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Joints for my crib.

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Thread replies: 11
Thread images: 2

So I'm gunna be dad. (no need to congratulate me)
I thought I'd have a go at making a cot. Design pic related. I've got most of the timber already.
Using mostly recycled hardwoods (Australian).

Basically the design is 4 frames that will screw together so that it can be disassembled, and if this situation arises again in the future we can drag this thing out from under the bed and put it back together.

I was thinking it would be nice to do some interesting joins for the frames themselves, but I never really know which joint to choose for which situation. Does /diy/ have any advice?

Also, thoughts on this design in general? I think it's up to current standards.
>>
>>1079914
>recycled
>current standards
I'd highly suggest looking at other designs and doing some research about the consumer protection laws surrounding cribs

may seem unnecessary, but you want to do everything possible to make sure kiddo will be safe in it

>interesting joins
I don't know about "interesting", but it seems like mortise and tenon joints would be best

they wouldn't exactly be collapsible though
>>
>>1079924
I'm remilling it myself. I have jointer and a thicknesser. This isn't some pallet wood thing.

There's four sides and a base.
This is two of the sides.
>>
>>1079927

As far as joints in each individual section I'd think mortise and tenon would be about as far as I would take it. I mean you want to get extra fancy do a pegged version on each corner facing out, sanded flat.

It looks like you might be using dowels on the long sides? I'd reconsider that unless tightly spaced. Kids like to try and get their body parts through there, a square/rectangle is going to be better. I'd visit the local store and check out a manufactured crib to make sure you are getting a close enough spacing just to be sure.
>I mean 1" space on dowels would be fine, but like 4" and the kid will end up with his leg or arm stuck in there like a pinch point.
>>
>>1079938
So the current Australian Standards are that the holes should be between 50 and 90mm. That's big enough for a limb, but not big enough for a head.


You can't have holes that would trap a finger either (5 to 12mm)

There's also rules about protrusions. You can't have things sticking into the crib area, and you can't have raised corner posts (like most old timey adult beds have) because they can potentially hang the kid if they climb over and snag their clothes on it.

I'd kinda like to do something that avoided end grain being exposed, but I don't really want to do a mitre.

It's a good point you make about the dowells though. I've got a pile of 19mm hardwood dowell, which I like the finish of, if nothing else. I realise though that the bending thing is an issue. It's hardwood, but I might do a test to see how much you can deflect it. Or maybe I'll just decrease the spacing.
>>
>>1079974
I would half lap the slats into the frame. And use glue. No little kids gonna use their super grip and rip the glue off. If you want use epoxy instead of PVA. but with a cured pva, I tend to see wood failure more often then glue.

Hell even hot glue is strong enough to rip plywold layers apart... Learned that one the hard way.
>>
>>1080007
Yeah I use AV515 when I really want things to not fall apart and PVA for just about everything else.
>>
>>1079914
>>1080007
second the half lap, use half lap joints and ignore the mortise and tenon fags.
use glue for the half laps imo, and make the sides solid with the only dissasembleable joints at the corners.
I would suggest using unglued dowel joints (or glued only on one side) and bed bolt type design to attach the sides firmly.

have you thought about using a drop gate crib design (not a drop side, where one side slides down, one where one side folds down or out)?
>>
>>1080138
Imo and half laps are a lot easier to do on a table saw or router with a jig then doing like 600 god damn tenons.

I like the drop gate idea (im not opee) i kinda picture like maybe doing something like an old school garage door style gate but upside down where it folds under the crib.


On a less complicated note. I assume opee doesn't plan on being a shit parent so heres what you need to make as well.

Stroage. Book shelves (at least 1 like 5x5' shelf or so.) and wall shelves. Oh and buy one of those fire safety boxes so you can lock up ur kiddos SS card (do aussies even have those?) and birth certificate. And get a filing cabinet for important documents but not vitally important you could stand to lose, like insurance paper work, bills, vaccines records.
>>
Op again.

Seems to be a consensus about half laps.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a type of hardware to connect the four frames?

>>1080138
I might make the base connect solidly so that a side can be removed entirely. The advice is that once your kid can climb they're done with a cot, but if you take a side off you've basically got a mini bed.

>>1080147
Yeah we've got birth certificates. But you don't get issued government numbers until you have a job or start claiming welfare on your own. We've got a filing cabinet already.

I've built a baby-change table already. Open storage below. Pics soon.
>>
>>1080385
Father of a 19 month old here. Wait a couple of months after climbing starts before taking the sides off, kids still fail at shit for a while and the drop from my sons bed to the floor makes a hefty thump and a lot of tears.

When you do take it off, leave a mink blanket or foam mattress underneath because they WILL roll out of bed a few times.

Apart from that, I used epoxy to fix loose slats. Holds better for longer.

Welcome to the club bro - NZ dad
Thread posts: 11
Thread images: 2


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