Reinforcement plate - which material?

You sure are dragging your fucking feet on this anon

>>1083727
put a new beam of the exact same dimensions of the old beam back in.

the fact that its oversized doesn't matter when compared to the hassle and cost of building around it like you are talking about. it doesn't hurt anything being oversized, and i bet you the stucco finish will look better.

>>1083727

Go 3/4 and 1/4, presumably their glue joints will be better than yours. Worst case it still has the strength of the 3/4.

>>1083735
...and people say Anonymous has an attention span of a goldfish...

Tell me about it. Had a few unrelated minor disasters along the way, had to take care about that first. Also, there were three different gaps to take care of, each with its own challenges. This is the last one.

>>1083746
I agree with your reasoning.

I'm thinking of putting the 1/4 first and 3/4 on top of it with seams staggered, reasoning being - if installers use the lugs too short for the purpose, they're still gonna be held by the thicker sheet.

What would you glue the sheets with? I've had really good results with Titebond - I don't think construction adhesive will spread evenly here (about 12" width), too thick.

>thinking of using plywood on an exterior area
>ironically after replacing a rotted piece of wood

>>1083737
>exact same dimensions
won't work, the new construction is too different, and flashing on the old structure was busted - which caused the rot in the first place

>>1083763
Considering that the house is over 30 years old and the only rot was where installers took a shortcut, I'd say it's good enough for me. Plus, better materials, better execution, the whole nine yards.

>>1083764
then get a beam planed down to the right thickness. i'm telling you that trying to cobble something together like you are talking about is not worth it.

>>1083769
>cobble
Believe me, I hate this idea myself, but

>get a beam planed down
getting a 12' 12" beam planed even a half inch is a hell of a job even if you have the right tool, and is absolute suicide with tools like power hand planer.

Quick search: DEWALT DW735, $550+tax - and I don't have any other use for it.

What are the standard wood plank thicknesses around 1" (both nominals and what they actually shrink to)? I have a hunch that if I want to get a plank exactly 1" thick, I'm moving from "construction grade" wood to "craftsman grade", which is going to cost me a pretty penny - with absolutely no value for it.

>>1083727
http://m.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-12-in-x-12-ft-Common-Board-458554/100322339

?

>>1083775
Damn, I may be dumb.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check the SKU tomorrow. There may be a catch, though, like this (watch the hands):

http://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-4-in-x-96-in-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Whitewood-Stud-161640/202091220
>Common: 2 in. x 4 in. x 8 ft.;
>Actual: 1.5 in. x 3.5 in. x 96 in.
Half inch difference.

>>1083775
>>1083780
Actual product thickness (in.) : 0.75

Which has better shear strength - wood, or plywood?