Antique Tools

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>>1099618
Here is the side of the jigsaw. They both have threading on the side to mount a plastic handle, it's in the box.

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>>1099620
Here is the side of the drill. It doesn't have a reverse mode, but has a trigger lock button so you can lock it with the motor running. This leads me to believe it is a commercial tool. I cant imagine many DIY guys in the 50s needed a drill that would keep running for long stretches of time.

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>>1099621
This is the tag on the top of the drill. It lists some basic info.

I tried searching the brand, model #, even serial, but nothing comes up. Not even a picture or reference of the brand.

Its definitly high quality. The case is actually some ferrous alloy, it is magnetic. I assumed initially it was aluminum. Also, the cables are very thick and rubbery, similar to the cable on modern makitas.

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>>1099622
It has a Jacobs Multi-Craft U4G61 chuck. I don't have the key but I can at least find one on ebay for this chuck.

>>1099618
Google the YT channel aVe, he dismantled a drill just like yours

I believe that the concensus is that those tools are stupidly reliable, motors were heavy duty made back I the day, same for switches, which were overkill almost all the time.

and you did predict it rite, that are from probably mid 50s or 60s,a time where drills and saws and shit all looked like freaking ray guns retrofitted for drill bits

>>1099622
cables probably were vulcanised rubber. extremely durable and fucking resilient to anything

or it could just be rubber, but not likely since it would've have been all rotten ed out by now

you got yourself a fucking gold mine dude

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>>1099618
>"W.T. Grant Co
Wikipedia says:
>W. T. Grant or Grants was a United States-based chain of mass-merchandise stores founded by William Thomas Grant that operated from 1906 until 1976. The stores were generally of the variety store format located in downtowns.

So it is a house brand. Think Craftsman or Husky. Clearly pre-1976 at least. The look 60's to me. Too blocky for 50's tools, which were much more rounded. Also, 50's drills tended to have shorter, stubby handles and have impressions in the main casing for the finger and thumb. They held drills differently back then.

>>1099621
>as a trigger lock button
A common feature of that era because...
>I cant imagine many DIY guys in the 50s needed a drill that would keep running for long stretches of time.
...they would mount them in a horizontal stand and use them as grinders/buffers. Picture related, a B&D example.

>>1099628
I collect old tools and cabling is a mixed bag. I have found identical tools, one the cable is shot and another its like new. How they were stored seems to have a large effect on longevity.

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>>1099636
Here is a better picture of the stand in action. Also, note the short handle and impressions in the casing near the "top" (the bottom since it is upside down) of the drill. Your finger or thumb would go there for better grip. These older drills had very low RPMs but massive torque. So you would hold the drill in such a way that it wouldn't break your wrist if it got caught and twisted on you. Basically, you palm would be on the back of the drill, not the handle, which was just for your lower fingers. It also meant you could really push down hard on the drill if need be.

>>1099636
>>1099637
Awesome thank you!!!

>>1099627
This actually leads to a key question, the reason I am trying to ID, is for a part. The motor smells like it is almost burned out. You know that, electric, ozone smell. I have no idea if I can replace the brushes or if I'll need a new motor, but in any case I need to find a bit more out. I don't want to take it apart until I have to.

In any case, it feels like the best quality drill I've ever used.

>>1099637
I have this same drill I picked up at a garage sale not to long ago, any idea what to do with the green wire (ground im assuming)? At first I thought it was jerry rigged but I've seen it in a few pics now

>>1099641
Brushes are generic. Pull them out, measure them and order replacements of the same size. Even Amazon carries them.

Burnt ozone smell is common with motors that haven't been used in a long time. Oxidation builds up on the commutator, which is generally made of copper. When you start using it again the brushes and electricity burn up the oxidation and make that smell. A cleaning of the commutator is all that is needed. It can be done with some very fine grit sand paper, emery cloth or a scouring pad.

>>1099649
In the mid-50s to early 60s, when two prong outlets were still code, they would sometimes ground the box of the outlet. This meant the plug was grounded even if it didn't have a prong to offer that convenience to the device plugged into it. So the screw that held the face plate to the plug was grounded. By putting that loop around the screw it acted as a ground for the device. It was a smart solution to a dumb problem.

Once three hole outelets became code the wire was replaced with a prong. This is often a bad thing for collectors, as the original owners would often cut them off, the fuckers. At least when they used wires they would often survive their dumbass owners.

