Got wood?

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Carved waves are linear sine waves offset by 0, 60 and 120 degrees creating the lateral curves by the interpolation of depths.

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Carved her name on the underside of the bass

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Still got another couple of coats of oil to apply to bring up the shine but you get the idea.
Corners are mitered and have a plywood tongue in the joint, base is just in a groove.
Should also point out I'm a bespoke cabinetmaker, have you any questions
please fire away

>>1103000
I'm an expert at identifying wood, and according to my rigorous investigation, that box has been carved out of cheddar.

>>1103001

So CNC'd then?

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>>1103009
Ripsaw, Planer, thicknesser, wide belt sander, panelsaw, spindle-moulder, 1/4" router, rhino, rhinocam, CNC (25mm ball end cutter, 34° v carver), shoulder plane, engineers square, calipers, 1" gouge, 1/2" gouge, cabinet scrapers, abrasive papers, metal countersink, scalpel, double sided tape, 1.5 and 2.5mm drill bits, drill, 6mm lip and spur bit, 300mm straightedge, 12mm chisel, sharpening stones, flathead screwdriver, steel wool and rags.
Were the tools I used.

>>1103006
Red Leicester, surely?!

I hope she appreciates it.

>>1103005
>mitered corners
lmao all that effort and you didn't even use proper joinery

>>1103016

Looks more like Cheddar to me m8

that box is going to make her box nice and wet for you. good job, OP

>>1103082

>>1103082
OP is getting laid for sure. Good job bro

Amazing work. Did you fit the sides and top on the box before making the gouges? I'm trying to figure out how you got them to line up so well.

>>1103244
Its for his sister

>>1103317
thats the joke

Looks like a cheap chinese trinket.

>>1103321
That can be said about literally anything.

>>1103000
Looks great, but i am not a fan of the external hinge. A hidden barrel hinge would have been my choice.


A fantastic box.


I just bought a house, and will be building all the furniture for it. I have will be doing Shockey , Greene & Green inspired designs


I have a local mill that had a great price on all the quartersaw and rift red/white oak i can want. ( got to love those amish )

First piece is a queen bed, wardrobe, dresser. Then a table, with storage bench and chairs.
I will be caining the chairs.
Last project will be a couch, from scratch.

>>1103378
>( got to love those amish )
Shit man, I grew up like 15 miles from an Amish community. Never even though about going and buying wood from them. I did know woman who used to go buy quilts from them and then sell them in a quilt/gift shop. I think she lived off the money from it. That was pre-ebay though.

>>1103075
Wensleydale, Gromit!

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>>1103000
>>1103002
>>1103005
Gonna need 12-grit sandpaper to clean that mess up, OP.

>>1103244
>>1103317
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhfcWTZeP1k

>>1103540
Mate once sold sextoys to the Amish based on word-of-mouth. Lasted for about 18 months. Then a man recognised the wrapping on a package for his wife.

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Some resin and wood jewelry I made for Christmas. Linseed Oil and beeswax is the shit.

>>1103006
>>1103016
>>1103075
>>1103918
You're all wrong. It's orange; that's obviously Double Gloucester.

>>1103000
Nice trips and box!

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Made a wood base for a light fixture and a "bar" table.

Light base is 15 mitered boxes made out of walnut plywood.

Table top is solid walnut, biscuit jointed with a nosing. Two support columns are mdf skinned with pre finished wood floor. Cutting tube steel with a portable band saw still isn't fun.

>>1103953
OP is just thinking outside the box. (And inside the family)

Thought you hicks were only into cousins

>>1104472
OP also carved a wooden dildo for sister (and inside the family)

>>1104471

Nice. What kind of finish are you applying to that light fixture and the table top?

>>1104502
The light fixture is already stained and lacquered. The table top will probably be the same as the light and fireplace mantle.

Some type Sherwin Williams stain and spray lacquer

>>1104471
Looks great!

I'm looking for small projects but can't think of anything to build. I'm looking for a medium to hard difficulty.
Aside from a spice rack and jewerelly box, what can I build? Something small enough to fit on my large workbench; I can't be making big furniture items :(

>>1104959
>Aside from a spice rack and jewerelly box, what can I build?
Picture frames.

>>1104962
That's actually a really good.

>>1104959
Chairs. Foot stools, cabinets, boxes ( jewelry, watch, cigar, ect)

>>1103317
Yeah I know

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First DIY project.
Made a couple saw horses while making this because I needed them for the camper. Neither of them sits even. Lol

>>1104072
That's amazing! How on earth would I even begin to make something like this!?

Going to make a desk soon since I can't find one that checks all the boxes for me. What are some fairly simple joints that can handle loads well? I'm not going to be putting anvels on it or anything but I'd like the comfort of knowing it won't just collapse at any time.

