QTDDTOT

>>1116656
That's a standard GE single pole, 20 amp, BR style breaker. 5 bucks or under at a bigbox.

>>1116656
Might be worth the effort to make sure it isn't connected when replacing it though. Without the breaker you can really tickle yourself.

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Any good place to buying micro screws tried ebay but can't find jack shit. I need a store or something that sells Hex flat head 1.7x5.0mm.

Picture related is the screw type I need.

>>1116656
I need to pour a small slab (2'×2'×1') in may basement to set some equipment on.

The basemnt has a significant slope how to i make a form that will be level?

Make some cardboad templets and transfer to 2x12 to cut forms?

>>1116656
Read the plate on the box.

It will tell you the brand and line of the box. You must replace with a compatible breaker.

>>1116711
do the sides need to be level or just the top?

>>1116695

Fastenal, brafasco, home depot...

tl;dr I built a dog gate for the top of my stairs in my new apartment but the stud I want to screw into is like 6" from where I need it to be.

Are drywall anchors enough to hold a 25 pound gate

>>1116719
Top must be level. Sides level is a big plus

>>1116730
Yes.


I have anchors that will hold 190lbs in drywall.

Go over sized. Like a 90lb rating ot a toggle bolt. To account for your dog hitting it and the additional strain the open/close will put on it.

>>1116711
What's significant and how heavy is equipment?

>>1116731
How thick? Think it would be easy to secure one piece of wood for a side then measure the other 3 to make them level

>>1116766
>>1116827
2200lbs give or take. 200lbs
It is a mill

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So I have a nebulizer compressor that I have to use every day for close to two hours a day. At first it was relatively quiet, but it now makes a hell of a noise, and I'd like to quiet it down, but not sure how to add a silencer on an intake this small.

Any ideas?
>pic related
Not my model but very similar

>>1117071

open it up, find the fan, oil the bearings.
grease is better, but oil will do.

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Can anyone who has built their own guitar using a kit give me some advice or experiences, and a recommendation for places to get parts? I have been thinking about picking up a kit for a bit during the summer, but I don't really know what I'm getting myself into.

I've been thinking about possibly getting one of those fake Chinese guitars in bare bone form to put decent pickups and gear into, but I've heard mixed things about them (although a lot of the negatives sound like they're coming from butthurt fanboys and brand whores).

The other option is buying a full on DIY kit, but I'm not sure if I'm up to the challenge of finishing all the wood and making it look good.

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I bought this darkroom timer a while back. It works okay for around 10 or 15 seconds then the relay gets stuck. Even when I unplug it and plug it back in the relay still gets switched. I tried replacing all the caps but it still doesn't work. What does /diy/ think?

>>1117351
Goylt myself a 4-string bass guitar kit last year. Shielded all the parts and slapped some Dr. Black Beauties on there and she sounds brilliant and plays superlight for a bass.
I think the negative part is indeed mostly by brand whores and people who can't screw anything proper or solder for that matter.

I'm making a fan to suck up solder fumes out of 12v PC fans and activated carbon sheets.

What I'm wondering is, if I put two fans together, both blowing the same direction, will that help the air get through the carbon filter more easily?

>>1117352
Replace the relay

>>1117376

if you put the fans side by side you get twice the suck power. putting them inline wont help very much.

I'm building a cabin this year. I have some carpentry experience (remodeled my current attic to make more living space). I'm going to keep it simple - or try to.

2 questions:

Is there any reason not to frame up the walls using 2x4's instead of 2x6's?

Would a "post and beam" foundation be sufficient, or would most people recommend a crawlspace "full" foundation?

TIA

>>1117426
I'll do that then. Thanks

>>1117439
2x4 construction is cheaper. Prehung doors will fit without needing extra trim. Also yields more living space. No real reason to use 2x6's on interior walls unless there is a plumbing stack in it.

Your foundation is decided by where the cabin will be. The weather, water table, environment, etc. If the soil is strong enough to hold the weight of the cabin on a few posts and you can get by with having exposed pipes under the it you'll be fine.

>>1116711

>make the frame
>set it on the floor - in the exact spot you want it to be when pouring
>use a level to find the lowest corner of the box
>use the level on the outside of the box as a guide to mark a level line around the box
>stand box on edge for easy cutting
>cut along the marked line
>put box back in place - exactly
>secure to floor

Bought a house.

