yo, can anyone help me with making a mould? im trying to make

>>1112110
>inb4 molding silicone dildos

>>1112114
yep, furry themed too

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Two+part+plaster+mold

>>1112134
idk its only good for one use, im looking to make my own model and reusable mould

>>1112405
It's good for multiple uses. Carve a dildo out clay, make your two part plaster mold out of something durable like hydrocal or ultracal, and you can easily make 10 silicone copies before seeing any degredation if you're careful.

You are not going to be able to make anything more durable for under a couple hundred dollars. Maybe use a similar approach and make a two part polyurethane resin mold, but there's a lot more that can go wrong there without a little experience and the cost is much higher.

You'll be looking at easily $50 per dildo produced with the plaster method, assuming you can source the plaster locally for about $20/50lbs.
I've never done a resin mold, so can't say how much that'll jack the price up.

>>1112430
im interested in longer lasting moulds too as i plan to eventually go past the 10 production mark. one thing im a bit worried about is having seams on them from the 2 part but the only other moulds ive seen are made of latex and not very suited to this i feel. i honestly dont mind spending $200 or so on a mould if it means consistency and quality. ill patients obs 3d print the initial model though since im confident in 3d modeling but not clay modeling. probs gonna be awkward to get it peinted somewhere though

>>1112438
Silicone can't be painted with regular methods, you'll need to paint it with pigmented silicone, or better yet cast it in the desired color (that is why most dildos are a solid color, and dragon dildos are a marble color). To paint detail with it would require laying a thick-isj layer of more silicone, losing detail and potentially not bonding properly with the cast piece.

Your first dildo cast in the plaster will become the master, and you can make many identical plaster molds of it--all of which will produce more than a single dildo before wearing out.
I don't know much about 3D printing, but if there's undercuts in the mold it may make removing the printed dildo very difficult. If you can 3D print in wax, you can probably burn it out.

Seems are usually not a problem if your mold is well made, and they can be worked out with fine grade sandpaper or a razorblade once it's pulled from the mold.
I honestly can't think of any mold making material that will last better than clay or resin for under $200. If you're willing to spend that much, and are very careful, you could pull off the resin mold in that budget.

Latex molds will inhibit silicone's curing ability, leaving an uncured sticky mess.

>>1112463
To paint things a specific color and retain detail, if you went with plaster 2 part mold, you could mix up a specific color at a time and paint it into the surface of the mold before putting it all together and filling with a base colored silicone.

>>1112463
do i make a resin mould the same way i would a plaster (wood box, cast half oil it then cast the second)? i am looking at doing production not just for myself. makes sense with the silicon that it needs to be colored, do you order it in the color or mix in some additional coloring?

>>1112468
There's pigments you can mix into the silicone to color it. You'll want a decent quality rtv silicone from a supplier like smooth-on, not just silicone caulking you buy from a hardware store. Smooth-on will also sell the pigments needed for their silicone.
Keep in mind all this stuff has a fairly short shelf life, so I wouldn't buy it unless you know you'll be able to use it within six months or so.

I've never made a resin mold, but it wouldn't be too difficult to apply very similar methods to it as you would plaster. Resin is weird, and may not cure if it comes into contact with petrolium jelly (or whatever other release you use to keep the two halves separate). The resin will also bond to anything 3D printed in plastic, so again, you'll want a wax or clay model.
Trial and error is your best bet if you go with resin. It's entirely possible it'll do just fine with a petrolium jelly layer, but I would probably go with a layer of something like packing tape. The resin should not penetrate the packing tape layer, and it has always been a good release for me in the past.

>>1112699
o thanks,

one last question about clay types. do i jsust get this cheap one or do i need the more expensive ones?

>>1113021
If going with plaster, I've never seen anything that would inhibit it.
If going resin, I'd test it out in a small scale with the clay. You will want something that doesn't air harden.

I still highly recommend plaster, as it's probably the safest mold material for making casts that will be used internally, is inexpensive, and has the least chance to react with the silicone in unfavorable ways.

>>1113067
sorry i meant for the initial model, not for the mold. im fine with just using the cheap clay and just whatever plaster right?

>>1113233
Cheapest non-air drying clay will do just fine. Water based clays may dry out and crack before you can get them molded, or the heat generated by the plaster could flash dry the surface of the model and fuck up any smooth finish.