/3dpg/ additive manufacturing general

Whats everyone printing for Halloween?

>>1075658
cocks

>>1075661
Hope you have a gigabot, only way it could print big enough for your use

>>1075618
I guess its just going to be a meme that OP is too fucking stupid to put "3d printing" in the title, even though he has been told 3 generals in a row to

cura update v2.3.0
it seems better

though, i can't find the input for z hop height after i updated even if i have the setting enabled

>>1075790
when you hover over material in advanced you will see a cog/gear show, click that and click the check mark for the crap you want to control and z hop controls are under material for some reason

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So I have a table saw that has this model fence on it.
I am missing the both black plastic endcaps on the right side.
Luckily I still have the 2 left caps that I can use

Whats the best way to try and model them?
Im not very knowledgeable in modelling, have only made some very basic parts.

>>1075801
both look super simple, maybe trace them, put the picture into your cad thing of choice and wham bam thank you mama?

>>1075658
Nothing, because I don't own a 3D printer.

>>1075802
I did trace them, but am having a very difficult time getting them into 123D.
Ive been watching 123D tutorials and not really finding anything on actually turning a real object into a model.

>>1075804
take your trace and make it into a .svg, then use import svg, I think tinkercad may support .png/jpegs and what not

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>>1075799
yes, that's what i did

i'm pretty sure the hop is on, though, as i've noticed no more scarring on my top layer
oh well, as long as it works

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>>1075724
I do it just to grind your gears.

>United States and global Technical standards use the official term additive manufacturing for this broader sense. ISO/ASTM52900-15 defines seven categories of AM processes within its meaning: Binder Jetting, Directed Energy Deposition, Material Extrusion, Material Jetting, Powder Bed Fusion, Sheet Lamination and Vat Photopolymerization.

http://www.astm.org/Standards/ISOASTM52900.htm

>>1075808
You do it because you are a shitty OP.

>making it harder for people to find the general so they make stray threads not knowing it exists
Really great job

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>>1075807
>>1075799
wait, i got it now
i had to uncheck then check zhop for it to appear
might be because i loaded up an old profile
weird


anyway, i have a question for the general:
should i use a 12V 20A switching power supply over a standard 12v 10A wall adapter for my printer?

the printer i got has some reports from other owners of the stock power supply failing (it's one of those big plastic laptop style power supplies)
the switching PSU i have is one of those units that come in a silver aluminum case with a fan and has screw terminals (iirc, some printers come with these)

would the amperage be too much?
i have noticed huge dips in bed and hotend temps right at print start, though (seems like power issues to me)
only other thing than amps is the polarity on the printer power jack that i'd have to figure out, which should be easy

>>1075618
wtf is this "additive manufacturing general" spergy elitism shit? put "3d printing" in the title you mong

>>1075825
Hes like the Tiko guys. Just wait till he starts yelling about how the technical term for hotends is actually a "liquifier"

>>1075811
>making it harder for people to find the general so they make stray threads not knowing it exists

Lurk moar.

>>1075825
Not elitist enough if you cunts can still find us.

>>1075856
>supposedly do something to "grind peoples gears"
>gets mad and calls people cunts when called out for being a retard.

/b/ is invading /diy/

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>>1075658
It is more of coincidence that I printed this at this time, but I guess it could also be considered as Halloween themed print.

>>1076438
Are those drooloops?

Top layers on PLA prints are curling upwards (mostly notably on overhang sections)... Any ideas?

I've printed a fan funnel thing to cool the nozzle whilst printing, will this help?

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Oh boy worst failed print yet. Left it after the first layer so didn't get to see the failure that looks like happened at the second layer. This whole thing was stuck on the extruder

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>>1076930
When I found it, I turned the extruder up to 210 and pulled it off. Smoke emitted and smelled like burnt plastic. Maybe the hot plastic melted the wiring insulation? This is what it's like now and I'm afraid to reheat it (I still have a headache). Any idea of what to do? I have a dual extruder (e3d chimera) so I could just install that. Problem is this is one of my first dozen or so prints. I never really got got good prints with PLA with the stock hot end (the ABS fan shrouds came out fine but those were just two). Can I salvage this one? How? Or should I just install the chimera?

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>>1076936
Another angle on the extruder

>>1076824
cooling is important. But you are not supposed to cool the nozzle. Instead you cool the printed part.

>>1076939

Yeah, i tried to make my fan duct point staight under the nozzle. Will install it and test i suppose, may need to make a v2

>>1076930
>>1076936
>>1076937

Was this PLA?

Dissasemble as much as possible, then soak the plastic area in ethyl acetate for about 30minutes - should go all rubbery, and you can just peel it off

>>1075618
>https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide

Does anyone else just hate this buying guide?

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>>1075815
looks like one of these
>pic related
also, might just rig up a spare computer ATX psu instead


also wanted to ask:
abs juice (liquidy) vs. abs slurry: which is better?
i used some low ratio abs juice and prints have stuck well to the heated bed with very little warping on a cold spot
would it be worth making a thicker abs slurry? it seems like it would take just a bit more effort to apply evenly, though

>>1077103
Me and a couple other people made the OP copypasta during the first general. It was whipped up in a day as sort of a placeholder, but very little work has went into it since then.

The 2015 one that was up from the same site was just as bad

>>1077104
>abs juice

I've switched to purple gluestick at this point. slurry is too high maintenance.

The purple is very important.

>>1077104
I get good results with PVA based wood glue.
I mix it with 5 parts water and whipe it on the bed at 60°C.
A guy I work with uses Avery Zweckform J8567 sheets. It's the strongest bed adhesive I've ever seen. removing the printed parts is verry hard though.

>>1077104
>>1075815
I have 2 printers both running on 30A Supernight power supplies.

Knock on wood, but I havent had an issue with either of them (other than the fan being noisy, but my one printer is covered in noisy ass fans).

I would buy the 30a over the 20a just to have the headway if you need it, you wont be running your PSU as hard and they only cost a few dollars more (for the cheap clones)

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>>1077286
I'm looking to buy a 3D printer and I've narrowed it down to this one:

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html

Should I go with it?
Anyone else have this model?
What is your experience with this if you do have it?

>>1077339
The i3 design is good and very popular, many people have all different variants of it.

The "Original Prusa" made by Josef himself come with high end parts which is why it costs more than cheaper ones.

Its going to be a nice printer. I know of at least 1 guy who has bought the original and posted about it ITT.

There are people with dirt cheap bottom of the barrel kits who do just fine with the design, having the money to buy a premium kit is a really nice thing.

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>>1077339
Jesus christ, this is one hell of a stress test

>>1077350
>>1077354
I saw some models on amazon for half the price
I'm assuming that those are cheap knock off models?

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>>1075801
I finished them. The flash makes it look like there are a lot more voids and imperfections than you can actually see IRL.
There were just real quick .3 layer prints to see if they fit. They pass the eye test well enough im probably going to just leave them.

No more scraping myself rubbing into exposed aluminum edges

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>>1077361

>>1077361
>>1077362
Nice job, I'm impressed you got such a good fit first time.

>>1077360
Its an open source design. He released the design for anyone and everyone to do as they please with it. Whether it be to modify it or sell it or whatever.

So in essence there cant really be a "knock off" of the printer.
He only recently started selling the printers themselves, while people have been selling his design for like 4-5 years now.

By "knock offs" it talks about on the sales page is referring to the cheap clone Arduino based boards that control the printers. A lot of them are complete shit, but they work and are dirt cheap.

You can buy an i3 printer kit that will lay plastic for 200$.
It just has very low quality parts that you will eventually want to replace or they will fail.

Thats were buying the premium kit comes in. It has a very high end electronics board, and a very high end hotend (two things you would want to replace in the cheap kits). And of course it has a better frame which is a lot harder to replace if you get a cheaper kit.

It also comes with acme screws and of course its got the auto leveling calibration deal.

But a cheap kit will get by perfectly fine. There is a pretty steep learning curve regardless.

Its a great printer, but cheap kits make great printers in the right hands too.

>>1077363
Thanks. It wasnt really the first print. I printed a few 1-2 layer pieces to check for fit. It was the first full chamfered piece with the screw hole in it.

The whole scanning a traced paper into a SVG and then cleaning it up in photoshop got it very close first shot. Im shocked at how well it worked

>>1077368
I think I'm going to go with the expensive one
thanks for your insight, I've got a small business where I need to make prototypes of things and such but I don't want to send away for someone else to print it out for me and get the item back like a month later

>>1077372
Keep us updated on it.
I have seen auto leveling sensor upgrades before, but ive never seen that full XY calibration thing.
It looks like a pretty interesting setup

>>1077369

Yeah, the tracing (or just placing what youre trying to fit into on a scanner) is a great way for making parts, especially when you need to match irregular shapers like that

>>1077373
I don't go to /DIY/ very much but I'm planning on seeing if it goes on sale during black Friday
If I do get it I there is no doubt that I will be back here asking questions

>>1077375
>Scanner
That's a great idea, I've been fucking around with curve gauges and calipers.

>>1077383

Only really works with slim objects, but its a great timesaver! Mucho recommendo

>>1077383
Scanner and illustrator is where it's at.

>>1077103
>>1077129
It is not that good but I haven't seen a better one yet. The copypasta needs some rework in the hotend and filament sections and I think that we should move it a bit away from advertising. Also there should be some links for SLA, SLS and other techniques.

>>1077405
It's kinda hard not to advertise in it, it's such a niche market with so little brands.
It's not like the thread was paid by E3D, but there aren't any other good hotends out there.

>>1077407
Yes the E3D is the best alternative and I think that j-head doesn't even exist anymore. For filaments I thought that there should be categories: "most commonly used","a bit harder to use" and "special filaments" and then just a recommendation not to buy the cheapest chinkshit one can find.

