Glowbars

>>1089552
>Do they go off after the oven ignites?
Yes

>it it safe for long periods of time?
No

>Are they supposed to run on normal 120V
Yes

>What is the ignition temperature of propane?
455C 851F

>(The temperature they heat up to)
Not a clue but they get rilly hot.

Oh.. and never ever touch them with your bare hands. The oil in your skin will screw them up and make them burn out faster.

>>1089552
Also.
Look up halogen lamps, they get hot enough to sterilize and can run all the time.

>>1089616
So it will probably burn out prematurely if it's on for long periods of time?

>>1089619
almost certainly.

You might be able to pick up a replacement heater element for an electric oven or stovetop.

>>1089616
>Not a clue but they get rilly hot.

Usually to a white glow, so somewhere north of 2000°C. Being tungsten, they can take it well, but I don't think running them for extended periods would be a good idea.

Additionally, they're physically too small for what you want, really. You're going to want a larger element that doesn't get anywhere near as hot. 120V/240V elements for ovens are also dirt cheap (you can easily fine one for under $20 if you're not looking for a specific model), so I'm not sure why you'd bother with an electric ignition, anyway.

>>1089552
>I am trying to use one to sterilize compost.

get a pressure cooker

>>1089616
They do not actually turn off after the oven ignites.... in a dryer yes, but not in a gas stove.... the one in ops pic specifically is designed to be wired in series with a gas valve, as the igniter gets hotter it lets more amperage through, and above about 2.6 amps it opens the gas valve... igniter stays on the whole time the stove is lit... the idea being that if the igniter is weak or broken then it'll either let no power, or not enough amperage to the valve and so will only let gas out if the igniter is on and got enough to ignite said gas... it's a very safe system.

>over 9000 hours fixing appliances...
Also they are fine to stay on for long periods of time provided they're not somewhere where the accumulated heat will cause damage.... also they are extremely brittle and shatter if shocked.... also they go white looking when they start to get too old to function properly....

But yeah for compost I'd look at using an electric element for heat... if you run 120 through it you can get it to warm the compost without burning it.... maybe consider rigging up some kind of temp control system... you could use the bimetallic thermostat off a dryer... use mechanics wire to put it right on the heater element... should cut out when the element surface hits 250... when it cools it'll reset and complete the circuit and let the cycle repeat... maybe consider throwing the high limit on there as well so if the thermostat fails closed the high limit shuts down the circuit for good and keeps you from starting a fire...

>>1089715
Didn't know that, thanks.
My only experience is with a gas furnace. It relies on a secondary thermal switch system for safety.