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Made this a thread but felt it fit more here

I've never really posted on here before so sorry if I make any faux pas while here
I'm in the process of carving several sets of wooden utensils and table settings (salad forks candlesticks ect) and I was wondering about what I should use to stain these.
I know that commercial products are available like salad bowl stains but I am interested in alternatives like a mixture of olive oil and lemon juice to act as a natural sealant.
Can anyone confirm or deny this working?
also these are all being carved from non treated dried pine
I would like these sets to somewhat last with care and not end up a rotten mess

Made my first bandsaw box. Got a used one from a rummage sale. Though now that I made it Id say I should f let it dry longer and got a new blade right away.

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>>1106409

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>>1106409

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I made a tank.

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>>1106409

>>1104072
What type of resin is this

>>1106419
Looking good!

>>1106342
Having done some research, my personal pick would be linseed oil. It's a traditional finish, and it's one of the few food safe oils that polymerizes, which means that if you heat it and bake it on it makes a solid film (like polyurethane finishes do without the risk of eating polyurethane).
The issue is that "boiled linseed oil" isn't prepared the traditional way anymore, where you would boil the linseed oil so that it dries faster when applied, instead they add toxic chemical dryers.
However, you can still find the regular, non boiled oil sold as linseed or flaxseed oil as a food product, it just takes longer to dry (as in a month or two).

So my plan when I make one is to apply it, and bake the cookware in the over at 200 degrees or so for a few hours, then set aside on a shelf for a month.

All the other natural food safe finishes I've heard of need to be reapplied every six months.

For the record, pine was not the best choice, since as a softwood it has more open grain and will absorb stuff.

wood generally only rots when it is at least 20% moisture content, don't let it sit in water ever, no matter what finish, and you'll be fine.

Guys I had to go to the ER and have my appendix cut out. I can't lift anything for weeks! Fuck

>>1103002
I WILL TRY TO FIND MY PLACE
IN THE JEWELRY OF JANEEE SOOO TELLL MEEE HOWWW ITT SHOULD BEEE

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Hey guys,
Pic related, first actual decent sized piece of furniture, other than my work bench. Coffee table, Curly maple, 54x28 ellipse, made from 8/4 stock, biscuited together, 2 biscuits every 8", with 5 slabs total.
Going to drill holes at 10* for dowels for legs, and connect them with smaller dowels. End product should have a woven rush shelf beneath it.

Question for you all though, as this is my first time dealing with all this, should I be worried about cupping? It's thick stock, and everything tells me I need some sort of reinforcement beneath to prevent this. One thought was to inlay some aluminum angle in the bottom to keep a nice clean look, but I could probably do something with wood.

Thanks all.

>>1106419
Very cool

>>1107635
Cupping is always a worry.


To prevent it, cut and plane close to final size. Then let the wood acclimate, then plane to final size. When constructing the top alternate the growth ring direction on each board so they will try to cup in alternate directions.

Can I ask a question here?

I am new to woodworking, but have basic knowledge of door/furniture-making, as I helped my grandad when I was a kid.

I really want to get rid of my shitty Ikea desk and make my own, proper wood one. I would like to clamp stuff to it, like a monitor arm/raiser and microphone bracket. What's the best kind of wood to use for the actual surface?
Budget should be around £200

Thanks fellas

hey guys, didin't wanna start a thread, but i need help remembering something...

Back in HS woodshop, i amde a jewelry box, based teacher allowed me to hand sand that fucker after cutting it to shape.

Anyway now to the question

by the time i got the the finishing part, i asked him if there was a way to not use gloss or varnish or w/e on my jewelry box to give it a nice shiny finish ( i wont say gloss/ semi-gloss casue i'm nto sure what it ended up being, it was shiny and i was happy) bbasically gradually went from finer to finer grit. Then it came to a point where i asked him when it''ll get shiny I(i forgot what grit i was up to) and he looked at it and gave me a cloth and he said just rub the box as hard as you can. and i did, and to my surprise it became shiny!

Now the problem is between finishing up the sanding to rubbing the box with the cloth, I;m not sure if used some kind of oil or wax or w/e since everytime i google, hand polishing wood, all the instructions say use some kind of oil. Am i remembering things right or did i actually sue some kind of liquid to help give the jewelry box a shine?

I'll get a picture of the box tomorrow as it is upstairs in my mom's room and shes already asleep if that'll help to see if i'm remembering things right

>>1108894

You probably used tung oil or something related

>>1108517
depends on the wood you can get, where I am I would probably use blackwood or more exotic like Jarrah and bluegum
Just use solid timber none of that particleboard shit.

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I've already posted my boxes on /tg/ but I have a couple of questions on finishes

I put spray lacquer on these boxes around 5 days ago. They turned out pretty nicely, and the finish was close to perfect. But as it turns out, spray lacquer takes a long time to cure and I already smudged the finish in a couple of spots yesterday just with my fingers when I installed the hinges and the latches. I want to fix the finish on the boxes now. What are my options?

