Chemicals thread

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Boeshield T9 baby!

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Also i like slick 50

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>>1118607
>>1118608

What are some things you've used them for?

Ironically I'm sitting in the local pep boys right now. Basically, my power steering pump has been leaking. The claim it's leaked onto my alternator and killed it as well. I call bullshit. If anything, the belt could be slipping on the pulley. I asked them to replace the belt and PS pump. I'm planning on spraying the hell outta the alternator with "electramotive" by CRC. Anyone used this before? Any guesses as to whether the PS fluid could have actually killed the alternator?

>>1118610
Everything. T9 leaves a kinda waxy layer behind which is great because it keeps lubricating when its wet. Slick 50 is similar in that i use it for everything.

Also if you use WD 40 as a lubricant you are retarded. White lithium is my go to for a thick grease. And every shop needs an old bucket of cutting oil.

>>1118615
Huh, wonder if it would work well on my motorcycle chain.

>>1118617
>Also if you use WD 40 as a lubricant you are retarded
This drives me nuts. I can't stand when people do this.

I need to grease up my vice, will that white lithium do the job?

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-Titebond III is my favorite wood glue. Its strong as shit!

-any 2 part epoxy is good. Will connect any material to any material.

-crazy glue, buy the accelerant with it too. Its like a spray that makes it harden up faster. Great for everything. Fast as hell with the accelerant.

-its good to have a tube of graphite dust laying around. Works well for tiny things. Specifically pinewood derby wheels and axles

-BUY ACETONE. Seriously, Buy a gallon of it at ace hardware. Trust me, it has 1000 uses. Its volatile as shit so it evaporates quickly. Great for cleaning metals.

-MEK is good too. Thats Methylethylketone. Always have a can of it.

-Gorilla glue is meh, it foams up and looks like hell. I dont really use it.

>>1118618
It'll work, but you might want a thicker, heavier grease for that. White lithium grease is a pretty good "do-all" grease.

Brake cleaner is a good solvent to spray and clean just about anything.

I'm a gun nut, so I also have hoppes with is just naptha spirits, and gun oil.

When I'm doing actual grimey work, I really like that orange gojo pumice soap. Smells so nice and makes my hands so clean no matter what.

>>1118618
in the promotion video on their website i just watched the guy actually uses it for a bench vice.

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>>1118618
Try the T9 on your motorcycle chain after cleaning it thoroughly. And dont lose any finger tips while cleaning the chain.

For your vice i would just use a light cutting oil. Grease is too messy and it will squeeze out of the threads and what not. You can get a gallon of cutting oil for 20 bucks and you will never run out of it.

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>>1118622
Love that orange GOJO. Smells like orange slushies i used to have as a kid. Painters partner is a close 2nd. Reminds me of when i was at sea. Thats all we had.

>>1118625
People actually run it in first gear while they hold a rag in their hand. Goodbye fingers.
Cutting oil lubricating a vice gear? Interesting.

>>1118625
I'm clearly not an expert, but isn't grease in his application better because it'll last longer on the threads, and stick around a lot longer than oil?

Seems like grease on slow moving parts, oil for fast moving parts, and oil needs to be refreshed once in a while.

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>>1118627
Thats what i would do. Its just a light oil. Works well on metal for obvious reasons. Its easier to clean too. You can also use a copper anti sieze. But that shit gets everywhere and heaven forbid you wash your pants that are covered in it with your old ladys clothes. Mine will never forgive me.

>>1118622
>>1118626
The best I've found is that lava soap. Worked wonders when I was a mechanic and had to clean crap off my body. Had a bar in the shower.

>>1118628
Youre not wrong. i kinda like to have a vice that can really spin for a while when i twist it haha

>>1118621
MEK is the shit that smells like a Worthers candy went on a blender, right?
Love that shit. So useful.

>>1118634
Fuck yeah it is! And its got a great name. MEK. I buy it by the gallon can

>>1118635
Top MEK

What do you anons use it for?

>>1118637
I restore vintage mopeds and people always slap stickers and decals all over them. Fuckers are an absolute bitch to get off, and the paint underneath is usually ruined anyway, so I just go with the nuclear option and strip the whole part and repaint it.

>>1118640
That sucks.
What do you use to repaint? Actual automotive or a rattle can job. I need to keep my car from rusting. The clear coat is shot. Need recommendations for clear coat in a can.

