I'm going to build a metal roller and I would like to take suggestions. The basic design is this, I'm considering adding another arm on the other side, but I like the idea of an open top roller. I wanna be able to roll 1"x1/4" flat bar, and 14 gauge sheet metal (on a 4" width). I belive that I can get away with not having another arm for my rolling requeriments, what do you think? I was going to simulate it on SolidWorks, but apparently you can't do it with assemblyes.
you want to roll 1/4inch thick by 1inch wide flat bar? youre going to need a serious fucking piece of equipment to deliver that much force without breaking
you arent that same anon who thought he could make a new 4jaw chuck styled after the kurt vices are you?
>>1065241
I think you could go with open design.
Myself, going open design, I would go full retard with 30mm top roller axle.
>>1065258
No I'm not that dude.
I'm taking the basic design from this comercial one, which takes 1 inch by 1/4 inch flat bar. Mine is more robust, the arm is half inch by 1 1/4, and the piece where it pivotes is more robust also. It's true that in my design I have 4 inch long rollers, but it shouldn't make a difference if I roll the 1/4" flat bar at the back. And with 14 gauge steel I belive I won't have that much deflection.
>>1065258
I got interested, so I researched, the metal is quite small, and doable by hand:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBNjVZDvXy8
>>1065261
Yeah I could do that, but I don't have 30mm drill bits, I think the biggest I have is 20mm, which is a posibility, but I'm lazy and drilling a 20mm vs a 16mm hole it's easier. And having a drilled round bar with a round bar inside, it doesn't make that much of a difference, just at the tips really. On the inside it doesn't have where to flex to.
The thing I'm most worried about is the fact that I wanna be able to roll 1inch by 1/4" with a 2 inch diameter, and that does take a lot of force, because I need the top roller to be small and then the bottom rollers need to be closer togeter, resulting in a lot of force being applied to make a bend.
This is the one I'm taking ideas from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub_SBvZqVV0
Well fuck it, I bought the materials, now let's see what comes out of this. $10 bucks total
>>1065367
The mattress against the wall tells me this is going to be a good project to keep an eye on
>>1065385
Nice detail. I will start tomorrow.
>>1065661
Yeah I know, but rolling 2mm stock I might get away with it. If not, a removable side arm is an option, as you pointed out.
Also, the arm that you see, has a big bushing on the back. The roller is not only rolling on that half inch bar, so less binding.
After a couple of hours of turning, sharpening bits, and cutting stock, I finished the two bottom rollers. I now remember how much I hate to drill large holes on the lathe.
>>1066048
You're plug welding it?
>>1066690
The bottom rollers are free rolling. The top one will be keyed for ease of disassembly and versatility of the design.
I've got sick, so progress is a little bit slow, but I'm getting there.
>>1069537
>>1069541
>>1069543
Ah. went with support on both sides I see.
Nice progress.
>>1070057
Yeah; to release the work, you need remove the top shaft. It's going to be easy to do, so what the hell, I went full support on both sides.
>>1071312
Turning the caps for the arm pivot. I had to make a custom chuck to glue the part with loctite, since it was impossible to grab it in the lathe chuck. When done, just heat the part and it comes off.
>>1072306
Here I'm milling part of the top roller bushings to make room for the body of the machine, and welding them to the arms. I used the shaper since it can run unattended while I was doing other stuff.
>>1072312
To fix the top roller to the axle, I drilled a hole and tapped the axle to receive an M5 allen screw. I figured it should hold up just fine and it's easy to assemble/dissasemble.
>>1072314
Here I welded the whole body, I added some angle iron to the sides so I could clamp the roller to the table when in use. The central pic shows how I used a square in the drill press to drill two 20mm holes I needed.
Those two holes are for the axle you see in the bottom pic. That axle will have two perpendicular threaded holes, one on each end, to receive a bolt that comes from the arms to press the top roller down.
>>1072318
>>1072772
Now only the crank is missing. Almost ready to test it.
>>1072842
I'm loving the progress. Keep posting rollerbro
>>1072864
Well, I more or less finished the machine. I tested it with some scrap I had laying around and it works like a breeze. You can see 2mm sheet, 1/8" flatbar and some 15x15x2mm square tubing I rolled. I'm very pleased with the results. The only thing I might do now is knurl the top roller to help with slippage when I do flatbars, but as it is now, it's completly doable.
>>1073458
Damn nice work. It's great to see someone actually doing something around here.
>>1073458
Wow. Extremely impressive. Very nice job op.
>>1073458
you making barrel hoops or wagon wheels?
>>1073458
Might consider a guide of sorts. Solid rod with a couple of locking sliders on it. Probably tied to the upper arm or just before the lower roller
>>1069537
You re Greek!
>>1073532
Nope, I built it mostly because I've had many requests to build what is called "discos de arado". It's a cooking pot made with discs from a harrow https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_harrow
It's very common here in Argentina, and I get a very good profit making them, something like a 1000% gain. And I need to make hoops to weld around the discs. But yeah, you could make barrel hoops or wagon wheels with this roller.