Wiring is a mix of nm and BX. The bx is an octopus. I want to switch out the bx with mc that has a ground wire and to break some of the runs apart into smaller circuits.


My problem is the boxes in my plaster walls.

They are bx boxes with clamps in them from the 60s.


Should i cut the boxes out? Or try and reuse them, and some how pull the existing bx out and re run mc?

>>1117605
3/8 or 1/2 bx?

>>1117611
The existing is 1/2 I will be replacing with 3/8 (20amp) mc

>>1117633
If you have 1/2" bx in your walls you can pull up to 9 12ga thhn through it before hitting fill. That's what I'd recommend you do.

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>>1117636
That sounds like a nightmare.

But if it code and easier than 3/8 pulling the boxes out....


Just tape the 3 wires together and fish them trough .... do i need an insulating bushing at the box like mc?

Pic attached is what im dealing with.

I used to nm and have done some mc in surface mount stuff.

>>1117638
If you're not up for pulling wires then cut out the boxes. Bushings depends on the conduit connector used. Some need them some don't.

>>1117638
Looks like there is a screw that will unclamp the bx.


You may be able to cut the bx, un clamp it at the box and pull it out and replace it with mc.

Old bx was rarely clamped anywhere. Your mc should be every 4 ft.

>>1116730
No. The gate isn't all the anchor needs to hold. Your dog's weight will also potentially be on the gate. You might also have to deal with the dynamic load of a dog slamming into the gate.

>>1116695
Maybe if you searched for torx

My garage door won't open all the way, it lifts like a foot then stops. It's cold outside right now, in the negatives. If I pull a little while it's going up it can fully open but it can't if I don't. What should I do? I've tried cleaning the track a little but it didn't seem to help

>>1118112
Your lift spring is bad.

Be careful

>>1118124
>>1118112

It isn't 'bad'. Probably just needs wound an extra turn or two. Alternatively there is an adjustment in the opener itself to control how much force it uses to open and close the door. Tweaking that setting up a little might also fix the problem.

To know which of the two is the actual problem you need to disengage the door from the opener and see how heavy it is when all the way down. check out youtube for how to vids on adjusting things.

>>1118112

or you motor/gears has been made weak by the oil/grease going bad in the cold. also check lubricant in the pulley wheels.

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>>1118124
I don't think the spring is bad it looked fine.

>>1118128
Can I just shoot some wd40 into there?

I noticed that one of the tracks were misaligned and it hasn't been a problem till today. There's a little ledge when I was running my finger up the track but the garage door stops after a wheel passes the ledge so I'm not sure what's going on. Can I hammer this to align it again?

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>>1118222

>Can I just shoot some wd40 into there?

no. get one of these with motor oil if you cant justify grease, you can find em for a few dollars

people usually recommend white lithium grease for things like this, doesnt wash off in the rain as easy

>>1118243
Thanks for all the help guys, I turned up the switch that controls how much power is used when it pulls up and that seems to have fixed it for now. I'll grease up the stuff when it gets warmer outside

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Shouldn't water be under on aside electricity/internet, not just about it?

It's a Japanese toilet, from >>>/news/101087 (the link in the OP)

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when i was working with veneer some contact cement got on the top surface of the wood. when i tried to stain it it couldnt since the cement clogged the woods pores, I sanded it down and tried again but it hasnt really worked. what do you guys recommend? does poly clearcoat need a porous surface to cling to?

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>E-reader backlight
I want to change it from white to warm white. how do they work, is it a luminous panel or lights around the perimeter?

Specifically a Kobo glo HD

>>1118806
contact cement thinner/remover (I use lacquer thinner)
dampen the area with it and blot it up
repeat frequently
then wipe the entire surface with a cloth dampened with lacquer thinner
wipe dry then allow to dry fully and re-stain

It will probably never match fully but good luck

how can i power a car heater blower? i know its 12volt dc but where can i find a cheap battery/adapter

>>1118872

an old PC power supply will give you, typically, 12V at around 20 amps if you short the green wire on the big motherboard connector to a black wire. check the current rating of the blower to see if 20A is enough. that's 240W. if the blower needs more, you could use 2 supplies but also some expensive high-power diodes.