>>1118642
Depends on the condition, but the owner of the CNC shop I work at owns an automotive and enamel paint shop across the parking lot. As long as I pay for materials and do all the setup, I can basically do whatever I need as long as there's a couple open booths. Got lucky, desu.
If it's like a Mobylette or a Puch or something I usually do the whole hog, otherwise it gets the HVLP treatment at home along with some sanding/polishing. I don't remember the exact product line offhand but you can get good quality clearcoat from US Chemical.

>get a pair of Klein linesman pliers
>they are really stiff
>try some oil
>nothing
>try WD40
>nothing
>try Dura Lube ("4x better than WD40")
>nothing
>whip them onto the pavement
>work like a charm

>>1118613
>PS fluid
ps fluid is almost a dielectric (it would take 300000v to pass through) it could have just gunked up but it would not short anything out

>>1118649
i also forgot to say it may have eaten through something but if it is just a motor it should be fine

>>1118648
Based fonz method

That works surprisingly well for a wide range of things. Even electronics.

>>1118648
Percussive maintenance. Its real, but its usually the last resort out of frustration.

>>1118601
Lubricants:
WD40 - general light use lubricant / cleaner / penetrant / water displacer / cutting oil. Jack of all trades deal - versatile but not the best for any job.
3-in-one / other light oil - light lubrication like for door hinges
penetrating oil - for un-sticking stuck things. Clean off or replace with an actual lubricant when done.
white lithium grease - lubricant resistant to weather, washing off, dirt, etc. Good for outside use.
silicone grease - lubricant resistant to heat and chemical attack
PTFE dry lube - For applications where an oil/grease is not suitable.
steel cutting oil - any kind of edged cutting of hard metals. Keep some oil in the cutting area at all times. It should smoke in use - no more smoke means no more oil at the cutting site, or that you’re cutting too slow. Improves cut quality, ease, and speed, and extends life of cutting tools.

>>1118667
Adhesives:
PVA wood glue - general wood. Elmer’s wood glue is inexpensive for interior use, Titebond III is the good stuff (outstanding strength, weatherproof, but can creep under heavy loads like any other PVA).
epoxy - difficult materials, filling gaps (including holes to be re-drilled/tapped). T-88 (suitable for marine and aviation use) has a long working time and outstanding durability.
cyanoacrylate (super glue) - small fiddly things that need to be strong. Rarely used, but good to have for repairs. Buy several of the smallest packs you can find - it goes bad fast once opened.
hot glue - good for soft / porous / flexible materials where mechanical fasteners aren’t suitable. Becomes brittle when frozen. Hot-melt sticks only. I recommend high-performance acrylic, which sets a bit slower but is very sticky and flexible, and soaks into porous materials.
Elmer's Pro Bond Advanced - unusual / difficult situations not suitable for other glues. Strong, tough, flexible, transparent, waterproof. I use it for plastics, ceramics, and a transparent sealer/protector where silicone caulk is not suitable.
contact cement - lamination of most any thin sheets to most anything else. Solvent can damage some things, though. Use ventilation.
rubber cement - non-wrinkling adhesive for paper products. Apply and press together for a light, removable bond or use like contact cement for a stronger more permanent bond.
polyurethane - expands to fill gaps, but is weak unless fitup is perfect. Different brands foam different amounts.

>>1118668
Other:
Goo Gone - removes oil-soluble adhesives, sticker residue, and various gunk. Let it soak for a while if goo doesn’t come off right away.
liquid dish soap - non-abrasive non-solvent degreaser. I keep a spray bottle with soapy water for misc. cleaning.
pumice / abrasive soap - removing grease from skin.
mineral spirits - thins paint, cleans brushes. Wear gloves or it will remove the oils from your skin.
denatured alcohol - removes permanent marker and other light contaminants. I keep some in a small spray bottle.
silicone caulk - seals, sticks things together, dampens vibration, resists heat, cold, and chemicals
acetone - strong solvent / degreaser. Wear gloves and avoid sparks / heat sources.

>>1118667
>pretending that WD-40 and penetration oil are too different things

I had to stop reading your list

>>1118667
>WD40 - general light use lubricant
Wew lad. Didn't you read the thread. At best I use wd to slick something up to get it into place where I don't care if it evaporates after.

>>1118667
>>1118668
>>1118671
Good info tho, even though I gave you shit over wd40. It's good in a pinch until you can get what you need.