>>1077421
That's not a bad idea at all.

pretty fucking interesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZX8eHC7fws

>>1077339
hard to beat a proper prusa mk2, yeah its pricey, but has some neat shit, good CS, and cool new shit coming its way

>>1077455
Here's a paper where they did some more in depth exploration of PLA annealing:
http://leaders.4spe.org/spe/conferences/antec2016/papers/531.pdf

Caution: heart warming feels ahead

>Upgraded to a dual extruder printer
>Gave my old one to a close friend of my parents
>Spend the first night after I gave it to him learning FreeCAD

I was worried that he'd just download a few things off Thingiverse and then it would collect dust in the corner of a room, the guy's 62, a retired electrical engineer and he took to CAD like a duck to water. His first design was a skeletal tablet stand, designed to be printed without supports and it came out perfectly. One of his daughters is a civil engineer so, naturally, anything he designs is getting pretty brutally scrutinised.

>>1077666

Thats great it went to a good home. And a good way to keep his mind active in his "golden years"

I never realised you were so sentimental, Satan

>>1077666
Thats a nice story and all, but I cant imagine giving one of my printers away.

You can be so versatile with more than one printer, giving each one a specialized role.
If nothing else it be backup for if your new one breaks down

Any suggetions / opinions regarding self build SLA/DLP printers?
Any downsides to consider compared to the standard DPM printers?

>>1077339
I can recommend this, yeah.

>>1077350
Probably me. I haven't gotten the MK2 but can vouch for my MK1, which I think is still sold as a kit but not assembled.

>>1077373
>>1077372
Same, I'd love to hear if the upgrade is worth it or if I should stick with mine.

>>1077376
They're Czech, so it's debatable but possible.

>>1077723
I'm kind of split. I'm not opposed to giving my old printer away, but it's a 4 year old badly calibrated/working PrintrbotLC - I guess it works, but the bottom layers are ugly and it's probably not very accurate.

>>1077741
>Any suggetions / opinions regarding self build SLA/DLP printers?
check out the buildyourownsla forum
>Any downsides to consider compared to the standard DPM printers?
Resin handling is a mess.
There is a different set of problems like adhesion to the vat floor for bottom-up designs and inconsistent layer height for top-down. Then there is light bleed to worry about and in my case random uncured holes likely related to bubbles. I often end up using my FDM machine instead.

>>1077376
>>1077762
>They're Czech, so it's debatable but possible
This. Black Friday is mostly a US thing, but become more international - especially with online shopping

>>1077741
you definitely want to use http://www.nanodlp.com/ to control it
the concept of your printer acting as a server and accessing it from any browser without having to install additional software is just awesome

so i finished my first big print recently and i had to make extensive use of supports
the piece is very detailed (like relief sculpted into stone, lots of overhangs)


is there anything to removing supports or do i just get cracking?
also, are there any settings i can change to make the supports weaker/easier to remove?
i think on my next prints i might reduce support line width, i guess


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnpEfRWqDKU

>>1077383
And once you got an image, openscad can extrude that shape for you (see surface command) ;-)

>>1078563
I just crack em, and then use an exacto blade to cut the remaining stuff.

Weakening and reducing supports is all done within settings of your slicer (assuming you used your slicer to automatically add supports)
Some slicers work better than others.

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Should I blame for curling my printer, my filament or both?
(stock picture related)

>>1078598
Print settings

>>1078598
Not enough cooling/layer height settings fucked up

>>1078620
or it could be too much cooling

http://hackaday.com/2016/11/03/variable-thickness-slicing-for-3d-printers/

>>1079459

I saw this earlier, looks like an interesting solution. Would love to see this as an option in Slic3r

>>1079540
http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/variable-layer-height

http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-lincolnshire-37859495
>A fire which killed a 17-year-old was caused by hair spray being used with a 3D printer, an inquest has found.

F

>>1079608
>using hairspray instead of purple gluestick

>>1079608
>>1079612
>not properly ventilating the area
Come on. Seriously?

>>1079613
I actually print in a closed closet with a small filtration fan
Not sure why it would need real ventilation though. ive got a webcam, fire alarm, and a thermometer in there.

It got around 80F in there tonight.

>>1079608
>hair spray
did he use the whole damn can?
ABS will make you do the craziest things

>>1079608
>Fire chiefs have also warned of the danger of using online tutorials, which are not regulated.

Imagine the fire chiefs suprise when he found out the printer itself is a bunch of slapped together threaded rod and dirt cheap chinese electronics, heating itself up over 200c

>>1079620
>a bunch of slapped together threaded rod and dirt cheap chinese electronics
>heating itself up over 200c
ban it

>>1079540
It already is.

>>1079608
according to this article ( http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/11/03/teenage-boy-killed-in-3d-printer-explosion-during-school-art-pro/ ):
- he used THREE canisters of hairspray
- cheap ebay printer
- at first gases ignited, but then fire also ignited flammable flash paper (magic stuff), which was incorrectly stored under the printer

Not really a 3d printer's fault imo, but still F.

>>1079603
>>1079633

Oh, I'd never spotted that before. Will have a play around this weekend

>>1079633
>>1079686
It's not automatic and based off of slope like the algorithm is, though.

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>>1076806
I tried with drooloops, but it didn't work as I wanted.

>>1079686
I played with that feature a while ago, But if I remember correctly there was a problem, that when you lowered layer height also the infill density changed (even though it was at the same % all the time). Does this still happen?

>>1079815
What are you using to paint your racist frog so nicely?

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I've just found the perfect way to release prints without any effort on my part. I'm using a borosilicate glass bed so it might be risky to try this with a soda glass bed.

Essentially, you print with the bed heated to 60C then transfer immediately to a fan, I use this Honeywell fan because the front is flat and it can be pointed vertically upwards, two of the corners rest on the inside of the lip and a small printed stand holds it at an angle to allow decent airflow. Within 5 minutes the parts usually come off of their own accord or, at worst, pop off with a gentle tap. I've tried letting the bed cool slowly with the same part but it seems like shock cooling is the answer.

I'm thinking of putting together a thermoelectrically cooled pad for the build plate to sit on after printing to cause even faster cooling.

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>>1080082
It isn't painted that nicely. I got some green on his hair and some black on his eyelids.
I just used permanent markers, because I don't have any other suitable paint. I don't paint my prints usually. I even don't have any white paint to colour his eyes.

>>1080083
That normally happens on its own or at most with very minimal effort for me even with just slow cooling

>>1080104
>It isn't painted that nicely

The blur helped hide it in the first picture. I rather like the mottled appearance of the skin.

>>1079815
>>1080104

How did you get the hair so nice and hairy?

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>>1080238
Bridging each hair to a sacrificial wall. Then you cut them and shape them with heat gun. It is a bit tricky to shape them. They sag due to gravity when they are heated, which can cause problems, but you can also use it in your advantage if you orient part in the way that gravity helps you shape the hair as you want. Strands also like to stick to each other and when they do is hard to separate them without messing everything up. And they also like to curl a bit, but this could be because it is ABS.
That is why hair doesn't have a perfect shape, but is good enough.

>>1080466
That's an insane level of ingenuity.

>>1080466
>>1080499

Damn, that is some clever thinking. Doubt I'd manage to get brodges that long out of my printer at the moment

I am trying to merge 2 stl files. I am using Meshmixer. I tried Boolean Union, but it says Level1 - Refining... And it has been that way for last 3 hours. If anybody know meshmixer, is it normal that this function takes so long?
Is there any other program that can merge 2 stl files?

>>1080507
I know my printer would never make a bridge like that.
But lucky you wouldnt actually need to successfully bridge for this.

>>1081631
iirc, i was able to do that with 123d design
haven't used it in a while, but i'm sure it does it

>>1081648
>>1081631

forgot to say, i think all you'd have to do with 123d design is load up the stl files, arrange them how you want them to be merged and then export as stl

>>1081631
Can you post a picture of what you are trying to achieve? Yes, meshmixer freezes every now and then and you can't say if its calculating or just not responding.

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>>1081668
This is it. It has been that way for about 6 hours.
In Windows Task Manager it says that it is Running
(When for example Solidworks crashes it usually says Not Responding (Sometimes it says that even though it didn't crash.) )

>>1081649
Thanks, I will try that tomorrow.

>>1080507
>>1081633
If it droops, than you need more fan. But a small droop shouldn't be a problem, as long as all bridges droop the same imo. The problem would be If bridges don't get across. Generally my bridges were fine, but I still got some loose strands, incomplete bridges, drooloops,... I just removed them before shaping it with heat gun

I have a lulzbot taz 5, should the powersupply cooling fan blow outside air into the psu box or should it vaccum it out?
Currently it is set to vacuum out the psu enclosure.

>>1081689
You arent going to notice a difference in a negative or positive pressure setup.
Its fine the way it is

>>1081675
Repair both files and retry. If its not working reduce the mesh in lion and retry. If you ran out of RAM during the process swap is so slow that it can take ages with large files. I've worked with very large mesh files and the longest calculation times has been just couple of hours. That boolean shouldn't take more than few minutes. You can also try that in blender it works sometimes better than meshmixer with booleans (It is still shitty though)

Idiot noob here, what is a boolean operation in regards to 3d modelling?

>>1081972
First hit in google
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEMNv4mze3Q

>>1082060

Makes sense I suppose. Just cofused, as im learning FreeCAD, and it already has union/cut/intersection tools alongside the boolean operation tool.

