

>>1134655
It is probably fine. If you need to do anything (like go offline) the crack would say so.

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What would be a good way of making my house number more visible for delivery folk, especially at night?

Pic semi-related.

>>1135049
>Pic semi-related.
You're likely to get more related answers if the pic was actually related.

>>1135049
pretty sure the pic is definitely related, go to a hardware store like home depot, ace, mcguckins etc. and find some numbers.

If you dont have an obvious mailbox get one.

Just make sure the numbers are visible and then worry about aesthetics.

>>1135090
>pretty sure the pic is definitely related

Related to what?
It's a fuckin Google image that has nothing to do with him.

>>1135056
>>1135090
I was thinking more something like lighting solutions or glow in the dark numbers/edging or something.

>>1135096
he needs a visible house number and he posted a possible solution.

>>1135104
I've seen lighting solutions but in general people just have them lettered. Don't postmen work with gps now anyways? You have a mailbox right?

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>>33088074
Posted this on /k/, but no answer as of yet.

Upside down picture be damned, but I just glued this chunk of wood that flew off my ishapore when shooting it, and filled the gap with wood putty. How can I make it seamless? I've got a stain marker and a 220 sanding bar.

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>>1135111
Yeah but is not in the most visible spot. I am renting not the owner, but I have more or less free reign to alter things as I want.
Naturally though I don't want to spend a lot of money on fixing something just for the owner to get the asset boost.

This is how it looks up close vs coming up the street.
To add to the confusion the house on the end of this street has their number on this street side but their number is based on the intersecting street. A bunch of delivery people have come up and said they could not find the place because they saw the corner house's number (it is 40 something on that street, whereas the houses on this street are in the 20s) and thought they were on the wrong section of street.

>>1135118
that sucks, you could put an actual sign up if you dont mind the eyesore but other than getting a new mailbox I dont have any simple solutions for you.

Glow in the dark probably wouldn't work very well, but a light might help with visibility. The contrast is pretty bad so even getting white or colored numbers could help.

>>1135110
>he needs a visible house number and he posted a possible solution.
He has a house number he wants to make more visible - especially at night.

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>>1135118
clean the stone just around the numbers so they stand out a little more
get a good quality solar powered garden light and take the led out
affix the led under the top stone so it shines on the numbers (glue/sticky tape)
run wires from the led back to the remote garden light
or
get pic related and position to light numbers at night
(could also remote the cell on pic related)

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Are there any uses for incinerator toilet ash?

A friend of mine has offered me some metal plates he's come across while renovating some place, cause I wanted to build a workbench.

Does it have any significant upsides to wood? I feel like for electrical stuff it might be dangerous with the conductivity and all ...

Probably a dumb question.

I have a water filter for my property which uses polypropylene cartridges.

I replace them every 4 months.

Any idea of a use for the old ones?

I'm trying to fix my dad's old craftsman contractor table saw.

It turns on, and I think the motor runs, but the belt doesn't spin, and then it blows the breaker after about 10 seconds. The belt spins by hand, with some resistance though.

Any idea what it could be?

>>1135220

Get a new motor.

>>1135118
1. Sheet of coroplast
2. bolt to a rail or board
3. write number in luminous tape
4. black flexseal around the edges of the luminous tape to improve day-light visibility and seal tape edges

Are those old Little Giant, Wil-Kro, etc planes that take razor blades useful for small work or are they old-timey memes?

>>1135220
Can you spin the motor by hand? Do you KNOW the motor turns?
Are there any electronics between the switch and the motor? Have a look at that, you'll probably see if that crapped itself.
Can you spin the blade by hand?
Is the belt tightend?

>>1135220
bad capacitor
start circuit centrifugal switch bad

Is brake cleaner a good enough solvent to clean off paint stripper? I'm about to start grinding some shit that I stripped the paint off of and I don't want to start a fire

can I run an automotive relay off a 4s lipo or will it melt? 16.8v.

I could also just throw a resister inline to drop the coil voltage to 12v I guess.

>>1135487
>automotive relay
Charging voltage for the battery is near 15v
You'll probably be fine
Use a couple of diodes inline to drop it if you want.

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>>1135487

>>1135492
>>1135490
Thanks.

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>>1135497
np

Is there a place I can go online for simple metal work that can be shipped to my house?

I basically just need a box mad out of quarter inch steel/aluminum/whatever is cheapest about 2ft. x 1ft. x 4in. with a few holes cut in it and threaded holes for me to put it all together.

Trying to learn geometry that will lend itself to wood working and metal working. Not really sure where to start getting back into it. Was looking at khan academy but it's hard to find the balance between stuff above my limit and 6th grade.

>>1135547
Online? No idea. But locally you most likely have craftsmen, mechanics and the like; those you'll find using Google or a phonebook. Those having apprentices are more likely to do that kind of work for you because it's really basic

Also, getting to know a shop like that is really handy. Did an internship at one a couple years back and I occasionally go there to weld stuff or drill holes bigger than I can do at home

Using Sketchup 2016 is there a way to change the thickness of a line I want to draw? I want to mark lines the same thickness as my table saw blade so my next measurement will be from the true end of the new piece once the first piece is cut.

>>1135620
Nevermind, I'm dumb. I ended up just drawing a 2.4mm wide rectangle and starting my next measurement from the other side. Works good enough.

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What are these connectors called?

>>1135639
bullets

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>>1135666
decided I better offer proof

>>1135405
>>1135390
I can spin it by hand, and it's tight. I'll have to take a closer look at the electronics.

>>1135669

Thanks friend

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I've dried two rabbit pelts, what do I do next to make them soft and sturdy again? I'm making a ushanka of them.

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>>1135669

>PowerPoles
>"bullet plugs"

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I am currently assembling my HTPC and realized that my case has a dent that prevents me from fitting the motherboard I/O shield.

Here are some photos of the dent (bottom right pic is how it should look)

My question what would you guys recommend is a good way to straighten it out? Any particular tool?

Thanks in advance.

>>1136073
needle nose pliers you gimp jesus are you retarded

>>1136078
>needle nose pliers
looks like you are the retard anon
use normal pliers, wider they are the easier it will be to average out the flatness

I'm trying to find some small bearings about the size you would get from roller blades. I don't have any roller blades to dig them out of so short of just buying some any ideas on where else I could find some?

>>1136080
Thanks, it worked pretty well.

what kind of oil should I use to protect tools that won't be used for a long time?
I'm not in America, so I have no idea about brands. Synthetic? Mineral? Vegetable? Viscosity grade?

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I got wd40 on my balls and it burns. I washed it off and it still burns. What do?

I want to put together a desk with just a counter top + legs from ikea. My assumption is that I just need a drill to put the legs on and I should be good. What do you guys think?

Countertop: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60275223/#/40275219

Legs: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30264301/

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tl;dr squeaky all plastic ABS headset. What lube should I use?

I've got one of those G933 Autism Spectrum headsets, and it fucking squeaks. Logitech managed to fix the wireless and ruin just about everything else when they updated the G930. The right ear cup has that crappy sound you get when something all plastic rubs together as it bends, and since it's in a headset, it's right on my ear and loud as fuck. I'm going to open it up and put some kinda goo and/or glue on it, I'm just not sure what to use. What would you guys suggest? I'm thinking purple Loctite on any screws, and then a real thin layer of a light silicone, a silicone grease, or I have some DuPont Teflon stuff that dries up and just leaves Teflon behind. I don't know which I'm more likely to have issues with, still making noise with the Teflon, or one of the silicones either being applied too lightly or slightly leaking out and getting on the ear cup.

>>1136254
bengay can soothe the pain

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>>1136072
>>PowerPoles