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>>1118676
>>pretending that WD-40 and penetration oil are too different things
Pic related. As with other tasks, purpose-made formulations do it better.

>>1118680
>At best I use wd to slick something up to get it into place where I don't care if it evaporates after.
Which is to say, as a light lubricant. It's handy to keep a it around because it can be useful at a bunch of things, and that can be good enough if the right product for the job isn't available. Results are generally what matter, not how you get there.

>>1118667
>white lithium grease
I will add that a lot of lithium greases are plastic-safe. I originally got some to use on my mini-lathe's gears. Find all kinds of uses for it.

>PTFE dry lube
Graphite, too.

>steel cutting oil
Debatable. Odds are, if you don't have it already, you don't need it. Most any oil works pretty well as a substitute for cutting oil. The only good reason you'd need specific cutting lubes is if you're looking to optimize a production process, really.


Other than that, these three posts (>>1118667 >>1118668 >>1118671) are close to an exact list of the adhesives, solvents, and lubricants I have in my shop, barring some of the more specialized stuff like acrylic welding solvent, conformal coating, etc.

I will tentatively add hydrogen chloride (hydrochloric acid, muriatic acid) to the list. It's decidedly more hazardous than anything else here but I keep finding odd uses for it, not the least of which is as an aggressive chemical cleaner. Used to use it to clean a turtle's tank. Was the only thing I found that would easily and reliably remove the nasty shit that would build up on the edge of the water. I've since used it for a number of other odd things, like making copper chloride for PCB etching and as part of some electroplating solution.

>>1118740
>Debatable
True enough. I included that in the list mostly for situations where a DIY-er who doesn't usually do much with metals has to cut or drill something hard. With economy bits / blades, a nice cutting oil can make a big difference on steel, especially if it's stainless or heat treated. Cutting oil is cheap enough to just keep some around in case something like that comes up.

This contrasts with the HCL, which has occasional uses but is hazardous and should be stored securely. But in a similar vein, I keep some pure sodium hydroxide around as an aggressive caustic cleaner.

I feel like I don't quite belong in this thread, but I have a relevant request for advice; I recently got an old CPU, which (arguably) the best available for my old motherboard. Since it's pretty outdated hardware I want to overclock it a bit, so I've been looking into cooling solutions.

Reading up on thermal compounds, consumer grade ones seem like a bluff. They degrade over time, needing replacement after a couple of months, and even those that don't do have much lower heat transfer rates than advertised.

Comparing with industrial heat interface compounds, with accurate measurements (because if stats are different from advertised things might fuck up bad) and sometimes INCREASED efficiency over time, it seems like a much better option. Unfortunately I can't find anyone in my country willing to sell to private persons, and even then a batch/package of the stuff may be priceworthy, but I would only use a tiny fraction of it.

tl;dr any tips about a good heat interface compound, NOT marketed towards brainless "enthusiasts"?

I thought some mineral lubricant may be a good idea (assuming it doesn't touch circuits), but maybe there is none that would fill small enough gaps

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My favorite. Family's 1 oil since 1890

>Dat pleasant smell

>>1118622
Hoppes... Good shit! Nothing jogs a memory like a smell like that! I would almost use it as aftershave, but people would laugh at me.

I find Kroil is a decent penetrating oil, and also doesn't smell bad. Also for gun guys.

>>1118740
>I will tentatively add hydrogen chloride (hydrochloric acid, muriatic acid) to the list.

i use it to remove galvanizing from steel for welding

>>1118848
You haven't seen Willis' comic about using it as cologne? I've had multiple people and girls say how good it smells. The only downside to using it as a cologne is that its a hydrocarbon chain, and not very good to have on your skin or inhale every day.

Since we're on the subject, does /diy/ use rubber gloves when cleaning guns, or applying chemicals? I don't.

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>>1118601
Astroglide is excellent for DIY

Does anybody know what substance could dilute PVAc glue (white wood glue), without ruining gluing properties?
I know that water can do it, but I am looking for something that would evaporate/dry faster.
I tried with 99% isopropyl alcohol, but it turned it into some sort of jelly like consistency. Exactly opposite of what I wanted.

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"Chemically and biologically inert"
Best stuff ever for o-rings and gaskets. We use it at work for anesthesia machines. Pretty pricey though...