Is there any notable difference between these? The FreeCAD wiki is a bit of a mess in that regard

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>>1081675
>>1081731
A little update: I tried 123d design. It says that meshes are not closed. I go back to Meshmixer to repair both files. One file is not able to repair no matter how much I try. That is the file I created in Solidworks, so I go back to Solidworks to modify part, to avoid this kind of errors.
Back to Meshmixer. Both files are closed. I try boolean union. Again it's stuck at the same point as before. I give up and start reducing mesh. I reduced mesh for 90% but it still look decent. ok. Boolean union. It looks like it is doing something. After a while it finishes, but there is a lot of holes in the object. I try to tweak some parameters, no improvement and hours are going by. I give up and click Accept, maybe I can repair it somehow later. Get pic related. Fuck. I try 123d design. After a while there is no spinning circle when I hover mouse over the window. Is it done? Click on the window and it disappears. Try again, same result. Fuck.
Not to worry. Next one is Openscad. I have no idea what I am doing. Get some error (ERROR: CGAL error in CGALUtils::applyBinaryOperator union: CGAL ERROR: assertion violation! ...)
But somehow I find out that you can also import STL in Solidworks! What? How have I never heard about this before? So after almost 2 hours it manages to combine those two files together.

tl;dr: It took me 3 whole days to combine 2 files together.

>>1082596
>But somehow I find out that you can also import STL in Solidworks! What? How have I never heard about this before?

That's a good question, since pretty much ANY sort of 3D modelling/CAD program will accept STL.

>>1082596
Post the result.

My 10th generation tronxy prusa i3 shits itself when I try to heat the bed, I can't really pinpoint the source of the problem.


Whenever I try to preheat the bed, or send a job to the printer, it heats up normally, maybe 5°C or 10°C, then, the bed temperature reading shoots from a normal temperature, like 40°C, to 750°C or so in <1 sec, it stays there for less than a second and comes back to 40°C, then the printer throws the following error:

>Err: MAXTEMP BED
From there I have to unplug my printer and start the heating process again, otherwise, it just stops heating the extruder and bed.

Strangely enough, this issue happens more commonly when the bed is at room temperature, if it's >50°C, sometimes it has no problem reaching 65°C without throwing an error.


At the moment this issue is driving me crazy, since I would have to spend ~30 minutes alone heating up the bed in 2, or 5 °C increments

Should I simply replace the thermistor/sensor on the bed and hope for the best? I inspected the cables coming from the main board and they seem OK, I wiggled them right where the bed makes contact with the sensor and it didn't help.

Sorry if I made this post longer than it should be

>>1082728
It sounds like a fucky thermistor to me, I would replace it.

I would NOT turn off the maxtemp bed failsafe.
You dont want a runaway heated bed due to a failed thermistor.

Your failsafe software is working correctly.

>>1082743
Thanks, I did think of disabling the maxtemp bed failsafe just for a test, fortunately I couldn't find that option in the menu of the printer, I guess there's no point in risking the heated bed for a part that can be replaced very cheaply.

>>1082753
>fortunately I couldn't find that option in the menu of the printer,

Its done at the firmware level of your Ramps/Arduino.

Im not sure how hot a heated bed can theoretically get, but I know that runaway heater cartridges get hot enough to melt aluminum. I cant seem to find the pic, but someone had an all metal hotend with a runaway heater cartridge and it melted the whole heater block.
A dislodged heater cartridge or hotend that has melted down is how 3d printers catch fire and burn houses down.

Bed maybe not so, but could still be dangerous

>>1082766
Found it, you can see how hot the cartridges can get.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVjWg2vuWzk

Just bought a cheap delta printer from aliexpress during their sale a few hours ago
unfortunately it comes with a 8bit board, what is the easiest/cheapest way to convert it to 32bit
I was thinking about connecting an old RAMPS board I've got laying around to a generic 32bit dev-board running smoothieware
any recommendations on cheap smoothie compatible boards?

>>1082867
this guide http://smoothieware.org/smoothie-on-a-breadboard makes it look pretty straightforward
only difference is that I'll use ribbon cables connected to a ramps instead of the breadboard
how badly will I fuck this up, what am I missing, given that i've got almost no experience working with microcontrollers?

>>1082596
>>1082598
Not sure about Solidworks but I know with Inventor it can import an STL but it can't be modified. One workaround I use is to convert it into an SAT file then bring it into inventor. That said, it's a huge pain in the ass.

>>1082888
>>1082867
Why do you want to run smoothieware over marlin?

Couldnt you just buy a cheap smoothieboard clone?

If you really wanted 32 bit for cheap, DRV8825 on a ramps.
Though you wont see a tangible difference in print quality from 8 bit to 32. I have DRV8825s on my ramps

>>1082914
if you are willing to spend industrial money/can get a student license
ANSYS spaceclaim is king when it comes to quick and easy mesh file manipulation
http://www.ansys.com/products/platform/ansys-spaceclaim

>>1082917
>Why do you want to run smoothieware over marlin?
>If you really wanted 32 bit for cheap, DRV8825 on a ramps.
you maybe misinterpreted my post I'm not looking for 32bit microstepping but a 32bit processor
delta printers greatly profit from the increased processing power since the mathematics to position them accurately are more complex than in cartesian systems
8bit boards just can't keep up at high speeds and you'll get worse resolution/accuracy especially at the edges of your buildspace

>Couldnt you just buy a cheap smoothieboard clone?
sure but the cheapest ones are $50 vs $25 for a devboard (already got ramps and drivers)
and they also have soldered on stepperdrivers so they are non upgradeable and a huge pita if i should kill one

>>1082921
Ah my bad. My mind went directly to stepping because everyone loves to complain about stepper noises.

Maybe someone else would be a better help

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>>1082919
Spaceclaim looks like it might work well, but the student license with the 3d package is ~$100. For me the money might be better spent on a Simplify 3d license. My way works well enough (pic related for example), it's just tedious.

>>1082919
>>1082986
https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-download-and-installation
This is the free version of spaceclaim with limited functionality.
Fusion 360 can be for free too.

I'm building a 3d printer from scratch.
What gauge wire would be best to run to the hotend, and the bed? I need to go buy a few spools, all my wire is 22 gauge and up. 18 or 16 gauge ok?

its a 12"x12" pcb bed on a 12v powersupply. People are trying to sell me on speakerwire, but seems retarded, being around heat an all.
I could be totally wrong, idk I'm not much of an electrician.

Right now its a generic chinashit extruder i pulled form a previous printer. Works well but nothing to write home about.

Have a spare E3dLite6 and plan on getting a titan and bltouch one day. Volcano worth it too? Its a big printer, so plan on using it for engineering prototypes. Sick of ordering parts from custom fab sites.

>>1075801
I have that exact same saw, and that exact same problem.

>>1083235
What wires do you need for a hotend?
The heater cartridge should have its own wires.

As for what gauge, I personally have 14 AWG from bed -> ramps, and from PSU -> ramps.

I was one of the few who had their Ramps terminals burn up because the wire gauge was too small.

>>1083239
heater cart just needs longer wires to reach the board.

I'll go for 14 AWG then, better too thick than too thin.

>>1083235
don't run your hotbed on low voltage DC,
the high currents you need to get any reasonable amount of power are a huge fire hazard,
see >>1083239
>Ramps terminals burn up
run your hotbed on mains power controlled by a SSR, this is not only safer but also more energy efficient
since you don't have the losses from a power supply

also use 24V for your steppers and heater cartridge,
you'll get quicker movements and thinner more flexible wires to your hotend,
also less losses in your wiring

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Until today, I had volume issues with my prusa clone. It would shake the house down, and even over the TV I'd hear the constant drone of it vibrating away.

People mentioned placing a foam mat under the printer to keep it quiet. I didnt think it would make much difference, but I picked up some kids foam play mats, placed one underneath, and the difference is insane.

This machine is now an order of magnitude quieter than it was before.

Mucho recommendo

My NEMA 17 for the extruder is making a very weird noise, like "wi-wi-wi-wi-wi-wi-wi-wi..." constantly, and when it stops extruding makes another continous noise...but I don't see anything weird with the overall performace of that NEMA.

Also, I put my 2 Z axis NEMA on 0.40 miliamps and they only make more noise, is it adviceable to lower the amps or is just fine as it is?

>>1083328
Whining probably means you are running them really hard.

What kind of stepper drivers are you using?

A currents differs on different stepsticks
A DRV8825 is current limit = Vref x 2

So your mulitmeter reads .40 you are running at .8a

An A4988s current limit is Vref x 2.5
So .40 would be a whole 1a.

You need to look at your steppers amp ratings and decide how strongly you are going to drive them.
The stronger you drive them, the more powerful they will be but the hotter they will run.

You put in too much power it will overheat and miss steps.
With that said you dont give it enough power it will also miss steps.
Its a balance of heat and power.

I think I have my steppers running at ~60% of their max rating.
With that said they are decent 84oz, 2a rated steppers. I dont need to drive them hard

>>1083803
I use A4988s so... well, back to calibration.

Thanks.

I was thinking about getting an expansion kit for my prusa here.

https://www.moebyus.com/partes-filamento/mecanica/kit-ampliacion-de-cama-metacrilato-detail

Ignoring the indigenouspeak this is what includes(for 90 euros)

>200x300 heatbed MK2 with thermistor included and wiring.
>10mm methacrylate support for heatbed
>2 O8 smooth rods of 435mm
>2 O10 crewed rods of 470mm
>4 LM8UU
>1 solid state relay.
>1 meter of MK2 belt
>1 meter of 2 conducting cables.

Or I could try to transition from a prusa i3 to a SIRIUS with what I already have and just buying the structure, new rods, new heatbed and heatbed support. But idk if I should get new printed parts for a complete transition, and although I haven't made the exact calculations the estructure is around 85 euros and the heatbed 65 so I can count that it would be 200-250 euros if the things listed are the only things required.