I'm thinking I need to do one of these things:

>wait a couple of weeks, sand the boxes with increasingly high grits of wet sandpaper to get rid of the smudges, then apply wax on top to get the high gloss again

or

>wet sand the boxes with sandpaper, then spray a bit of lacquer thinner and apparently that should fix it? I'm not sure about that

or

>wet sand the boxes and spray more coats of lacquer (I would really not like to do this since it took a lot of tries to get the finish perfect everywhere the last time)

thoughts? I'm leaning towards the wax right now, but that seems like it would be a one-way street (hard to redo the finish after I apply it). is wax more resilient than fresh lacquer? I'd like to start using the boxes soon

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2in beech kitchen counter tops

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2in beech counter in place. Don't mind the painters tape, just finished the tile.

>>1103317
>implying

>>1109021
From experience, I would put another outlet on your countertops. One ain't enough.

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This fucker. It's a wallbed and its been a nightmare from day 1.

Haven't even started machining yet because I wish I want it to be connected to a sofa, which I've no idea how to build/attach.

Where the fuck do you guys get wood from?
I need a 48x3x7 piece of medium density wood or laminate for an idea but cant find anywhere to source low quantities of stock from.

>>1111822
>48x3x7 MDF
is that all inches or what? lol good luck with that one

>>1111823
inches, but i dont care if i have to get something larger and cut it to that size.

>>1111826
youre not going to find 3 inch thick MDF

>>1111822
glue two 1.5" sheets together

>>1103317
>implicating

>>1111823

I don't think he meant MDF. I think he literally meant "wood of middling density".

In which case...just about any lumber yard. The larger, more "big box" yards might only have stuff up to around 2", so, if that's all that's available to you, just glue two or more thinner pieces together.

>>1103000
>>1103001
>>1103002
>>1103005
I like it, it's different. Spiffy stuff OP!

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Double sliding barn doors. Curly maple with birds eye maple frame.

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Curly maple fly rod hangers with turquoise inlay.

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And another curly maple piece. Custom table for a bay window breakfast nook.

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I'm making a "rustic" small bench for my mom. I'm a beginner.

Still haven't decided what to use as the seat. I plan on doing all the joints with cylinder shaped biscuits, not sure how much I should trust biscuits though. Couldn't find a kreg jig so I guess no other aesthetic options.

>>1103317
Even better.

>>1112247
I'm more interested in the anti grav device keeping them in the hanger.

>>1112265
>anti grav device
We call that a "floor". Stops gravity dead in its track.

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>>1112265

>>1112280
Zero grav- helps to keep nibs out of the finishing room. Happened to come with the property.

>>1112259
What are you joining with biscuits or dowels there? Use screws

>>1112285
I couldn't find a kreg jig. Should I just do regular end-to-end screwing?

Is it much better? I figured dowels were easier than having to cover the screw with putty or risking cracking the wood.

>>1112287
Gift for mom? Buy framing lumber, use too long of screws, stain it in 3 different test samples, make it wobbly, sign the bottom.
It'll be in the best room in the house and she'll make everyone sit in it.
Seriously, learn how to make a mortise and tenon and a half lap joint if you want to make it slightly less easy. Biscuits and dowels aren't for living room carpentry.

>>1112292
>Buy framing lumber, use too long of screws, stain it in 3 different test samples, make it wobbly, sign the bottom.
That was my first project. Sold it for 20 bucks. Still hate screws. I might do a half lap joint though.

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>>1112292
I might need to make the mortise and tenon as well. It seems beyond my skills but I really want my work to have some quality to it. Thanks for the suggestions.

>>1112298
Mortise and tenon the spreader. That's as rustic as you need.
Hating screws in antithetical to kreg, so you'll have to make up your mind.

>>1112302
What tools do you actually have? Planning biscuits means full wood shop, but it's a bit unclear. What wood? Pilot holes prevent splitting. Don't over think a small bench for mom. Unless your using wood that's going to match your design, you'll end up with something that is a contrast in design/execution.

>>1112306
Pine wood, just some scraps I found. 2cmx5cm. Some cheap stain will make it look rustic. I'll try to find some nice piece of wood for the seating, but not too sure about it yet.

I have been making some stuff with drill+dowels+glue and it has been reliable. My mom plans weddings and uses stuff I make to decorate her weddings. Sometimes customers buy my work. I obviously don't sign it because everything I make is garbage and I'm ashamed that people pay money for it, but it's all been really simple so far.

>>1112306
Also, I have a jig saw, drill, chisel, hammer, screwdriver.