>>1118811
Its going to be a slut and a half to even attempt it

I have to put a laser line module in a cutting machine where coolant is flying everywhere. I can waterproof the laser module, but how do i make sure coolant droplets are removed form the optical path so that the laser line is not obstructed right away?

>>1119064
Vaseline or wax or something? If the line is moving compressed air I guess

>>1119090
Dont have air near.

Might try wax but theres shit in the coolant which might decompose wax.

Favourite DIY youtube channel?

>>1119139
rainx?

a thin coating of silicone caulk?

>>1119763
Dont know rainx.
Silicone would be fine for waterproofing but droplets would still be sitting on it after.

I feel only a more active method would work, like air, or some spinning glass in front of the optic. There must be a way to do this right tho.

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>>1119770
>I feel only a more active method would work,

>>1119786
How is having a wiper is not active?

>>1119790
Why isn't the camera cover a few inches longer? Instead of having a fucking wiper. It's kinda over-engineering.

>>1119786
Because snow and wind, but it doesn't look obvious. Also, there is a need to justify the absurd prices of "security", since some people are paid on commission.

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I got given some treated pine to replace some old planks on the deck. Some of these have the bark side on the flat side and some of them have the bark side on the grooved side.
Does the flat/grooved side somehow override the bark side or am I going to end up with random planks that are upside down compared to the others?

>>1119859
>flat/grooved side somehow override the bark side
Yes. You'll have to put them all the same - groove up or down depending on what you're replacing.

When I notice something like this in front of my son he always says, "You know they have kids smokin' dope running that machine."

Perhaps if you're careful you can get enough to not have to use any of those milled on the wrong side.

>>1119937
Ok thanks. So just preference about whether I want groove up or down? I read through a couple decking guides but the ones that mention the different decking profiles just said that it is personal preference about whether to have the flat or grooved (they called it reeded) side on top.
Why do they need to all be the same by the way? Just to not look like shit or do they warp in a specific direction based on where the grooves are.

>>1119942
>they warp in a specific direction based on where the grooves are

I hadn't considered the grooves affecting the cupping.
I was still in the 'bark side up' stage.
The manner of fastening also affects cupping.

I've not seen reeded boards used for decking. In fact, I don't recall ever seeing treated reeded material. All I've seen is #2 or better and it was for trim.

Here is a read for you.
http://inspectapedia.com/decks/Wood_Board_Bark_Up.php

>>1118879
thank you ive tested this out on my pcs fan port it was ~14 amps on the 12 volt yellow port it ran very well

I need to use some 4x45mm wood screws, should I use a 3mm or a 4mm drill for drilling pilot holes?

Sorry for stupid question, it's my first project and everyone I talked to seems to disagree with each other.

>>1121509
I would think 3mm. If they are screws they are not going to have much to grip on with 4mm holes. Is it hard wood or soft wood? If it were hard wood I would maybe try something closer to 4mm if you have it. Something like 3.5, 3.75 etc.

Source: Nothing, pure speculation on my part.

>>1121515
Softwood. I should have probably specified that, sorry.

>>1121517
This is what I found off google, http://www.diydata.com/information/screwholes/screwholes.php

Seems like for a 4mm screw you only need 1.6mm in softwood and 2.4mm in hardwood.

>>1121520
Well, fuck me. I guess that's the price I pay for being ESL. My search results suck.

Thanks for the help.

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>>1121517
>>1121520
Just look what covers the body but not the lands

What is the best program to draw up designs and work out what pieces will be needed for woodworking projects and the like? eg. designing a desk

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I took apart my oven/stove because I want to run some greasy parts in the dishwasher. Do you think the glass sealant is dishwasher safe? The sealant on my oven is black but looks about the same. A bit rubbery so I'm guessing silicone

Paracord question - can any give their experience on knitting paracord? I knit with yarn but I'm curious if it would translate well to paracord on a practical level?

what resources should I look for if it turns out that knitting paracord is not a practical use of the material?

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Any gem cutters here?

Cheap eBay rough blood diamonds + DIY = happier wife?