Which one would you recomend?

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I'm thinking of building a Prusa i3 Rework from scratch buying my own parts. How accurate is this wiki?
http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Bill_of_materials
I've got limited knowledge but it all seems pretty cheap except the hotend.
I was thinking of laser cutting some 6mm ply as it's probably available at my uni and free to use, this requires two extra stands I've seen on some videos I think, pic related.
Any advice?

>>1083995
Plywood frame sounds a bit weak but then again the stresses aren't that massive; I've built mine from 2020 alu profiles. The downside is that mine required all custom parts that I had to cut on a CNC, couldn't just order a set of prusa plastic parts, but that was largely because I also used openrail V slot style rails instead of 8mm steel rods, and 12mm trapezoid threaded rods plus 12mm steel rods for Z axis (only real reason behind that was that I had them laying around). V slot rails are a lot quieter than rods, but then they have their own set of problems.
I bought a cheap chink e3d knockoff hotend for under $10 and it's working fine. Supposedly it's a bit of a gamble as some of them are shit and end up jamming, but mine has been working fine. I planned my printer for 24V instead of 12V straight off and it proved to be a good decision because I can push the heated bed a lot more, though the chinkshit RAMPS' bed mosfet ended up failing when I was running the bed at around 180W, I just replaced it with a better one for now. Eventually might just switch to a relay.

>>1084027
What's the MOSFET?
There's an extra support with the plywood that's supposedly to stengthen it, I have access to some CNCs but it'll be difficult to produce the frame shape for the i3 a it's all sharp corners. Do you also mean you produced the printed parts on a CNC? There are so many I'd probably rather spend the ~£25 to get them off ebay. This would be the first printer I've made so I'm gonna keep it vanilla.

Looking to get a fdm printer kit with budget of around 400 euros. So far I have been considering ordering some delta from AliExpress but then I would get robbed at the customs. Probably not worth it. Unless maybe I can get them to send everything in separate packages?
Have you got any ideas on how to get a decent printer with my budget? Should I try sourcing parts one by one and build my own Reprap? I (I have access to printers and a laser cutter) Are there any decently priced shops in Europe for kits/parts that you can recommend?

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Anyone else have problems with their heated bed as such?:

It has a hell of a time getting to the set temp when it's set above 70. It can get up to one degree under the target temp, and then it drops 5 degrees, goes back up 5, drops 6, goes up 4 etc etc... but when it finally hits the target temp (40 minutes later) it has no problem maintaining it.

I originally had it at 90, and then set it to 80 and the exact same thing happens. I've tried altering the PID values using this: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning as a reference but I feel like everything I do just makes it worse. Any advice would be appreciated!

>>1084028
MOSFETs are transistors on the RAMPS board that switch the power to the bed and the extruder heater. And yeah, I produced alternatives to the printer parts on a CNC, from HDPE, but I replaced most of them when I got the printer to work, they were only meant to be temporary.
>>1084064
I sourced the parts one by one and built my own, the total costs were just over 200 euros, no customs to pay. I ordered everything from china, the only issue I ran into was that some of the steppers had slightly misaligned shafts. This isn't something that would ruin regular prints, but it might be better to buy the steppers locally if you want to make sure that precision is as good as it can be.

>>1084211
Have you also sourced your 2020 from China?

>>1084226
Nah, that and the filament were cheaper to buy in Europe, motedis.com. They have expensive shipping, some 15 euros, but the profiles themselves are the cheapest I could find by a long shot. They also have very cheap filament, but in the long run it's not worth ordering from them because of the shipping, I just got one roll with the extrusion order.

>>1084137
Consider using bang-bang temperature control for the bed rather than PID; I find it works better for me. Failing that, you can try modifying the PID parameters manually as per:
http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

>>1084064
The prusa kit by josef prusa is the only kit I can recommend. If you want to go cheaper then it might be best to source your parts as the other anon said.

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>>1075618
hey guys why are my prints looking like tshit, iprinted something solid after this , still looks like shit. is it because i used inland filament? original filament didnt comeout like this!

>>1084613

Have you changed cooling/temps for the new filament? Not all filaments melt the same, looks like you need a little more heat in your hot-end to get the layers to stick better

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I am printing 60 small trump heads to place all around my school

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>>1082620
Here are the results. This was the original: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1249096

>>1082598
I don't know how is that possible. It is like I had woken up in different timeline. I had googled how to import stl in solidworks, although it was a while ago. Maybe that was not the option at the time and is only available in newer versions. The way that i found at that time was to use ScanTo3D add-in, which doesn't give good results, because it resurface the whole object, which takes a long time, leaves some holes and destroys some details.

>>1082914
This "new" way allows you to import STL as solid body and you can cut it, mirror it, combine it,... The same as if you would import STEP file.

>>1082598
choose "import as solid" from the options prompt after selecting the .STL file type in the Open File dialog

>>1085091
Oh wow that's neat

>>1085091
>>1085074
there ought to be a trump head with glorious comb over now

>>1084064
Check Wanhao i3 v2.1 (They sell them at 3D Prima in EU) and Malyan M150 at Hobbyking.com (This is a wanhao i3 v1 clone, I think). As far as I know they work quite well. They are also pretty much fully assembled. For a newbie I wouldn't suggest building from scratch. It really depends how much you know.

>>1084211
What do you mean misaligned shafts? And thanks for that store link. It might be useful.

>>1085501
The shaft of the stepper is at an angle, maybe it's bent somewhere, I don't know, but the point is that it's not an exact 90 degree to the front surface of the motor, but maybe some 87. This makes your leadscrew move around as it rotates, messing with the height.

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My supplier has very kindly added a small sample of Fillamentum AF80, a nylon-aramid blend to an order arriving tomorrow. I normally print a hexagonal bar with a 30% honeycomb fill to test new materials, does anyone have a go-to test print they use to assess the physical properties new materials that's a little more nuanced than bending the shit out of a hex bar? I use Marvin to test printability.

>>1085541
Remember not to use it with a brass nozzle.

>>1085563
Isn't that for carbon fibre blends? Fillamentum make that warning for their CF15 nylon-carbon fibre blend but notably not for their regular nylon blend (it's not pure nylon, it's a low temperature blend) or for the AF80 aramid-nylon blend. It makes sense to me, carbon fibre, particularly nanoparticles, is very abrasive while aramids are comparatively soft, this also bears out in the final product, aramid composites are significantly more flexible than carbon fibre composites with only fractional differences in tensile strength.

>>1085611
You were correct. For some reason I thought that this is abrasive too.

>They also are not harmfully abrasive, making this material a great alternative for printers that cannot be equipped with a hardened steel nozzle.

http://hackaday.com/2016/09/15/3d-printering-aramid-carbon-fiber-infused-abs-filaments-by-nanovia-review/

>>1085628
Thanks for the confirmation. I actually have a full metal hotend kit with coated steel nozzles sitting ready to go but I'm not yet comfortable dismantling my printer that much.

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>>1077144
>>1077168
alright, so i bought a purple glue stick and elmers xtreme stick and bottle (the stick is what i hear that Tom Sadlad guy uses)

for glue sticks, you just wipe on a thin layer yeah?
this guy dissolves his in water
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mBVws5DsWg

>>1077286
i see

i really think im having a bit of power problems already on my stock PSU
at the start of a print, occasionally, the extruder stepper will skip/click
also, the temperature for the bed and hotend freeze up for almost a minute and i see buffer errors in repetier, so possibly power issues? 10A just doesn't sound like enough, even for my small printer (monoprice select mini)


i'm also considering doing this
>>1083305
but with a mosfet circuit
should work even if my printer isn't an ultimaker, right? as long as the mosfet can be reliably switched and whatever connections are wired properly (something about crossing grounds)?
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-heated-bed-mosfet-relay-hack-v2

>pic related

>>1085825
I just put on a thin layer. Not the best because it'll sometimes show up on the print, but close enough.

>>1085825
>pic related
I don't see why you insist on running your hotbed on low voltage DC and not mains AC,
connecting a SSR to your controller would be a lot simpler than pic related,
you'd save the cost and inefficiency of an additional power supply and avoid the fire hazard of >10A currents

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>>1085852
you're talking about heater pads that run on (110v) AC?

my current heated bed looks like pic (runs on dc though, iirc)


>simpler
>you'd save the cost and inefficiency of an additional power supply
i have a switching psu here going unused here already, though
>avoid the fire hazard of >10A currents
makes sense
i guess that's next on my to do/to buy list then, thanks


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiEwNf1H_Tc

>>1085868
>you're talking about heater pads that run on (110v) AC?
yes

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiEwNf1H_Tc
this is the only proper way to do a heated bed in 2k16 desu
mains powered silicone heatpad controlled by a SSR

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>>1085143
I tried to make Trump's hair with pepe >>1080104
But I really don't understand trump's hair. I was looking at pictures and I couldn't figure it out exactly. And it also is not that easy to shape the hair. So at the end it looks more like Geert Wilders.

>not having fusion 360 listed in op

It's free for enthusiasts and any small business making less than 100k annually

It's also much better than half the shit listed

>>1086043
The OP wont even name the thread correctly, even when people have asked him to.
What makes you think he is going to modify the copypasta that hasnt changed in a year?

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thoughts on the Wanhao i3 V2 Duplicator.
purchased one for my 14 yearold son for a Christmas present.

how badly have i fucked up?
am i a bad father?

please don't regurgitate anything i can find within 10 seconds on google, cheers.

>>1086301
I was thinking of buying one for Christmas too. They seem like a great deal and only minor improvements made to the news version.
Is there any reason not to get this 3D printer?

>>1086301
I have one. It's a fun project. I feel like I've replaced half of it. Definitely the best printer at it's price range, but to get it printing really well, there are a few mods people recommend.