>>1112311
There's no good way to dowel your joints in that design. Abandon that plan. You could do a double spreader and get faces flush, but then the bench stability is entirely dependent on the dowels sitting through the grain. Bad idea. Better off doing a mission style with flat faces on the legs and doweling the seat to the legs.

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>>1112311

>>1112321
I like the idea of doweling the seat to the legs. It's supposed to be a really small bench though, used only for decoration at the wedding party. 80cm wide x 50 cm tall. It'll probably get sold though. I'm kinda cheap when it comes to materials, would be nice if I sold something for good money though.

>>1112332
Frame the entire thing in cheap lumber. The spreader sits between 2 legs and attached with screws. Use screws - pine ain't gonna split unless your pushing it right at the edge. Choose the pieces based on grain and just make it. It's an easy project - the fancier you try to get, the more chance for error.

>>1112332
And that bench married the table top above. Good wood + good finish = $$$$

>>1112339
>>1112323
It's a really cool bench. Definitely worth good money. Cool workshop bro.

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dining table from free wood..
i made it expendable to 2,40 (beerpong length)
im pretty happy with it, but its a bit too high...

I want to make a board for Go, and am trying to think of good, clean, consistent lines across it. I know the nips literally put ink/paint/something on a katana (folded 7000 times) and rock it back and forth with some guides clamped onto it.

The question I really have is should I bother emulating that with some thin, curved metal leaf or similar? or should I just get out a ruler and some clamps and just draw them out? I feel like the second isn't great for using paint or something and limits me to markers of various types, since a paintbrush would be inconsistent in line width and whatnot. I've also considered cutting the lines and basically letting the shape draw in the ink for me, but I feel like I'd fuck up the inking on that and a smooth surface is preferable anyways.

I don't know if this really falls into the woodworking category, but it's working on wood and I don't feel that it warrants an entire thread.

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>>1112323

>that beautiful wood finish
>with those painted dimensional lumber legs

I just...why...?

>>1112433
>its a bit too high...
Just chop some length off the legs?

>>1112249
What kind of product do you use for a durable finish?

>>1112803
>Customer has money. Customer has desire.
>Carpenter has tools, means to fulfill desire.
>Customer shows Carpenter pic of bench and table from interweb.
>Carpenter does mock up, sends Customer.
>Customer sends money.
>Carpenter delivers product.

Generally how I work. I rarely disagree or augment a request, unless it's obscene, like dark staining Claro Walnut. The lady had seen some work with the chatoyance of curly maple and wanted a set and sent me some "farmhouse" pics. Specified white base with square lines. So I splurged on cheap framing lumber and painted it up.

>>1112902
It's oil, then French polish finish (shellac) top-coated with very-thin Behlens rock hard (high gloss) for protection.

>>1104072
yo i'd probably buy this sort of thing for my sister if the pendants were a bit smaller. Ever consider selling your stuff?

>>1103918
Tee hee very nice

How can I go about routing a square recess into a piece of wood without a hand router? Maybe just a chisel and hammer.

>>1114125
Or clamp a straight edge and circular saw. Or a table saw

>>1114125
Recessed on the edge or inside? If edge, any saw will do.
Internal, use a knife to draw lines, sharpen your chisel, tap chisel with bevel in square all the way around design, use chisel to cut out waste.

>>1114146
My equipment is pretty limited since woodwork isn't a hobby of mine, so I don't have a circular saw.

>>1114175
It's an internal recess, I was a bit unsure on how to start the routing but I'll try out the knife on some scrap wood.

>>1114200
Some places do rent tools like Menards.

Just a thought.

>>1109021


Contractor here.

Everything looks great except for your color selections, way too much going on here. I would repaint the cabinets either a shade of white or shade of grey.

>>1112433

I'd put some beams in between the legs. Even if you don't need them, it would look better.

Noobie to woodworking here. Got a few questions
>do I have to do anything special to the wood if I intend to use it in food; like a bowl or chopping board?
>is there a way to make the wood suitable to ship overseas? Or is it a total no go?

>>1112246
how did you find quality on the steel hardware? was looking at the same set on ebay, probably cheaper than i could make I've been sent some pretty nasty chink tier shit before and i didn't really want to take the risk

>>1114475
For finishing food products be sure to raise the wood grain with water before fine sanding to make sure it stays smooth.
Apply a food safe finish like mineral oil.

>>1114478
Rustica Hardware out of Utah. Made in America. I think it was about 900 for the metal as it's a double door, and it's rock solid. Wheels were well oiled and simple caster for them and the cross bar was dead on level for both (thank god as I was terrified hanging them that they'd have a gap somewhere when closed and I'd spend hours with a smooth plane correcting the edges then re-finishing onsite). Got 3 referrals from that customer - a pretty badass piece. Customer opened and closed them probably 100 times watching the grain move before I left.

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>>1114175
First attempt, prettt crap but that's probably because I tried to break out the wood instead of shaving it down.

