Clogged Fire Extinguisher

I'll say it....did you pull the pin?

>>1099460
sadly, you have to ask these things on this board

>>1099460

Yes. In fact, the pin was pulled before I found it.

>>1099463

maybe its so empty the needle spun

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>>1099460
>>1099461

Just in case, here's a picture of the extinguisher with handle depressed and pressure gauge still in the green.

>>1099467
does it sound empty when you shake it?

>>1099486

It sounds like there's some powder inside when I tilt it, but I don't know how much.

You can loosen the top fitting slightly and listen for escaping gas. If you hear any, leave extinguisher outdoors until pressure bleeds off, then unscrew fitting rest of the way.

"Tightness' only seals. Threads are what provide structural strength.

I'm not speculating. I've done this and have many years working with industrial gases.

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>>1099501

Thanks for the tip!

With the care and paranoia of a bomb disposal expert, I unscrewed the handle and... It's empty! Or at least it didn't have any gas in it, despite being about half full of powder.

I was planning to use the pressure gauge in my project too, but I presume it's completely broken since it's still showing 15 bars despite being unscrewed from the tank.

>>1099519
are those things aluminum or steel?

>>1099522

I think they're steel.

>>1099523
Foundry crucible material.

>>1099519
>I was planning to use the pressure gauge in my project too, but I presume it's completely broken since it's still showing 15 bars despite being unscrewed from the tank.
Put your lips on it and suck with a force of 15 bar. If it doesn't go back to zero then it's fucked.

>>1099552
There's more than one way to call OP a fag I guess.

>>1099519
if you need a functioning fire extinguisher, look up a safety supply company, or a fire inspector in your area. There may be places to recharge and re-certify the unit.

>>1099461
so unbelievably true senpai. a bit of my soul is gone.

>>1099582

Nah, I just need it for holding pressurized air. It would have been handy if the original gauge had worked too.

I'm also going to need to make a hole for the filling valve, but I don't have anything to make the threads for it. I've thought about making a hole just big enough for a bicycle tire valve, cutting it off the tire while leaving a good edge of rubber around it, and putting that in the hole from the inside of the extinguisher. Would that work for holding in the pressure?

>>1099590
how much pressure are we talking about?

>>1099592

The original gauges green zone goes from 10 to 18 bars, so getting close to 18 ought to be the best this tank can safely hold in it.

>>1099590
Don't use a bicycle valve, use a rubber automobile tire valve. Debur your hole and they'll seal fine. I have one in a keg I converted to use as a weed killer spray rig.

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>>1099887

The valve appears to be similar to car tire valve, but is it weaker? Just to clear it out, I'm using one like in the picture, not the smaller vents that were the standard bicycle vents in the past.

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>>1099933

I mean, what I'm thinking of using.

Also, for comparison here's what I meant with old standard bicycle valve.

>>1099933
Tube tire valve bodies don't seal the holes in a rim or your ghetto air tank.

Automobile tires are tubeless (except perhaps in the bowels of the third world), hence my telling you to use an automobile valve body.

Metal or rubber valve body styles will work. You auto store has both. They are cheap.

ask >>>/pol/

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>>1099952

>Tube tire valve bodies don't seal the holes in a rim

What does this mean?

Also, here's my plan for the valve illustrated.

>>1100373
It means they're only designed to seal the tube.

>>1100430

I still don't understand. Aren't all tire valves meant for sealing the tires they're in? And most of all, would my idea above work?

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>>1100443
tube valves are built right into the tube so it's already sealed and with a tube there's no need to seal the rim. cutting up a tube would be fucking pointless and more expensive. what you want is just a regular old valve stem used on tubeless wheels(pic related)

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>>1100443

What you want to do won't work with a bicycle valve because the valve is simply just going to pop out of the tank as soon as you put the slightest hint of pressure in it. The excess rubber you plan on leaving around the valve is not rigid and is not strong enough to hold it in place.
It works on bicycles because the valve is glued to the rest of the tube and that's what keeps it together, but it doesn't work if that kind of valve is left alone.
What's more, bicycle tubes (and thus the rubber they are made out of) are rated for very low pressures.

What you want is something like >>1100454 says, they are automotive valves, the bulge on one end is designed to tightly lock around both sides of the hole in a rim and keep it in place.

The problem is automotive wheels aren't supposed to be filled up with more than 5 or 6 bars for any substantial amount of time and they usually run in the 2-3 bar range, so the rubber valve may not be safe for the pressures you are going to work with.
Truck wheels (and by truck I mean semis) usually work in the 8-9 bar range so they might be safer to use.

Your best bet is to get a metal valve like pic related, you just pull it out of the hole, screw the nut from the outside and you are done.
They are much stronger than any rubber valve and will easily cope with the pressures you want, the only "problem" is that you have to be much more accurate with how large the hole is as there isn't as much seal around the valve as in traditional rubber valves.

Thickness of the metal is also important, the metal.around the valve hole in a car wheel is only a few mm thick, while your tank is probably much thicker.
Metal valves can easily work on much thicker holes because as long as you have some exposed threads to lock the nut, they will still hold air, rubber valves won't.

Metal valves are widespread nowadays, they are the only valves that can be used on cars equipped with TPMS sensors so they are cheap and easily found at part stores.