Plumbing redo

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Here is a pic of the range boiler (middle cylinder).
>note that it's probably piped wrong, from my understanding
Original gas conversion hot water boiler on left (only inlet pipe visible) conventional water heater on right.

Yes I am keeping th boiler for now, I don't have the time to put a new one/forced air in.

Use pex onstead of copper. No point wasting money on copper, when pex is cheaper, easier to install, and has just as much longevity.

You meant a water arrestor, which stops water hammers, which is the banging sound caused by high pressure.

Just put a pressure reducing valve on the main water line. You can do it at the meter outside or wherever the line comes up under the house. That removes water hammers on the whole house.

Does the range boiler work? I'd rather just put a new gas or electric heater if it's gonna need a lot of maintenance repairs.

>>1112272
I'm not doing pex, I understand the economics of it but I'm just not going to use it for multiple other reasons, so just help me out with the copper.
I don't need a pressure reducer (the elevation I'm at the city says I'm good) nor do I want to because I'm the kind of guy who wants the possibility of having the max but then deciding which application I want it.
And yea, water arrester, I learned it as a water hammer from the old man.
And I dont know if the Range boiler works, the house was vacant 2 winters with water in it and I haven't fired the hot water boiler yet...

>>1112284

Are you actually having water hammers? Do you hear a banging when flushing the commode or running the washing machine. If you're going to put arresors on, then the washing machine, dishwasher, and commode lines are the most common places for hammers

Also, most fixtures can only output so much pressure, and a pressure reducing valve can be adjusted to that max cut the whole house. Having 100+ psi is a wasye since it gets bottle necked at the fixtures anyway.

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>>1112291
I bought it with the water off and appliances out so I have no clue if they rattled before.
It's all new pipe sweated properly, I'm just saying, since it's all not in yet, would it be good to throw an arrestor in there since everything is open and ready.
I'm talking like 30 years down the road, am I going to be like "good thing I put those arrestors in."?
I get what you're saying about the pressure reducer, but I'm being kind if a purist fag here and wanting as much simplicity as possible/less moving parts=less to go wrong over time.
>pic is new 1" line from the street I put in coming out and up from the ground

>>1112307

Why don't you finish running the line and get the water back on and see if it's a problem.

It's no problem at all to put new arrestors on after the line is run. The newer arrestors just screw on the dupply stops for the fixtures. They don't require any cutting or soldering.

You're kind of in the dark about your plumbing situation until you finish this part