>>1086319
>Is there any reason not to get this 3D printer?
You can spend more money to get a better printer. Better printer is less hassle. But of course you'd have to spend more money.

There's so many recommended changes like Z-braces, glass plate, metal extruder, compared to something like the Prusa i3 mk2 that is 100% out of the box.

Still the best for that price though.

>>1086319
>>1086301
There is nothing wrong with the printer

Just be ready for a hobby that has a very very steep learning curve, thats expensive, and the results arent all that great.

If you dont go balls deep, itll end up sitting in a closet because its too much of a pain in the ass to master.

>>1086324
Z braces are unnecessary and in many cases introduce banding in an I3 design. They can help out the rigidity of an acrylic printer, but thats not needed with the boxed steel wanhao.

Maybe the official Prusa which doesnt have a metal frame benefits from it too. Who knows.

The official Prusa kit is ok, but its pretty expensive for what you get.

You dont get metal frame, you dont get hardened rods, you dont get high quality bearings, its a proprietary heat bed, you dont get a full graphic LCD, you get the same old shit PSU, you get meh tier steppers.

If you would price out a top tier I3 yourself in the 700$ range, you could have all that and more.

Instead you are paying out the ass for a full metal E3D, for "real" electronics", and for Prusas leveling and calibration files. Ignore the corners cut on the rest of the printer becuase they will work ok too. You could get a printer that works "ok" for a whole lot less money.

I dont fault people wanting to support him, but its not a bang for buck printer at all.

An E3D lite is easier to use and doesnt require active cooling like a full metal E3DV6.
The high end electronics that work no better than cheap clones have no bearing on end print quality.
Getting a reprap printer kit under the guise of "its plug and play" is a fucking joke and will make it much harder in the long run when they dont learn fundamentals of their printer using autoleveling.

And the auto leveling itself is terrible on an I3. Its a bottleneck to your speed because it causes you to overwork your Z axis and causes more vibration. The I3 wasnt designed to move the Z axis during XY movements originally.

Its not a significantly higher printer and it wont have better prints, even though it costs more than 50% more money.

>>1086332
Z braces are helpful because the vertical frame is only held to the base by a few screws, which aren't going to stop the thing from moving. I would not want to pick up the printer from the top without the z brace mod.

An e3d lite doesn't require as much active cooling, but I wouldn't want to use it without it. Most hotend designs don't passively get rid of heat enough to prevent heat creep.

I will agree the electronics don't seem that good compared to a standard RAMPS. And why the fuck does it not have the full graphic display which is only slightly more expensive.

But overall it's still a kit and some people don't want to deal with selfsourcing everything, and the only comparable kit I think would be the RepRap Wilson II. Which I might like better actually with it's extrusion frame and the guy's custom PICA board.

What programrs do you use for your 3d printer and why?(and of course, include the 3d printer you use asuming you have just 1)

I've been trying to make one of those cheap-ish filament extruders, something along the lines of http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-your-own-3d-printing-filament-factory-Filame/

Since ABS is relatively difficult to print and PLA is very difficult to source where I live, I've decided to try going for either PET or PETG. I managed to procure some 30kg of PET regranulate and about 20kg of PETG regrind. Things that I've learned:
>it's very hard to source plastic if you want less than a metric ton
>but you can lie about only wanting a sample, nobody cares about sub-50kg amounts
>PET is completely unsuitable for this kind of extruder, you need to extrude it vertically and directly into water
>these car wiper motors are just-barely strong enough for a 16mm screw to run more or less consistently when extruding pellets
>they're definitely not strong enough to work with regrind flakes, which frequently get stuck and need to be cut through
In light of this, I changed plans and will try to get a single-phase AC motor around 300-500W that is geared down to ~70RPM, as per the precious plastics extruder. I'll change the support, swap to a larger auger bit, depending on what size of steel tube I can find that matches precisely, so as to have an easier time with PETG flakes (flakes are again easier to source, or rather, you can only source flakes here). I'll probably design the whole line around vertical extrusion, but the tube and the motor will be horizontal, I'll just add a 90 degree turn near the extruder and another heating element after the turn.

Oddly enough, the only project I managed to find where people actually tried to extrude PET filament is https://www.wevolver.com/matthew.rogge/thunderhead-filament-extruder/main/description/

>>1086464
cool stuff. post pics.
Did you consider making 3D printer with direct extrusion from granulate instead of making a filament? Wouldn't that be easier and cheaper?

>>1086490
It looks almost the exact same as the one in instructables, just with a bigger mess around it. I welded the tube instead of using all kinds of screw-on crap, but that was about the only major change. I'll post pictures once I get around to sourcing all the shit for the second version, but it's gonna be a while.

I saw some people doing that direct extrusion but I don't think it's a great idea. Compared to filament, feeding granulate is a lot more inconsistent, you also need a lot of power to turn the auger, which means the whole assembly is going to be heavy and yet it's still not going to be powerful enough to work as reliably as filament extrusion. I'd prefer to have the printers remain their own thing and doing what they were meant to do, instead of adding yet another layer of complexity and source of problems.

>>1086494
I was thinking that if you can extrude a filament with more or less consistent diameter you should also be able to extrude consistent lines for 3d printing. Of course the table would move in x, y and z direction, so the extruder can be as big/heavy as it needs to be. A potential problem could be start/stop and retraction, but something like spiral vase should work imo.

Something to think about, if filament extrusion doesn't work out.

>>1086499
Thing is that for extrusion you need a ton of shit to make it consistent, pullers, coolers, sensors, industrial machines have multizone temperature control and special screws even, plus as I said motor power is a big issue. On these small machines, people are super happy if they get +-.15 accuracy, the typical filament is .05 (though rated .1). Overflow would inevitably be bigger since you need larger heat chambers. I don't see it as worth all the bother, unless you are doing 3D printing as a service and have printers running all the time. If I manage to make good enough filament, I'll probably offer it for sale to offset the costs of the machine - there's no such opportunity if you build a printer that uses pellets. You might be able to sell the printer I guess, but I wouldn't count on that.

>>1086026
Image saved for future glory. MNGA.

>>1086513
I hope you bought $MNGA
We are going on a fucking moon mission

>>1086324
thanks, from what i've read online i'm expecting to replace several bits and already have a folder filled with replacement part files ready to be printed up.

>>1086325
previous hobbies include r/c helicopters and photography, so yeah i'm ready for the head scratching and money pit parts.

>>1086332
not entirely sure exactly what you've said there, could you repost but say the same thing in simpler terms for someone who is a complete noob to 3d printing? thanks

or could someone else simplfy for me?

>>1086674
My post was just a bunch of nitpicking. Its not a big deal.

Youll be fine with any number of kits out there.

>>1083236
I can give you the files if you want them
they arent at all perfect, but they worked OK Like the screw hole was off so I ovaled it out.

I have a Prusa Mendel that has seen constant use since early 2012 or so.

I was considering rebuilding it and I was wondering if it would be better to just order a i3 frame and do an upgrade.

What do you guys think?

>>1086729

http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Samuel

Maybe? Don't need a new frame.

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I built an enclosure for my printer to keep the heat, fumes, and particles in.

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>>1086840
The glass bed helps with adhesion, but I'm starting to notice bowing in the middle where there wasn't before. Would changing the pattern of the silicone pads help prevent bowing?

This is the 4th time my i3 has eaten another RAMPS+arduino.

I was doing literally nothing, letting the printer doing the prints, when suddenly something starts burning and then the electronics just stops to be even recognized.

It usually ends with the arduino flashing the TX and RX in either yellow or red, and I most certainly don't know whats going wrong here.

Its just so frustrating.

Any good black friday deals to watch out for?

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>>1086873
I keep blowing up my Arduino Mega's voltage regulator. The symptoms are that the LCD screen is super bright and the text is washed out and you can barely read it, but it'll work fine if you power it through the USB 5V and rip out the voltage regulator. On the robotdyn megas, the voltage regulator is completely destroyed, and will only take 5V power. I've just ordered some new voltage regulators on Aliexpress to try fix them up and so I don't have to spend more money on MEGAs.

>>1086879
I had this happen, LCD was white and unreadable.

It happened to me because my endstop was wired backwards. I homed it and heard a loud pop

>>1086887
Yep that's what I did the first time. Another time was me accidentally missing when putting on the stepper motor driver. Not sure how I broke the rest of them, but I'm sure it was me being stupid.

>>1086879

Well, I guess that as soon as I can get new bateries for my tester to check the voltage regulator I will get some lm7805 to see if I can stop spending 25 euros each month.

Thanks.

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So it's not really /3dpg/ but it kind of is. I'm planning out pic related for a future CNC build. I got some amazing linear bearings out of some biotech gear and it prompted me to get my ass into gear and make a machine.

Mechanically it's good to go, I can easily source what hardware I don't have and electronically I have a good idea of how I'm going to control motors and get feedback from the device. Now comes the time to choose a uC, but that hinges on the part I have been putting off, stepper selection, which I know dick all about. All I really know of steppers is the finer the step angle the better, and as big as you can fit. But I worry about accuracy, pulley gearing ratios etc, and how it all fits together, especially when it comes time to program the controller.

Is there more to stepper selection? And do libraries for stepper control allow you to set your "drive ratios", so, for example, it knows 100 steps in a given direction on servo A always equals 5mm, but on servo B only 45 steps gives 5mm? I guess the whole calibrating-controller-to-pulley-and-gear-ratio-fuckery process escapes me.

How do you guys do it when your scratchbuilding machines?

>>1086928
While belts are fine for 3D printers you should realy reconsider using them if you want to machine stuff.