>>1121624

pencil
paper
scale

>>1118112
If you have a multiple pieces garage door Check to make sure that hinges that connect the sections of the door aren't missing any screws and or are all tightly in place and not lose if they were that bit of weird angle could make the door not move properly on the track and stop moving forward and back down, happens to mine once every few years

I want to start riding motorcycles but I don't want to die when some blonde chick hits me in her sport utility vehicle.

There's lots of options in terms of gear but I want to know if it would be possible to create some sort of suit of armor, iron-man style, or if that would even help in the event of an impact or when sliding across pavement at 50 miles an hour.

Ideally it would be powered such that I can wear the armor without being weighed down by who-knows-how many pounds of alloy and such.

>>1121959
>some sort of suit of armor

Yes. It's called and SUV.

>>1121978

I specifically mentioned I will be riding a motorcycle.

>>1121959

Illusion of control works really well I hear.

>>1121981

Is this board just completely made up of snarky middle-aged fucks that try too hard to be clever?

>>1121980
Fine. Smart car.

>>1121705
Yup.

>>1121921
Yeah I would but i draw like a retard even with a stencil or ruler. I want to use a program for precise measurement and so i kbow everything will fit.

>>1121985
>snarky middle-aged fucks

Hey! Don't forget us snarky old fucks.

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So I'm trying to spray paint small dots onto a latex band for and experiment by spray painting them through a ruler with holes drilled into it. I've been tapeing the band to the ruler and spraying through the holes essentially. Some come out really clean and clear others come out barely visible and poorly defined. Any suggestions on how I could get better results? I was thinking I could apply it from further away or use smaller holes I don't know how effective either method would be. Just want any advice before I ruin another band.

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What is the component in the upper left hand corner called so I can do more research on it? It is a closed canister like tube with a pin or ball that moves back and forth to make contact to change the orientation of the clock (which is wrong in pic).

This is inside an iHome IP41 Rotating Clock. I can hear the contact piece moving inside and sometimes get it to change the orientation, but it takes a bit of persuading and it may change again in minutes or hours for no reason. More curious what's it's called to read up on it and if it's prone to corrosion from all the carbon that must build up inside it from what it does.

>>1122195
>a ruler with holes drilled into it
How thick is the ruler?
A stencil for spray painting needs to be thin so you aren't spraying down a 'well'.

>>1122334
>a closed canister like tube with a pin or ball that moves back and forth to make contact to change the orientation of the clock
pic related?

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>>1122370
>pic related?

lost pic

Got a dumb question for any furniture guys out there. I have a decent amount of cherry, 1x8(?)x?, that was cut from trees barely big enough to make boards that wide, in about 1980. It is definitely "seasoned." I'd like to make a coffee table out of it, but it's warped and will finish to about 5/8-3/4, which is a little thin for a table top I hear. Now the question: is there a way to beef up said top, possibly by gluing ribs to the underside not unlike an acoustic guitar, or am I pissing in the wind here?

I went to replace a normal outlet tonight, one of the ones with two plugs of 3 prongs each, US 120v 15a, thinking I was going to install one of the ones with some USB ports. The USB one has 3 cables on the back, figured I'd just clip the ends off the old wires, strip a clean bit off, wire cap each set together. So I take out the old outlet, snip a wire, snip a wire, snip a wire, snip a wire, snip a wire, snip a wire, snip a wire... Wait. Why are there 7... Fuck. Went to Lowe's, got a new outlet for tonight and put that in.

What's the best way to go from a socket that handles 7 wires to one with 3 leads?

File: Split Circuit Outlet.png (216KB, 734x399px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1122496

best way is to document what you see so you can figure out what's going on and act upon it intelligently. just snipping every wire you see is the opposite of acting intelligently.

you could be dealing with a split circuit outlet which needs 4 wires. they're used in kitchens so you can use two heavy-current devices at the same time. they're also used in sockets where one jack is for a lamp controlled by a switch, and the other jack is powered all the time.

as for any extra extra wires, they could simply lead off to other sockets or lights which are in parallel with the first. so if you combine all the wires that are tied together, you should always have only 3 distinct connections, or 4 in case of a split circuit.