>>1118732
worst product label ever

Should I be wearing gloves when I use acetone?

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The best penetrating fluid on Earth: 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. Shit's so cash.

>>1119166
Nah. Chicks put that shit on their skin straight, all the time and don't even realize it. Acetone is one of two chemicals that are fingernail polish remover. The other is Ethyl Acetate.

>>1118732
>Which is to say, as a light lubricant.
I know, I realized after I posted and said this
>>1118682
There's a reason why it's ubiquitous after all.

pneumatic oil

>>1118601
For me it is:

Devcon 2-ton 30-min Epoxy
3-in-1 Oil
WD-40
Duct Tape and Clear Packing Tape
Clear Silicone
Titebond III
Acetone
Mineral Spirits
Transformer Oil (dielectric oil)


>>1118621
>Its like a spray that makes it harden up faster.

>>1118648
Heat + oil next time.

>>1119166
Yes. Use Butyl gloves (expensive) or Laminate-film, not Latex gloves and especially not Nitrile gloves (acetone deteriorates them). Always google the MSDS for any chemical you will be working with.

>>1119170
Fingernail polish goes on nails, not on skin.
You can just use water to do the same thing. Be sparing with the water, just barely dampen stuff and it sets instantly, no joke, no second chances. I dampen on wide and glue on the other side and slam them together.

>>1119174
Oops, these were intended to go together for >>1118621

>Its like a spray that makes it harden up faster.

You can just use water to do the same thing. Be sparing with the water, just barely dampen stuff and it sets instantly, no joke, no second chances. I dampen on wide and glue on the other side and slam them together.

>>1119174
This. I'd also like to add loctite blue.

>>1119176
>>1119174
And lithium grease. Or any grease for that matter.

>>1118834
I think that you're over thinking it. I've also never heard of a thermal paste breaking down in a few months.
Just get something with decent reviews in your price range if you're unsure.

That reminds me, alcohol swabs!
They're very handy for a myriad of uses, including cleaning up thermal paste and the bottom of your heat sink before you install it.

I also keep a box of nitrile gloves in my toolbox.

>>1119166
If it's just a little and only occasionally, you don't really need them.
If you soak your hands repeatedly in it, then it makes your skin dry and is somewhat irritating. I use gloves when I soak stuff in acetone and need to handle them.

Isopropyl alcohol

>>1119175
>You can just use water to do the same thing

What? No way! This is a very handy tip if you need an instant bond.

Gonna try this out later.

>>1119182
In addition to the swabs (the ones your nurse uses to clean skin before a flu shot) I have a big bottle of this.
Goes great with a lint free cloth. And I stress lint free depending on application.

>>1119166
It's not poisonous, but it leaches oils out of skin and subcutaneous tissue. This is cumulative over time. A little exposure once in a while doesn't matter much, but definitely wear gloves if you work with acetone regularly or will be getting a lot on your skin.

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>>1118617
>Also if you use WD 40 as a lubricant you are retarded. White lithium is my go to for a thick grease

Seems like you may be the retard.

>>1119234
that's just a brand name, you twat.

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>>1118938

>>1119234
Time to pretend you were trolling all along anon. Of course we all know, including you, that WD 40 is the chemical as well as the company brand umbrella

>>1119236
But a name that people need to understand isn't a one trick pony. Mind you, WD40 white lithium with the flip up straw thing is amazing.

>>1119240
I wasn't pretending, or trolling anything. The name brand isn't the company. Water Displacement, formula 40, isn't the company, it's their flagship. It's what made them famous, and their namesake. But it's hardly the only thing they do.

>>1119244
>WD40
is the name of a formula as well as a brand. How hard is it to understand that? What you posted is just lithium grease, which happens to be branded WD40. People that use WD40 as a lubricant are indeed retarded.

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Seeing how this is a chemical thread and I need help choosing something to clean the sticky crap off this tube I figured this was the place to ask.

I want to use this fabric roll tube as a model rocket body. I don't know what to use to clean off the what I think is a sticky tape off. I also am wondering how I can have a nice, smooth surface to paint without the spiral wind showing.

Pic related. Thanks in advance.

>>1119322
use 400grit sand paper, heavy primer, then paint over it. You can't use a solvent to get only the adhesive off of paper.

