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Any tips for cleaning up this anvil?

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Any tips for cleaning up this anvil?
>>
coca cola
wire brush
angle grinder
>>
>>1112786
Put a wire wheel on an angle grinder
Youll have the whole job done in 10 minutes
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>>1112788
I started with a wire wheel, didn't get far.
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>>1112788
This was my starting point
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>>1112796
Looks like its working perfectly fine

If your wire wheel is too course to get into the nooks and crannies, get a finer one.
>>
If you want to get the surface back to flat and smooth, use a belt sander.
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>>1112808
Also, dear god that poor anvil. Where the hell was it that it got so pitted and fuckered?
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>>1112810
It was buried in the ground. I got it for free
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>>1112812
Ok, nice find then. But seriously, belt grinder or go home if you want to get it to usable condition again.
>>
>>1112786
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLaBFkeHG0A
>>
Is there not a fab shop near that could sand/shot blast it for you?
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>>1112832
this.

also, i'm no metalsmith, but that looks pretty fucked to me. Aren't they supposed to be smooth?
>>
>>1112788
>wire wheel
>10 minutes
>on this kind of rust
No way in hell.

Best he can hope for is at least half an hour of intense grinding with a heavy grinding wheel.
>>
>>1112786
varsol
>>
Give it a vinegar bath for a few hours, and then hit it with a flapper disk.

May need to soak it multiple times.

(Old axe head enthusiast)
>>
>>1112786
That thing is done for, you'll have to get rid of a lot of material before you can call that craterhole an anvil again.
>>
Personal experience with a similar old piece of steel.

Buy a big 5 gallon bucket, or use your own. Put anvil in bucket, and let sit for a few hours. After that, brush all the loose rust off with a wire brush.

After that, smooth the top with a grinder and look up how to electroplate metal.
>>
>>1112849
I fucked up. Add vinegar around anvil to knock rust off while in bucket.
>>
>>1112786
i use a 100mm carbide facemill for my milling machine, i usually mill the bottom flat first and then flip and cut the top face. do you know anyone with a mill or a surface grinder ?
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>>1112836
I grind rust off of bad scrap all the time with wire wheels.
Rust is like a cancer and eats away. Its not like when it starts going deep its going to be real tough to remove.

He needs the finer wire wheel to get into the cavities. A heavy grinding wheel is going to be re-profiling the fucker.

This is just the initial cleanup
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>>1112833
Yes they are supposed to be smooth, but this thing is probably over 100 years old.
Again I found it buried in the ground so it is very pitted.
>>
>>1112848
About a 150 pound anvil, just have to shed some material, yea no big deal
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>>1112859
Unfortunately no
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>>1112892
It's a pure waste of time to clean surfaces he'll remove with a grinding wheel later anyways.

>>1112786
Grinding wheel first for a quick rough cleanup. Wire wheel next for what's left. Then flatten the bottom and top, what >>1112859 said would be perfect, also smooth the horn with a sanding or flap disc.
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>>1112947
The only surfaces you need to regrind are the tops where you would use the anvil. No sense in regrinding the whole thing, losing weight on surfaces that don't need messed with
>>
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>any tips
well...ahh
let me ah
tell ya ha
you'll need bigger than a "Q", mate!
>>
>>1112943
if you have access to a large angle grinder 7" or 9" you can grind the face aggressively, draw file and then use anything flat as a crude surface plate to mark the high spots which you can then file down until you reach a lice level of flatness
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>>1112970
I do have a large one, will do
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>>1112786
Get a BFG
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CLaBFkeHG0A
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>>1112974
Wow thanks for tip, because everyone just has one of those
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>>1112977
:^)
But seriously just get a bucket that fits and use chemicals. The only situation where i woudnt use it is if there was eletronics or mechanical systems inside but for a anvil you don't need a lot of brain to clean it.
>>
It's coming along
>>
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>>1113001
Forgot pic
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>>1113004
Are you also attempting to smooth out that surface?

Take it to a semi truck shop, and have them machine the top of it.

You can also do an electrolysis bath, but I think you're past that point.

Apply WD40 to the exposed metal surface so it wont rust.
>>
>>1113008
Currently smoothing
>>
What about rust remover? Perhaps baking powder or barkeepers friend might help also.
>>
>>1112786
Build a good fire, put the anvil on burn it afew times in a few days and you'll find it easy to get the rust off with a wire brush
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>>1113016
sounds legit
>>
>>1113008
>Take it to a semi truck shop, and have them machine the top of it.

Not many truck shops have mills or Blanchard grinders, but many machine shops can mill or grind your surfaces. If you know a good welder he can pad weld anyt deep damage first.