>>1114265
That's an option, but I'll try it out with what I have first.

>>1114200
Use the knife and chisels. Scribe with the knife along a straight edge or combo square to give a groove to set your chisel in. Start at the corners working your way to the middle of each side and don't try to take too much per whack. Start on the visible side of the piece for clean lines and make sure you have it on a backer board to prevent tear out on the back side. Probably 30 min if it's not massive.

>>1114712
Sharpen your chisels. Seriously. Your edges look like shit and you should not be peeling out the bottom like that. If you don't have to be fancy - use the sand paper method.
If it's a through recess and you aren't worried about depth (which by looks you shouldn't be because that's a mess) don't chop out the middle. Do the edges and a few chisel lengths inside. You'll punch through the bottom.

>>1114712
Did you try to free hand a square with a knife? Or do you have parkinsons?

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>>1114728
Was my first try at chiseling in general, but it came out better this time.

>>1114724
>>1114716
Took your advice and got my wet stone, took my time and removed little by little. When I get the depth I want, I just finish it up with sand paper to even it out?
Also, do you start with the bevel inside or outside the outline? I tried it both ways and the chisel would push outisde of the line.

>>1114887
You might not need sandpaper - depends on what you're doing. If it's a glue-in in the bottom, it doesn't matter much. For cleaning up bad edges, mix some saw dust with wood glue to fill.
On the chisels, you should start with shallow hits, even just hand pressure to wedge your chisel in. The flat side of the chisel should face out of the square and the bevel side facing the waste. Set the chisel in the groove, tap it or pressure it in just a bit and lever the chisel into the waste. For very soft wood, which yours looks a bit like pine/fir, you may want to actually do an extra chisel line near the edge. After you've scribed your edge lines, position your chisel a quarter of an inch inside the line, give the chisel a few good hits and lever out the waste. When one side is done with the inside line, place your chisel on the scribe line vertically, whack it a few times and lever in. The first cut inside should provide some relief to the desired edge of the soft wood and always lever into the waste. If you're still indenting the edge, you've either not set your chisel deep enough (hit harder/more) or your chisel isn't perpindicular to the face when your striking.

>>1114887
I didn't learn much woodwork but I think from memory, in your pic you should put the right/left first where it's parellel with the lines of the wood with a little nick to get it lined up as in to start the peeling...
then do the bottom/top where it's as the way the wood is it will peel off easier. then repeat that layer of the grain till you get it and you'll get a cleaner finish

if you do the bottom/top part too deep to the right/left, it will give that / shape towards it. you have to get the right/left parts straight and deep first before you can go any deeper with the bottom/top with the way the woods facing in that pic for referrence.

the easier way is to just do the bottom top chiseling out the majority, then finish off the right/left parts square with a rasp.

>>1115112
>finish square with a rasp

Wut?

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Birthday present for a friend. She saw something like this at a craft fair and has been asking me to make them for months. I regret using plywood.

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>>1105211
reminds me of my first camper (in the back of a pick-up truck)
pic somewhat related

Where can I get bigass slabs of wood, or rather just a part of a trunk or something?

>>1115039
I'm just making a space for a mounting plate to fit. I'll remember these for the next time I'm doing something that has to be tidy. For now just getting the recess is fine since it won't be visible.

>>1115112
That was what I tried, using the left/right to set a depth and then bring it down going top/bottom. I think the slant your seeing on the left side is from how I took the picture, it's straight on work piece.

>>1116724
Mounting plate for what? Shaving out depth to mount something can create problems with load bearing.

>>1116775
Nothing heavy, it's for a joystick.

>>1116667
A TREE

yeah but i don't have the tools necessary for the size I want (trunk about 30 inches in diameter). Nor do I know anything about identifying trees that would be worth cutting down, I assume some of them have fucked up defects inside of them. Also I'm sure there are numerous safety reasons (for me) not to do it.

>>1115546
They are either stupid and obviously wrong. Or meant a joinery float rather than a rasp

I'd guess the former

>>1116842
It's illegal to cut down trees in my country.

>>1117245
>It's illegal to cut down trees in my country.
Then you have two options:
1.) spend 8,000,000 bits of your F-ed up currency to import a proper slab into your F-ed, lumber hating borders. Spend another 400,000 bits on bribing your F-ed up customs muppets.
2.) buy cardboard, glue 4-5 pieces together, gnaw the edges to look like a "live edge" (do they allow food in your country? If not, double win), stain with grass clippings soaked in hot water (you can cut grass,right?). Let set for 2 days. Coat the whole thing with wipe on poly, repeat until firm. Proceed with your "woodworking".

Third option I nearly forgot:
3.) move.

Has anyone whittled ash wood? Our ash trees got decimated by bugs and now I'm sitting on literally hundreds of tons of ash.