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>>1119327
I figured I'd have to sand it.
I can't wait to Frankenstein this thing together. Next thing to figure out is what motors I want to use and how to cluster them.
And since I'm going nuts I want 2 little boosters on the side. I haven't yet figured out how to attach them and then eject them. Maybe just make them permanent and vent the ejection charge out of the side?

>>1119330
Just look at existing Estes rocket kits. Their motor holding system is perfect as its a cardboard tube, a metal clip, and thats it. You can cluster as many motors as you want, or just go with an enormous motor. Last I saw 15 years ago they had motors which were being scrutinized by the FAA for causing large rockets to fly too high. However these were like $30 motors instead of D motors at $1 a piece.

If you want to eject them, simply make a pneumatic system whereby the "parachute" blast ejects the motor. Or leave it in the tube because thats adding complexity to a CARDBOARD FUCKING ROCKET.

>>1119330
>Maybe just make them permanent and vent the ejection charge out of the side?
Or use a booster-stage engine without an ejection charge.

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>>1119333
>Or leave it in the tube because thats adding complexity to a CARDBOARD FUCKING ROCKET.

Where's the fun in that? I want to challenge my skills. And it's cheaper to experiment with cardboard and balsa wood. If I figure it out why not make a fiberglass one someday.

>>1119334
Only motor I know of that has no ejection charge is one of those big "D" size motors from estes. Wanted something smaller than that. I want to recover this thing after all.

I'll try to list some that haven't been mentioned yet.

>Lye
Great for de-galvanizing steel. Takes longer than acid but doesn't rust the metal underneath, so you can let the part soak for a few days with no problem.

>Vinegar
Want to solder some copper? Want it to come out perfectly every time? Soak the parts in vinegar beforehand, then rinse them off and solder immediately. Vinegar dissolves copper oxides, without etching the metal underneath. If you want to etch copper, add salt and hydrogen peroxide.

>Mobil Vactra 2
Excellent general purpose oil. I use it on my machine tools, but it's great to put on anything you don't want to rust. Repels water, and somehow converts orange rust into black rust, which stops it from spreading and makes it look nicer. Also good for lubricating plain bearings.

>>1119338
I was probably thinking of the E, F, and G size engines. They don't come in the regular paper tubes, and they're still $20+.

You're looking for plugged engines, but Estes doesn't really make them because they don't want to encourage missiles. However you can plug the top of the engine yourself, and create blocking to self-eject.

Alternatively, if you wrap some tape around the body of the motor to cause a friction fit inside the mount, it'll just blow itself out; get something like a D8-0 motor to eject once the propellant is finished. No mounting hardware necessary other than a tube to hold it.

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>>1119351
I did think of that actually. Use tape for a friction hold so it doesn't fall out before launch then let it shit itself out the back.
Alternatively I could a) make my own motors or b) remove the ejection charge somehow. Maybe with a rig set up outside to hold it so I can safely drill through the clay (I think it's clay) plug and then dump out the charge.

>>1119224
>>1119179
>>1119174
Well shit, I work in a lab and we use acetone a ton for cleaning samples. We are only supplied with our choice of latex... or nitrile gloves.

>>1118656
When I was in the Navy working on avionics systems, we called this a "simulated arrested landing". That's the official name. Around the shop we just called it a "drop check".

>>1119362
Neat. And a carrier landing is rough as hell so it makes sense.

Were you in a carrier?

>>1119338
>Only motor I know of that has no ejection charge is one of those big "D" size motors from estes. Wanted something smaller than that.
http://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/engines/standard/001600-a8-0
http://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/engines/standard/001608-b6-0
http://www.estesrockets.com/rockets/engines/standard/001616-c6-0

>>1119405
Those still have a charge in them at the end of their burn. The 0 at the end signifies zero seconds to detonation.

>>1118936
I have no idea what a Willis is, except for "what chu talkin bout, Willis." And maybe the Jeep manufacturer, but it's spelled differently. Really, I don't know how old the reference you're making is, but I heard my uncle and his buddies joking about that in about 1977. And hell no to gloves when cleaning guns! Dude. Do you know how freeing it is to never have to say no homo?

>>1119412
>Those still have a charge in them at the end of their burn
No, they don't. The top is uncapped, so the regular burning propellant can ignite the next stage. You'd have to cap them or otherwise protect the interior of the outriggers, but they don't have an actual explosive charge. The zero is to keep with the naming convention. There is no delay burn as in standard engines.

