come to /diy with problemo

ah sorry for stupid size pic, believe it or not it was on my computer and posted it from there

Install a new fill valve

correct, but only if fill valve kit has a new flapper.

The tank should only fill to certain level based on the float of the fill valve kit (the floaty ball). As the water rises, that ball floats up and when it reaches near the top it closes off the valve.

I would guess you need a new flapper (at least) because it should only fill if that ball is lower and allowing the valve to open. That flapper is what allows water to drain out of the tank.

TL:DR try a flapper first. Its easier and cheaper to replace. And they then to fail when they get old AND its cold as they contract a bit.

>>1119023
Does it just fill up and then what overflow?
Replace the filler probably. Maybe when you use water the pressure drop lets something fuck up. Make sure your water service valve is fully open.

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>>1119046
Don't think i'll be trying myself

>>1119078
which part is the flapper, is that internal? did have a tradesman in the house a while ago and he pretty much straight off the bat said it was the fill valve when i mentioned it to him. Don't know which part is the fill valve either, is it visible in pic?

>>1119087
It just keep's filling and then drain's in to the overflow pipe that's the same height as where it should stop filling, not visible in pic. Did you mention have the water service valve fully open as for when i try to fix it? as i wont be doing that haha.

>>1119326
Just replace the filler stem. It's super easy to do, just turn the water off to the toilet (usually there's a valve on the inlet, under the tank), then flush the toilet, and maybe use something to get the rest of the water out, or just put a bucket under where the filler stem is.

Next, disconnect the water inlet, in most cases it's just hand tight, but you may need pliers. After that, there'll be a plastic nut holding the filler stem to the tank, take that off, then pull the stem out, and put your new one in. It may come with a new flapper, install that if you want, but be sure to clean out under where the old one is, it's a place where sediment can gather and cause the flapper to not close.

Once you get the new one in, simply reconnect everything and turn it back on. They wear out from time to time, and they're super cheap to get, usually under $10.

>>1119326
Actually, looking at that toilet, it seems to have some sort of abnormal bullshit going on. The pushbutton flusher is something I've never worked on. Still though, filler stem replacement shouldn't have anything to do with that part of it.

>>1119342
I'm guessing the filler stem is the complete part on the left right? I was thinking that replacing the whole thing would be the smart thing to do so will most likely do that. Look's fairly simple, and yea will try and clean all of everything that can see and where you said aha. Yea it is some kind of bullshit, i mean the two part's (filler stem + push button flusher) don't look to be connected at all so perhaps work independently of each other? the flusher has some type of holes/groves around the top cut out concentrically. As someone mentioned about a change in pressure perhaps causing it to "run" (as i've taken to calling it) is there an underlying problem do you think? like why is there a change in pressure somewhere affecting the toilet? like say for instance hypothetically if i didn't reattach the water inlet and the problem which causes it to run (which could be just a result of failing valve,stem of course) but say that it's not, how would the change in pressure affect the rest of the system and where would that water go? the toilet must be the last thing in the system connected to sewerage i'm guessing.

Thanks for input/reply's gent's hope i'm making sense.

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>>1119023
why is this all so complicated to everyone?

Needs new ballcock. Period.
He already broke it more, plus:
1. It's overflowing into the fill tube/flush valve
2. The ballcock is responding to water pressure changes, as he said it reacts to running another faucet. That means the antisiphon design has failed.

Looks to me like one of the annoying Korky ballcocks (fill valve)
Replace it with one of the cheap fluidmaster ones.
If you get the fluid master one with leak sentry or some shit, you'd have to break off the rachet part, as I don't think theres a realistic way to connect that chain to a pushbutton flush.


change the ballcock.
Buy a flexible supply, measure from the valve at the wall to the toilet and add a few inches, then get the next size up. 12,16,20 inches likely.


Install cheats: use sponge or shopvac to get any water out of tank left after flush with wall valve off
If for some reason the valve at the wall doesn't shutoff all the way, or doesn't exist, shut off at the water meter.

Should also mention that sometime's when flushing, the cistern doesn't fill back up but that's probably because of the part i've broken (well, wasn't me but) i'm going to go with replacing the stem anon unless replacing the ballcock is all that's required? probably more complicated though, surely i should just replace the stem? about breaking the rachet part which is dependent on a fluid master part as you say, does that mean the part's in my toilet are connected somehow? and yea it already has a flexible supply can't see no obvious way to turn it off so will most likely have to shut off at the water meter. In the UK i think that would mean shutting off the stop cock to entire water supply coming in to the house, but think there is another shut off somewhere after that. This thing fills up from a pipe coming directly from the area boiler is installed behind a wall in another room approximately 5-10 ft away.

>>1119326
The ball thing is probably not shutting the water off. Happened with mine recently, some rubber thing had worn out.

>>1119373
Ignore what I said about the ratchet part. It's only on certain models. Fluid master has several styles of fill valves/ballcocks. Just get the cheapest, it'll look like that pic, or red top with black body if you get the next model up.

Here in the states on houses in the last 50 years or so, code required a main water valve in the house, or right outside. And more recent, every fixture is supposed to have an independent valve (or valves if hot/cold on a faucet etc).

There is also a valve on the water company side of the meter, which is used mainly if they turn the water off and lock it due to overdue bills or noone living there/ no service, and secondly if you have to do work on the pipes between the meter and the house, in the yard for instance.

I suggest turning it off at the meter because if you use the one in the house and there's a problem with the valve, it's your problem and you could end up with a leak or it just might not shut off properly or even get stuck off.
Turn water off at meter so that it's not your problem if it doesn't work right.