I'm more interested in making bowls or pendants than anything else.

>>1117245
where do you live?

>>1117245
Spain?

>>1103317
You don't love your sister as much as OP does apparently.

>>1117462
The gnawing only works with a mouthful of Redman chewing tobacco. Imparts the right tinge in the cardboard.

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re did the top, satin or semi gloss to match the bottom part. I cant make up my mind. also how should my floating shelf layout be?

>>1117462
>>1117487
>>1117498
I was just joking, I'm not the poster looking for slabs of wood.

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I didnt want to make a thread for this and this seemed like an appropriate thread to ask
About how much would something like this set me back?
Prospective dimensions would be 6'tall, 6' wide, 2 tiers of planks, ideally (≤1')x12'x72'
Pine would be fine, I'll try to stain it myself
I just wanted a ballpark budget,

>>1117920
That's mostly metal piping

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>>1117920
you want to do it with piping like that? because thats expensive
cheaper would be to just use standard metal pipes and weld them together, thats what i did actually

heres a sketch i did, cant find a finish picture atm

>>1117948
>>1117920
found one before finish

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>>1117949
ayy

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I just made a cat tree earlier tonight. I made it for my roommate and he's happy with it and the cat seems happy with it too.

It was my first time dealing with carpet and first time using my new air compressor and nail gun. Fun stuff.

>>1119337
I forgot it was a stapler not a nail gun. I also bought a brad nailer/stapler but didn't end up using that one.

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New coffee bar I just made. First piece I'm selling. Black walnut top and shelf. Everything else is poplar. What would something like this sell for? I was thinking of asking $250. Thoughts?

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Hi anons, I'm looking forward to build something like this for me:
http://woodblock.com/encyclopedia/entries/024_01/024_01.html

I worked with wood for some short time, but it was long ago and I don't remember much of it, so sorry for the stupid questions. I have access to a good shop with plenty of tools.

What kind of wood do you think I can use for something this?
What kind of joinery do you think he used or what would be best for me, biscuit joints?

And about pic related, his tool rack slides out of the case, carrying over its bottom, but there is this small piece of wood at the side (circle) which I don't understand. If it's something to hold the underneath of the case, is it under the "floor"? I'm trying to reverse engineer this thing.

If you know of similar projects or ideas that could work better than this one, please let me know too.

>>1119483

Ask for 500 and negotiate for 300 at least. Looks nice but I wish you tapered those legs

>>1119337
How did you put the carpet around the columns? Before making the second floor?

Thanks for the reply. I wish I had tapered the legs as well in hindsight.

>>1119520
I actually only carpeted the bottom while building it and the rest was done after. I screwed the 2x4s down into it and cut around them. It required me to drive the screws a second time into the ends of the 2x4s but it worked alright. I will have to come up with a better way of doing it in the future. I plan on making several of these to sell cause I've got a lot of extra materials.

Going to make a height extension for one of my gecko tanks. The plan is 1x1 hardwood frame to rest on the lip at the top of the tank that the screen normally sits on. Dowel joints. Water based polyurethane to seal as the tanks needs high humidity. Coroplast sides and an acrylic panel on the front. I may swap out the coroplast for pvc panels at a later date. I want to test the coroplast first though.

>>1119626
Gotcha.

I think I'll do one of these for my cat too. I think you can make some good money if you sell them. They are so overpriced at the stores, while a the same time, relatively cheap and easy to build.

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Pretty good for being an amateur

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>>1119749

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>>1119750

>>1119752
>>1119750
>>1119749
10/10 for the rack.

a billion/10 if you told me you made the guitars as well kek

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Currently working on a mid century modern hall table. Only just started cleaning and gluing up though

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>>1120107
End goal is something like this, but about 3 feet tall. Not sure what to do with the legs yet.

>>1120100
Haha I wish. Thanks though. Once summer rolls around I'm going to clean it up a bit and stain it as well

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Can't say it's current anymore, as I just finished it tonight. But it came out pretty good I think. Second one of these I've done, but this one is significantly larger

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>>1120397
Old surplus military crate turned into a Liquor cabinet. Used to hold about 30 or so 1911s.

Wish I had better liquor to stage the picture with, infact, wish I had any liquor at all besides empties.

>>1104471
Looks great!
Doesn't the nosing along the end grain pop off when the wood expands?

>>1115568
paint it or get some edge banding, should be fine. edge banding might look nice with a contrasting color.

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>>1105211
The first DIY project never goes as planned. You can measure a hundred times but if you put the damn blade on the wrong side of the line you're going to be short. What're the different size holes for on either side?

>>1106419
>motor
How fast can it actually move?

>>1106420
Did you carve out the entire center or what?

>>1119337
That looks elegantly simple for a cat tower. Does it wobble at all?

