Got wood?

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>>1099706
Here is how the lid is now.

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>>1099707
Here are some pics with the lid open so you can see how the liner is set up.

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>>1099710

>>1099706
Season the wood prior to shaping it. Depending on how green your wood is, can take a week or two to adjust to the umidity of your shop, or months if it's fresh cut.

You can try to force it to stay straight by rotating the grain of the liner 90 degrees, like plywood. They should resist eacho ther a bit then.

>>1099707
This shows the root of your problem. The growth rings and radials are clear in your pic, and you can see where they swap direction. A board cut straight accross the grain, instead of along the curve like this one, will warp far less.

>>1099741
>A board cut straight accross the grain, instead of along the curve like this one, will warp far less.
this, get some quarter sawn oak and it should be a lot more dimensionally stable

>>1099743
I already purchased, and glued together more oak similar to the existing lid ;(.

>>1099741
I cant really season it ahead of time. I dont have a thicknessing planer and my jointer can only do up to like 3" stock. I also am low on time.

As for forcing it, what if I route out most of the space behind the liner, and glue in strips of oak across the grain? Would it cause cracking or would it be too weak to prevent bowing?

>>1099741
>to adjust to the umidity
also, the problem I think is the actual box. the inside is supposed to remain ~70% humidity, while the outside is just ambient, so around 25%. So no matter how much I let it set in my shop, if I cant seal it properly, its going to absorb a ton of moisture once the box is assembled.

That is why I feel I either need to seal, or brute force it.

>>1099741
This anon has it right, let the wood work against itself rather than against you.

>>1099747
Brute force with oak will make it crack.

It's a good looking piece and I hope your Dad gets years of use out of it.

>>1099746
Not an expert.. but how about adding a inner reinforcement? Like a steel rod or something. I'm talking about drilling a hole and put the steel rod there. You can cut the rod slightly shorter put some kind of covers on both side, for aesthetics.

>>1099764
I bought some 1/8 x 1/4 steel rod, but its too flexible. I may try .25" allthread, but I'll have to run to the store. Do you think it would crack the wood over time?

>>1099767
I would avoid it and stick with the purely timber based solutions you have been offered. You have made an amazing quality piece, no point ghettoing it up for the sake of a quick fix, especially one that may rust with the humidity, expand, and as you say, crack the wood.

Really though, 10/10 piece man, I know you're dad's gunna dig it if he's a cigarfag.

OP just route the edges off of the current piece and "frame" around the panel make like if you where making shaker cabinet doors.

Route a channel on the outer edge and put some weather stripping, it will seal the box like a motherfucker You can also put a thin channel of opposing-grain wood inside first to lock it in place, set with epoxy and I bet it wouldn't ever budge.

Have you thought about adding strips of wood around the perimeter of the lid. Imagine the lid would be like the box's main body but only like 2inches tall. You'd probably have to move the hinge to the outside of the box though.

You could try putting a wet rag on it again. But flipping the bow around and applying weight to it to force it to dry flat

>>1099767
>>1099770

I would also stick with the timber solutions, but I dont think that putting a rod is ghettoing it. That is what is used on a guitar neck, to compensate for string tension and humidity changes.
But then again, I think that using the right grain on both pieces and putting those grains at 90° is the best solution.

>>1099907
Which do you think would work better?

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Man, I'm glad you posted again! That is fantastic!

>>1099946
Last time I was takling about the box, the bowing didnt happen yet. Keep up, child.

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>>1099934
Try using a mitred trim, cut out of your oak.

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>>1100097
another without the ants

>>1100098
what are these connector pieces in the angles ? how are they called ?

>>1100194
not him, but those are just regular miter splines. they add alot of strength to the corners while being very decorative as a bonus

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Ok so I decided to route out a space on the underside. In this space I plan on gluing strips of oak perpendicular to the grain.

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>>1100433
The gray and black, piece of shit harbor freight clamp made it very difficult to align the board to my fence. Bastards, who uses plastic ratchet in a fucking clamp. Looks like I'm buying more Irwin.

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>>1100436
I cut the pocket just under .25" deep, so after I glue in my strips and disks, I can fine tune it.

The round piece you see here is Spanish Cedar, I am going to use disks of it in the spots where the hydrometer and hydration device fit so that the entire inside of the humidor is Spanish Cedar, a slight upgrade over the last lid which still had oak in that spot.

As for the strips of oak, Should I leave space to the sides, and ends of them, to allow for expansion; or should I make them fit as closely as possible?

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>>1100437
This is about how the inside of the lid will look once I finish it.

>>1100441
Also, should I try and seal this side of the oak before attaching the cedar layer? I know it would make the glue joint weaker, but I have literally gallons of thin epoxy laying around I could use instead.

>>1100451
Sealing won't matter, it just delays the inevitable. Go for the strongest glue joint possible.

>>1100461
Ok and last question, should I just use the strips of oak or should I also incorporate my steel?

>>1100464
Anyone?

>>1100464
Oak is actually more rigid then steel, unless the steel is engineered for stiffness in some way (triangle tubes, etc). Stick with the oak.

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Ok last night I finished gluing in my inserts.

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>>1101241
While it may look ghetto, it is pretty damn strong.

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>>1101242
lid is finally replaced. Now I'm rehydrating the box. Cross your fingers it doesnt bow.

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>>1101244
I think I prefer the grain on this lid over the last one.

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GUYS ITS FINALLY DONE

>Johnny Tobacco Naut
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>Gurkha and Cellar Reserve Limitada Kraken
>Gurkha and Cellar Reserve Edicion Especial Kraken
>Alec Bradley Black Market
>La Flor Dominicana La Nox
>Romeo y Julieta 1875 Reserve
>Leccia White
>La Gloria Cubana Series N
>Battleground CSA Jackson ???
>Camacho Connecticut
>Liga Privada No. 9
>Black Works Studio Killer Bee
>Padron 1964 Anniversary
>Crowned Heads Jericho Hill

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>>1102483

>>1102483
Very good box op. Now build 49 more :)

>>1102483

Congrats OP, you should be proud of this piece. You had a problem and with a little advice were able to work though it. Well done!