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Natural Wood Stains

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Thread replies: 16
Thread images: 1

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Hey /diy/
I've never really posted on here before so sorry if I make any faux pas while here
I'm in the process of carving several sets of wooden utensils and table settings (salad forks candlesticks ect) and I was wondering about what I should use to stain these.
I know that commercial products are available like salad bowl stains but I am interested in alternatives like a mixture of olive oil and lemon juice to act as a natural sealant.
Can anyone confirm or deny this working?
also these are all being carved from non treated dried pine
I would like these sets to somewhat last with care and not end up a rotten mess
>>
>>1106322
>olive oil, lemon juice.

Sounds like it would get rank pretty quick
>>
>>1106322
I use walnut oil for my wood. I like a light stain with a natural look. It's food safe but you have to re-apply if you plan on washing them often.
>>
>>1106347
That's what I thought but as a lightly used utensil that is cleaned with each use would it work?
>>
Walnut oil, mineral oil, beeswax and coconut oil all work fairly well for wooden kitchen stuff
>>
>>1106368
any idea of the longevity of a product sealed with one of those?
>>
>>1106374
I wouldn't use the coconut oil simply because it takes a fucking long time to dry
Walnut and mineral oil, wax by itself or wax + mineral oil will last a very long time
>>
>>1106322

Why not just use boiled linseed oil (natural/organic/whatever, not the stuff with metals in it to accelerate drying).
>>
Boiled linseed oil. It will form a much more protective coat vs things like "salad bowl finish" and wax.

Wood surfaces treated with boiled linseed oil are approved by the NSF
>themoaryouknow.jpg
>>
>>1106322
Use a double boiler to melt, and mix somewhere between 2 parts wax to 1 part oil, and 1/1 parts. YMMV, depending on the density of the wax you use, etc. Let cool, and rub into wood.

Beeswax, candlewax, etc, all work. Beeswax and walnut oil is traditional, and entirely foodsafe as both components are edible. If nut allergy is a problem, use food grade mineral oil. Do not use olive or vegetable oils, they go rancid.

Re-apply the mixture as needed for as long as you still use the object. Natural finishes are not epoxy, they require maintenance to last.
>>
>>1106384

Raw LO is indeed food safe, or raw LO that's been actually boiled to polymerize it (very unsafe, do not DIY, it spontaneously combusts) is also food safe. Downside is these can take weeks to dry.

Store-bought BLO that comes in a can is toxic due to the metallic dryers in it, like magnesium. Do not use this on kitchen utensils.
>>
>>1106384
>Boiled linseed oil
The paint thinners and etc in it makes it far from foodsafe.
>>
>>1106322
The best food safe options are walnot oil or mineral oil ( food safe is sold as butcher block oik)


Do not use walnut oil if anyone has a food allergy.
>>
>>1106683

Natural turpentine isn't so bad.

There are pure high pressure boiled linseed oils available without additives or thinners (you can add turpentine yourself for ease of use and penetration).
>>
but imm breathingg fineeee
>>
>>1106322
>stain
staining and sealing are two different things

>>1106368
>>1106380
>>1106716
mineral oil is cheap and readily available

just needs to be applied every so often as it dries out
Thread posts: 16
Thread images: 1


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