As for the rust I'd just visit my local monument shop. They have industrial sandblasters that will easily take an anvil to bare metal. I have motorcycle frames (frame, swingarm, misc shit) done for 50-75 bucks so an anvil should be less than half that.
>>
>>1113004
doing great so far anon, good job.

don't grind more than you absolutely need to off the hardened rectangular top plate. it's only a half inch thick and you want to keep as much as you can. an ugly anvil's more use than a soft one!

but you can and should grind the horn back to round smoothness.
>>
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>>1113062
well I stopped awhile ago, will get back to it tomorrow.
>>
>>1113041
generally to do a worthwhile job you have to get it quite flat, use a high nickel rod, grind or machine flat and then a hard facing rod, if you just ask a welder to fill in the pits he'll likely just mig the low spots
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>>1113016
wouldn't still anneal it and ruin the rebound?
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>>1113070
Pretty gnarly anvil, if you're really pressed to get that rust off, diluted Muraic acid bath will get rid of it in a few hours. You can get it from most hardware stores in the cement section
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>>1112786
If you use a flapper pad on a grinder itll leave you with a smooth finish
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>>1113400
Yes, you would ruin the hardened steel part.
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>>1112832
/thread
>>
Who cares about the rust just oil the thing once you're done grinding and it'll stop rusting. You're doing fine just grind the top flat and you'll have a perfect anvil. The best way tho would be to mill it if you can find somebody to do it for you
>>
>>1112786
Sandblast it. That shit might be too thick though.
>>
Take to Machine Shop tell them to take min. cleanup. This anvil looks real old maybe wrought iron if not hard then weld a piece of tool steel same size to face harden face, stone it till flat, then grind till smooth enough for you.This doable but some work.
>>
scouring pad and sulfuric acid
>>
I'd like to order one sword, please
made from the finest mythril
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>>1112786
U shit. I been 4 months looking. Got RR iron finally after buying a 40 foot ibeam.

Wd-40 and steel wool
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>>1115969
Wow fuck I didn't realise how bad it was. Wd40 final step. If u wanna sell it 2-3 bucks a pound is going rate. U anywhere near kansas and wanna sell that bitch?
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I'd concentrate on the top and leave the rest alone because it looks fucking awesome. Otherwise it could be any anvil and not tell a story.
>>
>>1115969
>>1115971
Friend has been looking for an anvil for awhile now.
People have been buying up everything they can find- closest he's found one is in the next state, about 3 hours away.

I was thinking of using a big old vice for an anvil.
Should be hardened, and can shape the stationary jaw into a horn.
>>
>>1113041
Weld up an anvil?

He'll have to fucking heat treat it afterwards and it still won't be anywhere near as tough

These anvils are typically cast iron and any weld buildup is performed with 95% nickel rods, making the resulting weld soft as fuck and nearly unusable as an anvil
>>
>>1113516

This

Just where where you need to hit. Oil the whole thing and start beating
>>
>>1117299
In my blacksmithing groups on fb i learned a lot. Got a forge built. Going to pick up a 4 foot railroad tie and look and some vices after work.

Now is definitely the time to sell out if you are a blacksmith with extra shit.


I mean jesus. I paid 100 bicks for an i beam that i aint even using.


Forged in fire dide a fucking solid for the blacksmithing inustry.

Its a dying art thousands of years old
>>
>>1117328
>cast iron
>cast

You mean cast ASO


BTFO
>>
>>1112820
Do not overheat the face! Its likely hardened and you dont want to fuck that up. Heat treating an anvil isnt an easy thing to do.
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>>1117328
Don't talk if you are ignorant, fool. Anvils are never cast iron.
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>>1117440
Most of the anvils made in america from the 1860s up until the 1930s were cast iron with a steel face.
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>>1117446
No, you are ignorant. They are wrought iron, which is pretty much the opposite of cast. Stop.
>>
>>1117446
In addendum, cast steel anvils are fine, but more recent.
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>>1117465
>I'm a stupid fucking faggot who loves talking out of my ass hurrdurr
http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/anvils/fisher-norris.php
>>
That thing will be unusuable as an actual anvil, unless you have it machined flat and smooth which will cost tons of money, or if you like the pitted, fucked up surface enough that you want it transferred to anything and everything you hammer on it from now until the end of time.
>>
>>1117328
>These anvils are typically cast iron and any weld buildup is performed with 95% nickel rods, making the resulting weld soft as fuck and nearly unusable as an anvil

Whoever builds up a steel (cast iron is ASO shit but there's still a way) anvil with soft rods instead of hardfacing rods is a moron. You can pad weld with hardfacing rod then tidy it up with an angle grinder then finish with carbide inserts in a mill, or find you local Blanchard grinder and pay them which won't normally be absurd for such a small surface.

People think of machine shops, but they should remember most don't have Blanchard grinders. Not a problem because typically a shop that does serves a wide area. There's constant demand for Blanchard ground plate for machine tables etc.

If you go slow and use a machinist square a patient man could get good enough with flap discs in an angle grinder but I'm not that patient.

I'm not speculating. My welding instructor refaced an anvil that way then we got our machine shop instructor to mill it flat. After seeing how easy that went I'd not hesitate to do one for myself. Still looking for a suitably fucked anvil since I can't be arsed to buy a nice one.