I'm not familiar with the meter/main valve setup in the UK, so you will have to look it up if it's not obvious. But just the same as here in the states, the main service valve turns off everything past that. On a job, if there's not a working valve at the fixture I'm working at (faucet, toilet, water heater etc) I personally always use that main valve at the meter rather than the main one inside the house, since here the valve is on the city side of the meter and it's their problem if anything happens. (if it breaks, etc. And if it starts to leak, the customer isn't being charged for the water and it's not leaking into their house)

So in your case:
Buy cheapest fluidmaster ballcock/fillvalve and a new flexible supply.
Turn off water to house, get whatever water you can out of the tank, put a towel under it and swap the supply line and ballcock.
Once it's all back in place turn water back on.

>>1119456
If water level is too high and flowing into the fill tube (that pipe on the flush valve), you twist thing on the side to lower the float which will make it turn off at a lower level.
It's in the instructions.

Do not mess with the flush valve based on what you have said so far. but try and determine the model so you can get a new gasket/washer/whatever it uses, then find instructions on how to change that gasket
Only need to change that IF:
there is water constantly trickling into bowl from tank,
it's hard to flush like it's sticking,
it doesn't seem to let enough water through to flush,
OR
the water is seeping into the bowl from the tank due to poor seal, which will make the level of water drop in tank and ballcock turn on to refill tank.
(It'd just occasionally turn on on it's own like someone had flushed)

that plastic tube next to the center part with the 2 buttons is permanently attached to the rest of the plastic. Don't mess with it aside from clipping the hose from the ballcock into it.

If you need to work on the flush valve, there will be a trick to twist or pull on the main body with the buttons. Look for directions after you identify the model and get a new gasket/seal.


BTW, In your pic it looks like the water is overflowing into the fill tube or is too high, an example of the ballcock not turning off at the right level

>>1119456
No doubt it's a similar setup to what you have in the states regarding main's valve's etc but I'm pretty certain that they don't turn the supply off in any case apart from perhaps if there's no one occupying. If I do decide to try and do it myself I will turn it off at the meter, thanks... don't trust the valve in the house to work properly or not get stuck off like you say maybe even stuck on. If I turn it off at the water meter, what about the water already in the system? will there be a lot of it? we have a tank in the loft/attic as well, i guess running a tap/faucet to see if there's any supply is what I should do?

>>1119463
I don't think it's getting to high or ever was, just continues to flow and immediately drain's in to the fill tube (I guess that's overflow).

Ok I won't mess with it, really don't like messing with plumbing at all anyway ha and I will try to determine the model.

From what you say the gasket does need to be replaced, the water was trickling in to the bowl but... that wasn't always the case it has only been doing that for the last couple of days and... today I tucked a piece of torn up carrier bag under the part (which I think is the flapper) near to where I've taped it and that has stopped it running and the trickling problem. Maybe that give's more of an indication of what is exactly wrong with it.

Doesn't seem hard to flush, Push the button and it does it's thing apart from not refilling when completely emptied occasionally. Haven't noticed the level of water in the tank drop at all.

>>1119600

The plastic tube you mention which I referred to earlier as fill tube (overflow) doesn't look to have anything attached to it so I'm not sure what you mean by clipping a hose to it but maybe that's if the part I replace it with has a hose on it. Sorry if I've just confused thing's there.

And in reply to your last sentence I guess the ballcock isn't turning off at all, it's not until I hold the stem firmly with one hand and pull the flapper up to stop it that it stop's

Thanks for the lengthy reply I'll surely take it all in to consideration.

>>1119023
>happens every time put the washing machine on

Needs new fill valve (like others have said). Plus the house probably needs a water hammer arrestor. To keep other appliances from bumping the lines and causing a weak fill valve to pop open.

>>1120390
ah ok thanks for that, I'm a council tenant in the UK and the goon's they send round almost definitely wont put one of those in without mention. Don't get me wrong I have no axe to grind just pissed off with poor service we get from these people. Have lived here 28 years and the vast majority of that time the rent, council tax etc has been paid out of our pocket's and not inflated number's on a screen. Last year for example I repaired the mould problem on my front bedroom windows, a week or 2 later both my neighbors are getting new bathroom's installed the same week (I think someone noticed). Not like they have lived in there homes half the time I've been here and there homes would of been gutted and updated before moving in anyway, in fact they were. If I suggest to one of these goons an arrestor you can imagine how it might go down. Thing is I wouldn't even try be a smart ass about it, I'm not like that. Reason I haven't got them out to do it yet is we don't like having to burden them with anything yet they take the piss, and if they see a problem well it simply doesn't exist. Like for instance if an arrestor should of been installed along with the new central heating & plumbing when they did that. How much do they cost? Do you think one should of been put in? The bloke who installed our boiler... apparently it was his last day and someone I know thinks he used as little parts as possible (keeping what he could for profit) and doing a piss poor job, which he did anyway.

>>1121066
To be honest the toilet we put in ourselves hence I'm trying to ascertain who's responsibility it is to fix without having to advertise it. There was too many anomalies occurring in the system to think the toilet was at fault and the need for an arrestor could be a factor. Take in to account it worked fine for about 3 years without one (Installed 3-4 years ago) so either part has just failed or turning on flipping washing machine caused it too... Gee Wilikers I don't know maybe someone can elaborate (also they updated our old dilapidated kitchen in 2013 - the only worthwhile thing they've ever done, still haven't figured out the motive) and a clusterfuck of plumbing ensued.