Hey /3dpg/

Looking for a new printer for my firm.
>structural engineering
>used to print small models / parts of connections to fit together.

budget is limited - up to an absolute maximum of £1350 (budget isn't set by me)

Anyway, a few years ago I built a prusa i3 hephestos - was ok, but print quality wasn't great and it took a lot of tweaking.

have things improved with the self builds?

If not, anyone have any decent workhorse printers for a price within the £1350 budget?

Thanks in advance.

>>1086928
>do libraries for stepper control allow you to set your "drive ratios", so, for example, it knows 100 steps in a given direction on servo A always equals 5mm, but on servo B only 45 steps gives 5mm?

Yeah
I know that for a standard reprap using Marlin firmware that you set your "steps" within the firmware. And you can temporarily change them using the LCD.

You routinely have to change them if you mess around with extruder changes, with different gearing or gears.

There is a calculator in here that gives you "steps per mm" which any controller should be able to use.

http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/

>>1087019
>have things improved with the self builds?

Not really
I bought my first kit printer about 3 years ago, and nothing at all has really changed except stuff has gotten cheaper.

Scratch and kit built printers are as good as its builder and operator, and its still far from plug and play.

For small parts and connectors, youll probably be better off with an resin based SLA printer instead of an FDM printer.

I would search and see what kind of SLA printers you can find in your price range.

>>1086824
>http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Samuel

Looks interesting...the frame thing was to gain rigidity on the X-Z axis

>>1087056
Not necessarily small parts that need to fix together. (Although that would be handy)

I'd be printing models of fully assembled steel connections etc.

We'd also use it to show off structural skeletons of proposed structures that we design basically as a rapid prototyping for buildings.

I've only ever used FDM printers, am I to take it that SLA is better for fiddly stuff, but is lacking in the stuff that FDM is good at?

Are the strength properties any good?

Is there a way to import print settings from g-code to Cura/Slic3r?

>>1087169
I havent used either in a long time
Doesnt Cura have an "import settings from Gcode" setting? Im pretty sure it only works with gcode made with cura in the first place though

>>1087169
Open the g-code with a text editor and check if the settings are written there as comments.

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>>1086954
I see your point and am aware of the limits of belts, but the primary use of this machine will be cutting ply and medium duty timber sheet (up to maybe 12mm) and plastics. I have a larger format leadscrew driven machine on the books for metal and full milling, but they will both serve different purposes. For what I'm wanting of it and the nature of the machine (built from 80 odd percent reclaimed scrap parts) this level of accuracy will be more than adequate.

>>1087051
I suspected (hoped) you could, but good to know, and that link is sick as aids. Thanks anon. I'm likely going to be going Atmel for my uC, I'ma bout to dig through some OP links, but any protips on versatile reprap controllers that can be modified to purpose?

So I take it I'm on the money with steppers then. Short of size, power and thermal constraints just use whatever can move the load with a fine a step as possible?

Pic related for those interested, the shell all this shit will be going in. Used to be a fabric printer.

>>1087347
Ramps 1.4 (which runs on top of an arduino 2560) is as versatile as anything if you are looking for reprap controllers.

You install DRV8825 stepper drivers onto the ramps, and you can run big steppers up to 2.2A

Here is a CNC built with 3d printer parts, using a Ramps. So you may be able to use some of the programs or ideas or whatever.

http://www.vicious1.com/

>>1086332
>official prusa
>not a metal frame
Mine is - maybe they changed it?
>corners cut on the rest of the printer
Mine works great, I have no idea what you're talking about.

>>1086840
>>1086842
Neat enclosure - MDF?
Yes, I suspect the silicone pads might cause bowing issues. Why did you add them in the first place?

>>1086887
>>1086897
>endstop
>wired backwards
???
Aren't they just contacts? i.e., pushing the button completes the circuit? How could those be wired backwards?

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>>1087351
Fucking aye man, this seems legit. I'll check it all out tonight.

Never heard of the DRV8825 though. I'm planning on etching my own motherboard for this thing which will have my uC, IO controllers and motor drivers onboard. Pic related is basically my stepper driver at this stage, with some nice big MOSFETs on the DS2003 to drive my motors. If it can do 2.2A as you imply that's pretty impressive.

>>1087362
The MK1 came with dibond frames, im not sure if the MK2s did or not.

Also "cutting corners" wasnt a good word. You pay a large amount of money because it claims to have top notch shit. When in reality the only high end stuff it actually has is the hotend and the electronics.

The cheap stuff that works great in the 200$ printer kits? Same rods and bearings and cheap acme rods etc etc as in the official kit.

>>1087364
The connections for the endstop on RAMPS is - + and Signal, in that order. In normal use you complete the circuit between + and signal. Now if you reversed it, it completes the circuit between - and +. Which is a short circuit.

>>1087397
>connection for RAMPS is +/-/signal
Isnt the RAMbo a RAMPS board? I just have the + and -.

>>1087380
I have a MK1 - my frame is completely aluminum. Maybe the earlier ones did? I have no complaints about my rods or bearings, honestly, but they could have changed some things (as with the frame).

>>1087619
Are you sure? http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Rambo1-2-conn-main.jpg says it has the same pins for the endstops.

Is AC heated bed the way to go? My bed might not be strong enough to hit 110C during the winter so I need something more powerful but I'm scared of wiring a mains circuit

>>1087835

During the winter?

What are you printing outside or something?

>>1087841
No, but it's not as warm in the house.

>>1087846

Whats the degree difference inside from simmer to winter. What's your inside winter temp?

>>1087835
>Is AC heated bed the way to go?
yes it is
>but I'm scared of wiring a mains circuit
don't be; it's actually safer than a DC hotbed
the number one cause of fires in 3d printers are bad connections that can't handle the 10+ amps of a low voltage hotbed
your house's RCD and circuit breaker will also protect you in case of a short (to ground)

>>1086324
I just got one of these with a glass bed pre installed. What's recommended? I'm currently looking to install a Diii cooler, a z-brace and the thumbscrew thing for the bed. These are all pretty cheap and easy mods by their descriptions at least

>>1087850
Like 70 vs mid 80s. My room is hot in the summers and cold in the winters.

>>1087902
I'm worried a wire will break and electrifying the frame or metal bed without me realizing.

Poor college student here >>1087981
$400 is kinda a hard max limit. Is the duplicator i3 v2.1 the best I can do. Reviews are fairly positive for it so Im thinking of waiting a few days to see if there are any black friday deals on it.
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd5EvrnQC5Q
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAsaRk26-Gc

>>1088090
That's why you connect the frame to ground

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So I recently decided to get my old PrintrBot up and running again. Everything still works, but very shittily; I don't think it was THIS bad when I stopped using it.

Why are my prints turning out so shitty? The model that I have (original PrintrBot LC) uses 3mm filament, and that's what my archaic version of Slic3r is calibrated to - despite this, it looks like it's overextruding, even on a multiplier of 0.9 extrusion. The edges are very wavy, but I've tightened all the bolts (as much as I can with a plywood frame). The bottom layer(s) look like garbage, while the top ones are barely acceptable.

What do? Where do I start?

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>>1088163
Pic related is what the object was supposed to look like.

>>1088110
Youll be fine with it
You learning through a steep learning curve is more important.

You can print pretty good shit with even dirt cheap printers

>>1088163
Recalibrate starting from scratch, then using a new version of slic3r or cura.

What kind of electonics is it running?
Flash the newest firmware available and start from there.

If worst comes to worst, you could buy a 20$ ramps 1.4 kit and retrofit it setting the firmware up manually.

Anyone have any experience making their own filament. Anything I should know that the guides dont say.

>>1088189
>what kind of electronics
Honestly, I have no idea. The most I can find without disassembling the thing (which is a royal pain in the ass and not something I want to do for a third time) is that it's a "printrboard"; IIRC it was released ~2012-2013 or so.
>flash the newest firmware
Is there a guide for how to get started with this, do you know? I haven't touched the firmware on either of my printers for fear of blowing them/myself up somehow.

>>1088198
It looks like the printrboard is not a standard reprap electronics board, and uses a modified version of the reprap software.

Look at what revision you have, and see if you can find a tutorial on flashing it, and where you might get the new software.

If you have had print quality issues the whole time, it may be an issue with old outdated firmware

>>1088087
You'll be fine with 70. I print in sub 70 and everything goes fine...

>>1088110

It's a good printer. I picked up a maker select from monoprice. That 350 dollar printer is seriously impressive for the price point.

Get the printer and a couple spools of pla and you'll be set for a littlenwhile.

>>1088163
So I've never used a printer before, but why don't you print the object so the layers line up with the main surface instead of having tiers?

>>1088268
It's faster (on this printer), with my settings) this way. Keep in mind this is an at least 3-5 year old printer; my X and Y axes move faster (and more precisely, hopefully) than my Z axis does so the print gets done faster.

Theoretically. I've never actually done speed tests, but I really should.

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right now cheapest printer is DA VINCI MINI W. from XYZprinting, USD $269 (plus tax and shipping)

>>1088329
Plus proprietary filament which costs >2x what normal filament does, no thanks

>>1088329
>shit build volume
>typical garbage da vinci build quality
>proprietary filament
>forces you to use malware software that phones home and bricks your machine if you flash other firmwares

Kill yourself and your shit printer
You can get RepRap kits for less than that anyways.

>>1086026
What printer are you using to make these glorious hairy frogs?

>>1088353
DA VINCI 3 IN 1 PRO from XYZprinting.
It print scan and engrave your project. Hairy Frog easily print in DA VINCI printer. Very good value for money.

