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Need help with RC car refurbishing

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In my tech class, a group of friends and I found an old 1/5 Scale RC car that's in pretty rough condition and have been given an opportunity to refurbish it. We're hoping to replace old/broken parts and to give it a new coat of paint and shell. Decided to ask you fags for help.

The car is a RACO Jackrabbit. Simple car that runs with a 23 cc engine (Most likely). The left front suspension is fucked completely on a connecting piece, muffler is completely disconnected and we have no idea where the part is.

Any idea where we could find the parts we need for this/ advice so we don't fuck up anything more than our old teacher did? Can only work on it off and on for one class period during the week. Additional period once daily. We can always take parts home to work on them.

Pic related, will post an actual pic of the car when I can. Muffler isn't a tube unit like the pic, it's different.
>>
You are most likely going to have to fabricate your own parts to fix it.
RC cars arent like real ones where they just keep making replacement parts when the car is out of production
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>>1111107
OP here, yeah. I imagined as much. We're 3D printing a couple parts small enough to print and that won't take much physical strain. Other than that it's going to be homemade parts and jerry-rigging the hell out of it.
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>>1111130
Take pics and keep us updated

I dont know too much about RC stuff though
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>>1111104
First things first, take the engine and the differentials apart, give them a good cleaning and lube. For the diff, use a decently thick grease or oil. For the engine, a 3in1 machine oil should work just fine. Don't use much as nitromethane blends have lube oil in them and any oil you put IN the engine as rust protectant will need to burn off before tuning. Same goes for the carb. Check the seals.

For the front suspension, you'll need to give a pic to give a better idea. If its the shock "tower" you can replace this with metal, carbon fiber, or even a rigid plastic milled out. In fact, you can do the same with most parts that don't get a lot of stress on them. Don't feel you need to replicate the parts, only duplicate the function.

>muffler
Try and use the pipe if at all possible as these are tuned to give the 2-stroke engine enough back pressure to function. If the manifold is still in place, you just need some high-temp silicone tubing and some zip ties. If you need to replace the manifold, get some 1/4" steel to make the mounting plate (piece that mates to the exhaust port on the engine) then bend some tubing, this can even be aluminum. Then braise/weld the pieces together. Some engines use bolts to hold the manifold on, others use a spring to wrap around the cooling head.

You might search tower hobbies, or ehobbies for parts, especially universal parts. Don't be afraid to make your own parts; they'll be ugly but if they work, they're not stupid.
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>>1111111
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>>1111104
make a build log OP
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>>1111166
Somebody knows their shit.
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>>1111164
I'll try to snap some pics on Monday
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>>1111350
Sure, I can try. Right now we have the frame and all of the components separated from the baseplate. Working on scrubbing off a shoddy spraypaint job so that we can repaint it and make it look nicer. We have another guy who knows a bit more about engines and shit working on cleaning all that. It's caked with mud and all sorts of junk.
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>>1111477
Same guy as before, for metal parts you can use some non-chlorinated brake cleaner; available for pretty cheap at most auto-parts stores and even home-depot type places. Try not to get it on the silicone seals around the engine. Clean the carb well because the old oil has likely gummed up the tiny needle ports.

Another thing about the engine; its either going to have silicone seals, or paper seals around every bolted on part to the crank case. These are super delicate and hard to find. In a pinch, you can make your own seals with gasket material, but its super thin and won't ever be right because that gasket material is meant for large engines and large surface areas.

Look on google for an assembly manual for this model; if you can't find it, video tape one person disassembling and narrating what they're doing so you can take the thing completely apart, clean up every part, assess any repairs, then put it back together.
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>>1111520
I'll try and work around my schedule to set up a good checklist for this. You've given me a lot to tell the group on Monday.
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>>1111523
Left out a detail that might help. RACO stopped producing these in the early 90s, meaning that this car is at least around 20 years old.
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>>1111530
Right, but thats the beauty of 1/5 scale and fabrication: you can still buy engines and fab anything you need to make this car essentially indestructible.

Make a checklist of everything wrong with the car, and I'll help with possible solutions where I can.
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>>1111536
Sounds good, thanks a lot.
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>>1111536

I heard that some 1/5 and 1/6 cars can be adapted to use use small chainsaw engines.
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>>1112634
Thats probably true; if OP is correct and it is a 23cc engine, thats about the same size as a weed whacker engine. A lot of the heavier duty chain saws are a bit bigger at about 30-50cc's.
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>>1111536
Also, having a written down, well planed checklist, TO-DO's and possible workarounds might be as much as a help for yourself as for getting better grades/recognition from your teacher.
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Damn, this has been a busy week. Sorry fellas. So the rest of my group has taken to just cramming some parts together and hoping it works, and I don't really think they'd be open to the idea of turning back and making it a bit more proper. But hey, fuck it
>Don't feel you need to replicate the parts, only duplicate the function.

If it explodes or some shit I'll let you know. Don't have any pics that would be useful as of now I think. They already had it disassembled by the time I could. I'll try and peek at the thread when I can. Reminder my school has 4Chan blocked so I use a VPN. No posting for me while at school.
Thread posts: 19
Thread images: 1


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