Spaghetti Edition

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OLD THREAD
>>1108289
>>1108289
>>1108289
>>1108289
cause I'm retarded.

Also post printers printing

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>>1116334
>post printers printing
If you insist.

>>1116334
Everyone who has Octoprint or Astroprint should be able to get real easy time lapses.
Should post some, I know there are people who say they are running it

some responses to ideas in the previous thread.

>strengthening/heat resistant PLA
you can anneal it with hot water.

>acetone is worthless on PLA
i've heard its soluble enough to be used as cement, but not enough to smooth on its own.

>>1116354
Are you using cum as a bed coating?

>>1116403
PVA glue diluted with water.

>>1116392
>hot water pla
Oh nice.

Is there any shrinkage?


Also, would AliExpress/chinese site links to parts be useful? Im putting together a new printer so I might consider formatting it nicely for the thread.

My teacher bought an Anet A8.

Will he burn?

>>1116508
Only if he fails to connect the thermocouple properly. I don't know about the Prusa clones specifically but other printer firmware now has functions that detect if the heater isn't causing a rise in temps. The only real risk is if you walk away immediately after starting a print. As long as you watch the first layer and check that it extrudes you're probably safe as long as a 1 in 1,000,000 event like the thermocouple detaching mid-print (every report I've read of 3D printer fires has either been caused by an external factor or improper assembly) it should be fine.

The danger comes from the heater running constantly because the temperature rise isn't detected. Even when this happens, I understand that you probably won't get fire unless there's a lot of flammable plastic around the hot end or the nozzle is caked with previously extruded plastic. An RCCB is probably a good idea if your operating environment doesn't have them centrally.

>>1116413
Yes a fair bit actually. Honestly for strength just print ABS. People have compared annealed PLA to ABS and annealed PLA comes out stronger but if you need strength acetone-smoothed ABS is dimensionally accurate and stronger than even annealed PLA

>>1116552
My issue is that I don't have the cash to upgrade my bed for abs.

I'd need a new PSU, heated bed and accessories.

Not to mention new filament.

From my reading I see that there is no point in attempting to use ABS without a heated bed.

>>1116580
Yeah really don't try without a heated bed

>>1116580
Why not get PETG filament then

Any ideas on how to clean carbonized PETG? My E3D chimera's primary heater block is covered in a black, hard plastic from leftover PETG hardening on it. I tried heating it to around 280 last night but it's on there good. Propane torches and ovens probably aren't good options unless I want to destroy the heating element and thermistor I guess.

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On the topic of endless PETG questions, has anyone successfully used 50/50 MEK + Cyclohexanone to weld parts?

Supposedly it works but my attempt only gave the surface a dullish white residue.

Any place I can get decent leadscrews with flat cuts? Misumi charges out the ass for stepped and cut leadscrews and I don't think they state the lead or start.

I'm trying to design a 3 screw : 1 motor z-axis bed.

What's the policy on linking openbuilds projects in here, I posted a few days ago about what I should get and was looking at some designs, one in particular caught my interest and would like for some of you more experienced folks to tell me what you think.

>>1116855
link all the things

>>1116891

I'm looking at complete builds over there. I was looking through corexy's because I like the system behind them, but then I found this http://openbuilds.org/builds/indie-i2.1976/ which is interesting to me because the portable aspect of it and the overall aestheticof it. He designed it to be taken apart in 3 main components. I would like to expand the build volume of it because i want to print the planes the folks over at 3dprintlab designed, but then again I can only work with their vague "We highly recommend Heated Bed. Build volume 200/200/200 mm is big enough and 195/195/150mm or 250/120/150mm will work with most off our planes, but bigger is sometimes better…" on their website, so I guess 200mm cube should do it, on the discussion thread the designer seems very cooperative so at least i got that going in for him

>>1116905
I don't see anything terribly wrong with it, but it looks fairly small and lightweight.

Even if the build volume is small, the momentum from moving parts can be significant, so the heavier, more rigid, and more reinforced a printer is the better. Usually that means a more intricate frame with several points of reinforcement. CoreXYs, for example, are known to be pretty good at higher speeds, and part of that is because most of them have overdesigned cube frames made out of aluminum extrusions, while prusa i3 variants use sheet metal and wood boards.

If you have spare money that you don't mind blowing then I'd go for it. Otherwise a known kit is going to give you better bang for buck imo.

>>1116917

I'm guessing the aluminium build could help with small and simple design on that printer. Anything you'd recommend me to look at? Thanks for taking a look. I'll contact the designer for sourcing and budgeting for a 20cm build cube version in the meantime because the ability to neatly pack the printer is quite interesting.

>>1116927
The D-bot is a popular corexy and more importantly, it has a dedicated community. I'd just go with that

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Back again and it's almost working. For some reasoning the starting position of every layer (align on one edge) bulges out and it gets worse with each higher layer. The other edges are nearly perfect now but the starting positions are fucked up and I have no idea why. I've played around with retraction and extrusion rate and the rest of the cube is a-ok.

Maybe it has to do with the DRV8825? It looks like the nozzle is actually moving in a way that it's printing the bulge as if it were there.

>>1117030
That's your z seam, you're still extruding when the printer's stopped and the z motors are moving up a layer.
Fix your retraction settings in your slicer software, you won't eliminate it but it won't be anywhere near as bad

So doing PLA 190-195C hotend with a bed between 60-65 and can't seem to get any consistent sticking at any temps between those ranges.

I'm going nuts everything is just sticking on the hotend or at best ending up with scarring on the bottom layer though more often just not sticking. Bed is pretty adhesive as well. It was working fine for the longest and I know its level. I'm wondering if its because a little PLA is on the nozzle itself and its just clinging to it somehow or I have no idea.

Silver hatchbox if it helps. I give up, I had it working so consistently well for a long time.

>>1117065
I use 210 for Hatchbox PLA, try that. I've never gone lower than 200.

>>1117068
Seems to be working thank you.

>>1116329
i used nuts to space my build plate as evenly as possible and i'm still getting a .1mm height difference on the Y axis. Why is this happening? The nuts should be exactly the same height.

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>>1116329
what the fuck is this shit
i set the infill to 100%

>>1116932

thanks man, gonna look into that. Definetly along the lines of what I was considering at first hand.

>>1117091
wall thickness and perimeter settings are borked

Fuck RAMPS I want to switch to better board.

What do you guys use?

>>1117060
I've never had a seam that bad on my Wanhao i3.

>>1117179
What dont you like about Ramps

>>1116329

Please put the text "3dpg" in the OP in future so it actually shows up when searching catalog

>>1116392

Would using ethyl acetate instead of acetone not work for smoothing PLA in a vapour bath? Temp would need to be a little higher, but should do the trick.

I'll test on the weekend and report back

>>1117030
I want to bite your finger nails

>>1117216
I cut them shortly after taking that picture. Too bad anon, maybe next time

I want to print a vacuum cup for the CNC machine at work, is there a program that allows me to start with a plain square and then slice it into the shape I need??
Never attempted to create my own program before.

>>1117232

Literally any 3d modelling software.

My favourite is FreeCAD, because open source and parametric [spoiler]and I'm a masochist [/spoiler]

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>>1117262
>FreeCAD
It is good, but remember to save often. If you are not a masochist fusion 360 might be easier for noob.

>>1117288
also don't rely on the autosave feature, it's unreliable garbage

>>1117313

And dont try and extrude 900 paths at the same time on an old thinkpad with onboard intel graphics card.

That way madness lies.

Ok, so I have a quick noob question that's killing me. I have a prusa i3 printer set up and I'm on to the programming and configuration portion. Thing is the x axis and its end stop is giving me trouble. I have the end stop on the right side of the printer and have altered my config.h so that when i press right in pronterface, the x axis moves right. The problem is my end stop behaves like its on the other side of my printer. When the end stop isn't pressed, I'm free to move the x axis in either direction, but when i press it, I can no longer move the x axis left. Of course the end stop is on the right side so this doesn't make much sense. The opposite is what I want; where if the end stop on the right is triggered, it no longer allows me to go right. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Ive been looking over this config file for a day.

Also, its running off of an arduino mega and the RAMPs 1.4 using standard marlin firmware. Any help is appreciated.

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>>1117474
Turn the axis around in firmware or change the location of the endstop or reverse the wires to the stepper.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/RC/Marlin/Configuration.h

You bought a cheap chinkshit kit? This is probably the 10th time I've seen this issue lately.

>>1117475
Sourced it myself. I believe the arduino is Italian shit. Not sure about the RAMPs board, bought it second hand. I don't really want to move the end stop mount, so I guess ill try reversing the motor and playing with the firmware again.