>>1116656
I'm planning to make a primitive bow, pretty much just to see if I can without using modern technology (barring stuff like a hammer and chisel, which are really just advanced versions of stone tools). But pretty much everybody on the archery forums is a huge snob, and it's hard to get straight answers about what's actually necessary, and what's just them whining about stuff that isn't really vital. The plan:

>Find log in the bushlands around my house
>Use chisel and hammer to split it down the middle
>Use hammer and chisel to extricate a straight staff from the log
>Use hammer and chisel to form small inclines in the staff, forming the general shape and curve
>Sand the shit outta it
>Add in notches
>Make cord for bowstring, and then string the bow


Are there any issues here? Am I missing any huge steps? And does wood really effect whether the bow will fire or not? Can I use any wood for the first bow, and have it fire a dew dozen times, or is it absolutely vital that I use wood that's harvested from a virgin ent that was watered exclusively with unicorn semen?

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I drink a lot of beer. A lot.

What can I do with the crushed aluminum? It's not worth my time to take them to a recycle center that pays.

Could it be used as insulation?

>>1122606

HOARD ALUMINUM dude.

Every time there's a war the price goes up.

Recycle that shit!

Its a lot easier to recycle than it is to mine it

>>1122606

Also you can make a solar heater with uncrushed cans. Lower your winter bills or whatever.

But seriously, recycle that shit. Don't toss it.

It'll buy you a free beer for every twenty cans.

>>1122371
That looks like it. Thanks anon.

>>1122606
Build a little foundry and make ingots. Because it's fucking cool.

Is there a name for the type of hinge in a monitor stand? It's stiff enough to hold itself roughly in place, by design, but can still swivel.

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Two quick questions about pic rel.

1. I'm safe using 1W rated resistors?
2. A switching adapter rated at 24V/0.8A will do?

>>1122723
yes
remember just because your resistors are rated 1w doesnt stop them getting hot, they just wont get hot enough to destroy themselves. don't put them near oily rags or tnt or anything melty

>>1122723

none of the online LED calculators run a sanity check on their results, and this is a good example of an insane design. out of 24V, you have only 2.3V across the resistors. that's not enough to make up for variances in supply voltage or LED forward voltages. if the actual LED Vf figure is 2.1V instead of 2.2V then current jumps to .44A and all your LEDs burn out.

Whats a normal resistance under no load of a peltier heating/cooling paddle? I got 2 that are rated for 12V that are reading 330kOhms. looking up their specs it says they're supposed to have 6.9ohms across the leads, but maybe that's just under load, dunno. Also the board they were tied in to fried and they were getting 120V for a while.

I have ... a good amount of electrical stuff on one circuit. If any of it could be moved off it I would. The issue I'm having is that when the space heater kicks on and off, the lights dim accordingly. It's marginal, but I get the feeling it's not optimal.

Is there anything a layman can do about this? cheaply and easily if so?

>>1122745
Right. I'm gonna take 2W resistors just in case.

>>1122777
The LEDs are rated as 2.2V - 2.6V. I intend to keep the working voltage low, deliberately, to reduce heat dissipation and increase lifetime.

Question about these fluctuations: can I solve or at least mitigate the effect by using a couple of bulk capacitors on the 24V line, for both parallel lanes...

If there is some other clever tricks that do not require too much extra circuitry and accomplishes this then I'm all ears :)

>>1122886
A constant current driver.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Power-LED-s---simplest-light-with-constant-current/

>>1122894
And er, fair warning, the components I used were different enough where the guys estimations were all wrong, and ended up being like 10x higher current. Test if you're going to try it.

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>>1122853

nothing you can do. requires replacing the wires from the fuse box by thicker wires, which is not a layman-type job.

>>1122886

the variances are statistical in nature, so a physical solution, like caps, wont help. by choosing the low end of the range of forward voltages you've immunized yourself from these variances, tho, so no worries.

as for ''clever tricks that do not require too much extra circuitry" there's constant current sources, like in the pic for $8. this one uses a DC input but many others work directly from 120Vac. it's possible to make your own current source using a voltage regulator like an LM317; while these are simple to make, they're inefficient so they'll get very hot.

>>1122894
>>1122900
Thanks lads, been browsing around for an hour now and finally settled for a constant current source. Actually gonna go ahead and upgrade a smaller grid built with bare resistors too since it flickers noticeably when the fridge or water boiler turns on...