First thing I built. Fucked up all over the place. Wrong dimensions, wrong hole sizes and placement, routering mishaps. Looks decent enough but I'd really like to make another one in the future that isn't so bad. e.g., popsicle sticks covering a hole that was barely too big. Learned a lot.

Haven't decided how to decorate it. Planned on woodburning the interchangeable front panels. Staining would be difficult since it's already built.

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9'x4'barn door

2" alder boards
Routed grooves
Biscuit jointed
Held together with wood glue and a few brad nails.

So much planing and sanding.

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Contributing...
made from scratch with my own design plan.
made it during what roughly translates over to Senior year of highschool.

i graduated as a furniture/interior carpenter and this was one of my own designs, if you want to see more closeups joints/interior/closeupps i have some more pics to post ?

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>>1120899
oh...sit i realized now that this was a "current woodworking projects" thread.....gues i got a bit to exited when i read "woodworking" and didnt read the rest hehe
unfortunatly i have no current project so this one will have to do......havent been on /diy/ for a while and have never shared this furniture so...

>>1120761
at first glance I assumed you used an automatic planer. Great job by hand my man, how did you glue up the bisquits?

>>1119483
Where did you buy handle?

>>1109021
that looks awesome, very homey. Looks modern and classic and i Like the wood top as I have only ever seen people use granite or that epoxy fake granite to upgrade from laminate. What type of finish? oil poly?

>>1120927
Boards were 10ft starting out. Biscuited every foot from 1 to 9. cut 6" off of each end after being glued up as 4x10

Planed single boards to clean up each side.(they were all rough cut and had to be straight lined as well)
Basically glued up the 8 boards into quarters after routing.

Ran the quarters through the planer again.

Glue up again to get two halfs. And finally glued the two halfs as one.

Mostly pipe clamps and a few 4' bar clamps when the time came. Had to alternate the clamps above and below the door so your ends don't curl up.

Went pretty light on the glue so it wouldn't ooze out into the grooves. A little ended up coming out but cleaned it up with a sharp chisel after the glue dried

>>1120445
Between the wood glue on the end grain, glue on the miters of the nosing and brad nails into both its solid.

>>1120919
This is beautiful man. I'm in love with it. Is the top made from resawn pieces?

>>1119513
pls respond

>>1120592
It does wobble a bit because I couldn't find my utility knife so I didn't cut out the carpet on the bottom. I'm going to either find my utility knife or buy another and finish it up by cutting out the space for the legs. I used MDF which I wasn't happy with so future cat towers will be made out of plywood instead.

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I'm making an outsided kitchen, this is the table, stratified with epoxy resin.

>>1121693
Oh. If it only wobbles because of the carpet that's not bad. I was meaning more of the structure itself. Hopefully it stands up to the wear and tear of the cat jumping on it.

>>1117462
>buy cardboard, glue 4-5 pieces together, gnaw the edges to look like a "live edge" (do they allow food in your country? If not, double win), stain with grass clippings soaked in hot water (you can cut grass,right?). Let set for 2 days. Coat the whole thing with wipe on poly, repeat until firm. Proceed with your "woodworking".

Is... is this legit or will that just make smelly wet rotting cardboard? Minus the gnawing part.

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>>1122489

Trolling aside. You can use resin impregnated cardboard as a structural material. Pic is a bike made of it.

>>1122492
just like you can use concrete impregnated Styrofoam laying foundations

>>1121755
What will you do for the edges?

>>1119513
It's hard to tell from the picture. I'd say probably a piece of wood to hold the tool shelf in the case at the bottom. That should be a strong joint, since you don't want the shelf falling out when carrying. I don't see a reason why that shouldn't be a solid board underneath. For the joints, I'd use dovetail or box for the case, but it looks like it might be plywood? For the legs I'd use mortise and tenon or pocket holes, same with the shelf. Pocket holes would probably be good all around if the wood actually is plywood. A jig is like 19 bucks and it will go together pretty quickly.

>>1119483
I dk, if the top was a solid piece and was actually a nicer piece of walnut, it might be worth it. The finish doesn't look great either, desu. You should really thin your polyurethane before applying, and try not to get dust in it, what were you installing fiberglass insulation in the same room? Also those cheap drawer slides, glue on the inside of your drawers and butt joints make it look cheap. Oh and the legs...anon, try to sell it to family. I'm sure your grandmother would buy it.

>>1119483
Actually you can say the top was salvaged lumber and get some money. Try harder next time, though.

>>1119483
What are the dimensions of it? How many hours of labor did it take you to make? How much was the materials cost? Did you make this with the intent to sell or just practice?

>>1122492
Anon I've seen people build houses out of plastered-over mud, twigs and leaves, paper out of ground up pants, and cook eggs in piss. I don't know what's trolling anymore.

Funnily enough one of my long-term project goals is a wooden bike though.