Thanks for the quick response anon

>>1117479
arduino IS Italian...


just double check your wires and switches

>>1117479

I have mine set up the same way, here's my Configurtion.h related to X-axis direction:

#define INVERT_X_DIR true
#define X_HOME_DIR 1

>>1117491

Btw forgot to mention - you should also check if your endstop logic is set to "Normally Open" or "Normally Closed" and set it accordingly, where it says:

// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).

>>1117485
I know its Italian, that was the joke albeit an unfunny one.

>>1117492
I already got the switch to usually closed. Ill try the config.h changes and reversing the motor. Thanks again anon.

>>1117474
Do you have a good reason why your endstop is on the MAX side of your carriage?
Most people home min-min-min which would by
>x to the left
>y to the back
>z to the bottom.

After an endstop trigger you can no longer move left means that you have your endstop set to MIN, while its physically in the MAX position.

Move your endstop to the left. Its standard there.

If you want to mirror your prints and have your home be backwards, reverse the motor and leave the endstop.
If you want to keep the endstop and not mirror the prints, set your Endstop settings in config H to run X MAX instead of MIN. Itll home on the wrong side, but you wont have to reverse the motors and itll print correctly.

If you dont want to deal with all the horse shit relocate your endstop to where its supposed to be.

>>1117512
>I already got the switch to usually closed.

Run M119 in the command line on Printrun
Itll tell you if your endstops are triggered or not which helps things out too

Does anyone have a link to a Cura config for Replicator 2x? (flashforge really but same shit)

Slic3r crashes constantly so I wanted to try something new, and I can get around the x3g vs gcode deal, but Cura sets up differently so its hard to get it to not poop in the corner and try to slam the bed through the floor.

noob here,

im considering to buy a printer, never had one before or even touched one. i found a i3 clone on ebay which i want to buy and my question is, whats the next step?
i know its not plug in and play.
what would be some steps what i would need to do? configuring, tuning ,..
is a arduino necessary, or anything other?

sadly i dont know much about this stuff but im not stupid and learn fast.
help a faggot out

When I flip the power switch on my printer the lights turn on but everything is silent. The LCD screen turns on and commands can be selected but nothing happens. Is this something I can fix? I'm on a Monoprice Maker Ultimate (same as Wanhao Duplicator 6).

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>>1117768
Sounds like your power supply is dead

Standard reprap runs 2 power supplies. You give power to your electronics with USB (or the DC power jack), and then you have an external 12v power supply.

Your LCD will turn on, you can give it commands to heat up or move, but without the heavy 12v power supply running it will just spool the commands and not move.

Fans run off 12v too, and there is a fan on the PSU. So no noise sounds like dead PSU to me.
Looks like a standard LED driver PSU like everyone uses. You can replace it for like 20$ if it turns out the PSU is indeed dead

>>1117764
There are guides for pretty much everything, and they are getting better about documentation on putting the printers together.

Its not so bad, just overwhelming at first and tedious to eventually get where you want to be.
There is no good answer because you wont know until you hit the roadblocks

Probably something that has been asked before.. but... I'm using a CreatBot DX and am having trouble getting reliable prints for a number of reasons:

1) Extruder 1 doesn't seem to work right, and I can't explain why. Can feed through fillament to it, and when I push, it'll come out (assuming up to temp). If I try to print something with it, nothing comes out (have checked the motor to push the fillament does run)
2) I'm stuck with the shitty CreatBot software (Cura clone?) due to the above problem so that I can select Extruder 1 - as far as I can tell, Cura doesn't let you select a different Extruder
3) When I do manage to get something to print, it normally fails halfway through - when I say fails, the heads are still heated and are moving around, but no filament is being pushed through.
4) If something does manage to print, it looks stringy and crap.

Been trying only with PLA until I get it working.

If anyone can offer any suggestions, I'm all ears.

>>1117787

1) Are you sure you have enough clearance between the nozzle and the bed? (the paper leveling test). If the nozzle is too close you're pretty much plugging it up with the bed surface. Check if the hob is grinding away your filament and if it's even turning while printing.

2) Have you tried Slic3r? You can set which extruder is used for what without much fuss. Dual extruder support in Cura has been patchy in the past, but with the new Ultimaker 3 that might have changed. Check the newest version, maybe they added those options. If you insist on using Cura, you might also give this plugin a try:

https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/wiki/Select-Extruder-plugin

3) Have you checked for clogs? Have you tried doing a cold pull? Do the checks in 1) to make sure the filament is actually being driven.

4) Add more retraction to the slicing settings, try putting the part cooling fan at full blast. Dialling down the print speed might also help.

>>1117790

Thanks for the reply, really appreciate it.

1) Yeah, I have done that. Is that the only thing that would cause what I've described?
2) I have not! I will give it a try :)
3) No, I have not checked for clogs - I assume I have to take out the pipe that the filament feeds in through? How does one do a cold pull?
4) Cheers, I have slowed it right down but haven't tried more fan.

My printer is in cologne, the hype is real.

>>1117787
Heat creep.

When your extruder fails, "change filament" or whatever to retract your filament out and cut off the last 4-5 inches.

If you see "grinding" (flat spot) where the extruder gear is wearing down the PLA then heat is traveling up the filament. The warn filament gets too soft and the gear chews right through it.

PLA carries heat really well. You might have to upgrade your extruder and reduce your retraction distance.

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>>1117798

No prob.

1) It's a guess, there are many possible causes, some of which i've mentioned like not enough stepper current, hob not biting down, filament grinding... You really need to have a good look at it during operation to know.

3) Yes, you should be able to pull out the pipe out and feed some filament manually. Heat the extruder, then push some filament in by hand so it extrudes out the nozzle. After that, cool the hotend down and once the plastic is solid, yank the filament out. Hopefully it will pull out any debris with it. This is best done with more elastic filaments like nylon. A transparent filament will help you see the bits if there's any.

4) What filament are you using?

>>1117832

He mentioned it's a "Creatbot DX" which is an ultimaker clone with a bowden extruder so i doubt it's that. Friction in the tube could also cause grinding though.

>>1117774
Thanks so much for the reply. I think this is it. For future reference , do psus fail for preventable reasons or is it just a Chinese lemon issue?

>>1117834

I'm using 3mm PLA

Anyone use the MKS SBase 1.3? I'm looking for 32-bit upgrade paths with some quiet drivers that aren't broken.

I've been told the Duet Wifi's firmware is hacky trash so I've been looking at smoothieware options but the Smoothieboard 2 and Azteeg x5 GT are in development hell, so I'm wondering if this chinese stuff will hold me over.

So the tape around my Hotend just ripped. I'm assuming this is just kapton tape and I can just order a roll of it to replace it? Or is it some sort of ceramic tape since it has a white inner layer?

Could I potentially run it without it safely given that some printers don't even have it all?

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Hi guys. Just getting into the 3D printing gig with a mindset to make a side-hustle. It's neat to think I can have a printer make money at home while I make money at work.
But it's probably 60% a toy for me that I hope pays for itself in a year's time.

I do want to take up modeling, so I'm asking charities to present me with some problems they're having. I'll be designing and printing solutions for them, and they have an understanding they may not be perfect/will break.

I wanted something reliable that I can mod later on. A solid, US-made base that I can teach msyelf on without having to go through the school of hard knocks (bad parts in general, lemons) and was recommended the M2 with the caution: It's expensive, made with great parts, probably overkill and desu wouldn't have made a bad decision getting two prusa mk i3, but has a pretty good record. The steel frame intrigues me the most.

Now luckily enough I was able to find a guy on craigslist selling it for a few hundred dollars off retail. No warranty, but it looks like new ones come with 6 months anyways and looks to me they last a helluva lot longer. It's a Rev. D, a generation behind but he added an electronics box. Prints great from the pics I see and I got that shit on paypal anyways.

What gets me is the way the bed moves seems like it'd be the worst for print accuracy. Something that gently lowered it with Z alone seems it'd be best.
What makes Makergear's design so solid?

>>1118208
1. it's kapton tape around ceramic insulation. i just ordered a pack of sick from chinaland for like 4 bucks.

And safe to use. It just stabilizes the temp since less gets lost from metal-to-air contact.

>>1118226
Cool thanks. Was trying to find it on amazon because I'm an impatient ass. These things always seem oddly named there though and oddly hard to find for a shop with so much stuff.

>>1118225
>printer make money at home while I make money at work.
You better have some fire safety equipment ready, 3D printers are still largely unreliable in terms of fire safety

>>1118235
>3D printers are still largely unreliable in terms of fire safety

only if you defeat the failsafes

>>1117889
PSUs fail cause they are chinese garbage

But nobody is gonna pay 90$ for one when you can get a cheap 20$ one that should last a long time

>>1118256
Anyone have a link to a reasonable quality, sorta cheap psu?

>>1118320
Just buy the cheapest shit you can find on aliexpress/eBay, will be like $15 or so. You can buy two of them and have one backup, still costs far less than a good western one.