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I've bought an oldtimer 2cv which has body made of sheet metal which rusts fairly quickly not to mention that half of the body is probably body filler by now.
I've decided instead of welding or repairing to simply make a fiberglass mold of original part and just make copies again in fiberglass.
I intend to make molds of fenders, bonnet and all parts that are not part of main cabin until I get a hang of it or research how to better/safer make a fiberglass equivalent.
I've already acquired Wanbergs Composite Material books and Forbes book to study methods and dos/don'ts. I intend to follow instructions and do few test runs on smaller components like my scooter fender or just to try a simple pepakura mask. I know how to use solidworks for modelling but never used it for simulations concerning stress.
My questions are:
1. Does anybody have any tips, links or literature which I could use to avoid mistakes?
2. I'd like to make new parts sturdier, so I'd design them in solidworks to test stress prior real test on the model and to see where I need to reinforce the parts. If I model those non structural outer parts harder than the cabin, can I expect that those parts in collision might pierce metal cabin making the car even more unsafe?

The end plan is to replace the whole body in fiberglass and make the car safer since I use it for everyday driving. I know this is maybe more /o/ related but I couldn't find anything fiberglass/kit related and this is more diy than /o/

Had two mirrored hard drives that got out of synch somehow and windows failed to recognize them. I thought one hard drive had crashed and caused the other one to crash, so I got an .img file of the hard drive that was still working (turns out it was just unplugged, but whatever)

Now I just want to put the .img file back on to the hard drive. I tried getdiskback and diskexplorer, but after waiting hours and hours multiple times to fill the drive from hex view with data, nothing happened. The drive is still fucking empty, despite the .img file being 1.8tb. It's split up into multiple files, untitled.001 and so on, so I thought I should compress everything, but then it just couldn't be read. I tried PowerIso and I got a message regarding one of the partitions as inaccessible or something, but that's probably not important. Anyway, I'm just at wits end here. I don't know how to get this shit off; though it's clearly on there, unless I got 1.81tb

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>>1123260
>an .img file of the hard drive that was still working

If the HD that still works still has the data on it why not use a hardware solution?
For around $35 - $40 you can get an HD cloning box.
I bought one from Newegg a couple of years ago and have used it several times to clone replacement drives for laptops.
(change from disk drive to SSD)
Doesn't even need to be connected. Just plug it into power, stick two drives in and turn it on.

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Can you realistically recharge an AGM battery (not a little SLA, an actual car battery) using jumper cables? We have a self charging electric start generator at work that's running most of the time and we tend to run out of battery charging stations when they start getting drained in large quantities for one reason or another, so could we just jumper cable a battery or 2 or 3 in parallel to the generator battery and expect a good charge?

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Ideas to stuff these holes? Foam and then grout?

>>1123048

My gf drives a 2CV and her mother has 3. Replacing parts with fibre glass alternatives is not safer. While they're generally quite flimsy now they're going to have no more and infact less integrity if fibre glass.

I know this because I've seen 2cv wings replaced with fibreglass copies after accidents. They basically go to dust so you're fucked if you think they're going to be any better.

At the same time, replacement body parts are easy to find in clean condition if you're looking in the right places. Example I bought two rear wings from a 2cv meet up for £4 just because the guy didn't want to take them home.

You should address other things first like the chassis and floor. Is your chassis galvanised? If not without looking you've already got bigger problems to deal with.

>>1123547
My chassis was refurbished in 2011, I've acquired the car last year before summer and removed rust everywhere, stopped leaks and checked water entry points, checked the chassis and prepared the car for winter driving (cleaning the underside and spraying with bitumen). Biggest rust points for me are on the main cabin near doors/windows and the bonnet which is as I stated half body filler by now. To add on top of all that, I had the critical parts refurbished by a local 2cv club member who paints 2cv, but got ripped of as he did a lousy job, now my cars paint looks like bundled up foreskin.
I'm aware of critical points of 2cv as my father owned one and the local clubs are helpful, I keep close contact with mechanic and burton reseller.
As for availability of body parts, they are produced almost locally or I could order via burton reseller, the main problem would be the price and waiting period (ie few months, burton doesn't ship bonnets or bigger parts, only local pickup in netherlands). Most 2cv are sold or within clubs since I live in Croatia and body parts are scarce. My best bet is to try neighboring countries for more luck or simply order online which would cost me a lot. I am not much of a guy for meet ups since I had a falling out cause of the member who messed my paint, not to mention we have 2 local 2cv clubs who are not speaking to each other.