>>1119433
>The top is uncapped, so the regular burning propellant can ignite the next stage. You'd have to cap them

I did not know this, thanks! I bet I can find a dowel size that fits. Cut it to make the plug and then epoxy it in. What do you think?

>>1119178
>>1118621

What are the practical use differences between isopropyl alcohol vs acetone? For which of their uses might (concentrated) windshield cleaner suffice as a replacement?

>>1118622
I buy hoppes by the gallon. It is great on engines.


I always have :
Acetone
Mek
Mineral spirits
Paint thinner
EvapoRust
Navy jelly
Hoppes
White lithium grease
Moly grease
Aeroshell 33 grease
3n1
Wd40
Teflon
Graphite
Tite bond 3
30 min epoxy
5min epoxy
Jb weld
Thin ca
Thick ca
Hardener
Silicone caulk

Bailing wire
Elcetircal tape
Strapping tape
Foil tape
Gaffers tape
Medical tape

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Balistol is the real shit
you can use it for everything
some old hunters even drink a spoon full if theyr sick
you can use it for athleetes feet cuts ingrown nails etc

>>1119440
Should work.

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whats a proper dry lube to put in the plastic and brass gears of a drone like pic related?
The problem with these gears is they wear out too soon plus the friction in the bushings ends killing the motors.
People recommend not lubing these parts, but I see a point on it if can save me some repairs

>>1119715
A lot of greases will have fine particulates in them which are designed to fill in the gaps on metals, things like graphite and carbon which are slicker than steel on steel. These particulates can sometimes wear out plastic faster, not to mention some of the additives in grease and lube can deteriorate plastics faster.

On that same note, why not just put metal on metal gears? It costs a buck or two more and will last fucking forever, but is likely louder during operation. Sell a quiet model for the same price to fool jerkoffs into thinking they're getting a better product; more profit, ??? success!

>>1119715
Try molybdenum disulfide. Add a tiny bit of molybdenum disulfide to some rubbing alcohol mix it up, and drip it on the gears. The alcohol will evaporate leaving a thin film of molybdenum disulfide.

>>1119360
>We are only supplied with...
>...the wrong safety gear.

Get this bit of life knowledge and take it to heart.

-Bring your own tools and safety gear. Get them approved if you must.
-Guard your lockout key like your life depends on it, because it does.
-Read all MSDS for anything you need to work with and follow proper guidelines.
-Never assume the company you work for or coworkers know everything and are looking out for your safety.

>>1119715
The same stuff used inside VCRs.

Molybdenum grease for metal to plastic gears.
Molycoat grease on plastic to plastic gears.

Use as little as possible.

>>1119729
Are MSDS sheets really that important? I know in a veterinary clinic they had to keep a binder on all the chemicals and I read for the special soap it recommended the use of gloves when using the hand soap.

Gloves, for hand soap.

I mean it makes some sense for xray developer, or shit that can actually cause you harm, but cmon.

>>1118601
Tightbond III for wood glue. CLR for tough cleans (or the generic spray oven cleaner BC it contains lye). Naptha for diluting finishes. Paint thinner for clean up. Tube of construction adhesive for random glue jobs. Mineral oil for hand tool protection. Schultz 20-20-20 all purpose fert for liquid soluble and miracle grow 8-8-8 palm for crf. (But I can use anything and just add a bit of lime for secondary nutes). WD 40 for easy rust cleans. Dawn and water mix for household and bug killing.

And of course - coconut oil for massage/sex oil.

>>1119723
>>1119724
>>1119730
ok you people, thank you for your help.
thing is, if i use grease it will most likely attract dirt and dust as the gears are exposed

>>1119178
They don't break down, they harden and swell. Not all of them of course, but apparently the "best" ones, and all of them transfer heat worse after some amount of "heat cycles" (except the "liquid metal" ones, AFAIK)

>>1119723
Re: greases, not fine enough for use as thermal compound? Assuming working temp is up to ~80-90°C

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from guns to kegs, and even a cheap vacuum greas for lab glass , this food grade silicon based lube is unbelievable ( -30 to +475 F working range)

plus it makes for a good chapstick and good for fappin

>>1119769
That might be another reason they recommend no lube: it won't allow dirt and dust to get stuck to components that rub and grind on eachother. Plastic gears are cheap to make and replace, so it may be designed that way.