>>1118333
I actually just found an old ATX power supply.

Says 340 watts, output is 16A on the 12v rail.

Ill just mod this one. 16A Should be enough for the ramps, hotend and heated bed..... r-right?

>>1118338
200W isn't much for all that shit, plus I heard that shittier supplies can't really deliver those numbers constantly, not sure how true that is

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>>1118339
Here it is. Has two 12v rails actually. So presumably i can take 18A in reality.

>>1118348

One normally adds a 20% safety margin between the max power output of the supply and the max power the device is going to consume at any given time. So assuming you hook up a typical bed consuming a max of 15A, that 18A rail might cover it? The thing with ATX power supplies is that you're getting 2-3 weak 12V supplies in one package instead of a single beefy one, and picking a good one is tricky.

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>>1118367
It can supply 300w out of the combined 12v rails. Pic related.

>>1118235
>>1118255
It not being a cheap chink soldering Job gives me confidence. Though I'm thinking an enclosure with metal walls.

>>1118378

Yeah, if you can combine them it should be enough. I'm using a 320W 12V LED supply and it doesn't even get hot.

>>1118256
You will if $70 is a drop in the bucket vs what you'll lose more than 70 during downtime.

Cheap out on non-vital parts, but your PSU is too important to leave to cheap shit

>>1118333
That's a good idea until you realize when your shit burns down you'll have to replace a lot more than a $15 PSU.

>>1117774
The PSU in that picture is a 24v psu
>>1118338
>>1118348
>>1118378
You need to see if your printer is running 12 or 24v psu

>>1118433
If anyone is actually serious about making money with 3d printing, nobody fucks around with cheap garbage printers that burn out PSUs.

If downtime was that important and vital, you wouldn't be using a printer off this tier.
Everyone thinks that are going to make a ton of money with cheap printers, and everyone eventually fails when they realize it's literally not worth their time.

>>1118438
Its running 12v at 8 amps with no heated bed.

Ramps1. 4
Arduino mega whatever
Something called a witbox hotend
5 xnema 17s
3 x40mm fans

>>1118439
Thanks for your logic. All's I was just trying to say.

Who waiting for a /prusa/ here?

>>1118496
i don't think there's enough traffic to worry about that for a while

>>1118496
When has it not been a two month wait?

I'd have one but fuck the hell out of that wait. He's losing so much business right now.

Either by people who buy cheap shit printers that break and they now can't afford the prusa,

Or people who buy better shit that's twice the price. Shit works like a dream so why get a prusa?

I've bought two printers in less than two months. Found an excellent printer and can't justify the few hundred dollar savings on a printer that's only been out since May vs proven reliability of pricier units I can get faster.

>>1118500
>immediate gratification culture : the post

Unless you're a business, you don't need a printer RIGHT NOW. And if you're a business, pay prusa more, or buy a professional one you fuck.

>>1118500
I figured he was meaning all the prusa and clones in general. They are essentially the same printers electronically, just the same design out of different materials.

>>1118506
You don't need a printer at all so I don't see your point.

I'm going to instead do what I want. You're going to do what you want.

And that's magic.

Hey guys. Same guy with the endstop problems as before. After some tinkering, I got the whole endstops-at-max thing to work... sort of. Once I did I realized that having the endstop for the z at max was stupid for a range of reasons. So I went with your advice >>1117551
and just put all the endstops where they're supposed to go (at min for all 3 axis). So for the help so far, id like to thank you guys.

Now I've run into a problem that has me scratching my head. I'm trying to set up the homing for the endstops but the z is giving me trouble. I know all of the endstops work because I can use pronterface to move the carriage into them, which promptly stops the printer. The trouble is when I hit home for z, the motors just sort of hum loudly but don't turn. Homing for the other 2 axis works perfectly. How can pronterface move the z axis with the normal manual controls, but malfunction only when homing? Ive googled a bit and it seems like a step setting issue, but wouldn't that affect controlling the z under all circumstances?

>>1118552
I'm a 28 year old director of an engineering firm ; ^ ).

Stay mad
X.

>>1118605
Your homing speed for Z is set to a value that is too high, and its making your Z steppers lock up.

Pronterface is moving your Z axis as fast as you tell it. See there is a box for your mm/s for the Z? If you crank it up and tell it to move, itll lock up too.

When you home it, pronterface sends a command to home, at which point your printer takes over and homes automatically using its own speeds that are in firmware. Not using pronterfaces speeds you typed into the box.


You need to slow down your Max Homing Feedrate in firmware.

Are there any good 32-bit boards for a printer with dual extrusion?

How can I safely check that the ground for my socket is working properly? It's to ground a mains powered heated bed

>>1118641
Engineer here.

Looks like you're at that young age where you're ripe to fuck your career up thinking you're the shit.

>>1118208
I just bought a 10mm wide roll of kapton and put like 6 layers of it all over then cut out the holes, works fine. Without it particularly with an all metal hotend the heat will travel up and glass transition lowtemp plastics too soon causing jams. Kapton blocks a lot of radiant heat which can warp the shit out the part directly under the heater block

Is there a reason the bottom layer would look a bit shitty?

I use to get near perfect prints very consistently. Now the bottom layer seems uneven with some indentations, uneven parts, and just a lot of general imperfections. Once its one to the higher layers its fine.

I've been running the printer for about a year, maybe something out of the ordinary is out of tune. The nozzle wearing out? Or the fact that later layers have cooling, but that was the same before.

any ideas for plugable connectors for a heated bed?

>>1118785
You need a low resistance ohmmeter, multimeter won't cut it. Use a flying lead to measure the resistance between the main earth bond at your service demarcation point and the earth at the socket. Consult your local regulations to ensure the value you measure is within range.
A proper testing meter is expensive however typically kit aimed at electricians for testing installs will allow you to test circuit current imbalance (gfci/rcd) which you probably should check and insulation resistance which probably won't make much of a difference in your situation but its useful to make sure the rest of your house doesn't burn down.
You also should test the overcurrent protection (breaker/fuse/mcb) operates within the defined curve otherwise your ground connection won't help you even if its in good condition.

There are quick and dirty ways to do these tests but no fucking way I'm explaining them to someone over the internet to go kill themselves with.

>>1119077
Oh yeah btw if you use an electric blanket while your in the bed your a moran

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>>1119065

Ring terminals. Solder a short copper bolt on each pad of the bed, hook up the terminals and finally secure them with a nut.

>>1119049
-Uneven surface (glue?)
-Not level build plate
-Worn-out bed (might be possible with glass)
-Warped bed (heat fatigue)

Those are the things I can think of. What's your bed?

>>1119145
It's one big aluminum plate, not a PCB bed or something. How do I solder a giant heatsink? I only have shitty chinese irons.

I was asking about connecting wires anyway, like a molex, except for 12 gauge.

Right now I'm looking at the Wago 221 lever-nut connector

>>1119198
Tape the wires on, get it to operating temps, then solder it?

>>1119206
I don't get it, you want me to use the wires as the point of contact for the iron and heat it up? Wouldn't trying to solder a hot wire onto a cold aluminum plate cause a shitty solder joint? Also, it's a smooth plate, there's nothing for the solder to really hang onto.

>>1119228
Tape the power wires to the heated bed, run your heated bed till its hot
Then solder the wires onto a hot bed

>>1119155
Aluminum build plate with a sheet of PEI adhered to it. Pretty sure its level.

Its like its an extrusion issue with stringing and not fully sticking or almost like the 2nd extruder dragging in it (I disabled this piece of shit to keep that from happening a while ago though because leveling both is impossible and nearly pointless anyway), but yet it only happens on the first layer. The rest are fine and I start cooling usually around layer 6 depending on the part.

https://www.ultibots.com/d300vs-3d-printer-diy-kit/
Thinkin' about getting one of these new Ultibot Deltas in a few months.

Rosock owners recommend them as they've got better parts. Plus has a Duet Wifi that it comes with. Between this and my makergear M2, I should have a nice little setup.
Brand new so I'm gonna let people burn it in first. I've been spoiled by my M2's pure fucking reliability.

>>1119797
>$950 Kossel
you should seriously consider self sourcing this one
all the parts it uses are either readily available or 3D printed
and it's a super simple mechanical design with lots of community support
you'll easily save $2-300 and are able to fix this ones' shortcomings
220W at ⌀300mm will take forever to reach a reasonable temperature
by replacing it with a mains powered one you'll get twice the power and avoid the fire risk of 10A
you'll also significantly reduce the printer's footprint since you can get a smaller PSU which will fit within the base
the effector design is a bit sketchy and super prone to tilting due to its high mounting points and tall size
(you can see the effects of this tilt on the rocket's tip in their pictures)
you'll either want to move the extruder on top of the effector, or even better only use three balljoints but make them larger so that two arms sit on each one
this will eliminate the possibility of tilt completely
I personally wouldn't trust V-slot rollers as an accurate linear motion system and would replace them with proper linear guides
but that's mostly because I'm used to industrial motion systems and they just look flimsy and inherently inaccurate in comparison
in reality they are probably good enough for a 3d printer

I am trying to print a particularly long object in abs and it just warps off the plate (Just the sides up 1cm or so but it ruins the print) even with enclosure and various adhesion tricks like hairspray or glue stick. What's the strongest method for glass? I think it's abs slurry but I've no idea what consistency to mix it at. I suspect it will layer crack with strong enough adhesion but if that happens I can start to deal with it.