>>1099657
>Brushes are generic. Pull them out, measure them and order replacements of the same size. Even Amazon carries them.
Oh cool. I have never bothered replacing brushes before. I've only ever burned out angle grinders, and just cheapie ones that I use as disposable tools (30 bucks, I've burned out 3 in like 2 years). The ozone smell reminds me of it, but maybe you are right about it just being from a lack of use. I'll hold off on replacing the brushes.

>Once three hole outelets became code the wire was replaced with a prong. This is often a bad thing for collectors, as the original owners would often cut them off, the fuckers. At least when they used wires they would often survive their dumbass owners.
Yeah the ground pin on the drill is cut off. I assumed this is why. It's amazing how long it took for a ground pin to be standard.

AvE took apart a drill similar to yours

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jKb0Pt66NlE

>>1099660
dont use it without the ground, its dangerous.

>>1099931
This is correct. Replacing a plug with a cut off ground prong is child's play. Please do it if you plan on using the tool.

That said, none of the outlets in my house are grounded. Not even the boxes. No cladding, no ground wires, nothing. Plain two wire from stem to stern. The only thing grounded in the whole place is the breaker box. So, the ground cord wouldn't do me much good in any situation. That's what I get for buying a place made in 1951.

>>1099982
There are adapters with a wire that screws to the outlet housing. You should really get one.

>>1099999
Wouldn't the outlet boxes have to be grounded for that to do any good?

>>1100031
They likely are

>>1099999
Someone didn't read my post very well. Either that or you do not have an understanding of how grounding works.

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>>1099618
Hey, cool! Thats an old german "Knirtzfonker" - my grandfather used it much & often. I do not know the american brand name, but it in a time, where all good stuff in germany was US - made.
Maybe the name is what ppl call it, as "fonker" is term used for radio-station operators.
Excuse my bad english. Hope that will be helpful.

>>1100049
Yup, totally fucked up reading it.

>>1100039
He said the boxes aren't grounded in his post though.

Hi guys I just used the jigsaw today, it worked like a charm! It's loud enough that after about 4 inches of .25" oak I ran to my garage to get earplugs, but it cuts well.

I must say it feels weird using a jigsaw with an on/off switch instead of a trigger.

>>1099649
Metal housing tools are not double insulated. The ground should connect securely to the frame of the tool and always use a three prong plug in a properly grounded receptacle. Do this and they are perfectly safe. You can still get rubber insulated cords. They are still used in certain high end computer servers and cabinets. They are reasonable replacements on antique power tools.

Grant's was a hardware store brand like Sears and Western Auto. Their tools were made by Rockwell, Emerson, Black and Decker and a shit ton of other quality makers. Sometimes bushing instead of bearings and other mods to hit a price point but generally good quality stuff.

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Guess wat followed me home today. Outside is a little rough...

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>>1100930
...but the inside is pretty clean. Some surface rust but nothing serious.

>>1100932
Awesome! How much you pay?

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>>1100932
All of the original accessories appear to be there. Even the buffing compound, which is unused.

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>>1100937
Sorry for the blur, best I could do with the flash off. The flash was washing out the labels.

>>1100934
$14 and change.

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>>1100938
It runs on AC or DC, so it's got a universal motor. The chuck, which is a very early keyless design made by Jacob's can be removed with an Allen key for mounting the other accessories.

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>>1100939
This is how you hold these older drills.

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>>1100946

>>1099999
But in which thread is the post after this post?

>>1099637
At first I thought this metal cased tool had no earth ground, then I spotted what looks like a green lead for it. I guess you had to find a ground back in the day?

Anybody with some first hand knowledge about that? I assume they could have a jumper and attach it to a pipe but it's also safe to assume that many people would skip that step.

>>1101951
There was a short time in the 50's and early 60s when they would sometimes ground the box even when the outlet only had 2 holes. Sometimes they used three-wire and just tied it to the box. Other times they would run a separate, often bare, ground wire and just tie it to the outside of the box somewhere. So, if you attached the wire to the screw holding the faceplate down, you would be grounded.

The drill I posted all of the pictures of is basically the same as >>1099637 but is has a standard three-prong plug. So, it must have been a later model.

>>1101964

Sometimes they grounded the boxes by a lead to the plumbing supply line. Of course this was when all the pipes were metal. Nowadays all it would take would be for someone to repair the plumbing by inserting a run of plastic and poof! there goes your ground.

>>1099618
A near by thrift store has a similar drill thats tempted me for half a year, but i dont have enough of a need for a drill to buy it.

>>1099618
If i plugged one of these in to test, what are the chances of it making my heart explode?