>>1104471
That light is fucking incredible

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>>1122498
Mahogany strips, laminated with epoxy resin as well.
The plane is there temporarily time to do something else.
Here the progress is only 40%

>>1106419
>I made a tank

Nicely cut and put-together.

But badly engineered.
1. The wheel setup is bad. The wheels are too big as they're supposed to drive the track, not function as normal wheels. You need unpowered, freespinning roadwheels at the bottom which let the tank ride along the track. With this setup it's better to just pop the tracks off and use tires.

2. You used chain links instead of tracks. Not only are you going to get dirt and crud in them easily, but they're not set up in a manner that works for a track. Look at some real tracks to get an idea of what you should be aiming for - every vehicle has a different setup but they follow some general design principles.

The electric motors are fine for the scale, assuming they're in the rear. When you get to building one with a turret don't forget to make the gun able to move not just left and right but also up and down.

what's a good beginner friendly set up for woodworking?

a block and a knife?

>>1103014
great list

I don't have pictures but I'm working on a digital picture frame for my mother. It's my first real woodworking project and I'm having a hell of a time getting my miter cut pieces to be at the perfect length so that the metal bevel of the old monitor I'll be using won't be visible. Any tips? I've got a table saw and I made a miter sled today since my miter gauge is trash

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>>1105211
Wow that Harbor Freight trailer looks like shit, you better paint it better than that. I'm gonna grab the Northern Tool one in a few days cuz it's already black and has better bearings. It's $100 more (costs $350) but trailers are a long term purchase so it'll be worth it to have better parts in the long run. Camper looks dope tho, keep us posted.

>>1123146
A saw, clamps, sandpaper and chisels.

>>1122499
Thanks for the input, anon. I think I'll adapt the design and include a solid board underneath. He mentions that neither side have a lip underneath (which would be the solid board before splitting), so he can puts his legs, but I'll think of some other solution for it.

I think I'll use box joints if I can or pocket holes if I think it is necessary.

>>1114712
Watch a few videos of Japanese carpenters. When it comes to chiseling wood, they know their stuff.

>>1120592
I wouldn't use wood for a case tho
Passive cooling's gotta be crap

>>1122618
Looks beautiful. I love the unusual shape of the top

>>1123585
There hasn't been any difference between my old case and this one temperature wise. If anything the wood one might be slightly cooler because I have two 200m fans that blow directly over the cards. I wondered the same thing when I built it.

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I've been working on secret wood rings, but I'm having the worst time getting my boards to splinter in a way that I want them to.
This attempt I didn't do any real work on the ring as I was focused on working with the resin.

>>1120592

I had a computer in a cardboard box in college, ran it on an ungrounded outlet. Didn't even need to touch buttons to reset it, the static sparks if I put my finger near handled it.

>>1124126
That sound dangerous but also pretty neat. Touch sensitive computer, not buttons required.

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Making a small 4 seat dining table. Still routing some roundovers, but 80% of the parts are finished and ready to be assembled.

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>>1124138

More parts, after being rounded over and sanded. First picture is just dry fit, before any router work.

>>1106308
look up secret forest ring on youtube,etc

just splinter wood, apply epoxy and dye and vla

>>1124138
>>1124139
interesting, how do you connect the table plate?

>>1108517

If you want cheap and sturdy it's hard to beat OSB. Screw+glue two 18mm boards together.

>>1108998

He'll need to buy some extra material to make a solid wood desk though. Cheapest would be a pocket screw jig (it's just to clamp the glue joints).

>>1124950
There's a groove on the back of the aprons the width of the saw kerf, and I will use table top mounting clips to float in the grooves.

>>1124962
2 x 18mm ? What's would be a lot, one will be sufficient. I can stand up on a board of 12mm without broken it (repartition ~70kg for 1.25m distanced)

>>1124962
>>1125521
18mm ply or chip is pretty much standard for flooring with 400mm joist spacing. Make of that what you will.
I have a workbench made with 3x18mm top. It just sits on the legs not fixed because its so heavy it just doesn't move. Takes a sledge hammer like a pro.

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Reusing old retaining wall timbers to build a mail box pic is the desired final product

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Starting point

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Squared up ready for allthread to join and then oil and mailbox

>>1107635
Looks great

>>1125763
I don't really like the color of the final result you want, but that's looking very nice

>>1112246
Damn. Noice

>just stained wood for the first time
>very careful, trying not to fuck this up
>turned out as a blotchy mess
I hate pine so much bros

>>1126345
Should have used pre stain conditioner dawg. Soft woods need it.

>>1126409
even then pine is still very blotchy.

>>1126345
should try a gel stain. sits on the surface more and isnt absorbed into the pores as readily. its not as clear of a finish but it looks better than a blotchy one.

>>1126424
I might go out and buy some. Do I need the conditioner too?