>>1119872
PVA glue that is applied DIRECTLY before printing (i.e. so it's still tacky and not 100% dry, but not so much that it's liquid) helps me. Also, have you used brims before? I find they're very useful to prevent warping when printing. I think the max I've used is 5-7mm.

>>1119872
abs slurry works great on glass
but as far as ratios/consitency i just threw in enough abs until the acetone can't take anymore abs pieces

it should be runny and thin, not like the consistency of elmers glue (thinner than that) at least that's what worked for me

>>1119927
also, abs slurry should be applied to a cold bed

>>1119872
long/wide objects can be tricky

what temp do you have your bed set to?

anyone have experience with the new aluminum prusa kits ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220-220-300m-Size-Aluminum-Prusa-I3-X3-3D-Printer-DIY-KIT-Manual-leveling-Bundle-/122223456645?hash=item1c7515f185:g:cocAAOSwcUBYJxEe

>>1119868
I see. I was trying to avoid a build because desu I've been put off combing ebay for deals on parts I pray are good.

If I source it myself I'll probably just do a very tall D-Bot.

File: brim.png (35KB, 276x266px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1119872

Have you tried adding a brim in the slicing settings?

>>1120144
Oh I didn't want to discourage you from building one,
Deltabots are truly amazing machines, just watching one printing is so much fun
they are also by far the easiest to diy since the mechanical design is simple and mostly symmetrical
combing ebay for deals is only necessary when you are on a tight budget
With $600+ you can buy name brands that have proven to be good

So is there any reliable way to smooth small or complex surfaces printed with PLA?

I can sandpaper a nice finish on flat surfaces or large objects, but smaller ones are impossible and they look completely ass if painted on.

Thanks guys, >>1119929 is what I was missing. I made ABS slurry with the consistency of milk roughly and applied it cold. I had trouble reapplying after the print though, basically wiping the new slurry knocked all the unused stuff away instead of re-dissolving. What's the way to do that and is it an every print type thing?

>>1119919
>>1120156
Yep, mostly use a brim, typically 15 outline wide.. Tried a raft once and it lifted. I'll try the PVA that way

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>>1116329
i was printing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1190787 ,
then this happened (
pic related). Any idea why? im using simplify 3d

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hey /3dpg/

I seem to be over extruding on infill.

Perimeters extrude perfectly but infill seem to be too much and the hot end nozzle drags over the print and jitters around and shit.

Why would this be happening?

Perhaps it IS NOT over extruding, but that perimeters are not a multiple of the nozzle width (400microns) , so something that is say 1mm wide would end up having 1.2mm worth of plastic laid down.

If that's the case, should I tone down my extrusion width multiplier?

Pic related in slic3r.

>>1120217
I see. Well I mean if it's easier.
Where would be a good base guide I could find?

Someone posted last thread that Cura was telling them models were too big to fit the build platform (even if they fit before).

I just had this problem, but fixed it by reducing the skirt distance (eg.10mm down to 5mm)

>>1120242
have you tried a heat gun?

>>1120330

Does the infill end up looking rough and uneven?
Are you printing with PETG by any chance?
Are you also having trouble laying the first few top layers over the infill and closing tops off?

If most of those are "yes", add more cooling for the part. I had the same problem a few weeks ago.

File: IMG_20170124_103338.jpg (1MB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

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???????

Are ayy lmaos communicating with me?

I was wondering if you can use a 3d printed object as a mold for aluminium casting. I've seen people make objects from styrofoam, then burying them in a bucket of sand, followed by pouring liquid alu over it. The metal burns away the styrofoam and fills the cavity, forming pretty good one time use molds. Would the same work with a 3d printed object? Has anyone tried this before?

>>1120603
yes

>>1120603

It's a very big hassle and a potentially deadly procedure, but it can be done. Watch the whole thing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWVVSZP3Au4

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>>1120260
I tried ABS slurry on cold glass, let it dry, heated it to 110 for the first layer and kept it at 95 for the remaining layers. It's definitely better but still not sticking well enough. I managed to print a phone case without it lifting which is great because it was before. I think part of the issue is that it's lifting where there is large amounts of just support material which has fairly poor adhesion since it's just an infillish pattern. 245 in an enclosure with a microswiss hotend. Not sure why I can't have a brim on supports but surely it can't be this difficult to get a print this long to stick?

>>1120652
The guys at my workplace use J8567 on a glass bed. Haven't used it myself yet but from what I've seen it gives crazy bed adhesion. To the point where the print delaminates before it comes loose.
Maybe it's worth a try for you.

>>1120678
What is it? I looked it up and google returned packs of shipping labels

>>1120681
Jea, It's a transparent adhesive sheet ment to be used as shipping label.

File: 3dprinter.jpg (238KB, 1791x859px) Image search: [Google]

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Does anyone have experience with https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/ ? I can't believe a delta kit with injected joints is this cheap

>>1120273
Pls respond. S. O. S. My infill doenst come out properly.

>>1120792
>>1120273

I've had similar happen to me, where the first infill layer dodnt attach properly, so curled up into little lumps that the higher layers catch on making them grow like a snowball.

Try turning down the infill print speed a bit, or increase width for the infill - that helped me

>>1120705
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/high-quality-factory-delta-3d-printer-for-sale-with-40m-Filament-8GB-SD-card-LCD-masking/32495135437.html

https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/diy-kit/flsun-3d-kossel-delta-diy-kit

Looks similar

File: enlightened.png (248KB, 629x399px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1120646
Cheers, that video is really informational.

>>1120792

First check if it's the the gcode that is fucking up and not the printer. If it's not that, check for underextrusion, cooling issues...

>>1120568
Nah, probably just swapped your LCD with your SD cable.

File: fuckin_infill.png (60KB, 1382x1130px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1120273
>>1120840
>>1120803
these are my settings i just changed infill ffrom 100% to 120%, anything else i should change?

>>1120847
>anything
Check for temperature issues (heating AND cooling)
Check layer height/bed leveling
Check your travel speed/retraction

>>1120568
Yes.
Print anal probe immediately

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>mfw wiring up mains power to a chinkshit psu
It must be what defusing bombs is like.

>>1120990
protip unplugging it first makes it a lot safer
and you don't have to worry about blowing yourself up

>>1120991
Lol, I'm not suicidal. Was still half expecting sparks and blue smoke when I plugged it in.

>>1120846
Its an intermittent problem that only occurs when printing.


No idea what's causing it. It's recent.

>>1121039
If you press the Menu button once the glitches appear, do you see the normal menu?

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>>1120847

I meant check the actual visualization of your gcode. It's possible for it to generate messed up infill under wrong assumptions for some parameters, so it's good to rule that out first.

>>1121039

LCD's usually get that problem when there's an issue with the 4bit data bus line. Any of the other pins like Enable Read/Write and Register Select could also be causing it. AKA, check the wiring for intermittent faults.

>>1121061
Also intermittent.
Prints don't fail, but the screen responds sometimes if i leave it 30 mins.
Sometimes not.

If the fucker just stopped working the issue would be easier to solve.... Fug.

>>1121078
None of the wiring has changed.
The fault developed mid print yesterday.

I also had a look for corroded, melted or generally shit stained connections.... Nothing


Could it potentially be interference or high frequency transients - especially given that it happens only when printing?

>>1121081

I assumed the wiring hasn't changed, the fault is likely to be something more subtle like cold/cracked solder joints that lose connection when the temperature varies or you sneeze at it the wrong way. The manufacturing quality of these panels isn't exactly rock-solid. Next time it does this, give it a tap, especially at the lcd itself's connections and see if it gets better. You can also try bypassing the panel and wiring the LCD directly to the arduino pins with some dupont-connector wires.

File: U-382BDI_a37tHKKHFcvyPwOe7D2QdZ9i7vbctodKd4.jpg (119KB, 1024x576px) Image search: [Google]

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I did a benchy.

Temperature for the first layer was 195ºC

For the rest it was 190

Retraction was set to 2 mm at 70 mm/s

Print speed is 55 mm/s and a travel speed of 90 mm/s.

Infill was 20%

Did this on a wanhao duplicator i3 v2.1, what should I change to make stuff like overhangs be better in future prints?