If I really had to save a cast iron ASO for some absurd reason I'd MIG it with the very nice Crown Alloys MIG wire for cast iron. That stuff is impressive but not cheap. I found out about it on Weldingweb and when my machinistbros needed to weld some ancient machine parts they bought a roll. We proceeded to weld scrap for test then beat the fuck out of it with a sledge. The welds performed more than satisfactorily.
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>>1117472
Wow I forgot one subpar brand, so sue me. Its an inferior material for this purpose, and you should be ashamed of yourself for being a cockmongler.
>>
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>>1117584
>Wow I forgot one subpar brand
It was one of the most popular brands of anvils in the world for over 50 years and was the only anvil on the market with a complete warrantee. It is still considered a quality anvil even today. You literally have no idea what you're talking about, you're just letting everyone know how ignorant you are.
>>
>>1117628
BTFO
T
F
O

How will that faggot ever come back from this beat-down???
>>
>>1117628
If it has a tool steel plate then that's what one would hardface and mill or grind, so still no problem to repair.

There are also fillers for directly hardfacing cast iron but I've no experience with those.
>>
>>1117671
Fisher anvils have a cast iron body with a steel plate welded to it. It revolutionized anvil making because it was much cheaper than a wrought iron and steel one, was quiet, and was much more resistant to deformation. Until cast steel became economical it was king.
>>
>>1112786
grind, preheat, surface weld, machine flat/ to round
>>
>>1112812
some smith a long time ago stored it to come back for it. Probably died in the civil war then
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>>1117328
Hard surface rod and no heat treat needed.
>>
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Every time I come on /diy/ I wonder if you fucks will say something even dumber than the last time about how to work metal.

I've never been disappointed. Never change /diy/, you know nothing shits.
>>
>>1117628
I have used one, I hated it. My peter wright is so much nocer to work on. Cast iron may habe made it cheaper, do you really believe that makes it better? Used a cast steel German anvil too, that was fine but didn't ring, which I actually rather enjoy. The rebound on cast iron is nonexistent, that's what I look for in an anvil first. Sorry you have such shit taste. Get a pw or hay budden, or the like. Much nicer! Bet you think a Chinese scooter is just as effective as a sport bike...
>>
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>>1117744
Fisher was and still is an excellent anvil and was almost exclusively used by the American Navy and was even imported into britian despite it's massive anvil output.
>The rebound on cast iron is nonexistent, that's what I look for in an anvil first.
If you knew what you were talking about you'd know Fishers have rebound. It's obvious you have nothing more than a cursory knowledge on this subject and are just bullshitting.
>Get a pw or hay budden, or the like. Much nicer!
I have a modern cast steel one.
>Bet you think a Chinese scooter is just as effective as a sport bike...
Unlike you I'd actually be able to tell the difference between the two.
>>
>>1117550
High nickel rod followed by a hard facing rod to prevent the hard facing from de-laminating or cracking regardless of how dissimilar the parent material is. I'm just the machinist but that's how i get every anvil I've ever refurbished welded and they all come out beautifully.
>>
Go to castironcollector.com and check his restoration articles. For that, lye soak and elbow grease.
>>
>>1113016
DONT DO THAT YOU WILL MESS UP THE HEAT TREAT IT WILL KILL YOUR ANVIL
>>
>>1112850
I was about to ask what kind of magical fucking bucket you had that you could just put shit in and it would come out clean.
>>
>>1112786
Use napalm.
>>
>>1112786
Just use this handy $800k laser rust remover:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-3kVFJKmIw
>>
>>1119420
$53k

Could make for a decent service business. Roll around town blasting rust all day?
>>
>>1117400
>Oil the whole thing and start beating

Oh myyy
>>
>>1112842
>Give it a vinegar bath for a few hours, and then hit it with a flapper disk.

Ladies man detected
>>
>>1119430
If I had 53k and didn't live in the desert. Using that looks so satisfying
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>>1112795
add vinegar while you grind
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>>1119420
that is fucking awesome
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>>1112786
bro, why would you do that?
Its beautiful as is
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>>1121119
Because they probably plan on using it? They couldn't use it as is, because of pitting.... Not everyone uses an anvil as decoration
>>
I work as a powder coater, we clean up rusty ass metal from our lazy clients daily. This amount of rust is not uncommon. For something like this I would probably use muriatic acid. You can pick it up pretty cheap at most pool supply stores. Just be careful when you use it, dont get anything on you or anything you like. That should knock the rust down enough for a wire grinder to work effectively.
>>
>>1118870
>what kind of magical fucking bucket you had that you could just put shit in and it would come out clean.
wife's bucket : no matter what I put inside that bucket I find it totally clean the next morning.
The only con with an anvil is you're likely to find it in the kitchen : never understood why bucket managed to warp my clean mess there...
>>
I'm surprised no one has suggested a needle scaler yet. Works great at removing rust from uneven surfaces.
http://m.northerntool.com/products/shop~tools~product_200658759_200658759?hotline=false

If you want to actually use it as an anvil and need the top hardened and smooth, that's a whole different matter.
>>
>>1112786
Give it to me.
>>
Flap disc + Angle grinder
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>>1112786
Laser rust removal.
Thread posts: 100
Thread images: 11


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