Snow Board

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Then, I thought that it would be nice to have some maneuverability while going downhill, so I bent and riveted two pieces of metal to the board to act as rudders of a kind.

This morning I went on the hill and my fears came true.
The rudders are just too big. They cut deep into the compacted snow and stop you dead in place.
Now, I have two options.
One is to shorten the rudders. Im not really sure about this one, I feel like even when less than half the size they are now there will be still too much resistance.
Also, their position at the end of the board may make it hard to control.

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So I came up with other solution.
I have few long and relatively stiff steel(?) wires, 3mm diameter.
I was thinking about sliding them into screw holes and bending the ends so they dont slide out.
I fear however they will bend outwards(green arrows) when I'll try maneuvering on board.

Any advice you could give me?
Im heading for some more tea lights now.
I've seen some receipts for shitty homemade ski wax that uses normal candle wax and a bit a veggi oil.
Not sure how much of a difference a bit of oil makes when it comes to sliding on the snow, but its worth a try.

>>1112866
I can give you one tip on manuvering on snow. Remove the metal from the bottom. You steer with your hips, rudders are only going to get hitched on something. Get something on top you can get a good grip with your feet on. Maybe lock your front foot to the board and get enough griptape for your back foot. I was born in snow and baptised on ice.

>>1112926
What about the wire idea, mr snowman?
Twisting my hips wont help nothing when there are no traction.
Keep in mind this is no proper snowboard. Snowboards use sharp side edges that cut into snow to steer, right?

Also, tell me about waxing.

>>1112931
The wire idea would theoretically work as a sharp steel edge if you do it right. The best thing to do would of course be to sharpen the edges a bit and reinforce with a thin metal layer. Just sharpening it will work until you bang into something and you'll start getting knicks in it. This will happen with a reinforced steel edge as well, but it can obviously take more of a beating.

I've never waxed my board much, maybe I'm just lucky with the snow but I feel like I don't need it. You will find a bunch of info about waxing snowboards online. It will apply to your skateboard-snowboard. Good luck with this, I hope you will post more pictures when you've decided on what to do.

Check out existing snowskates.
Waxing won't work well. It needs a structured base for that to make sense. That is, the thing you wax has tiny grooves that run along the ski/board which makes it glide. Just waxing a flat plywood board won't help.

Commercial snowskates have a plastic base with large grooves inside, or a small ski mounted on axles. Like a skateboard but with ski instead of wheels on the axle.

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>>1112949
Tomorrow I have whole day booked so no field-testing, that has to wait to day after that.

I was thinking about that edge.
What if I would do something like pic related?
Gray is deck.
I would rivet few of those metal corner thingies(red) to it and then rivet long flat metal pieces(green) to acts kinda as a rails?
They should guide board straight on the snow and dig into it during turns.


Ill try putting wires in tomorrow and post how it looks.

>>1112955
I did.
I was thinking about taking few pcv pipes, heatbending them on ends and fixing them all one next to another to some spare plywood board.
That would make it slide nice and straight.
But thats a project for another time.

>>1112926
This is halfway true...
You do steer with your hips, but you arent going anywhere without edges. The edge is the most important part of the snowboard. If you can find a way, add a sharpened metal edge all the way around it

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>>1113015
To add on to this... i would use steel plumbers strapping and rivet or bolt it onto the bottom like so. The candle wax wont be a bad base layer, but find something better to put over it

What are your plans on turning the rudders?

>>1113019
How about this>>1112976 ?
basically the same deal you talk about, but from the sides and something more rigid than plumber strapping.

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It has been done.
The wires are installed.
At first, I was quite concerned. Holes from bolts have 5mm, and wires only 3.
They were moving around a lot.
But after some fiddling around in the vice, they now fit snugly and tightly against the deck.
I can actually bend them to the inside or outside of the board for about 1 or 2 mm, but when I stop applying force, they spring back to their default positions instantly.

I suspect that this bending might be a problem when trying to steer, but Im not sure how much of a problem.
I guess we will see during field testing, the day after tomorrow.
>>1113027
The idea was for rudders to stay in place.
I thought I could steer by moving the nose in the direction I wanted to go with front foot, rudders were here so I would go straight and not slide out of control.

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And a close-up.

>>1113040
That could work, but you'd want to grind the edge flush with the board otherwise it would catch way too much and bend up the brackets and edge. If you mounted them on the bottom it would prevent that from evern being a problem

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>>1113088
How about taking something like this....

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>>1113088
...and fixing it to the board this way, on the bottom and both sides?

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Maybe this can give some inspo

https://youtu.be/1paWOzuVI_4

>>1113111
Yes that would work if you can find a piece with a sharp corner, usually they have rounded corners

>>1113166
Ill take a look in the store selling building materials.

>>1113087

Why not carve a shallow groove, about 30-50% the depth of the diameter of the wire, for the wire to sit snugly in? That would prevent it from moving or flexing during maneuvering and would also prevent debris and things getting stuck between the wire and the board.

Of coarse, it would reduce the depth that the wire cuts into the snow, but I don't know how much it would matter.

>>1113601
Well, they are already in place and I dont want to unfix them just to carve groves to put them back into, too much of a possibility for fuckups.

Besides, they are not moving THAT much, I think its fine for now.

I dont think its gonna collect much debris, its snugly against deck and not much else besides snow where I plan to slide.

Field tests in the morning, in about 10h.

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>>1112864
Do something like this.