>>1121219
Try running 3mm at 150mm/s, it's what I used on mine. Other than that your settings look good.

I used to get unsightly lines on the outside of my prints until I turned off "wipe nozzle" in Simplify3D.

I had a maker select for what it's worth.

>>1121219
>>1121236
It's also worth checking if your nozzle is clogged. I just noticed in the lower left, there looks to be a line of inconsistent extrusion.

Easy way to check is to tell the select to extrude some filament. If it curls, it's worth looking into.

>>1121219
Turn on the part cooling fan.

>>1121242
Also this if you haven't.

We're gonna get you going, anon.
Also have you looked at the thread on reddit regarding the power connectors that'll burn out? There's some good info if you wanna save your board, there's an issue in the maker select/duplicator i3

>>1121246
Doesn't that only happen with ABS-level temperatures? I'm only going to be doing PLA.

>>1121239
It does curl, how do I go about checking if it's clogged?

>>1120568
>>1121039
This happens to me too sometimes; the first few times I flipped out and thought I broke something - eventually I figured out that it was due to static buildup / discharge from me touching the metal knob or frame. It goes away if you click the knob (if that goes into a menu, like it does for me).

I'm not 100% sure this is the same problem you have but it's possible.

>>1120646
>potentially deadly
How so? Due to the nature of metal casting, or is it because of the PLA specifically?

>>1121085
>>1121254
Thanks senpaitachi.

Ill take a wire and ground the board.
Ill take give it a shake for dodgy joints too.

>>1121256

The nature of casting metals - there are many cases where molten metal can potentially come into contact with moisture and explode chunks of hot metal in your face. The mold can explode too if it hasn't dried properly. Cool it too fast and it cracks... You can see the person explain everything in the end of the video - there's a protective suit involved, heating and drying the ground if it's snowy etc.

File: Safety first.jpg (43KB, 600x597px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1121265
Oh, okay. I thought you meant above and beyond regular casting dangers. When I cast aluminum, we used slightly-fine sand and packed it around the master, but it was very dry; then we dumped it into a wheelbarrow after 10-15 minutes and tossed it into the snow. I don't know if it was because of the kind of aluminum we were using (basically scraps) or if we all got lucky, but there were no issues. Surprising how lax university safety rules are.

Follow all safety procedures, though, kids. If molten aluminum gets on your legs, they gone. They vaporize.

>>1121219
Update people, I just did an atomic pull, and look what came out, it's definetly cleaner now and it can print straight.

>>1121268

Yeah the PLA is just there instead of wax, it's one of the lower melting-temp plastics too. At the temperatures for melting aluminium it would pretty much turn to ash and disappear. There are high-detail wax 3d printers especially for casting metals btw, but they're expensive.

>>1121252
If you're lucky you can just remove the nozzle and the clog be there, else you'll have to disassemble your extruder. To just remove the nozzle, heat it up to pla temps. Then, hold the cooling block with a wrench while you unscrew the nozzle with another wrench/whatever.

If it's farther up the line above the cooling block, unscrew the fans. Watch out, fans hold the extruder stepper motor there too, so hold it while you loosen the screw from the fan. From there, you'll ahve access to the top of the cooling block where the filament goes in and there will be your clogged filament if not in the nozzle. May be worth doing solution 1 and 2 backwards for the experience.

Clogs happen anon, it's no big. Don't jam a drill bit in there ruining your nozzle, this is safe and quick way to do it.

>>1121291
Oh fuckin' sweet. I never think of the pull. Grats anon.

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>>1116329
My ocarina came out not so nice. The early layers are misformed and tjhinnner than they should be. How do i stop this? i believe it has something to do with the raft or other support.

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>>1121503
2nd view. uising simplify 3D

>>1117215
did you ever test it?

supposedly ethyl acetate will work, but it works better to be lightly painted on.

but i wonder if PVC primer will also work (for vapor bath), since its:
Tetrahydrofuran (thf) , Methyl Ethyl Ketone (mek) , Cyclohexanone , Acetone

>>1121503
>>1121504
looks like overheating to me, gonna guess you're using PLA? try printing one of those part cooling fan things for your extruder.
if you can, might want to try increasing minimum layer time.

>>1121219
Btw, besides from that, are the bridging issues caused by the clog? or do I have to change my PLA temperature?

I'm using a lulzbot taz 5 for about a year now.
Suddenly my print bed i making thing have extremely round, radius of 3 mm or more, corners in random areas.
When I do test calibrations and temperature checks everything comes back fine.
If I print a full bed to 2 mm, its fine.
Soon as I print something I want, a corner randomly rolls in, even if its been solid before.
Bed temp is 100 and extruder 230, area is enclosed and achieves ~50C

File: Screenshot (74).png (2MB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]

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Sorry about the quality of the image.

Anyone have any ideas why my prints are all over the place?

Prusa i3 hephestos
Lead screw driven Z-axis
Belt driven x & Y
Slic3r used
0.2mm layer height.
210C for first height
200C for the rest
Printed at 75mm/s
PLA
No post processing.

>>1120990
Mate, all power supplies are chinkshit already.

Just, a good idea is to seal the terminals afterwards with a good resin.

>>1121504
Seconding this. That PLA needed more cooling time between those short layers when I printed this too. Was without the diicooler.

Print a cooler anon, and increase the "time between layers" option in S3D.

>>1121597
Print another one to see what the clogged addressed. The bridging is temp or speed related, both of which seem fine from your posted settings

Should I get a 32bit board?

>>1121756
Do you need one?

>>1121794
I don't know. But I'd like some quieter stepper drivers, I'm just not sure if it's worth the money

>>1121840
>I don't know.
So the answer is no?

You can buy DRV8825s cheap

File: Untitled-1.jpg (129KB, 1403x238px) Image search: [Google]

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Anon who tried buying some plastic from MakerGeeks.com here

Ordered from PushPlastic and look.
This is what it should have been like.
MakerGeeks can get fucked.
Still waiting on my god damn $150 refund.
(forgot to [REDACTED])

Is it best practice to swap filaments by atomic pulling them? That's what I do: for ABS I let it cool to 160 or heat it up depending on when I do it then pull the filament out every time I swap. PLA at 90C or so but I haven't used PLA in a while cause it's kind of a shitty plastic for anything non-trivial

>>1121912
Honestly I just swap PLA and ABS normally. I heat to the higher temperature and pull, then load until colour changes. Haven't had any problems yet.

>>1121917
That's utterly fucked up my prints because the ABS that has difficulty pushing through at 210 can clog the PLA mid-print. I'm cold-pulling more as a preventative thing regarding dirt and whatever

Is there a usable MOSFET on aliexpress for the maker select v2 that I can just get off the slow boat for cheap on aliexpress or gearbest or similar and I can just roll the dice on my printer surviving the shipping time?

>>1121912
atomic pulls for swapping filament type are fine, but changing colors, it seems unnecessary.

>>1121918
>ABS that has difficulty pushing through at 210
...Which is why I heat to the ABS temp and push PLA through until no ABS remains, as I mentioned.

>>1118225
single z rod....

>>1121840

You can use Trinamics on a RAMPS no problem. Actually the smoothieboard uses A4982's so you won't see much improvement on the motor noise front. Plus if you get just drivers, you'll be able to use them on a 32bit boear later anyway.

>>1121682
Looks like Z-wobble, even if using lead screws you can still have that.
Try printing some anti-wobble clips and retry.

>>1121955
I count 2 Z rods and one leadscrew anon.

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>>1122012
Thanks.
My current z couplers are heat shrink and zip ties. So ill swap those out. Then ill print a top restraint for the screw. Something like pic related

>>1122032
>>1122012
Doesnt look like Z wobble to me
Also using those retainers will make banding way way worse, they are a terrible idea

>>1122035
So what do you think is the problem?

>>1122039
It could be any number of things
Just doesnt look like banding at all, which is what "Z wobble" would imply.

And if you had bent rods slightly pushing your carriage back and forth, binding it at the top doesnt suddenly make your rod straight.
It makes your carriage get pushed out harder and further, making banding even worse. The tension has to go somewhere

>>1122040
Yeah understood.

My rods seem quite straight. No gaps on the OD of the threads when put against a straightedge + light.
i.e. not factory fucked.

I'll do what the other anon suggested and switch out my heat shrink with aluminium flexible couplers. Hopefully it will reduce.

I've also tightened belts & reduced speed.

Hopefully that will take up any slop & stop the inertia / vibration of the bed from overpowering the torque of the motors.

>>1121682

This does not look like z-wobble at all. If i had to guess, i'd say you're printing too fast and/or over-extruding. Dial back the extrusion multiplier in slic3r and change to 50mm/s, then see if you notice any improvements. If it looks good, calibrate your extruder's steps/mm.