I would also hazard a guess that the friction coefficient of brass to plastic isn't very high and lube wouldn't decrease friction very much.

>>1119775
Thermal compound is factually a grease. Arctic silver uses silver compounds and other shit in a dielectric grease. Thermal compound DOES break down after a long time. It takes about 2-3 months of use and heat cycles to become fully effective, but after about 2 years it stops transmitting heat as well and starts to be a bit of an insulator. While nobody does this, it is beneficial to replace the thermal compound on CPUs and GPUs every couple years.

>>1119769
PTFE dry lube?

>>1119810
this is pretty close to what I had in mind,
but don't know if is good to use in plastic/nylon parts, plus there are some with teflon too.

>>1119816
The teflon itself should be fine. It's inert and among the softest plastics. The only question would be if the carrier would cause trouble for the plastics. But teflon, polyethylene, and polypropylene shouldn't need lubrication.

>>1118848
>Hoppes... Good shit! Nothing jogs a memory like a smell like that! I would almost use it as aftershave, but people would laugh at me.
/k/ wouldn't laugh, and if you find a woman who likes that smell, ring her.
>>1118936
>Since we're on the subject, does /diy/ use rubber gloves when cleaning guns, or applying chemicals?
Depends on the 'cleaning'. If it's just breaking down the guns after a range trip or two, no. If I'm cleaning the gun because I'm selling it, yes. Thick nitrile gloves (black ones many mechanics wear). Now, if I'm cleaning out a bunch of cosmolime on a newly aquired piece of milsurp, I'll go heavy duty and get a pair of yellow dish gloves.

>>1119150

It's the equivalent of a website from the 90s

>>1119849
> <marquee> It's the equivalent of a website from the 90s </marquee>

Now 200% more annoying!

>>1119544
Is nothing but mineral oil according to the sds.

>>1119734
They are now called SDS they are important to have on hand for anything you use. Best way to kbow safe storage , first aide, and disposal.


Plus they are free. Any retailer or manufacturer must provide them on request.


Lowes will print out the sds of anything in the store , for free, while you wait.


I had the SDS for the wood i bought from the..

>>1119781
uhh... it's not silicone or food grade. It's a PAO/natural petroleum mix.

>>1119524
I don't know much about acetone but I use rubbing alcohol all the time. It isn't too harsh on surfaces and evaporates fast with no residue.

>>1119862
my bad t auto corrected from syncon 3 oz. Tube Synthetic Grease with Syncolon PTFE
Patented synthetic NLGI grade 2 heavy-duty, multipurpose lubricant
Dielectric, Food Grade, Clean
NSF Rating H-1, safe for incidental food contact
Will not drip, run or evaporate
Impervious to salt water, safe in potable water

>>1119855
>safe storage
cool dry place away from flame and direct sunlight for 99% of everything you buy
>first aid
Either flush with water, call poison control, or induce vomiting if swallowed. Who is swallowing anything at work? Who doesn't know these basic things?
>Disposal
Pour it down the fuckin drain or put it in a trash bag.

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Super glue for wood

>>1119876
NO GOD NO.

Never follow this advice, it will get you killed or arrested.

Almost all SDS direct you to NOT induce vomiting, as that risks inhalation and choking. usually drinking water helps, but you do need to read individual SDS for that.

Pouring chemicals down the drain or putting them in the bin is how you get the environmental agencies knocking at your door, and if you thought health and safety guys were vicious, this is literally orders of magnitude worse.

SDS are easy to overlook because they're mandatory, so even harmless stuff like deionized water has one, but they're the only thing that will tell you which chemicals are genuinely dangerous.

>>1119932
Medical professionals have gone back and forth with vomiting, mostly because the induction itself can cause problems such as inhaling your own vomit. However if you call 911 and let them know you just drank some bleach/solvent/whatever, it'll be better advice and faster information than finding the MSDS binder, finding the chemical, then reading about it, even worse trying to find the manager to find it.

I know pouring chemicals down the drain is illegal and probably bad for the environment, it was an joke. However, it is what most people do, rinsing paint solvent from brushes, pouring cleaning chemicals down the drain, washing your hands after greasing your axle.

What do you think the disposal companies do? They pour them all in a big ass tank, then neutralize them with more chemicals, then dilute the fuck out of it before pouring it through filters.