>>1086879
>>1086873
My arduino vreg kept ruining my prints, because the stepper controllers vref depended on it and I kept getting missed steps since they were being under driven (i would set their vrefs and then come back and check and they'd decrease significantly). I ended up removing D1 on ramps and splicing in a separate wall wart 5v on the jumpers, I forget, just one of the 5v tied to vcc I think. I never had shearing missed steps again.

I'm still salty about the peachy printer scandal. I'm thinking of building a chimera but don't know how to go about finding a cheap dlpn projector.

>>1088331
>>1088332
u can always hack nfc this printer.

>>1088379
>peachy printer
That was some bullshit. I had hopes for it.
All the crowd funded things I was interested in have collapsed like this, wtf.

>>1088163
If you are using old filament, change it. It could have absorbed moisture and aged. Check if part blowing fan works. check if you have loose bearings, belts (do you have a version with fishing line?). You could also contact printrbot support, I heard they are very helpful.

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>>1088354
Stop shilling your printers here. Pic is for you.

>>1088353
I use Renkforce rf1000, which is expensive pain in the ass.

>>1088354
>proprietary filament

Can I print things that are safe to use with food. Like are there safe filaments and what type on nozzle do I need so that I dont get poisoned from metal or plastic.

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hey guys my print didnt come out so good . its an ocarina of time for the mkst beautiful girl ever im going to print another.
im printing at 215 c, i dont get whats wrong can you guys post your slicer and speed settings ?

>>1088158
I guess you're right.

Has anyone used the Keenovo heated pads with controller? Looks like they're a finished pad with a separate controller and a silicone insulation around the wires.

Considering I have to get a SSR and mains plug anyway the cost isn't too different, but then I can't control the heated bed from my board.

>>1088530
You can always buy a printer you dont have to "hack"
And at that point you still have to use their malware program, you risk bricking it if you flash repetier or similar good software to it.

>>1088922
What material? You might be underextruding or moving the printhead too fast.

>>1088891
>filaments
Yeah, there are many types, you just have to search for food safe filament and pick whatever you need
>nozzle
I honestly don't think that any kind of nozzle would poison you given that you print hundreds of meters of molten plastic through it - that much use should clean it even if there was anything on the surface.

>>1088891
You need a stainless steel nozzle, brass has lead in it.
There are a few plastics that can be OK, but the inherent nature of 3d printing leaves printed objects porous enough that they become unsafe over time.

Kind of like plastic cutting boards get very unsafe over time, printed shit gets unsafe much quicker

>>1089113
>brass has lead in it
I don't think that the minute amount of lead that leeches, if any, makes any difference if the printed project is "food safe".

The rest I agree with, though.

>>1089113
sand it flat, preferably coat in safe coating and definitely don't worry about the lead considering what most tap water goes through. Just getting a smooth finish on natural PLA would be enough though for most.

Has anyone else built the ikea LACK enclosure? Sort of works in 2 ways for me by giving a good place to store my printer and also enable ABS printing.

>>1083995
Search for the emotion tech new build guide. Its leadscrew ready (better than threaded rods for z axis) and it is ver y detailed. Prusa i3 rework rev 1.5. Im building it

Anyone know if these auber SSRs are legit?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=30

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For someone who doesn't have access to a working 3D printer, what is a good extruder(Can be fine with just a cold end as I have a E3D Lite) to start with? The Greg Wade setup I have just doesn't work well, and I am not sure why. I was thinking of grabbing something off of Ebay (Pic related) as I just want to to start pushing some plastic. While I prefer not to use a bowden because I don't want to drill yet another set of holes on to the printer,

>>1089732
I can't believe that I ended the post there. While I prefer not to use Bowden, I can deal with it if need be.

>>1089732
You need to give us more information

How do you plan on mounting that extruder you listed if you cant print a mount for it?

Also what symptoms are you having with the gregs wade, because they are a pretty good setup?

Also im not sure why you would need to drill holes in your printer for bowden. You dont have to mount your extuder on the fram

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>>1089751
I have pic related mounted to a standard Prusa i3 carriage. I had a friend print it out for me, though I can't reliably bug him for more parts. It's also one reason that bowden may not be a good idea as it can't hold a hot end super firmly without an extruder on top of it.

With the Greg Wade I am having issues with underextrusion, namely after a while it just stops putting stuff out, and past the first layer it is really choppy. The filament isn't grinding based on my inspections. I have tried changing things IE repositioning the hobbed bolt, changing tension, but I am not having much luck. The E3D is set up right I believe as the nozzle is in the right spot and the fan is always running. I am wondering if it is due to the filament that is going in to the extruder coming in from an incorrect angle.

I will look at finding different ways at mounting a bowden. I didn't realize that there were other ways.

I appreciate your reply a ton.

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>>1089755
I currently have my bowden extruder (its a printed Airtripper) on an old computer monitor stand.
I cut a piece of plywood out, mounted it to the stand like pic related and then the extruder onto the wood. Works beautifully.
Ive had it mounted on other stuff, hotglued to the bottom of a cup, mounted on the wall, zip tied to a small milk crate.

I too didnt want to drill holes in my I3 frame. Just putting it out there that its pretty trivial to have it mounted elsewhere. It doesnt twist or turn or move so it doesnt really have to be locked down too hard.

I have no experience with the ebay extruders, but I wouldnt put bowden out of the running yet. You could probably make a groove mount like plate to mount your hotend on your existing mount. mount your existing stepper to a 10$ chinese extruder like the red and black ones they sell.

It honestly doesnt seem that painful or expensive to do if you are over the gregs wade.

Maybe others will chime in with ideas on why your gregs wade is failing to work properly.

Mine failed because my large gear wasnt round so I had extreme backlash on 2/4 of the gear, caused underextrusion

>>1089765
Thanks for the advice anon. I just replaced the stand for my computer earlier this month, so doing the same as you will be easy. I will try using a spare groovemount I have and seeing if it fits.

what do you think about this one?
i'm a beginner in 3dp so i came here to ask, don't mind the language of the webpage, the specs are listed in english.


http://www.ebay.it/itm/CTC-DIY-stampante-Prusa-I3-Pro-B-stampante-3D-MK8-LCD-Spedizione-dalla-Germania-/282131462882?hash=item41b0587ae2:g:wwoAAOSwawpXrBpr

>>1089841
The framework is probably pretty weak on this. Either buy the folgertech kit, or put one together yourself with 2020 alu frame - if you have some basic knowledge about electronics, it's not hard at all to build an i3 clone.
Also, even if they send that printer from Germany, it will not have tax included in the price, you'll be paying another 50 euros for that.

>>1089862
>another 50€

is that for VAT taxes or what?
if it's VAT then i'm fucked because in pastaland VAT is 22%

>>1089867
Yes, it's VAT plus some extra charges for imports. A 190 eur printer will not have VAT included. If you order parts, they will usually not get taxed, since items cheaper than ~20 eur are exempt from taxation.

>>1089755

Does the wade click?

I had similar issues, my extruder stepper wasnt pulling hard enough to turn my filament spool. It would print fine if there was plenty of slack in the filament, but would fail when tension built up.

Cranking up the power on the extruder stepper driver did the trick for me - worth trying before you shell out for a new extruder set up

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>>1077339
>>1077350
>>1077354
>>1077360
>>1077455
>>1077762

I have a prusa i3 hephestos - this thing never put out good prints. I think I might print some parts to upgrade it to a MK2

anyone have a difinitive Bill of Materials for the original i3 Mk1 and Mk2?

>>1090483
The main hardware difference is probably E3D hotend and new heated bed with bed calibration. As far as I know you can't buy the new heated bed.
Why don't you post pictures of your prints and describe problems that you have. Someone might be able to help you, before you start buying new parts and spending money.

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>>1090494
Ah, there's a little more info I didn't mention.

I have to buy new parts anyway - the X-tensioner part snapped (my spare then snapped too) and I can't print anything.

Ordering off 3Dhubs.

Pic related is a pikachu I was printing for a friend.

You can see the wobble, my threaded rods are bent as fuck, so I'm replacing them with 8mm lead screws - again I need to order these parts as my printer is fucked.

After that I intend to get it working well and print myself parts to upgrade or build a MK2 from scratch.

That is quite bad. I can't believe this is just from bent threaded rods.
I don't think there is complete BOM. But this might help you: https://grabcad.com/library/original-prusa-i3-mk2-printer-1
And this: http://www.prusa3d.com/support/
And maybe you should just consider buying this: http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgrades/106-original-prusa-i3-plus-to-mk2-upgrade-kit.html

>>1090515
>That is quite bad. I can't believe this is just from bent threaded rods.

Agreed, but when i get the new parts for the lead screws etc. I'll probably rebuild the entire thing.

I also need to make sure my settings are correct (the printer isn't nearby) - making sure my steppers aren't moving fractions of a turn that they're unable to actually achieve. (if that makes sense)

Any tips?

>And maybe you should just consider buying this: http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgrades/106-original-prusa-i3-plus-to-mk2-upgrade-kit.html

Mine isn't a stock prusa i3 - it's a variant - so I'd have to mod it back to a standard i3, then use the upgrade kit.

>>1090442
I actually pull a good amount of line out as my jury rigged filament spool can't be trusted to rotate well. That is good advice. I will give that a shot, it can't hurt.

>>1090522
>I also need to make sure my settings are correct (the printer isn't nearby) - making sure my steppers aren't moving fractions of a turn that they're unable to actually achieve. (if that makes sense)

The margin of error you are talking about is so minute its not noticeable in a print. Its done by your slicer
With that said, if your axis steps are not properly tuned, it will move too far or not far enough per each step command given to the printer

Here is a calculator, double check all of your step values.

>>1090530
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/

>>1090532
>>1090530
Thanks.

My interest waxes and wanes on this additive manufacture stuff but I'm trying to get the printer into a working state.

I'm actually a structural engineer.