File: tgnew1a.gif (25KB, 300x300px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1122044
(Forgot to attach pic): what overextrusion looks like.

>>1122044
>>1122046
Thanks senpai.

My first instinct was to dial back the speed. But I'll also try the extrusion multiplier.

Should this not be fixed when you first calibrate,using 100mm of filament to feed into the hot end?

>>1122048

Ideally it should be a 1.0, which would imply that real-world extrusion is 100% accurate to the gcode. Normally you set it to 1.0 after the 100mm calibration procedure. Dialing it up or down is a quick hack you can use for testing purposes instead of having to recompile the firmware on input new steps/mm values by hand every time.

Note that real-world extrusion varies by just a tiny bit depending on geometry and the used filament. This means setting the extrusion multiplier on an otherwise calibrated printer to something like 0.97 or 1.02 to get things absolutely perfect. That sort of fine-tuning is done by printing a single-walled print with the current filament, then you measure the walls at different spots with a digital caliper (or even micrometer if you want micron-precision). The deviations in all the walls are then averaged Which will give you a factor, usually something like 98% or so. Full fine-tuning guide here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA

You can do this after you do the rougher 100mm calibration.

>>1122051
Pic related is my benchy. After fitting z restraints, 608zz bearings, aluminium flexible couplers.

Definitely overextrusion. Will use the method in the video. Can't wait to have amazing prints. Thanks senpai.

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>>1122096
dickbutts

Hey. How much should I pay for 3d printer to be able to make dildos and some diy shit? I run through some reviews but these printers are sloppy and I would have to cut supports and wash the surface of the product with some dissolver.

>>1122164
huh, how the printer makes support material is entirely up to how you slice it, not the printer's ability
>wash the surface with dissolver
wat? sure, you can smooth it if you want that effect but these printers are capable of accurate results

>>1122164
>make dildos
Don't. tl;dr layer lines allow bacteria seepage and even if the surface is coated it's still not a medical-grade material and could interact in unknown ways.

If you're really dead-set on it, anything that can print ABS without delamination should be good enough.

>>1122192
> how the printer makes support material is entirely up to how you slice i
I saw an overpriced printer that capable to print with supports.

>>1122207
>I saw an overpriced printer that capable to print with supports.
you don't understand support material do you?

>>1122207
*without
>>1122212
That printer had 5 or 6 movement axis so he could print almost without supports.

Do PEI surfaces wear out? Mine seems to be losing grip when before it was perfect.

Also is there a better material than ABS for durable parts?

>>1122219
That's an experimental printer and it's not "overpriced" because AFAIK it's either not for sale or designed for a very specific audience. It's by no means the "standard" for printing, and you still wouldn't be able to print negative slopes like you can with supports.

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Burnt the hell out of myself two months ago on a maker select bed. Burn mark is bitchin but is it permanent?

>>1122223
Yep. Rubbing alcohol and some fine grit sandpaper will get you going though.

>>1122297
Weird. Usually little whiny bitch marks like that disappear after a few weeks.

Maybe you're run down from the AIDS you definitely have you giant faggot.

>>1122298
Cool thanks. I was thinking that might work. It lasted for a lot of prints with no work though. And sheet of it is pretty cheap too.

>>1122297
Nah that isn't bad enough to be permanent. Burns just take a long time to heal. Be careful though, you never want to have to use burn soap. That shit is a like washing with a barnacle.

Would Plastidip be a good method to seal PLA parts from moisture to keep them from going brittle over time? Or should I just hit them with a coat of clear enamel spray?

>>1122164
>>1122193
>dildos
i guess anon *could* put a comdom over it

>>1122193
Print the thing, smooth the thing, make a mold then make the thing in something safe

>>1122392
Can't I just fuck the mold?

File: asd.png (158KB, 419x491px) Image search: [Google]

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Do you guys think something like this could be printed? the legs look skinny as fuck.

>>1122741
sure, if you really careful removing the shitload of supports. or use PVA for supports.

>>1122741
I'd stick wires in the legs after printing, just in case.

>>1122741
It's gonna generate a fair shitton of support on that anyway just for all that hair. I'd orient it on its back so that the layer grain is through the length of the legs. That's the only way they'll have any strength.

>>1122392
At that point you may as well hand sculpt the thing rather than bother with printing it. >>1122389 has a point, the condom is basically designed exactly for the purpose of fucking in hygienically questionable circumstances.

>>1122384
Put a few layers of Rust-Oleum spray paint on a PLA part and it's just as weatherproof as anything else. But shit, I've got load-bearing untreated PLA parts that have been out in the weather for over a year without the first signs of degredation, I don't know where all the concern comes from.

>>1122741
>>1122767
Nix that, print it on its side, with the hair sticking up as straight as possible. The legs should get at least one continuous layer up their length, and the face won't risk being an ugly top surface.

>>1122741
Aint that Child of Light?

>>1122753

Or you can make the print larger so that the stick-legs get a more reasonable diameter.

>>1122770
I had the last 20% or so of a roll of PLA end up completely brittle. It may have just been a shit brand though.

>>1122883
Very possible, the outdoor part I used to test is Colorfabb PLA Natural color. It's become the only PLA I use. The extra price is offset by it literally never failing a print for me even once. The stuff is smooth like plastic butter. Also, it takes paint extremely well.

Frankly, whatever brand you go with, I always recommend going with "natural color" filament and painting it for color.

>>1122741
Thanks for the answers guys, because the original creator of the model decided to make it paid (it used to be free), and becauset he license allows it here's a link to it in case anyone needs it:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B7cHIG0GnHXNSFFWRVdPMGpscnM?usp=sharing

>>1122924
>used to be free, now is paid for
>model of another IP
>not designed with removable support material

why can't modelers take a note from this guy. his stuff is printable without support material and is under creative commons license

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>>1122945
damnit... forgot the link

http://www.3dprintmakers.com/shop/fantasygraph

>>1122947
>Fantasygraph
Top notch taste, mate. Lewd, but not TOO lewd.

>>1122978
That's pretty cool, I might attempt one of those later.

>>1122978
I'm sure there's better terms and classes for this kind of thing, but I like to think of models as either "functional" or "organic". So like is the model a functional part or a natural more organic design.

This modeler just happens to keep manufacturability in mind by adding removable supports where needed and having recommended print settings

>>1122979
I've printed his weeping angel and "SteamLady Jisabelle" with good results

So how essential is it to have insulation & kapton tape around the heating block?

The reason I ask is that I have a chinkshit i3 clone, and I changed the throat and nozzle. But when I did, the threads werent touching in the heat block, and molten PLA oozed out, clogging the threads, leaking out of both ends INTO the insulation. This burnt, and even dripped down the nozzle leaving little brown lumps of plastic in my prints at points, ruining them.

I heated the block, and got rid of the plastic out of the threading. But I've also had to take the insulation off as that was full of plastic that would melt and cause the issues all over again.

Am I good to just leave the heatblock bare, or will that screw me over later down the line?

Poo

>>1123052
Poo

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>>1116329

Without comenting much in my autistic drawing, I have a mosfet and I don't have any clue about where should I conect the "12v switch signal imput".

Any ideas?

>>1123039

If you are using a v6 it shouldn't be much of a problem, but if you still use the plastic ones, then I would recomend putting kapton.

>>1123068

Nah, it's solid metal so not too worried.

Point of worry was mostly from the cables going into it (thermistor wire is in PTFE tubing, the rest are a mystery)


But plastic ones? Who thought that was a good idea? Pic?

>>1122770
Depends on how many you're making, the context of use and whether you want to make it in something that would be very expensive with FDM like flexible material

>>1123063

Judging by the horrible chinglish description of this thing on Aliexpress, you can switch it either using the RAMPS heatbed output terminals, or a signal pin from the arduino that can be anywhere from 5V to 12V.

What i don't get is the purpose of this thing, is the mosfet on your board that terrible or is the bed too big? Because if it's about using a big bed, hooking it up to the same power supply kinda negates the purpose...

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>>1123152

What are you calling the "throat" - the heatbreak? The kapton on the heater block isn't for insulation as much as it is there to hold the thermistor from falling out and to keep it from shorting. If it's held in securely, then you don't need the kapton tape, objectively speaking.

By "plastic ones" he means the older J-Head style ones with a heatsink made of PEEK. The melting temperature of PEEK is way above that of ABS or PLA, so it provides good insulation without the need for a cooling fan. I'm talking about the original J-Head, not the chinese crap E3D v6 clones they call "J-head".