>they're the only thing that will tell you which chemicals are genuinely dangerous
FALSE! The product packaging will tell you that. The internet will tell you that. Common sense will likely tell you what is dangerous.

>>1119944
You're supposed to read the SDS before you use the chemical, reading it once you've been poisoned or got it in your eye is retarded.

I couldn't really care less about what's good for the environment, but if environmental agencies find you pouring a ton of chemicals in the drains (they monitor this) they'll come down on you like a ton of bricks. Washing your hands with chemicals on and rinsing brushes is so negligible that its fine.

You would think that packaging would tell you the dangers, but a lot of the time it's wrong or missing bits. And ever since CLP started using the <!> mark, you basically have to look up the SDS anyway because it can mean anything.

>>1119946
How many times has an employee read and MSDS sheet after being directed by his boss to do something?

CLP has the generic warnings about hydrocarbon inhalation and skin irritation because thats all it'll do, and you're only at risk if you drink it and bathe yourself daily. Its a relatively harmless chemical; warnings are only there to stop lawyers.

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>>1118601
Brakleen
No residue, dries instantly
I use it a lot!

>>1119524
Acetone is a stronger solvent for most things, and it's harsher on skin. It can damage more materials, including a lot of plastics. Windshield cleaner doesn't have a standard formulation.

>>1119734
>Are MSDS sheets really that important?
Are you willing to bet your life on it? You never know what might happen and even if you can't do anything in an emergency it's useful to the first responders and the emergency room doctor.

>>1119876
>induce vomiting if swallowed

No, don't do this unless directed. It can cause more damage coming back up to your esophagus, mouth, teeth etc. Charcoal must be ingested in certain cases.

>>111952
> (concentrated) windshield cleaner
It's usually water, some alcohol (ethanol, methanol or isopropanol(=isopropyl alcohol)) and ethylene glycol (or some other glycol).
So you might replace isopropyl with it, but why would you?

For solvents, I tend to use:
- some alcohol – ethanol or isopropanol (nonpolar solvent)
- acetone (ketone)
- toluene / benzene (aromatic solvents, both rather harmful, but tend to solve lots)
- chloroform / ethyl chloride (chloric solvents, poisonous)
- petroleum ether (just for cleaning stuff)
- turpentine
I also often encounter ethyl acetate (but never found good use for it)

Solvents work well as adhesives for some plastics.

> What are the practical use differences between isopropyl alcohol vs acetone?
Acetone glues (=solves) polystyrene and ABS (and, with some difficulties, acrylic glass; which, however, is easier to glue with chloric solvents). Isopropyl does not. This matters when you want to clean some plastic, especially lenses – just use pure isopropyl. When you clean laminated particle board, be careful with acetone. Also, acetone can be used to create explosives (including highly explosive peroxides https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone_peroxide). Acetone evaporates faster.

>>1118621
Seconded on the acetone. I'm a chemist and we get it in 20L pails for lab. I constantly wonder how other people get through life without a squirt bottle of it within arms reach.

It works wonders for drying things quickly. If something (metal or glass) is wet, a quick rinse and some compressed air (optional) will have it nice and dry in less than two minutes.

>>1120203
Very informative, thanks! Re: windshield cleaner, I don't normally handle such chemicals nor have any kind of license for handling chemicals, but I have a lot of use for rubbing alcohol simply for cleaning purposes. I was thinking that if windshield cleaner is a reasonable substitute for rubbing alcohol in my cases, it's a lot cheaper and more easily accessible to me. I'll make sure to see what it contains though and read up on it all

>>1119168
These do not mix do they? I have a 50/50 mix of ATF+diesel but it seems too thick. Maybe I need to give the acetone version a chance.

>>1119734
>Are MSDS sheets really that important? I know in a veterinary clinic they had to keep a binder on all the chemicals and I read for the special soap it recommended the use of gloves when using the hand soap.

SDS give you the breakdown of the chemicals in a product. For a lot of things this won't really be necessary. Where it does come into play is chemical reactions, and more dangerous chemicals.

The soap is probably a skin irritant and if you worked at the factory bottling it, you would want gloves. They understand that when you're using it you're using a small amount and rinsing the skin almost immediately. If yo want to do an experiment, go take some laundry detergent and rub some on your arm and don't wash it off. You'll have a rash pretty damn quick and we use that shit every day.

>>1120246
They separate readily, you need to shake the fuck out of it before using it.