OP here, test of wired board are done
The results were...poor.

Few problems arised.
First of all, temperature is above 0 today, and that means wet&sticky snow.
Great for snowball fights and making a snowman, but not so good when you want to slide on candlewaxed skateboard deck.
It DID stick to snow and I had troubles starting the slide, board jumping few cm forward, stopping and jumping forward again.

Second problem was that Im a huge fucking idiot and forgot something that would fix board to my feet.
Deck is patchy with its grip cover on top and additional snow doesnt make it any easier to stay on it during the slide. And while I do have a surplus of very coarse sandpaper(this shit is basically a small jagged gravel) that I could glue and cover with something that would protect it from moisture, I dont trust myself with being able to stand on it during the slide.

But there3 is another way.
I have old rollerblades.
I could try taking the boot part, fixing it to deck and modifying it to accept my normal shoes inside.
I also could try beeing lazy and just rivet a pair of loops for me to slide my feet into.

So, board was jumping around and I couldnt stand on it while sliding for more than one or two meters.
Oh well.
I just sat down on it and slide that way.
Obviously board wasnt wide enough to handle me, so I ended up with wet ass.
No way to steer this shit too.
Meh, could be worse.
Then I checked the wires.
They were loose as hell after this one short ride.
No good.

Im starting to feel like>>1113110 >>1113111 are the way to go about it.

>>1113963
Did you try using it as is originally?

I just used to use a blank deck, granted the paint is fairly slick on a fresh board, grippy on top too.

That was going down a local hill though, and I skate most of the year round in rain (UK here). So it was just a matter of weight on the back foot and manoeuvrability in the hips..and trying to make sure the board doesn't rotate ninety degrees into a powerslide. Pretty much the same as using a 97a wheel on a rain slicked pavement/sidewalk.

>>1113963
Hooray for a cool thread!

I would steer clear of your boot idea as long as the board is of a dubious nature. Rather straps to hold your boot down with a notch to lock your heel in, like over-foot flip flops with half a heel.

If you fall, and you will fall, you're less likely to break your leg, and it's less of a hassle to get off and on than having to take off boots in snow. Forget putting shoes inside, that requires massive volume.

Rivet loops is way to go, maybe use luggage straps you can tighten and untighten easily.

As for steering, making some kind of metal edge seems to be the best way. Only problem is regular snow boards are probably crafted with them in mind from the beginning, while your skate deck is not. Unless you have a router and a decent vise I'd go for the angle iron thing. Just try to keep the underside as free from obstruction as possible.

Good luck! Keep us posted, and I'm hoping for powder in your hill!

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>>1114359
A looong time ago, I wanted to be a cool kid.
From what I remember if didnt work well enough, I kept using sled.

>>1114379
Noted.
>rivet loops
Hey, I have a bunch of those from my busted winter boots from last year!
I knew they will come in handy!

Now, about that edge.
I can easily enough do pic related, grey being deck and red being angle iron.
The question is would that much edge be enough?
I mean, edge being just on the very side, leaving everything before and after the nose/tail curves blunt?
I want to avoid needing to hammer irons into curved shape and fucking it up.

Also, its Saturday and past noon here, so shopping trip is going to have to wait until Monday.
I hope there is going to be more snow in February and I will have deck ready for it at that time.
Exams are to begin shortly and I may have to suspend this project until winter break.

>>1114483
Manufactured snow boards appear to be sandwiched layers with a steel edge in the sides of a middle layer, and have a fundamentally different form (like an elongated "8") so I can't speak to whether this would work. Maybe you could cut a slot into the sides which is however thick your iron is, and get away with less material. Am curious as to how you solve it, though.

The nose/tail isn't really used for steering, instead, you "carve" the snow with the width of the board. Look at some olympic snowboarders to see what I mean.

>>1114520
I just fear that if sharp edge are going to be purely on the sides of the board, blunt sides of the nose are going to bump snow away and prevent board from getting a traction.

Inserting metal into the sides of the board sounds like a next step to take if angle irons fail.

>>1112865
First a skateboard is too small.
Second it doesn't have sharp corners, so it's not really maneuverable.
Third you don't have something to fix your feet on the board (griptape isn't enough, especially when wet)
Fourth those pieces of metal are retarded as fuck. Have you ever seen a regular snowboard? They are flat on the bottom. The metal just slows you down.
Candle wax is a good start, but if you want to do a good job, you should get liquid wax that you can polish into the wood.
Just get a fucking snowboard m8

>>1115195
>/diy/
>stop making stuff!

Nonetheless, thank you for input, most of problems mentioned were fixed or will be fixed in near future.

>liquid wax
As in liquid car wax?

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>>1113639
Ok but what about like this.

>>1115212
We need to go deeper.

>>1115205
>stop making stuff!
I would word it differently. Stop making poorly thought out stuff.
There's a reason, snowboards are what they are and skateboards are what they are.
Skateboards have an optimal form for performing tricks that require it to be small and light.
Snowboards need to be broad, so they can fit your whole foot, since you stir by leaning onto their sides.
Using a skateboard to immitate a snowboard is just not a good idea.
If you were to build a snowboard from scratch in the form of an actual snowboard, more power to you.

>As in liquid car wax?
I'm not quite sure if it's the same. I bought it for like 5 bucks in a shop that specifically sells itz for skis and snowboards

>>1115253
Lol 8 year old me though I could use a skateboard deck as a skim board. I learned a lot about thinking things through that day.