When you talk about replacement parts do you know which ones did they get/where did they get them or were they self made?
I know of hoffman, burton and some french fiber glass body kit makers who sell them, but as I stated I am aware there is a difference in material properties hence why I would use methods of strengthening the construction of the parts and in the same time unfortunately adding weight.
What do you mean when you say : "basically go to dust" ?
Also thanks for your answers, highly appreciated

>>1123564

Ill try and find out exactly where they came from as I don't know personally. When I say go to dust, there was practically nothing left of them after the slightest bump, where as with the metal parts you can at least pull dents, fill etc. Those fibreglass ones just have to be replaced completely and they cost a fortune.

Also, the colour fade on the fg parts never tends to match the car, especially if you have a red special or dolly.

Can you not get parts directly from france? I know it's not exactly next door, but I'd have thought you might have been able to get them fairly easy being on mainland europe.

>>1123594
I'd appreciate that.
it's cheaper for me to get them from Slovenia as the old 2cv factory is being used to make sheet metal parts www.2cvkeza.com/. The burton reseller who lives here offers a big discount compared to their site, also he has lots of used parts as he strips 2cvs and makes burtons.

I understand that fiber will brake with a harder impact and all I can do is replace the part, that's why I wanted to make molds of my body parts and replace them if some accident occurs, which in the long run would cost me cheaper than buying sheet metal and paying to have them painted/repaired not to mention I get gray hairs when I see rust. Yes I understand that the feature of the car is that it rusts while simply looking at it, but I'd like to reduce that as much as possible.
The color is not an issue as the whole car needs to be repainted, I intend to paint it myself this summer and give the main cabin to professionals since I will leave it as it is.

As I said before I don't intend to buy fiberglass body parts but to make my own which would be more durable than store bought ones.

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Anyone customize slots for items?

I found a file cabinet in the trash and want to deck the inside out like a padded guitar case.

It's 13"x17"

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Does anyone know what some of these are, such as the TDA7088T's input 9 capacitor? I can't read this thing for shit. Is that Sn9? What does that even mean?

This is a stereophonic radio receiver from this website:
https://learn.mikroe.com/ebooks/radioreceivers/chapter/stereophonic-receiver-built-with-tda7088t/

I've acquired the 3 main chips, but I need to buy the rest of the resistors, capacitors, etc and I'm having trouble reading this damn thing.

Also, where do you folks usually purchase your resistors, capacitors, etc?

Don't tell me to go to /g/, because they didn't answer my question and someone just pointed me here.

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Ausfag here.

My house has shitty water pressure at every fitting. I assume that there's something reducing the pressure (post drought) and I also assumed it was at the main valve (since its on every fucking tap inside and out)
Is this thing it, or is it a part of the meter?

>>1124254
Take a look at the TDA7088T datasheet.

Generally I buy from Digi-key or Mouser.

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>>1124254

the datasheet is a lot clearer. that website is pretty crappy; very confusing and incomplete.

>>1122853
shut off main breaker remove panel cover make sure screw holding wire is tight at breaker and ground bars. Check for loose wires in outlet boxes, otherwise you'll have to split the circuit. Advanced layman may be able to cookbook it from a house wiring manual.

>>1124254
>Don't tell me to go to /g/, because they didn't answer my question and someone just pointed me here.

Go here >>1115120

>>1124263
>reducing the pressure (post drought)

How was the pressure pre drought?

I've been trying to install a digital deadbolt but I can't even get to programming it, because it messes up during left/right door hinge detection. Bolt comes out but it won't retract. The motor strains for a few clicks then it gives up.

