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help me build a launch controller please

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Thread replies: 28
Thread images: 9

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hey guys, hoping to get a little basic electronics wiring help.

I am making a model rocket "launch controller" (fucking stupid name imho, its the box with a battery that ignites the engine from a distance).

I have the wires and clips to connect to the igniter, a project box, a 9v battery clip, etc.

if i just wired one button it wouldnt be very hard, just wire the momentary switch inline on one side.

but i need to put some lighted switches before the momentary switch which must be flipped to "activate" the controller, and a small lcd voltage gauge.

they look cool, but they are functional in preventing accidental launch and letting you know if battery is dead. i am not using an interlock key, so i am putting two switches before the momentary switch for safety.

im sorry im so dumb, i am terrible with electronics.... how do i wire these 3 switches and the gauge so that
1) they light up when activated
2) the next one in line will not function until the previous one has been activated?
3) the lcd gauge comes on once the first switch is activated?

in other words,
1) power on -> switch illuminates -> lcd gauge turns on
2) arm -> second switch illuminates
3) launch (momentary) -> current passes through igniter and launches rocket.

thanks everyone, in advance.

pic related, kinda like that but a little more complex.
>>
>>1103289
If I'm understanding it right youd just wire the switches in series with each other so that one cannot work without the one before it being activated. For the voltage just wire that in parallel to the whole circuit
>>
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>yfw OP is actually ISIS and is planning a snackbar
>>
>>1103289
>http://www.instructables.com/id/Fireworks-Controller/

a pyro fire box (a controller for firing pyrotechnics/fireworks) does exactly what you looking for - they usually (legallly) have a key switch, thats the only expensive part - skip that? you good.

Above link is maybe bit over complex as 12 channel, just follow that and build it 1 channel - also a random first hit, maybe better, try googling 'pyro fire box schematic. or some shit for others. As other anon said tho, its all wired in a simple chain, turn on one switch to activate the next, cant go (far) rong..
>>
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>>1103294
>>1103304
Bullshit. Simple chainwiring will not work, as the first switches wouldnt light up before they are all "on".

Do something like this, picture relatarded
>>
>>1103328
what the fuck
>>
>>1103328
I doubt op even knows what a transistor is, let alone knows what it looks like on a diagram
>>
>>1103289
show pics of your switches
>>
File: idunno.png (26KB, 846x703px) Image search: [Google]
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this, maybe?
>>
>>1103382
oh shit wait, I fucked up
>>
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Get a two-pole toggle switch (SW1) and a momentary lighted push button (PB). They sell SOOOOOPER cheap switchboard voltage displays on Amazon, the rest of the stuff I would get from Mouser.
>>
>>1103470
Scratch that, I misread what you wanted.
Here, SW1 ("main power switch") is a 3-pole toggle switch, L.P.B. ("Arm") is an illuminated latching 2-pole pushbutton, and M.P.B. ("Launch") is a 1 [or two or three, doesn't matter, you're only using one] pole momentary pushbutton.

You can also use two momentary push buttons but without adding the complexity and expense of a relay or contactor you'd need to hold both down at the same time. I think AutomationDirect has lighted push buttons too now that I think of it.
>>
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>>1103480
Aaaaand the pic cause I'm a nub.
>>
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>>1103481
I'm dumb. In industrial protection and controls you typically use a separate input for every function element. For a hobby project you can do it like this and get single pole switches and buttons. Sorry for the confusion.
>>
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>>1103289
here a simple diagram
>>
Nice try isis. I'm not helping you make a detonator
>>
>>1103590
Lol what is the ground reference for? This would not work at all.
>>
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>>1103590
>Ground
Nigga you cant be serious
>>
>>1103743

ground just means, ''connect all ground points together, and the negative of the bottom battery.''

the ground symbol on the battery is missing but it's obvious to people in the know.

an ACTUAL real problem with the circuit, though minor, is that it uses 18V whereas most lighted switches are rated at 12V and might burn out at 18.
>>
>>1103743
>>1103739
>not knowing the assumed ground on a two-battery DC circuit
Jesus see >>1103754
>>
>>1103780
>>1103754
The "implied" ground in industry (excluding consumer electronics) is a center tap ground, typically integral to the battery charger. Alas, OP admitted himself he knows nothing of electronics, so why show it like that?

Also, what switches are you using? The terminal layout and light voltage may change how you wire it to a certain extent.
>>
>>1103289
My uncle used a lightswitch for his.
>>
>>1103382
>>1103481
>>1103488
>>1103590
Op here
Guys I just wanted to come back and say thank you all so much. I understand how to do this now, my confusion was centered on my lack of understanding regarding three pole switches. I will check voltage requirements of lighted switches but may only use 9v as I don't think it takes much to ignite the fuse. Thankfully I can use a multimeter.

Also I promise video of working box and rocket launch as soon as they're ready. Thanks 4chan you came through again. Merry Christmas.
>>
>>1103328
>posting a shit circuit
kill yourself, you incompetent faggot
>>
>>1104383
>but may only use 9v

My experience with model rocketry has been that a 9v battery will not reliably light a rocket motor. I had much better success when using 4 Ds, and even better still with the $20 battery used to start a lawnmower.

The reason for this is you lose a lot of power on the long skinny wires to the rocket, and lose more on the poor connections made by the char covered alligator clips. Using a bigger battery gives you more amps to play with.

I'm not poo-pooing your idea. Instead, I hope this will give you a lead if you experience poor launch performance.
HTH.
>>
>>1104523
So what you're saying is just nigger-rig a maglite.
>>
Best way to power such things and have something useful would be to build or buy a quality jump start pack.

These are what to copy because the power is unswitched and the design doesn't have a delicate folding power plug:

https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC660-1700-12-Volt-Starter/dp/B000JFJLP6

I used one of the above at a used car lot so I bought one a couple of years ago. They are outstanding.
>>
>>1103303
Falafel Snackbar?
Thread posts: 28
Thread images: 9


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