My MD asked me to find a 3d printer for the firm for less than £1k - I ended up realising that the Prusa i3 Mk2 is the only printer with a decent build quality that isn't 2k+ - so we're going to buy that one.

I'll probably use the work printer to upgrade mine in the new year, but I'm pretty desperate for the broken parts.

>>1083305
>>1085852
>>1085875
>>1087902

so i got my AC heater setup with a SSR, but the bed has big fluctuations (reaches target temp and waits for a 20c deg cooldown)

is there a certain gcode setting i have to adjust?
tom sadlad says something about changing the PWM frequency to its lowest

what's the M code for that?


4:34
https://youtu.be/TiEwNf1H_Tc?t=274

>>1090597
is it M301?

i have it set like this atm
>M301 P20 I0.02 D250


do i change the D value lower and to what value?

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Hi guys, just finished assembling my first 3D printer (an Anet A8) today and went for a test print with a fresh spool of PLA.
Since I heard that the stock cooling nozzle was shit I printed this one instead. Just used the standard presets of Cura for PLA at 0.1mm layer height, but instead of 2.85mm plastic I changed that to 1.75mm as my filament.
Also no support material was used.
I don't like how uneven are the layers (and don't ask me why one is missing), how can I improve the quality of my future prints?
Thanks!

>>1090608
or M304 D value (currently set to 0)?

>>1090609
Doesn't look that bad imho. Decrease speed and play with temperature settings.

>>1090597
>>1090608
>>1090613
i also tried pid autotuning, but that didn't seem to work

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Didn't someone 3D print pic related? I can't find it.

>>1090597
I don't have SSR with AC bed yet, but I am thinking about it. As far as I know you are suppose to use Bang bang control instead of PID control. You must change this in firmware. Repetier also has Bang bang control every x second, where you adjust time interval.
I am also looking at Marlin and there are some options suitable for relays, but it still uses PID control and it is in section that is meant for extruder and not heated bed. So, I don't completely understand what you are supposed to do there.

What relay are you using? a cheap Fotek?

I'm going to try my first nylon prints with a low temperature blend (PTFE hot end compatible), specifically FX256. Does it print like ABS (sealed enclosure) or PLA (open enclosure and cooling fan)?

https://twitter.com/josefprusa/status/801823883057893381

>>1090930
>What relay are you using? a cheap Fotek?
Yeah, a Fotek like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOTEK-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-40DA-40A-24V-380V-PID-Temperature-ControllerDurable-/302148211787?hash=item46596fd44b:g:WjcAAOSwiONYOATw

Also a heads up, watch out for counterfeits:
http://www.ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

noob question:
is there a way yo download or backup a copy of a printer's configuration (.h file)?

>>1089869
hello, finally i've bought it.
no VAT what so ever, i hope this chinese seller won't be a cheater.

i'll be back when i start using the actual thing

>>1091057
I was aware of counterfeits, but I wasn't able to find a reputable seller (farnell, digikey,...), so I was assuming that all of them are counterfeits and that original was discontinued/lost in time (I generally do not believe ebays sellers claims that something is original). Even the cheapest SSRs in EU starts at 20€.
That UL link is 2 years old, I am sure Chinese were able to fix their mistakes by now.

>>1091107
>That UL link is 2 years old, I am sure Chinese were able to fix their mistakes by now.
>Chinese were able to fix their mistakes by now.
It is called "chinkshit" for a reason.

>>1091107
what do you think about this one
http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/ED24C3/
there's also a 5A version for about 3€ more
I'm not sure how much oversizing is necessary (heater will draw 2A)

>>1091210
uh just realized I picked the wrong control voltage range (18-32V) here is the correct (3-15V) one
http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/ED24D3R/

>>1090930
Why does it need bang bang control instead of PID? Shouldn't a SSR be able to handle the frequency of PID?

Okay guys, a friend gave me one of the original MakerBot replicators, with the lasercut frame. I've been beating my brains out trying to use it, as every time I try to print something or use the onboard bed level program, the printer homes and then runs all axis out to their maximum and attempts to go further, resulting in ugly noises. What the fuck am I doing wrong or will flashing Sailfish firmware help?

>>1091091
From the printer? No. It's compiled.

>>1091283
I might have made a mistake. It says "for heated bed with relay". They probably meant power relay and not SSR.

>>1090597
Maybe pulses are too short and SSR can't respond that fast? That is my next guess. I never truly understood PID, so I can't help you more.

>>1091212
I am choosing between 500W and 750W heaters. So I would like to have a bit more overhead. I will probably buy cheap Fotek 10A-50A (even if it is counterfeit). As far as I found out, they work, but not for the current they are rated for. And I will put a heatsink on. If it doesn't work I will buy a proper thing.

>>1091314
>I am choosing between 500W and 750W heaters.
>So I would like to have a bit more overhead.
>I will probably buy cheap Fotek 10A-50A
honestly I would put more trust into a 5A properly rated one running at 3.5A
than a chinese knock off one with numbers pulled out of their arse running at only 10%
in the end the best option is probably to just spend the 20€ or so on a genuine high current one

>>1091097
You usually pay the VAT when it enters the country through post, not on purchase; though it depends on the seller.

>>1091314
>>1091316
I bought this exact SSR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222079031424
and I'm running ~200W on it, doesn't get hot at all even after a long time running, so I'd imagine it could handle 500W. I also tried pulsing it at 500msec and it could handle that without issues, again I think you could probably go lower.

>>1086026
>I really don't understand trump's hair. I was looking at pictures and I couldn't figure it out exactly.
I don't have a link to the article but people have pretty much figured it out though obviously without confirmation. It's this one super high end super private hair guy that charges obscene amounts for the absolute confidentiality of their clients and their own original threading system.
They outlined what's known about the specific technique and known examples of it and it seems to explain all the weird behavior of trump's hair.
Basically, it is his real hair but has had major modifications.

>>1091314
Consider auber, same Chinese junk but they have good customer support and you can actually sue them if a faulty ssr blows up your house or something.

>>1091091

Unfortunately not. I asked the same, as I was scared of hosing my machine when I updated the firmware.

But flashing Marlin has never failed once on me. Just write down your settings and reflash with them if you encounter issues.

Its scary the first time, but nothing to worry about in reality.

>>1090930
>Repetier also has Bang bang control every x second, where you adjust time interval.
how do i set that up? i've only used repetier for a few months, but i don't know where it is

>>1091485
Is there any other store that sells them except auberins.com? Shipping for me is $15 for $10 SSR, so it is kind of the same price I can buy "better" brand. Thanks, though.

>>1091518
I was talking about Repetier firmware and I am assuming you are talking about Repetier-Host.

So my brother wants to buy this printer. I've already read a relatively in depth review of the unit, but would like the /diy/ perspective.

http://hackaday.com/2016/06/13/review-monoprice-mp-select-mini-3d-printer/

There's something about it I don't like, but for the life of me, I can't stick my finger on it.

>>1091316
>>1091210
>>1091057
While we are on topic with electricity: What PSU do you use? cheap chink shit or something more reliable? Only brands I know are TDK-Lambda and Meanwell, but 200W PSU costs 70-90€, compared to chinese 20-30€.
I also have meanwell CLG-150-12A (132W) at hand, but I think that it won't be able to run 6 steppers and 2 hotends. (Bed will be on mains voltage with SSR)

>>1091558
>I also have meanwell CLG-150-12A (132W) at hand, but I think that it won't be able to run 6 steppers and 2 hotends. (Bed will be on mains voltage with SSR)
that's more than enough if you don't run your hotbed on it
a stepper will draw ~5W and a hotend ~30W so even if everything would be running simultaneously at max load (spoiler, that will never happen during regular operation)
90W plus some for the electronics would be enough.

Anyone have a Formlabs Form 2? Is it worth the hefty price tag if I want usable parts? If I were to print resin statues would it hold up over time, or would the resin degrade in sunlight or anything like that?

>>1091537

Personally I never trust the cantilevered z-axis

>>1091958

I suspect it's not as solid, but if the rails aren't complete shit, I don't expect significant issues.

I don't think he's going to see amazing results, but I don't think it's going to matter since he wants to use it for prop work; Probably no serious stress.

I did some changes to the pasta, feel free to comment and to add/remove stuff.


/3dpg/ -gigantic faggotry

Old thread xxx

>general info
https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing

>open source community
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
http://forums.reprap.org/
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)
http://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

>how to calibrate
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo

>where do I get files to print?
https://www.yeggi.com/
https://www.youmagine.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/
https://www.myminifactory.com/

>what programs do you make your own files with
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
http://www.openscad.org/
http://www.freecadweb.org/
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.onshape.com/
https://www.tinkercad.com/
http://www.123dapp.com/

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare

>Hotends
e3d and its clones

>SLA&DLP
links
>SLS
links
>post processing (sanding painting etc.)
links

>>1092041
>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

>SLS
don't know of any true /diy/ sls, but the closest you get to it is probably
http://sintratec.com/
but their kit is still 5k€

>>1092048
>SLA&DLP
http://www.buildyourownsla.com/
http://www.nanodlp.com/

Looks good

>SLS
don't know of any true /diy/ sls, but the closest you get to it is probably
http://sintratec.com/
but their kit is still 5k€

"assemble it yourself" I've seen some parts from S1 and if the kit matches the quality of its big brother it is quite good for the price.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8xi1lbc7pw

>>1092041
>what programs do you make your own files with
http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

File: 3dpg.png (1000KB, 720x720px) Image search: [Google]

1000KB, 720x720px

>>1075618
i made a thing

File: 3dpg logo 2.png (6KB, 360x360px) Image search: [Google]

6KB, 360x360px

>>1092093
the text, if you want to add it to future OP pics