>>1103622
Only use your right hand to hold it.
If you get shocked, it wont travel through your heart and kill you.

>>1103622
If its grounded properly? Right about zero.

>>1099618
For anyone that has these types of tools, check to make sure they have a ground plug. A lot of the older ones do not have a ground plug. When they short out, their metal will shock the piss out of you. For those that are not grounded, you can open them up and replace the cord with a 3-prong and wire a grounding wire to the metal case inside. For those that have the green wire ground on the plug, just shove it into the ground plug hole in the wall outlet.

If your outlets don't have a ground, attach the ground wire to the neutral wire. Both go to ground anyway. What you want to do is give the electricity a place to go besides you if the chase shorts.

>>1100055
I have a few good old wrenches left with west-Germany written on the side.

>>1103730
>1950s power tools
>grounded

>>1103924
>Doesn't read thread
>Completely misses a dozen photos of 50's tools with ground wires and prongs

>>1103931
There area grand total of two power drills in this thread, and one of them is grounded.

>>1103935
You are top tier retarded. Only OP's picture is of a drill without a ground and that's because someone cut it off.

Hey everyone,

I just purchased a house privately and a bunch of older tools were left behind! I am not home at the moment, but need to head back in a few hours to throw more logs in the stove! Would you guys be interested to see?

Tools include: various belt driven tools, worm driven and brakeless direct driven circular saws, jig/saber saws, sanders, drills, etc.

>>1104132
Never hurts. Take some decent photos and try to include the makes and model numbers.

>>1100946
Drywall screw guns are meant to be held this way today too.

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All bought at a garage sale, total under $30, plus another $10 for new cords, etc.

Drill press stand is Craftsman, drill and clutch saw are POWR KRAFT and the sander is SKIL

The saw came in a really nice wooden box that I scraped some pitch/tar off of, covered with KILZ and then repainted.

>>1104618
That saw looks pretty awesome.

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>>1104618
A little tidbit for you: Powr-Kraft was a Montgomery Ward tool brand. It was originally used for their 'high end' tools. 'Master Quality' being their budget stuff and 'Speed Master' being used on some automotive tools (to the best of my knowledge). Kind of like how Sears has Craftsman at the high end and Evolv on the lower end (and in the past had Companion, Dunlop, or just plain Sears for lower end stuff).

Check the cords, the bearings, and the brushes. Replace as needed, as they are cheap and easy to find. After that, they should run forever.

>>1104662

The saw cord was completely ruined from dryrot. It was replaced. Didn't even think to check the brushes.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It cut through a bunch of old growth 2" ceder boards well enough.

>>1104689
Brushes aren't a big deal. If it works, they are probably good. Cheap make sure they aren't worn down to nubs and, if they are, put a new set on your Amazon wishlist so you can order them when the tool stops choochin.

Bearings are another story. In tools like these, they are generally 'permanently lubricated'. The grease they used lasts a long time but even then, 40+ years is pushing it. The grease breaks down or turns clay-like on you and it doesn't matter if it was only used for an hour before being put away back in 1963 or not, it's time to replace the bearing. Bad bearings can make the blade or bit wobble, steal power from your motor, or maker your motor overheat. The real bad news is when you seize a bearing. When you seize a bearing one of three things happens: the tool stops choochin (which is bad), you spin the bearing (very bad), or the bearing explodes (extremely bad).

If the motor can't spin it is likely it also can't cool itself. You turn the equipment off ASAP or you will fry the motor, start a fire, or trip a breaker. Sometimes all three. If the bearing spins you are well and truly fucked. It will chew up the bearing surface inside the shell or frame of the tool. That can make seating a new bearing a real chore and maybe make the tool not worth saving. I don't think we need to go into the consequences of exploding a bearing but let's just say the insurgents in Iraq used to love packing IEDs with them and leave it at that.

Bearings are cheap and can be found on Amazon. If it's a weird size, check out the Accurate Bearing Company. They have everything.

>>1104716
>motor overheat

can you stall and overheat a clutch saw?

>>1104781
I am not familiar with the term "clutch saw" (a regional term?) so I can't tell you what it's inner working are like. Chances are the motor still has to spin on something even if the blade isn't turning. If those bearings lock up and you keep applying power to the motor it will overheat.

Electric motors generally have a fan assembly that is attached to the rotor. As the rotor spins it cools the motor. If the bearings holding the rotor in place seize on you then its only source of cooling ceases. If power continues to be applied then heat will continue to be generated until something fails.