I've tried swapping left/right orientation, and replacing the batteries, I even took the whole thing apart and looked at the deadbolt latch. I noticed that there's a bit of friction between the hole in the door and a small bit of metal that juts out upon retracting. I could probably file that bit down inside the hole and see what happens, but I'm really considering the solution is to get a whole fucking brand new door and door jamb and start over fresh as I'm not even sure the holes are drilled to standard, and this house is old as shit with too many discovered/undiscovered bodged /diy/ repairs.

Here's a video of it sucking
https://youtu.be/kyw6zOpspnw

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>>1124459
apparently my own computer can encode a video faster than youtube can

>>1124376
Dunno. I just started renting here. It was a popular thing during the drought to put water saving devices everywhere. I'm still looking for it...

>>1124526
>I just started renting here.

Perhaps a good place to start is with the person you're renting from.

would it be possible for me to drill a hole into a concrete wall or mortar with a regular cordless drill? Most things I see require a rotary/hammer drill.

All I wanna do is attach a hook to the wall. Wanna make a clothesline for our backyard. Speaking of which, how would I even go about attaching the hook to the wall? Simply twisting and screwing it in?

>>1124649

Yes, it can be done. It's just a little slower.
You'll still need a concrete bit.
Run the drill on slow so the bit doesn't overheat.
Clean the hole you're making regularly while drilling.

>>1124651

should have added - do it in the mortar
if the concrete wall is concrete blocks - do it anywhere

if the concrete wall is 'real' concrete with aggregate, you'll hit rocks which will be a bitch without the hammer drill

>>1124529
They pay for the water, so it's not in their interest to tell me how to increase the water pressure.

>>1123524
Great stuff claims to be GTG for exterior applications

>>1116656
> turn off main power
> remove panel box cover
> disconnect black wire from the broken breaker
> unclip breaker from panel box
> bring broken breaker with you to hardware store to make absolutely sure you have the correct replacement
> install new breaker
> make sure not to over tighten black wire when reinstalling
> put panel cover back on
> power on

I am making a methane generator
Right now I have it hooked up to dump the methane into a big bag but I want to compress it into a bottle

Are there any hand pumps that allow attaching to schrader valves on the input and output side?

>>1122195
Mask it off with a long strip of tape you took a hole punch to. I do pretty complex tape resist airbrush patterns by sticking masking tape down on a sheet of plexi/acrylic, gridding it out with rules and transfers, then cut on the surface with an x-acto before lifting and applying to the painting surface. However, i don't see how laying the tape down flat on plexi and drawing a ruled hole punch grid wouldn't work well. Or better yet, maybe use strips of acetate transparencies! Lay the tape on those, hole punch right through both layers, peel and stick. Perfect dot resist.

>>1122195
>>1126197
Come to think of it, why are you using dots? This is some kind of distance measuring experiment, yes? Why not use interval bands that wrap all the way around so you can read it from any orientation? It would be easy to do with just a paint marker and a ruler.

>>1126201
Could even use alternating colors to make it easier to count.

>>1117638
Why MC? If you are going to get into such a project it will be time consuming, messy, and costly. I would cut in new add-a-boxes assuming the walls are deep enough. Don't get the cheap blue boxes that have the plastic tabs, go for the gray boxes with the metal tabs. We get them from a supply house. I would use plastic add-a-boxes and romex. As for the guy recommending 9 12ga thhn in 1/2" bx I'd recommend to disregard that. Now only do you have to work with box fill but you have to derate the conductors depending on the number of them carrying current. Bringing 1/2 greenfield to a receptacle and branching off from there-which I assume he is trying to say, is terrible. I'd highly recommend NM cable-you'll save a lot of time, money, and struggle. The only place you need MC is for physical protection in certain areas. When I build my house I won't have a single run of it.

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Has anyone used or got a set of pic related (Irwin bolt grip remover set)?

Got a rounded nut on my exhaust manifold but clearance to the pipe is pretty limited and don't know if it will fit.

If anyone could measure the 11mm socket that'd be great, or just general opinions too?

Does brass have grades like steel or aluminum?

I'm going to make some parts out of it but don't see any variety in stock choices and i have some random assortment on hand.


Also bronze is fucking expensive

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I got this vacuum pump, and foolishly lost the manual, and now I don't know what oil I need to put in it. It had some oil, but it's gone now.

Any help?

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>>1126596
>vacuum pump,
>oil