>>1123203

Pic related is what I mean by throat. Attaches to the top of the heating block, on the extruder motor side. Other side of the heating block is the nozzle

File: 5pcs-lot-Reprap-Nozzle-Throat-Hotend-Makerbot-Prusa-i3-3D-Printer-Kit-All-thread-Nozzle-Throat.jpg (56KB, 562x512px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1123226
>>1123203

Derped the picture

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wtf is this shit
I haven't tried printing yet but why the fuck is their random lines everywhere

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>>1123231
Reference pic
I don't want to waste 6h if it's gunna fail

>>1123231
supports

>>1123227
thats a heatbreak

>>1122981
>functional vs. organic
The traditional division is "hard surface" vs. "organic" - the first is machinery, man-made objects, etc. while organic is... well, yeah. It's not rigidly defined and I'm sure there are things that are functional and organic as well as non-functional and hard surface, but those are the usual 3D modeling divisions.

>>1123039
I only use Teflon to "tape" the thermistor to my hotend and the little red rubber-ish insulation over it. It IS an Ubis hotend, though.

Anyone know what the max speed is for a corexy running marlin on ramps+mega? I'm using drv8825 in 1/32 for xyz. There's a chart on the reprap wiki but it says it's outdated and needs to be redone because the ramps/atmega limits are too high

>>1123249
Is there a way to fix this? I've used supports before but it didn't have lines traced across the model like this

>>1123231

Those could be jumps, but i can't be sure since i haven't used this slicer.

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there really needs to be a "golden build" described somewhere.

i'm thinking;
-Anet A8 kit, not the a6 because the a8 has a massive community with lots of parts designs, the a6 doesn't
-e3dv6 because i mean, come on, its like how arctic silver used to be THE thing
-PEI build sheet, because it makes ABS easy as fuck, or anything really.

>>1123419
I was just watching a Maker's Muse last night where Angus mentions that acrylic expands and contracts with temperature. Makes me think planning to run ABS on a machine primarily designed out of acrylic sheet might not be wise.

>>1123419

Aren't you just describing the original i3 MK2?

>>1123419
A golden build isnt going to be an acrylic framed printer

>>1123426
Not him, but doesn't the actual i3 kit have an aluminum frame?

>>1123419
Acrylic is shit for the frame
E3D is great hotend
I don't understand why people keep using ABS as there are better options like CPE, nylon or PETG.

>>1123460

Yes. i3's with crappy acrylic frames are a chinese cost-cutting innovation.

>>1123557

I've been printing only with PLA and PETG from the start, never really used ABS. Heated some up because i was curious as to what it smells like - holy shit it was the worst thing i've smelled... How people can print with it is beyond me.

>>1123557
Because ABS is the only one that's actually good when you're printing faster than 50mm/s

>>1121504
>>1121503
Overheating. I used to have this problem all the time. I eventually figured out that the added radiant heat from the print bead was causing the bottom centimeter or so of my prints to warp, shrink, and lay down layers wrong. I ended up turning the heated bed from 110 down to 80, and my prints are coming out a lot better.

>>1123557
abs is very cheap, and it's a pain if you dont have a good hotend + build surface, but with those things it actually behaves really well

File: eyJ1cmwiOiJodHRwOi8vaS5pbWd1ci5jb20vTkhmVmZQRS5qcGcifQ.ZcEEbQVHE7poKJurRfboeALlIzQ.jpg (45KB, 732x549px) Image search: [Google]

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Did a subscale version of one of those models posted earlier, it came out pretty good, please ignore the residue of chalk, I was trying different things.

Didn't see a CNC general, thought it might be relevant here. Are there any good cnc mill kits or open source designs that don't require custom made parts?

>>1116329
Newfag here, I'm looking to get a DIY kit to learn how these things work, and upgrade it after I get better. I have nothing I really want to print in particular, I just like to get things going.

I've narrowed it down to Tevo Tarantula or Anet A8. They are both Chinese clones of Prusa i3. Any idea which is better?

Lots of people on here and Reddit (who don't own one) bash the clone hotend and single Z motor, but YouTube guys who build many kits and review many different printers say they are servicable for a beginner kit, and later I'd like to upgrade to a genuine E3D V6 and dual Z motor (and maybe dual Y carriage on the Tevo), so those don't seem much of an issue.

>>1123875

Both look pretty chinkshit but if i had to pick, i'd go with the Tevo Tarantuala all the way. At least it's actually (mostly) made of metal!

>>1123875
Rickety parts and loose connections will drive you to kill yourself.

Get something that looks sturdy.

When you get the kit, if bolts are loose, replace or shim out with washers to make everything skookum as frig.

Higher stiffness = less low frequency vibration.

If anyone is interested, I'm a structural engineer. When dealing with simple beam systems the
Natural frequency can be approximated to sqrt(static deflection/18).

The deflection of a beam is a function of its elastic modulus.

The stiffer you are, the higher the frequency.

Also applies to fucking club sluts.

>>1123875
I've got an A8 behind me I just finished building; the choice between single and double Z actually swayed my choice. No particular complaints so far, but I'm running PLA. I'm planning on getting it printing as smooth as possible, then using it to print something better and harvesting it for parts.

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>>1123894
>Also applies to fucking club sluts.

> took printer apart, do shit, put it back together.
>Print 15 hours of stuff
>Notice the fan to my extruder motor isn't turning.
>It's been unplugged

Alright. So how does an overheated stepper perform?
Does it even get too hot?
Should I just replace the motor in case?

>>1123942
They're good to 60C ambient, probably, most don't get that hot internally during normal operation.

>>1123894
>The stiffer you are, the higher the frequency.
>Also applies to fucking club sluts.

Wait, how does that even makes sense?

>>1124029
Permavirgin detected

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Sup 3dpg.

Trying to figure out if I'm asking too much of my i3.

Pic related. Printing architectural stuff.
Printing 'fins' at 1:50 scale, meaning each fin is 6mm x 1mm in section.

They kink and are connected at every 20mm vertically.

They look pretty shitty. Is 1mm too skinny for a short run like 6mm?

I havent got the print to take photos of, but I've drawn it.... Image to follow.

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>>1124096
Shitty sketch of model and detail view on shitty print

>>1123684
The marks make her look like a fire god.

>>1124098

It's doable, but you might need to use a finer nozzle. 0.2mm should get you the detail you need, but be prepared for some fiddling.

>>1124286
Right.

Thanks. Basically im asking too much from my machine with a 0.4mm nozzle.

Now. With a 0.4mm nozzle on a professional machine.... What would it look like comparatively? The same presumably if the nozzle diameter is the problem.

>>1124315
if you'd do it professionally you wouldn't use a FDM printer at all for an architectural model

>>1124320
Really?

All the big offices here in london have dozens of ultimakers churning out building masses all the time.

Im not bullshitting you. I've worked with Fosters, MAKE, Sheppard Robson and Allies and Morrison.

All of them use FDM to see how models fit into building and townscapes.

>>1124321
Oh yes, FDM printers are great for quick prototypes especially since they require almost no clean-up and are office friendly
but for actual models to show off to your customers you'll wanna go with either binder jetting or SLS if you prefer a rough sandstone like texture
or SLA for smooth surfaces

>>1124323
I disagree.

Architectural models often have to be churned out quickly for clients.
If you have 15 building masses to make in 3 days for a meeting, there is no way you'd use binder jetting or sls.

With binder jetting theres the added mess too and most offices just don't have the time or inclination to clean up.


With SLS, the consumables for the desktop printers are simply too much of an overhead.

Typically, the ratio of FDM to SLS at the offices I work with is 10:1.

I wish for a time back before the Internet, mainly because people appreciated that things take time, and one could enjoy the design instead of being too pressured to give a shit about efficiency and elegance.

I mean. Ffs. Quantity surveyors are getting us to tell them reinforcement quantities before planning stages for high rise structures. I hate this country.

>>1124315

A 0.4 nozzle is the same anywhere, a professional FDM printer just guarantees less fuckups along the way and better repeatability... You can do a 1x6mm wall with a 0.4mm nozzle but you may not like how rounded the corners are. 0.2 just gives you more wiggle-room for details smaller than 1mm.

>>1124326
> Quantity surveyors are getting us to tell them reinforcement quantities before planning stages for high rise structures
Not a CE (am ME), could you rephrase that slightly?

>>1124098
This shouldn't be a problem. 1mm is enough for two perimeters.
Picture would be much better, but what I can see from your sketch: If surface isn't smooth it can be because previous layer hasn't set properly, so you must use more fan or better fan shroud. It could also do that because it is so thin and tall and it is moving. Maybe make a brim at the bottom, or make it wider at the bottom. Also try printing slower. Strands: more retraction and/or lower temperatures.

My extruder is leaking small amounts of some sort of black grease-like substance from pic related, coming from the top

Is this normal? I'm not sure if it's grease or pla material

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>>1124631
Forgot muh pic

Also, I should add that the substance never hardens so I think it's not PLA

I have an all-metal hotend with the appropriately bored nozzle. I forgot a while back I ordered some steel nozzles for my PTFE-lined hotend in 0.2 and 0.8

Is it possible to just use the newer nozzles with the all-metal throat (heatbreak?) by just cutting a piece of PTFE flush with the top of the nozzle? I only need them for specialty applications

>>1121698
ok, im upgrading to dicooler right now. How long do layers usually need?

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Got a makergear m2 in. Rev D, previous generation, lightly used.

The thing that stands out to me the most is the linear rails. It's just so smooth and pleasant to listen to.

Here's some pictures. These prints turned out better than they should have because:

1. I leveled by eye and am probably not good enough to be doing that

2. Forgot to set extrusion witdth to .35mm to match the new nozzle size

3. Thought I didn't need binder clips for the glass bed. Boy was I wrong when I heard a lot of rattle on the second print

So honestly it should have been a misaligned, poorly adhered mess. But instead, I get a print where the smokestack has some print misalignment and that's kinda it.

Printing another boat, this time with binder clips on. Didn't relevel the bed. Got a dial indicator coming in tomorrow.

Anyone have experiences with this type of printer?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zollfrei-3D-Drucker-Auto-Ebene-Metall-Kossel-Delta-Rostock-G2s-Pro-Dual-Extruder-/331951441685?hash=item4d49d90715:g:yLkAAOSwoBtW16bY

Im intending to slap a laser engraver and a vacuum pick and place head to it to do other stuff with it. Im thinking this construction is better suited for these rather than the Cartesian printers.

Is there any other doll "standard" besides from quin?

>>1124632
Is it all-metal or does it have a PTFE tube guide?

has anybody gotten their heated bed cracked before? if so, how did it happen

>>1125112
glass heated bed

>>1125112

I've had the glass on my heated bed crack, yes. Not so much crack, but chip off - sometimes the printed part sticks on way too good and "bites off" chips from the glass as it cools. Happens especially on parts that take up a large surface area. Glass is still usable after it happens, but you either need to avoid printing on the pothole areas or you gotta flip the glass around.

>>1125097
It's all metal, I'm starting to think my extruder motor is leaking grease somehow, id this possible?

>>1125123
alright, thanks for telling me
i'll make it so the nozzle isn't too close to the glass bed

>>1125135

Nozzle distance doesn't matter much, it's more about how hot the bed is, what type of plastic you're using, how fast it cools, how much surface area you're using (brim or no brim) etc. I've had the "chips" happen mostly when using PETG for example.

>>1125147
I see

File: 16114366_1337004106348567_9004121163706909598_n.jpg (46KB, 716x720px) Image search: [Google]

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Sorry for a stupid question guys, But I have an ANET 18, And bought a MOSFET for my heated bed. And now my MOSFET is getting scathingly hot (Enough to soften / melt some PLA) , and my hotend and my heated bed aren't keeping their temps while printing. (dropping 20- 30 degrees) is my MOSFET bad?

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What would cause such extreme curling like this?
When I watched the layers print they came out flat on the board, and I plumbed it all with a depth gauge to be within 0.01 mm.

Using ABS on a lulzbot taz 5

>>1125203
Do you have a heated bed? Is the bed hot enough for ABS?
From my experience with PLA and my hot bed cooling down mid print it curled. Could also be adhesion. Do you have hairspray, or glue on your glass?

>>1125132
Melted pla is always a possibility. Have you tried taking it apart?

>>1125209
I have some sort of tape film on it.
Its heated to 103 C
I have seen comments on 90 -110 C for ABS
And I do mean this sucker is curled, as in it looks like an injection molded peice and I can not find the corners on it, they are just gone in the curve.
I would actually say under extrusion were it not for having watched and seen it print properly.

I want to try abs slurry next, but noticed the bushing on the y axis are uneven and cause a .3 mm difference in slide.
It has a slight issue for why my prints have specific points at where they go nuts, but doe not answer the curling issue.

>>1125240
I would try the ABS slurry, just to try and rule out adhesion. Sadly, I don't have experience with ABS yet, I always figured the Slurry was the way to go when it comes to adhesion of ABS. good luck anon.

>>1125203
My guess is not enough bed adhesion and/or cool environment leading to cooling of part and warping. I've seen 100 as "the" hot bed temp for ABS.

You probably have kapton tape judging by the orange hue. I THINK PVA glue should adhere but am not 100% sure. I use ~1/8 Elmer's glue to 7/8 water (just filled an old bottle to the top with water) and coat before every ABS print - no problems yet, maybe try that.

Do you have a fan pointed at the print? Turn it off (at least for the first X layers) if so.

Hey /3dpg/,

My stepper motor gets really hot, hot enough that I can't touch it for longer than 2-3 seconds. I limited the current just so the motor won't whine in static mode, full step. I'm using a DRV8825 to supply a single Nema 17 42BYGHW208, using an Arduino Nano to control it.

If I go to microstepping I loose steps or it won't move. Not sure if this is because of too much torque or not enough current. I don't really care that much though, full step is precise enough for now. I only care about not damaging the motor with the heat.

I did surround the motor with a wooden casing, but the bottom is open and the wood only touches the top face of the motor. Maybe this causes the heat to build up?

Is there someone who can help me?

>>1125315
Remove casing.

Does it still get hot?

>>1125192

Sure sounds like it... Maybe you got a dud one? Have you checked the datasheet for it?

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>>1125331
I have not, it was recommended by others that use the A8. So I assumed that it was compatible. I've messaged the seller, and am waiting fro a reply. So far cooling then heat-sink down with a bulky USB fan keeps the temps stable.

>>1125327
ye, destroyed my beautifull casing ;_;

>>1125315
Steppers usually get hot when you're feeding them too much current. Measure the voltage on the adjustment screw, it should be half of the amount of amps that the motor is rated for

What do I need to do to my print to paint it with an aerobrush? I have a friend who's willing to help me but he has never painted 3d printed parts.

>>1125445

You need to use plastic primer, not much other than that. Krylon Fusion was one of those, if i remember correctly it contains MEK in the mixture, which dissolves the plastic and helps it stick.

>>1125355
yup did that, limited it pretty hard. the motor is rated for a nominal current of 0,4A. I limited it to 0,19Vref, if I'm limiting it more it starts to whine in Idle. Normally the current limit should be higher because it's at 70% so at something like 0,28 Vref. So idk what's wrong

>>1125240
put some glue on your bed and put a cardboard box on your printer. the warping is caused by plastic cooling differently and thus shrinking

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Trying out a vase in some translucent green filament. Using a ps eye as the camera, gonna look up out to undo the piss filter.

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>>1125693
coming along nicely.

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>>1125725
And complete

Simplify 3D settings for the Creator Pro? In particular the bed volume/offset and toolhead offsets?

I have the bed size and settings I use for offset in Slic3r, but it tries to go too far to the left and the proceeds to shit in the corner.

>>1124632

I had similar issues, in my casd it was overburnt PLA

Tightened everything up and added a PTFE guide tube to the nozzle sorted out my issues

Anyone know anything about software backlash compensation? It seems like a dead topic when I google it, nothing recent.

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Got some Makergeeks filament from their grabbag special. Translucent and non-translucent PLA and PETG.
I fucked up the initial order and accidentally ordered only one translucent. Emailed them to change and they were quick to respond with and email saying no problem. Shipped pretty fast and got here within 3 days.
It was kinda tough printing at first, didn't stick. Would jam the extruder motor. Then read the temps and their PLA runs at 230 which I didn't forsee, was trying at 195. So switched it to 230 and haven't had issue.

I read their PETG is 265 which is higher than the 245 I'd think to run it. But it's domestic stuff so maybe it's made with different plastic. It's sure a lot stronger than normal pla from chinese manufacturers.

I've also but about 20 hours of printing in this M2 I got two days ago. Previous generation lightly used by a small business.

I like it a lot. This thing has a feature like auto-leveling. It just sticks. I'm using the glass plus aquanet (took the kapton off). Just did a 6 hour print that used 95% of the build plate with nothing but leveling by eye because I felt like I was doing the paper trick wrong.

Also Octoprint is really good. Was using Astroprint at first, but this thing is much better.

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>>1116329
attended a prusa i3 construction workshop, we made the first 3d printers in this country.

We have finished construction and are now intending to calibrate the machine, problem is, we have no filament.

Is there a way to calibrate without filament.

>>1126467
AFAIK there's no way to calibrate without filament because you need to measure the amount extruded vs. amount fed.

Technically, you COULD do some fancy maths and figure out the distance traveled by the edge of the hobbed gear, then translate that plus the area of the feed (1.75mm) to the area of the nozzle (~0.4mm), but it's much more of a hassle than it would be to get some filament.

Which country do you live in that you can make a functioning(?) 3D printer, with some printed parts, and have the first of its kind in the country, yet not have access to filament, if you're inclined to share?